Page 1 of 3
#1
inspired by Ottar to do so, what do you think?



i really want this design, however am open to change. just tell me what you think would look nice if it were different, and yes, the headstock IS on crooked :\
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#2
Cool man, I'm glad you were inspired by me.

I would think a headstock like this , but not symmetrical. I think it would fit the deeper "swoop" in the top horn.

I like the colour too, and I'm stoked for this man!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#3
Quote by Chessman.exe
inspired by Ottar to do so, what do you think?



i really want this design, however am open to change. just tell me what you think would look nice if it were different, and yes, the headstock IS on crooked :\

pretty cool.

The headstock's kind of plain shaped, but it seems to fit the guitar somehow. I'd probably change it a bit, though. Not sure what i'd do to it. possibly a 3x3 (maybe even 4x2?), but make it to fit the body's lines (I'm not really sure how to describe it's lines :S ....) ...uhhh... radical yet simple? ..I dunno

I quite like it, though
#4
looks very good, cant wait to see it
Just call me Bobby
Member of the official GB&C "Who to Listen to" list
Quote by mikeyElite
you build guitars worthy of sexual favors

Quote by Invader Jim
if this party gets any livelier a funeral is gonna break out.
#5
hey Øttər,
if i wanted to MAKE a really nice guitar neck, along with the truss rod installed and everything, where would i find a tutorial? i have found quite a few nice tutorials, but nothing with the truss rod. also, what with the spacing and perfectness, how would i measure it?
i have a guitar right now, could i get a long strip of paper, run over it with a crayon, and get the imprint?
thanks...
also, any good *cheap* humbuckers?
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#7
sure, i have a Q
you know that really long semicircle on the back of the fender strat?
mine is a dark wood, and it is basically a really long semicircle like i just said, how do they do that?
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#9
yeah that, how do they do that?
i looked at my strat, and couldn't figure it out unless they colored that a dif color.
i could even put a tridelta on the headstock...that would just look cool
...my brother has the celtic tri...delta i think tattooed on his back, i think i'll try that.
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#10
Well, in maple fender necks, the fingerboard and neck are one piece of wood.

They just cut a slab of maple and put the frets in.

So, what about the truss rod? They route the channel from the back. Then they plug the hole with walnut, or another dark wood.

They just cut a strip of dark wood, and sand/plane it to the correct shape, and glue it in.

When you are using a piece of wood for the fingerboard that is separate from the neck itself, you just route the channel, then glue on the fingerboard to cover the channel. Then, you don't need the stripe.

Hope that explains it!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#11
now excuse me for my ignorance, but what exactly does a truss rod do?
isn't it adjustable?
what for?
thx :P
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#12
When you string a up a neck, there is something like 180 lbs. of tension the want to "bow" the neck, or curve it, toward the pull pf the strings.

To counteract that effect, we put in a truss rod. It puts tension the opposite way, to keep the neck fairly straight.

Also, changes in climate can change the way the neck will bend. That is why the truss rod is adjustable.

You loosen or tighten it by small amounts, to make the neck an ideal form.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#13
oh...i get it
so have you ever made a guitar completely from scratch?
...minus the pickups and electronics and whatnot....and what is the slight bend on the fingerboard for?
sorry for the many questions, better to ask them now than to be dissapointed later on, eh?
how to you get the inlays in? i thought they were stickers, guess not...
when putting the electronics in, you know on the strat, where does the 1/4" jack go to? how does one access it? along with the other electronics that might be difficult to reach?
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#14
I have never built one totally from scratch, although I am in the process right now. I'll be getting my body blank thicknessed soon!

For the inlays, if they are just dots, you drill the fingerboard, and cut out the inlays from material sheet, like mother of pearl, or shell, or plastic.

For trapezoidal, square, or other shapes, you use a dremel tool to route the fingerboard, and cut out the shape the same way as mentioned before. (I'm not too sure about the dremel part though...)

If you mean the radius of the fingerboard, you use a curved (radiused) sanding block.

The 1/4 inch jack goes right where you have it on that design. The actual jack is screwed to the plate. The plate sits in a hole, and is screwed into the body. The hole has a channel drilled into the control cavity (under the pickguard) for the wires to run through.

One thing I suggest is that you get some books on building a guitar. They will help a lot!

