#1
Right, I was gonna make a guitar, bt I saw an old les paul copy that I liked and bought that instead.

Now it serves me right for changing my plans, it sounds great, but the tuners are these old kluson type things and they're knackered. Now I can't afford to buy any new tuners to put on it, so I'm thinking about trying to construct some sort of locking deal for putting on it.

Any body got any simple diagrams for how they work so I could work out how to do it? That or any tips on how to do it if someones done it before?

Ive ground graphite into the bridge and the nut btw
#2
I cant imagine designing and making your own tuners would be any where cheaper than just buying some.


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#3
Quote by Absent Mind
I cant imagine designing and making your own tuners would be any where cheaper than just buying some.


+1 unless you own a machine shop and can plate it yourself or like the raw polished metal look.
#4
Quote by Absent Mind
I cant imagine designing and making your own tuners would be any where cheaper than just buying some.


+2. you won't know how reliable a self-made locking tuner would be unless you have the tools and skills.
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#5
Quote by Absent Mind
I cant imagine designing and making your own tuners would be any where cheaper than just buying some.


+3.

This isn't like ghetto straplocks .
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#6
well how do they work? from what i'ce gathered from checking round the internet all a tuner is, is a little gear that turns when you twist the tunning peg, and since the string is wrapped round it, it twists the string.

so all i'd need to do is find something small and circular, and then cut into it with some sort of small saw. i might just use the uxisting kluson things and attempt to put some sort of locking device on them

so some new questions, when you lock down the nut on a floyd, it send the strings out of tune because of the added tension, which is why a floys is useless without fine tuners. why when you lock a tuner does the same thing not happen?

come on people. maybe if we start thinking a bit more originally we can do it. it doesn't need to look perfect, it just needs to hold the strings well.
#8
Maybe if you drill though the tuner and upwards through the post, the use a tap, a threaded in screw could hold the string in place. But, if you don't have the tools to drill and tap, they probably cost more than locking tuners.
#9
[quote="http://www.warmoth.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14864]The locking mechanism drives a pin up into the string hole, which locks the string in place.
From what I understand, there is a mechanism for locking, and a pin involved.

If you would like to figure out how to do that for less than a set of locking tuners, go ahead.
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#12
Yes, it will cause your strings to go sharp.

You can try to compensate by tuning a little bit flat, but it isn't an exact science, and it will be hard to get right.
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#13
thanks for trying to help . . . i'm just trying to run through as many different ideas as possible. ive just looked at the link and seen that it clamps the string and then you tune it, which does make it more difficult to replicate. i thought it might have been a simple case of tune your string, clamp it down.

hmm . . . maybe some sort of plug for the hole in the tuning peg - the string goes in, tune to pitch, push some sort of plunger in and lock it in nice and tight?
#14
Your gonna need some pretty good machine tools to be able to convert regular tuners into lockers. Not something your gonna be able to do with hacksaws, hand drills, etc.
#15
1 - the "locking" part of a locking tuner does NOT lock the tuner. it locks the string to the tuner.

2 - the reason for locking the strings to the tuner is to eliminate all the string wraps around the peg. when dive-bombing, the tension on those wraps is lessened. sometimes when the trem returns to the normal position, the string doesn't settle into the same position on the peg because of binding on the adjacent wrappings. this results in the tension on the string being slightly different than before the dive. in other words, the tuning shifts.

3 - because a locking tuner grabs and holds the string, it doesn't require numerous wraps, using friction to hold the string. properly used, a locker will only have about 1/4 turn of string wrapped on it.

4 - if your problem is with the strings settling in the wraps or slipping on the pegs, and the tuning shifts over time, learn how to string PROPERLY.

5 - if your tuners are shit. just buy some new tuners. they aren't that bloody expensive.
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#16
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
1 - the "locking" part of a locking tuner does NOT lock the tuner. it locks the string to the tuner.

2 - the reason for locking the strings to the tuner is to eliminate all the string wraps around the peg. when dive-bombing, the tension on those wraps is lessened. sometimes when the trem returns to the normal position, the string doesn't settle into the same position on the peg because of binding on the adjacent wrappings. this results in the tension on the string being slightly different than before the dive. in other words, the tuning shifts.

3 - because a locking tuner grabs and holds the string, it doesn't require numerous wraps, using friction to hold the string. properly used, a locker will only have about 1/4 turn of string wrapped on it.

4 - if your problem is with the strings settling in the wraps or slipping on the pegs, and the tuning shifts over time, learn how to string PROPERLY.

5 - if your tuners are shit. just buy some new tuners. they aren't that bloody expensive.


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