#1
I am new to the board but have not received any responses on my posts. Hope one more shot might work.

I am finishing a Carvin Bolt Strat.

1. I understand Carvins are very precise in their neck pocket. To avoid paint build up, should I just spray some sealer in that area than then just mask if off for the color/clear coats?

2. I am looking for a Cobalt Blue color. I am more accustomed to using nitro but cannot find a source for the punchier, candy colors. My concern on using acrylic or poly is that if they get dented or scratched a bit, it is much more visible and difficult to repair. Correct?

3. I love the colors of Alsa, but am not a big fan of ther highly plastic look of their clears. Do their clears polish out easily? If so, I could manage the sheen in how I polish it out.


Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
no their not tough to repair man its okay the paint wont really affect the sound too much
#3
Quote by SkipII
I am new to the board but have not received any responses on my posts. Hope one more shot might work.

I am finishing a Carvin Bolt Strat.

1. I understand Carvins are very precise in their neck pocket. To avoid paint build up, should I just spray some sealer in that area than then just mask if off for the color/clear coats?

2. I am looking for a Cobalt Blue color. I am more accustomed to using nitro but cannot find a source for the punchier, candy colors. My concern on using acrylic or poly is that if they get dented or scratched a bit, it is much more visible and difficult to repair. Correct?

3. I love the colors of Alsa, but am not a big fan of ther highly plastic look of their clears. Do their clears polish out easily? If so, I could manage the sheen in how I polish it out.


Thanks in advance for any help.


If you want the best, most vibrant and long lasting paint, then your only choice is House of Kolor.

They do Airbrush sized pots (4oz) of the most popular paints for about $10 and they do 2oz sized pots of their KK Kandy Concentrate, which you can mix with a clear coat (SG100) to get the Kandy effect, then clear over it with one of their Urethane Enamels (UC35).

It's the best paint in the best paint in the world, need I say more? They have done all of the hard work creating the paints, actually it's a complete System. All you have to do, is choose what you want and FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS.

If you remove all of the old finish, then you should use one of their primers, if not, just prepare the old finish and use one of their Sealers.

Regarding the neck pocket etc, just mask it up and change the masking between stages, ie. change the masking after priming/sealing, change after base coat, change after Kandy Coat before clear coating.

If you search on Ebay for House of Kolor, you will find a place that does complete kist of their Airbrush stuff.

You dont have to use an airbrush, it is the same paint that comes in bigger tins.

It is best to apply it with a small spray gun and compressor.
#4
(First, thnak you for responding.)

There are no color samples on their site.
#6
I'm thinking Cobalt Blue, but open to other ideas in the dark blue range.

I'm baffled by their website. What goes with what.
#7
Quote by SkipII
I'm thinking Cobalt Blue, but open to other ideas in the dark blue range.

I'm baffled by their website. What goes with what.


Download these.

http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/HOK_Catalog.pdf

That one, look at the blue column titled Urethane Enamels.

http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/HOK_System.pdf

An example of what can be done and with what.

http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/English/HOK_TechMan.pdf

The Technical Manual.

The system goes.

Primer (awesome stuff)

Sealer (Ko-Seal)

Base coats

Clear Coat


Between base coat and clear coat, you can add a KK Kandy, mixed with SG100 to add a Kandy flip and depth tp your basecoat. Artwork, tape outs etc.
If you intend on doing artwork over a basecoat, should coat with with SG100 which is an "intercoat" clear and serves to protect the paint underneath it.

Once you have looked at the manual, you will get your head around it.

PCB36 "True Blue" is a beautiful colour. It's not a light blue, but it isnt dark. It's Electric blue I guess, you could then go over that with KK Cobalt blue Kandy.

Then clear coat it.
#8
Sanding Cleaner (removes contaminants)

True Blue Pearl Base Coat

Or...
Cobalt Blue Kandy Basecoat

UC35 Clear Coat kit

I cant find any of their Ko Seal on that site, but that would be useful, otherwise use a decent quality primer or sealer and let it set up fully before you start sanding and painting.

The two different blues there are:

The first one, True Blue, is a basecoat and will look great with a KK Kandy over teh top or just clear lacquer.