And don't worry about the questions, they're how we learn.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#15
alright i get it, thanks a lot. also, im open to design ideas...any changes anyway
i want my first design to look good, tho i doubt it will look perfect, no one's does anyhoo
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#16
i know
how much does a guitar like the one im building gonna cost compared to how much im building it for?

ie, a fender goes for $300-500 now, building one costs x monies.
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#17
also, where and how would i build a pick guard? ...also a cover for the electronics on the back?
i dont wanna build one, would a wood one be fine?
with laquer...mmm...laquer
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#18
Quote by Øttər

For the inlays, if they are just dots, you drill the fingerboard, and cut out the inlays from material sheet, like mother of pearl, or shell, or plastic.

For trapezoidal, square, or other shapes, you use a dremel tool to route the fingerboard, and cut out the shape the same way as mentioned before. (I'm not too sure about the dremel part though...)


One thing I suggest is that you get some books on building a guitar. They will help a lot!



Correct. What you do is locate where you want the inlay, use contact cement to glue it in place temporarily, trace the outside of the inlay with a sharp scribe or x-acto knife, use the x-acto knife to get underneath the inlay to remove it once you scribe it, rub the board down with acetone to remove the residue and use some kind of powder to fill the scribed lines (I use flour... it's readily available in my kitchen and cleans up easy).

Once you get the outline filled in with your powdery substance, use a large carbide downcut router bit in a dremel tool with a GOOD router base like the screwmac one (ftw) to rough out the center of the inlay cavity to the depth you think is enough ( i usually radius my board about 90% of the way, rout my cavities until the edges are just slightly below the surface so the center is deep into the wood), then switch to a series of progressively smaller inlay bits until you get to the .03" inlay bit (very fragile and the HSS ones dull out fast)

the key to inlaying is to just make the cavity large enough that the powder disappears from the slot. once the powder is gone you know you've gone far enough (you'll understand once you do it). I actually like to use a dull bit at the very end to burnish the edge of the inlay cavity because it doesn't cut as aggressively as a new/sharp one so you can kinda bang around and clean up the edges with it... but that's just my opinion. You want the inlay to drop into the cavity but not so big that it looks like it's all boogered and hideous. granted, sharp edged inlay will have a bit of a gap because you can't get router bits THAT small and no rotating cutter will ever cut a square corner.

I fill in my inlays with a combination of epoxy and wood dust but you can use superglue as well...

also, superglue is the sh*t for repairing cracked/chipped/broken shell... I know first hand... I dropped one of my sharkfins and had to fix it.

oh, and books didn't do sh*t for me... the most information I learned I got from projectguitar.com, buildyourguitar.com and plain old asking questions. the UG forum is loaded with people that know their sh*t so just ask away
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
Last edited by nuthinbuttrubl8 at Oct 21, 2008,
#20
looks good, but i think a set in neck might look better (and possibly play better) especially if its all the same colour
Pow-Chika-Wah-Wah
Pow-Chika-Chika-Wah-wah
#21
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/profile_mojo_data/6/1/9/5/619513/pics/_c442641_image_0.jpg

there is a picture, the latest picture of my guitar i want.
i want to make a neck and headstock together, so...yeah, it should work out for me

instead of the thick black lines, replace that with http://www.mycelticcrossstitch.com/celtic%20knot%20cross%20stitch.jpg
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
Last edited by Chessman.exe at Oct 21, 2008,
#22
A set neck for a first build might be a bit complicated, but then it again it is up to chessman.I suggest an AANJ (Ibanez style) bolt on. Easy to make, and easy to play.

Quote by Chessman.exe
i know
how much does a guitar like the one im building gonna cost compared to how much im building it for?

ie, a fender goes for $300-500 now, building one costs x monies.


I would say that if you buy smart, around $600 - $700 should cover the average build. I allocate $200-$300 for wood, $150 for pickups, $200 for all your hardware, $40 for the finish, and $10 for the beer.

Quote by Chessman.exe
also, where and how would i build a pick guard? ...also a cover for the electronics on the back?
i dont wanna build one, would a wood one be fine?
with laquer...mmm...laquer


You can find all your plastic pickguard material things here and as for wooden pickguards, it can be done, all you need is a piece of wood to cut it from.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
Last edited by Øttər at Oct 21, 2008,
#24
You can't make a neck out of oak bro . I've been told it isn't a stable wood, and isn't good for necks.

Also, a solid maple body will be really heavy.

Rofl, and just so I don't shit ALL over that post, I think the read with that design will be bitchin!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#25
"A set neck for a first build might be a bit complicated, but then it again it is up to chessman.I suggest an AANJ (Ibanez style) bolt on. Easy to make, and easy to play."

how would i make a headstock, then put it on the neck? i have seen it before, just dont know where to look thanks in advance

"$200-$300 for wood,"
..um..really?
i thought for good maple, it would cost around 25 to 70 bucks at the max, guess i was wrong :S

"$150 for pickups"
not if i konw where to look...im sure i could get some nice humbuckers for $20 each...right?

