#1
Hi people!

I'd like to install an EMG 85 on my guitar, neck position. I already have installed an EMG81 in bridge position, but on the neck position I still have the passive stock pickup, which sounds horrible.

My pickup selector is 5 way position, so that with passive pickups I could switch from parallel to series and stuff. The guitar tech who installed my EMG81 soldered some of tthe selector pins bypassing positions, so that now I have the two lower positions for EMG81, middle position for both pups and the two upper positions are the same they were: parallel and series neck passive pickup.

Now, the question is what pins have I to solder so that I have the two upper positions for neck EMG85 ?

Thanks a million in advance and sorry for my english!
#2
Using this pdf document as a guide:EMG wiring diagram.

All you should have to do is read it carefully, find the diagram that shows your setup (number of vol/tone pots etc) and make sure you follow it.

The 85 will have to be wired in the circuit from the red wire from the battery and the hot wire just replaces the hot wires from the passive (wire the hot from EMG into whatever the hot from the previous pickup was wired into).

Reading another thread on here about this subject it might be a bad idea to leave positions 2 & 4 empty. Either wire them up to duplicate positions 1 & 5 or 3. OR just use a 3 way switch.

The diagrams pretty self explanatory. If you need any more help just ask but...

1. A picture paints a thousand words. So much easier to use pics in these questions.
2. Need to know the wiring layout or better still a diagram to give out specific help.

Hope that helps.

P.S. - Read the bit in the pdf about pot sizes (25k) and grounding wires as its different to passive pickups.

Added: Not sure how 2 active pickups will sound in series? Never tried it! Might be a bad idea?
Last edited by bellerophon at Oct 21, 2008,
#3
Thanks a million for your quick answer!

I agree with you about not leaving empty positions 2 and 4, and thats exactly what I want to know, how to bypass selector pins to have same setting (EMG85) in positions 1 and 2, and EMG81 in positions 4 and 5
#4
Quote by bazuriya
Hi people!

I'd like to install an EMG 85 on my guitar, neck position. I already have installed an EMG81 in bridge position, but on the neck position I still have the passive stock pickup, which sounds horrible.

My pickup selector is 5 way position, so that with passive pickups I could switch from parallel to series and stuff. The guitar tech who installed my EMG81 soldered some of tthe selector pins bypassing positions, so that now I have the two lower positions for EMG81, middle position for both pups and the two upper positions are the same they were: parallel and series neck passive pickup.

Now, the question is what pins have I to solder so that I have the two upper positions for neck EMG85 ?

Thanks a million in advance and sorry for my english!
All 5-position lever switches are not the same!

you need to tell us what make and model guitar,
and if the pickup selector is stock or an upgrade.

to come up with a solution using a fender type 5-way would be totally useless if you had a 4P5T superswitch, or one of the many varieties of schaller Megaswitches, or one of the unique switches Ibanez puts on some of their guitars.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#5
Ok youre right, I didnt even think of that !

My guitar is a Yamaha RGX420s, and the selector is stock.

Thanks mate!
#6
alrighty, then.

the pickup selector you have isn't exactly the same as a superswitch but it functions the same way. 4 poles and 5 throws for each pole. a total of 24 connections.

the switch looks complicated, but it's easy to make this thing do any damned thing you want.


tell me what you want it to do, and we can make that happen.

i'd suggest making the upper position the Neck pickup, the lower position the Bridge,
and ALL 3 positions in between - both pickups.
the reason I suggest that is because it's very easy to push the switch all the way to the end. but getting the switch in the middle requires more thought to get it in the right position. having 3 positions makes this almost fool-proof.

still, it's your choice. any way you prefer will be easy to do.

btw, here's a wiring diagram for your guitar.
of course it doesn't show the modification your tech already did.

the new wiring will be even less complicated. only the center conductor and shield from each EMG, instead of 4 wires plus shield.

the direct switch is still being used, yes?

Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#7
@SYK

Hi, sorry to butt in but I thought I might still catch you online 2 quick questions for you if thats ok? Should the pots on the diagram be 25k pots not 500k & 250k? Is the cap fine @ .022 as the EMG site states a .1? I know its down to preference but thought there might be a reason for it?

Other than that (I know its really 3 or 4 questions but I was hoping you might not notice... ) what would wiring the actives in series do? I know what would happen with passives but I've not had that much hands on with actives (as you can maybe tell from my post above!) would it be unworkable? ie too hot?
Last edited by bellerophon at Oct 21, 2008,
#8
Quote by bellerophon
@SYK

Hi, sorry to butt in but I thought I might still catch you online 2 quick questions for you if thats ok? Should the pots on the diagram be 25k pots not 500k & 250k? Is the cap fine @ .022 as the EMG site states a .1? I know its down to preference but thought there might be a reason for it?