The second one, is an all in one Kandy Basecoat, that mimics a Kandy finish, so you wouldn't need a separate Kandy to go over the top, just clear coat it.
#9
Regarding your clear coat question (if you don't/can't use nitro): If you're gonna use something other than nitro, go with poly. That stuff is tough as nails. A good thick coat of polyurethane is much harder than nitro, but takes a month or two to fully cure (idr how long nitro takes).
#10
Good info, although a bit overwhelming. It does not look like an easy system.

A couple of Qs:

I have read posts from other saying stay away from acrylic enamel. Your thoughts?

How long until it cures before I can rub out? How does it rub/polish out compared with lacquer?

So far, looks like a great option for the look that I want. I just need to rent a prayer system since i sold my compressor and deVilbiss gun a couple of years ago.

Thanks for your knowledgeable assistance.
#11
...the confusiered I get!

What is the relationships between the base coat and candy coat? I like either the True Blue or Cobalt Blue, but they look very different over what appears to be different base coats.

If I picked one or the other of the color coats, is there another "candy" coat or is that what I get with the base and the clear?
#12
Quote by SkipII
Good info, although a bit overwhelming. It does not look like an easy system.

A couple of Qs:

I have read posts from other saying stay away from acrylic enamel. Your thoughts?

How long until it cures before I can rub out? How does it rub/polish out compared with lacquer?

So far, looks like a great option for the look that I want. I just need to rent a prayer system since i sold my compressor and deVilbiss gun a couple of years ago.

Thanks for your knowledgeable assistance.


It's easy enough when you get used to it. All it is is rules, if you follow the rules, all will be well.

"Easy" doesn't usually mean "good", it means "good enough for now".

In truth, HOK is no more difficult or expensive than anything else, if you follow the Technical manual, which is very extensive, which is why it is intimidating, but all you need to do, is look at what you intend to use.

I have not used Acrylic Enamel, I'm not even sure if it exists. There are Acrylic Urethanes and Urethane and Poly Urethane Enamels. And Acylic Lacquers.
Many Acrylic Lacquers will yellow with age and take a while to cure. HOK do one, which won't yellow.

The clear that I linked to, is perfect. Small quantity kit with activator and reducer (thinners). UC35 is a Poly-Urethane Enamel, which will leave a high gloss even before you cut it, and it dries rock hard in 24 hours, assuming you keep it warm ish (70-75F) and keep some air flowing over it (not lots, desk fan would do it) if you can.

So you can cut and polish it the next day.

I also found the KO Seal, I would go for white, this is what you apply to your prepared guitar.

KO Seal White Quart

I would bang an email or phone call to the other ebay place TCP Global and ask them to get it for you, so you can save on shipping etc and get it all in one go.

The Ko-Seal, like the UC35 Clear coat, is a two part material, meaning it is catalysed and therefore, gives much better results. Just make sure you use good breathing apparatus. You don't need an air fed hood and whatnot, because you aren't spraying huge volumes like you would with cars etc.

So. Get you guitar body and sand it to about P220 grit.

Wipe it over with your panel wipe, put it on with one cloth and wipe it off with another.

Use rubber gloves so your skin doesn't touch the guitar body (it will contaminate the finish) from now on.

Spray a medium coat of KO-Seal and let it "Flash" till it is dull, then decide if you need another coat. If so, spray another coat

Let it dry for an hour.

Then I would spray a "guide coat". A guide coat, is a mist coat of a contrasting colour, which will help you when sanding the finish.

So use a mist coat of any black paint, then block sand it with P300 grit paper.

Really speaking, you should have got as smooth a surface as possible prior to starting, but this bit will help give a top finish.

Any low spots on the sealer will show up with the black speckles.

If you have to fill anything, do it and when ready, give the filled areas an extra two coats of sealer, before spraying the whole guitar again.

Once you have finished with the sealer, you should let it dry for an hour. If you leave it more than two hours, you will need to scuff it, before applying your base coat.

The basecoats I have suggested are all pre-mixed with the right reducer (thinner), to be ready to spray with an airbrush, so will be fine out of a small 0.8-1mm gravity mini jet spray gun.

All the info you need is in the technical manual, it is very comprehensive.