"$200 for all your hardware"
such as technologies? i doubt that, but i'll trust you on this one :\

"$10 for the beer."
technically, not legal drinking age, and if i was, i would buy more than 10 bux worth, right XD

thanks a lot bro
i think i'll just make a pick guard, since this is custom and what such.
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#26
"You can't make a neck out of oak bro . I've been told it isn't a stable wood, and isn't good for necks."
what should i make it outta?
maple?

what should i make the body out of?...what bout the neck?
i want a dark wood for the fingerboard, and a light wood for the back of the neck where the palm of my hand would be :\
for the body, i would like it to sound decent...if not nice
also, red knobs for tone, tone, and volume.
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#27
Hi,

Looking forward to the build.

""$150 for pickups"
not if i konw where to look...im sure i could get some nice humbuckers for $20 each...right?"

You'll probably find that pickups for $20 each wont sound good and will probably be low quality. I think its best to invest in some decent humbuckers to make your baby sound as good as it'll look!

EDIT

Quote by Chessman.exe
"You can't make a neck out of oak bro . I've been told it isn't a stable wood, and isn't good for necks."
what should i make it outta?
maple? Maple is used extensively for necks, I good choice i think.

what should i make the body out of?...what bout the neck?
i want a dark wood for the fingerboard,
Ebony or Rosewood


for the body, i would like it to sound decent...if not nice
Alder, Ash, Mahogany, Walnut?
.


EDIT 2

Heres two links from Warmoth on woods:

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/options_bodywoods.cfm

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks.cfm?fuseaction=guitar_neckwoods
Last edited by a_man at Oct 21, 2008,
#28
hmm...alright, that sounds good, i think i'll invest :\
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#29
Common body woods are:
Alder
Mahogany
Swamp Ash
Basswood
Maple (You can use it, it is just heavy)
Koa
Bubinga
Walnut
Koa
Aspen/Poplar

Good body woods are:
Any hardwood. Honestly, it doesn't make that much of a tonal difference, in my experience.

Common neck woods are:
Maple
Mahogany
Rosewood
Paduak

Good neck woods are:
Very hard, stable woods. It is best to stick to what it tried and true. If you have questions, just ask.

The price of things
As for the price of wood, it depends where you live. For me, a one piece mahogany body blank, a neck blank, and a fingerboard blank will run me about $300 from a retailer. $200 if I get it from guys on UG, and $150 if I get amazing deals (thanks LP addict).

It all depends on whether or not you have a local lumber yard, and if can get good deals.

If you can get a 1 3/4 x 20 x 16 inch piece of maple for $25, quit your day job and start selling it to people. That is a screaming deal.

Hardware means the bridge, tuners, nut, pickguard, and anything electronic that is not pickups. For a good hardtail bridge, expect to drop around $50, but for a good trem, upwards of $100 is not uncommon. Tuners will run from $30 upwards, pickguards will be about $15, all your electronics will be about $10, nut can be $5, and all your obolts and screws and stuff make up the rest. I may have exaggerated a bit on the hardware.

The headstock is not "attached" to the neck, it is the same piece of wood.

On Fender style necks, the headstock is cut from the same piece of wood. The blank is thick enough.

On Gibson style angled necks, a piece is cut off an end of the blank at an angle, and flipped over.

On some angled necks, the angle is just cut straight out, because the blank is thick enough.

EDIT: Just one more thing, speaking of edits, rather than double or triple posting (Which is a warnable offense, according to the UG rules.. it's not that bad in my opinion though), just use the edit button. That way, you can have one post containing all the information you may want to add. If there is a post in between though, its fine.

And one more thing, rather than using "" quotation marks, you can just quote the persons post, by using the quote button.

You can also wrap quote tags around what you want quoted.

Use [***QUOTE= whatever name you want] and then your text [/QUOTE***]

Only do not put in the *'s.

So I use that to write this:

Quote by Øttər
I'd walk a mile for a vertical smile
.

Now we can see how funny I am, in a nice little box.

Now I'll end this ridiculously long post! I hope I've helped a lot hahah!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
Last edited by Øttər at Oct 21, 2008,
#30
i've got about 130 dollars worth of wood in my DC build... about 60 or 70 into my king v (found a decent supplier)... depends where you get it and what wood you use.