Other than that (I know its really 3 or 4 questions but I was hoping you might not notice... ) what would wiring the actives in series do? I know what would happen with passives but I've not had that much hands on with actives (as you can maybe tell from my post above!) would it be unworkable? ie too hot?
good questions!

1 - leaving the 500k pots in won't hurt anything, but it will be much quieter (noise and hum) with 25k pots. And with an active pickup, a 500k tone control won't have much effect until you get near zero.

2 - not just preference on the .1 uF cap. this cap shunts the highs to ground.
with an active pickup, the impedance is lower. that means it needs a larger cap to have the same high frequency cutoff. a larger cap is necessary or you'll only cut the highest of the highs.

3 - you simply can't put passive pickups in series with each other. first of all, the battery connections force the (-) output of the preamps to be connected together.

even if you used separate batteries, the "ground" connection of the top pickup in the series connection would allow hum and noise to enter in.

this is one of the things i really dislike about actives. you have a ton of choices in your tonal palette if you're willing to do some creative switching with passive pickups. SC, full HB, parallel HB, pickups in series, pickups in parallel, out of phase.

Few choices with actives. Neck, both, Bridge.
you can get a SC sound with an 89, but even that requires a DPDT to accomplish it.

Still, actives do some things that passives don't.
So whatever the individual prefers is the deciding factor.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#9
Thanks for the reply! 1 & 2 pretty much confirmed my thinking but 3... I'm embarrassed to admit I didn't even consider the properties of the circuit (ie (-) to power source) I just immediately approached it from the 'hmmm, not sure, never tried it' angle

Aaaah beer, turning against me when I need it the most...
#10
Wow SomeoneYouKnew youre my man! you really know what youre talking about!

Its great that you mention the direct switch, cause Im thinking about it rigt now.

Im considering to use it with the 9/18 V mod, cause I dont really use it very much the way its wired ("stock way").

What I was thinking is that maybe I can use it to switch from series (9V) to parallel (18), always using both batteries (so that current drain is the same for both pups in both modes).
But I need to know the architecture of the switch even to think if its possible. I thought it had only three pins, but the picture you posted shows it has 9!!!

Does it mean it can switch three different lines at once?
Do you know where can I find a diagram of that particular switch??
----------------------------------------

And about the selector, I totally agree with you. Best way is 1:neck, 2=3=4:both, 5:bridge.
Buuuuuut, is this configuration drawn on the diagram you posted ??
Sorry but I didnt understand very well that diagram

THANKS DUDE!
#11
Quote by bazuriya
Wow SomeoneYouKnew youre my man! you really know what youre talking about!

Its great that you mention the direct switch, cause Im thinking about it rigt now.

Im considering to use it with the 9/18 V mod, cause I dont really use it very much the way its wired ("stock way").

What I was thinking is that maybe I can use it to switch from series (9V) to parallel (18), always using both batteries (so that current drain is the same for both pups in both modes).
But I need to know the architecture of the switch even to think if its possible. I thought it had only three pins, but the picture you posted shows it has 9!!!

Does it mean it can switch three different lines at once?
Do you know where can I find a diagram of that particular switch??
----------------------------------------

And about the selector, I totally agree with you. Best way is 1:neck, 2=3=4:both, 5:bridge.
Buuuuuut, is this configuration drawn on the diagram you posted ??
Sorry but I didnt understand very well that diagram

THANKS DUDE!
1 - the switch could certainly be used for 9v / 18v

2 - the switch is a 3PDT minitoggle. more than you need for the series/parallel for the batteries.

3 - i didn't make or alter this drawing. it's from Yamaha. this is their drawing of a stock RGX-240s.


if you like, i'll edit the drawing to do the pickup selection like we agreed on, without the direct switch.

if i have time, i'll draw the wiring for using the direct switch as the battery switch, but no promises there.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#12
Thank you man!

Ill try to find the architecture of the switch (now that I know its name), so that maybe ill be able to figure out the circuit of the batteries.

But please, if you have time please edit the drawing to see how it looks the selector with the selection we agreed on, without the direct switch.

Thanks you, just thank you!
#13
here ya go.

Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#14
Thank you !!!!!!

You sorted out every single problem I had. Kudos my friend.

As soon as I solder the whole thing out I'll let you know how does it sound.
#15
Wow I´m puzzled right now.

