#1
I recently added new strings to my mexican Strat and decided to lower the action. I set this thing up as per the Fender website. I figured my neck radius is around 9.5-12" (how can I measure this anyway?) so an action of 1.6mm (4/64") on 1st and 6th string at the 17th fret is what their website said.

So I set it to around 2.0mm at the 17th fret on all the strings (against their relative height of the fret bar, so the ones in the middle are a bit higher at the bridge). I then adjusted the intonation.

Anyway, I get fret buzz on the D and G and I think the B string as well around the 9-13th fret. It's just plain annoying. I will post a picture of the bridge of my guitar and the neck tommorow.

All I want is to get what is considered "normal low" action. My friend's guitar that I play is even lower action (the PRS SE) and it doesn't have any fret buzz at all.

Here's what else I can say about my mexican Strat:

- 4 springs at the back (out of possible 5), floating bridge
- strings are ernie ball 10-52's (skinny high end, thick low end)
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#2
fret the low E first fret, at the same time,
fret the low E last fret, where the neck and body meet.

with both places held look at the middle frets, 7-9th

if the string lays on the fret wire there you dont have enough relief.
if the string is more than a credit cards thickness up from the wire there, you have too much.

measure and repost.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


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#3
Hi thank you for the reply. I tried what you said, 1st fret and 21st fret, and I even inserted a credit card into that spot between around 7th and 11th fret. The height between the frets and the string was just slightly less than a credit card (the credit card actually pushed the string upwards by a little tiny bit). The strings wasn't touching any of the frets
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#4
Here are some pictures:









my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#5
if you want, you can turn the truss rod nut Counter Clockwise about 1/8-1/4" which is a very small amount.

dont force the turn.

that should add a little more bend in the neck and the extra room should allow you to lower the action a little more at the bridge saddles.

after you adjust the truss rod, leave the guitar to rest for about an hour or two. remeasure, but dont adjust more than 1/4" today.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#6
Quote by jj1565
if you want, you can turn the truss rod nut Counter Clockwise about 1/8-1/4" which is a very small amount.

dont force the turn.

that should add a little more bend in the neck and the extra room should allow you to lower the action a little more at the bridge saddles.

after you adjust the truss rod, leave the guitar to rest for about an hour or two. remeasure, but dont adjust more than 1/4" today.

Thank for sharing your opinion jj1565. I compared the distance at fret 7-12 on my friend's PRS guitar. The action on that guitar is also roughly 2.0mm but it doens't have any fret buzz. If I fret 22nd and 1st fret on low E, the "action" at around 7-12 frets is lower than on my guitar. So I would need a very small truss rod turn to change this?

Also what about having 4 springs at the back? Is that fine? I don't use the tremolo (whammy bar) at all. Most strats I've seen online use either 3 springs or 5.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#7
every guitar is different. some can just get lower action.
some need a little fret work, or neck relief to get the same low action.


as far as your guitar goes. you have a small amount of bend.
some of my guitars can support a pin straight neck and maintain low action without buzz transmitting thru the amp. some need more bend.

in your case a small counter clockwise turn, will create slightly more bend and HOPEFULLY compensate for any high frets causing that buzz.
that alone might eliminate transmitted buzz and maybe allow for a little lower saddle heights.


as for the bridge. dont get caught up on the spring number.
if the bridge is level or balanced then 4 is fine.
if it lifts with trem use and you fall out of tune, then jump up to 5.
Jenneh

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.


Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011
#8
That's understandable that not all guitars are the same. But on my guitar, I literally have to put nearly the highest action possible to eliminate fret buzz which is annoying to say the least and not easy to play for me. I will try what you said.

Also, do you think it would be worth getting a "set up" by a music shop? It's probably like $50, although not perfectly sure how much.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#9
Hey UG-ers, a bit of an update.

I have "experimented" with my Squier Affinity with the truss rod adjustment since that guitar had too high of an action as well.

Here is what I "know" so far (facts):

- on my friend's PRS SE, when I fret the 1st and 22nd fret on 6th string, at the 7th fret there is less distance than the width of a 0.46mm pick

- on my Squier Strat as well as my MIM Strat, when I do the same (except 21st fret), the distance at 7th fret is roughly the size of a 1.14mm pick

- on the PRS, the bridge "saddle" is such that it adjusts for relative action between all strings if the bridge is level (which it currently is)

- also on the PRS, the nut at the headstock fits all the strings very well and is deep

- on my Squier strat, the bridge is fully level with the body there are 3 springs at the back as such | o| o| (where o is a blank spot)

- on my MIM strat, the bridge is not fully level with the body, it is a bit "floating", there are 4 springs like this | | o | | at the backplate

- on the MIM strat, the nut at the headstock does not fit my low E string that well. I'm currently using 10-52 strings (10-13-17-30-42-52 something like that). I think this nut is made more for strings like 10-46 at most. This is an observation on my part. (this is not the case on my Squier Strat)

Knowing all of this, I decided to experiment with my Squier Strat which also has high action in order to eliminate buzz. I loosened the D and G strings quite a bit and moved them off the headstock nut (put them on the A and B positions for the headstock nut respectively) to make room for an Allen wrench to have a turn radius. I put in the allen wrench, and by my approximations did a total of ~3/8 turn (~20% of a full circle turn), this was a clockwise turn (aka to remove "excess relief").

I did this, then I measured the frets again, capo on 1st and finger on 21st and inserted the 0.46mm pick, and now the distance at 7th fret was smaller than that, but was not touching the fret. I put the D and G strings back in position. I loosened all the strings, lowered the action appropriately to what I felt was reasonable, then tuned it, found a bit of buzz on the G string, I raised that one just a tiny bit and got rid of the fret buzz, re-tuned, and also re-adjusted intonation at the bridge (loosen string, adjust intonation, re-tune, so on).

Anyway, now I have lower action than I previously had on my Squier and I couldn't hear any buzz anywhere where I previously would (frets 7 to 12 usually).

I wanted to post this here to share my thoughts regarding this and my experience. This appeared to get better action on my Squier. Now on my MIM Fender, I think I need to figure out how whether the bridge is floating or level affects all this and I probably need to change to lower gauge strings due to the headstock nut, or maybe get a new nut would be even better? I understand that adjusting the truss rod is not "magic trick" to lower the action, I understand that the way the bridge is floating and the saddles and probably the headstock nut too and the quality of the frets themselves affects all of this action and fret buzz and all that, so I won't be adjusting the truss rod on my Fender until I evaluate the situation a little better.

So if any of you could share some information to help me understand the situation with the "floating" bridge and my strings being too high gauge for the nut right now, I would really appreciate that.

Also I found out that the shop here wants $75 for a set up. I'd rather not let someone else handle my guitar so that's why I'd rather do it myself. I understand that there is some things that they could do such as cut the nut or something like or add lubrication to the bridge, I probably wouldn't try something like that because I don't know how.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
Last edited by MustangSVT at Nov 1, 2008,
#10
That really sounds bad. You said that around the thirteenth fret, you get buzz? You know why? because when you fret it, the strings are closer to the neck. (Just think about it, when the strings are on the fret, they go straight from that fret straight to the bridge) All it is is high frets. Level the frets, and you have no buzz. You don't get any buzz with it open, I'd assume. Level the frets after the ones buzzing, and it should be all right. As for the truss rod, on mine, I'm actually able to get closer action with a little backbow, for whatever reason. Start from it being straight and play around with it... Hope this helps some.
#11
Originally posted 10-24-2008..

..i think he might've figured it out by now
I like analogue Solid State amps that make no effort to be "tube-like", and I'm proud of it...

...A little too proud, to be honest.