I've got 2 pieces of 4/4 thick curly hard maple... one piece is 6" wide x 12 foot long, the other is 4" wide, 10 foot long... i think i paid like 70 bucks total for it all... i forget...

as far as hardware and electronics... order through me and i can save ya some money (US residents only )
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
#31
The headstock is not "attached" to the neck, it is the same piece of wood


not all headstocks are the same piece of wood, though... scarf joints dont always have the same pieces mated to one another
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
#32
Quote by nuthinbuttrubl8
not all headstocks are the same piece of wood, though... scarf joints don't always have the same pieces mated to one another



True!

Although you do shape the headstock after you glue the scarf joint.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#33
"As for the price of wood, it depends where you live. For me, a one piece mahogany body blank, a neck blank, and a fingerboard blank will run me about $300 from a retailer. $200 if I get it from guys on UG, and $150 if I get amazing deals (thanks LP addict)."
i was just thinkin bout goin to a lumber yard, usin the wood there, but whatever :\
i thought that just gettin a block 'a wood would be just the trick, carvin it down.

"Tuners will run from $30 upwards"
speaking of tuners:
you know how acoustics have built on tuners, do you think it possible to have a build on tuner on my guitar? [see pic in my profile]

"You can also wrap quote tags around what you want quoted. "
blah, that is a lotta work, but i'll try it after this post :\

thanks a lot guys, really appreciate the help so far, thanks
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#34
Lumber yards are excellent, yeah. It is where you should get your stuff.

What do you mean "built on tuners"?

All the tuning machines are attached to the headstock.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#35
Quote by Øttər
Lumber yards are excellent, yeah. It is where you should get your stuff.

i should, but doesn't it have to be dry...like, SUPER dried in order for it to work right?

Quote by Øttər

What do you mean "built on tuners"?

by that i mean...well..take a look at select takemine guitars, you press a button that is on the equilizer, and it tunes your strings...not for you, but you hit the E chord, and it tells you to go up or down or stay where your at...

Quote by Øttər
All the tuning machines are attached to the headstock.

wrong XP
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#37
Quote by Chessman.exe
i should, but doesn't it have to be dry...like, SUPER dried in order for it to work right?


As long as it has been kiln dried, it should be fine, I'm pretty sure.

Quote by Chessman.exe
by that i mean...well..take a look at select takemine guitars, you press a button that is on the equilizer, and it tunes your strings...not for you, but you hit the E chord, and it tells you to go up or down or stay where your at...


I'm sure the equipment is available, but I imagine it will be very expensive.. I don't know where to find it either.


Quote by Chessman.exe
wrong XP

Yeah... all guitar tuners are on the headstock, except those headless ones, like steinberger made.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#38
how do the headless ones get tuned?
also, im gonna make a few major changes to the design, i dont like some aspects, such as the celtic knot, im going to keep the stripes, put the knot on the back of the guitar neck.
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
#39
The headless ones are tuned at the bridge.

I like these idea's, that knot up the back would be cool.

It would be even cooler as an inlay, albeit quite complicated.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#40
i think i'll stick with the headstock :\
i was thinking an ibanez type headstock instead of the warlock headstock
it doesn't seem to go with the rest of the body. i like the black pick guard, but might go with white :\
i need some ideas here people.


EDIT:
okey doke.
i can actually use some measurement help here. i need to know where to start and end the measurement. say i want this to be a 22.5" scale guitar. where would i start the measurements and end them?

A - signifies where i end the measurement, at the very end of the bridge...i hope i got my terminology right there :S
B - signifies where i end the measurement, where the string actually goes into the guitar, i doubt it's this one tho.
C - signifies where i end the measurement, if you look at the six screws that hold in the bridge, it is behind the foremost screw.
D - signifies where i end the measurement, if you look at the six screws that hold in the bridge, it is IN FRONT of the foremost screw.
E - its not on there, but it signifies where i end the measurement, at the very front of the bridge, in front of the six screws.

i really want to get this accurate or it'll all go BOOM. so it starts where it says "i start here, correct?" and ends at either a, b, c, d, or e...if you could help me out here, that would be great, thanks.

EDIT (again):
i changed the actual design so it will have 24 frets, that should be cool, huh?
i think so
but i believe that i would have to take the third humbucker out, what should i do?
have a single coil pick up the bass? then two humbuckers? hmm...
You just LOST the game >: P


After years of extensive research at Yale, it is determined that the game does not, in fact, exist.
Last edited by Chessman.exe at Oct 23, 2008,
Page 1 of 3