About the wiring of the batteries switch, as the pickups cable is soldered to one corner pin, wouldn´t it be offline in one of the two positions??

I mean, if we call the terminals as the sketch below, what does the switch do?:

HORIZONTAL PLATES:
Postion 1:
-A+B
-D+E
-G+H
Position 2:
-B+C
-E+F
-H+I

OR...

VERTICAL PLATES:
Postion 1:
-A+D
-B+E
-C+F
Position 2:
-D+G
-E+H
-F+I

#17
Quote by bazuriya
Wow I´m puzzled right now.

About the wiring of the batteries switch, as the pickups cable is soldered to one corner pin, wouldn´t it be offline in one of the two positions??

I mean, if we call the terminals as the sketch below, what does the switch do?:

HORIZONTAL PLATES:
Postion 1:
-A+B
-D+E
-G+H
Position 2:
-B+C
-E+F
-H+I


OR...

VERTICAL PLATES:
Postion 1:
-A+D
-B+E
-C+F
Position 2:
-D+G
-E+H
-F+I

. .

(Invalid img)

- the TOP battery RED is always connected to the pickup power line.
- the BOTTOM battery RED is connected to the the pickup power line in POSITION 1 (D-A)
- the TOP battery BLACK is connected to the pickup negative in POSITION 1 (E-B)
- the BOTTOM battery BLACK is always connected to the negative power line.
this is the parallel position --- 9v

IN POSITION 2:
- the BOTTOM battery RED is DISconnected from the the pickup power line. (D-G) G is not connected to anything.
- the TOP battery BLACK is DISconnected from the negative power line,
and connected to the BOTTOM battery RED (E-H)
this is the series position --- 18v.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#19
One more concern about it.

Someone said in the thread "EMG 18 volt mod thread" that he heard that someone installed a switch like this and it created a lou POP when switching from 9/18 V.

Maybe that caused because of the sudden rise of voltage? In that case, could that help to wire a coil in parallel to one of the batteries to damp that steep rise, and killing that pop?
Attachments:
parallel-series.JPG
#21
Or may that POP be created just because when switching, theres a little gap between one position and the other, so that the sequence is 9v - OFF - 18v and viceversa??

In that case we´re lost!
#22
connect the condenser at the ends of the circuit. not just across one battery.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#24
it will do more than nothing. i'd try something around 10 uF

connect it between the two terminals on the left side of your switch.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#25
Thanks dude.

BTW, i found something about it
http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

Would inserting Resistors in series with the circuit change substantially the output power of it (how much current would get throught the resistor)?

Would that change tone?
Last edited by bazuriya at Oct 22, 2008,
#26
here ya go.

use a 3.3k resistor and there will be about 1/2 volt dropped across it.
about 10 uF should provide a noticeable reduction in the pop.
Attachments:
9-18.gif
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#27
Do you think its worth bothering to do all that? Its gonna make the whole circuit less reliable as Im not good in soldering.

What does 9V have that 18 V doesnt? Why not leaving 18V for good? What do you think?
#28
Quote by bazuriya
Do you think its worth bothering to do all that?
you're only adding 2 components with the cap and resistor. and one more node. it isn't really all that much bother over just adding the switch.


Quote by bazuriya
Its gonna make the whole circuit less reliable as Im not good in soldering.
get good at soldering first? some practice on junk before you attack your guitar? or just have your tech do the soldering.


Quote by bazuriya
What does 9V have that 18 V doesnt? Why not leaving 18V for good? What do you think?
more constraint? sounds less "open"? idk. never played a guitar with EMGs that had 18v.

if it was me, i'd probably try playing on a guitar that has the switch, then decide which i liked better - 18 or 9. then just wire my guitar for the one i liked better.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#29
Ok, I´m soldering it with the switch but without the delay circuit. If I like one position much better than the other, i´ll bypass the switch. If I dont, and the pop is very loud Ill insert the delay circuit. I´ll let you know about it.

Thanks!
#30
Hi there!
My guitar sounds great with the 9/18V mod. But Im still trying to give more sound possibilities to my guitar.

Im currently trying to figure out how to install a piezo element in my guitar.

The problem is the wiring. If my circuit was passive, there would be no problem. But as I have active EMGs it is a bit complicated to do it.

I was wondering if I could just wire the piezo element to my pickup selector and use the piezo like a regular pickup. Buut, if I just wired it directly to my pickup selector, would the piezo buzz because of the circuit voltage (9/18)?? Could that be fixed inserting between the piezo and the selector some kind of buffer like this ?

It would be great to blend sound coming from a piezo and EMG85 !