It would be interesting if you add progress pics etc when you do it.
#13
Quote by SkipII
...the confusiered I get!

What is the relationships between the base coat and candy coat? I like either the True Blue or Cobalt Blue, but they look very different over what appears to be different base coats.

If I picked one or the other of the color coats, is there another "candy" coat or is that what I get with the base and the clear?


OK. True Kandy finishes, are expertly applied tinted clear coat, basicaly.

The Cobalt Kandy Basecoat, is a basecoat, that mimics a basecoat and kandy finish, without having to do a separate kandy finish. Easier.

The True Blue, is a Pearl Basecoat, that you can either clear straight over, or you could add a Kandy over the top.

So, really speaking, for ease. Go for the Cobalt Kandy Basecoat and then klear over it.

All their basecoats are called "Shimrin". Some are metallic, some are flat, some are pearl etc. You can apply clear coat or kandy over all of these.

Then they do things like that Cobalt Kandy Basecoat, which gives you a similar finish to the kandy, quicker.

The paint codes give you an idea.

BC Basecoat (metallic DO NOT wet sand)
FBC Basecoat (Fine metallic)
PBC Pearl Base Coat (Like the True Blue)
KBC Kandy Base Coat (like the Cobalt one I mentioned)
SG Shimrin Graphic Colours (normal colours, not metallic, flat, wet sandable)
MBC Metajuls Base Coat. Like a flake finish, but easier, REALLY sparkly.

Then you can wet sand your first lot of clear coat, re clear it with another 2-3 coats, then wet sand that to 2000 grit then use a compound to buff it.

Then take a yard stick, put it on top of the guitar and see how far up the yard stick you can clearly see, in the blinding reflection you will get! 20 inches is good
Last edited by Skeet UK at Oct 26, 2008,
#14
Need time to digest all of this and print out the brochures. They are not at all clear on first or second glance which colors are base, Kandy, etc. but I'll sort through it. your notes certainly helps.

I'll probably keep it simple: Cobalt base with clear.

I see the 2ox and 4oz sizes. how much to do base and clear on a Strat-size guitar?
#15
If you're just doing a standard blue, and you don't have a spray gun, you can use rattle cans.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#16
Quote by SkipII
Need time to digest all of this and print out the brochures. They are not at all clear on first or second glance which colors are base, Kandy, etc. but I'll sort through it. your notes certainly helps.

I'll probably keep it simple: Cobalt base with clear.

I see the 2ox and 4oz sizes. how much to do base and clear on a Strat-size guitar?


http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/products/products.jsp

Two products I recommended are on that page The KC20 Post Sanding Cleaner.

Use this before sealing and after wet sanding.

And the Ko-Seal (KS)

Go to the bar on the left and look at the "Shimrin Bases" and Urethane/Polyurethane.

It gives you the opportunity to download the tech sheet for each specific product, next to its description.

Preparation instructions are given in the beginning of the Tech Manual.

Ottar. He mentioned Kandy's so I think he is after a proper paint job, which is kinda where I know a bit

The 4oz ones on the site are premixed 50/50 with reducer, for Airbrush use.

The ones I have are not premixed and are direct HOK "Airbrush" series, which just their regular paint, in smaller containers, but then you need to by reducer as well.

You should by some reducer for clean up etc.

You will be fine with 4oz, but if your in doubt, just by the Airbrush series of paint and some RU310 reducer, and mix it yourself, but you will need a small spray gun, but you don't need to thin it as much, so you will get more paint.

If in doubt, just by the premixed ones of ebay, but by two and mix them together, so you are certain if a colour match (different batches may differ slightly in colour).

You will like the colours so much, that you will soon find a use for any left overs!

Make sure you clean your spray gun PROPERLY as soon as you have finished using any one paint, especially the KO-Seal and UC35 Clear, or it will set up in your gun and it will be fooked

Oh, and those colour charts on Ebay, they are darker than the finish you will get.

I have some True blue here, I can bung a picture up of the wet paint if you really, really want me to.



Cobalt Blue Kandy. (KBC05)
Last edited by Skeet UK at Oct 26, 2008,
#18
Quote by SkipII
Skeet -- you've been a great help.



You are most welcome.

Dont forget those progress pics!