#1
I'm convinced the routing for the bridge was 1/8th of an inch too close to the neck. How do I know? This is as close as I could get it to perfectly intonated in standard tuning, and the saddle for the low E buzzes because of it's positioning on the bridge.




Is there any way I can move the bridge BACK on the guitar (there is ample room) so that it will intonate properly, and would the better intonation be worth it? I know it will involve much routing and filling in holes for the studs, and it will RUIN the resale value of the guitar. On top of that, it DID have a 1 year warranty, but it was in Japanese and I didn't think to learn a second language to fill it out and send it in before putting a new pot in it (old one crapped out) that needed some drilling done.

Basically, for those of you who like to skip reading the bulk of the post: How much would it cost to get the routing moved back 1/8th of an inch?
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
Last edited by Shinozoku at Oct 26, 2008,
#2
raise the action?

its not going to be the intonation if it buzzes
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#3
His problem is with the intonation.

Yeah, you'll need to fill the stud holes. Just get some dowels and wood glue, plug em up, and once it's all st and dry, re-drill the holes.

As long as you have room to move the bridge back, the whole thing should take a few hours (drying time included) and be really easy.
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#5
Quote by Øttər
His problem is with the intonation.

Yeah, you'll need to fill the stud holes. Just get some dowels and wood glue, plug em up, and once it's all st and dry, re-drill the holes.

As long as you have room to move the bridge back, the whole thing should take a few hours (drying time included) and be really easy.

You are a credit to guitarists and humanity in general

Now, riddle me this: I have NO, I mean NO woodworking experience whatsoever, and the only connections I have are to acoustic guitar builders. the extent of wood working I've done on a guitar is taking a pocketknife to my friend's F-200 so that a Floyd Rose II would fit in it. Is the routing at the back of the trem and redrilling of holes for the studs the ONLY thing I'd have to redo? Except of course, for refinishing the hole? Or would I have to reroute all the way through by the required amount? The locking screws hit the dropoff of the routing, so it's range going UP is very limited (which in a way is a good thing, and in ways is not).

EDIT: Pics Sorry, they're from my phone and quality sux.


Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
Last edited by Shinozoku at Oct 26, 2008,
#6
Why thank you.

Route the back of the front trem pocket a bit, and move the stud holes the way I proposed earlier.

You won't need to do anything to the back I think, 1/8 inch is such a minimal amount, you should be fine.

All I can say for routing is, get a template. It will save you so much hassle. Make a template even...

Stick it on with double sided tape, and you pretty much can't mess up.

Redrilling the holes will be easy, especially if you have a drill press. If not, use a regular drill. Ensure the body is held in place well, and just be careful. Use masking tape as a visual depth stop.

I think that basically covers it...

To refinish it, sand off that one small part, mask off the whole body. (The reason it is only one part is because there is a boundary, like there is a height difference. So you can get away with a spot refinish.) Then apply a sandable lacquer primer, colour, and clear, buff to a shine. Instructions in greater detail can be found in the refinishing thread.

I hope that helps.

EDIT:

Make sense?
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Last edited by Øttər at Oct 26, 2008,
#7
Thank you, sir That's really all I was hoping I'd need to do. and I'll probably have friends help me, as I can barely drive a nail, let alone guide a drill, and I have no access to a drill press The latter would be more accurate for my needs.

Now, time to find somebody who can help me actually do it
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#8
or you could try and chisel it out
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#9


Chisels are old school. And they require a lot more skill to use than a router, in my experience.

I did a very similar thing to my guitar (only on the side of the front pocket) with a chisel, and it was very difficult. It took a long time, and in the end, came out rounded rather than square hahah!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
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#10
i find them easier
jackson dk2 2008
hamer xt sunburst qt
epiphone g400
peavey vk212
morley p wah
behringer pb1000
dige bm
big muff ny
behringer dc 9 comp
member of the Jackson/Charvel Owners Club

£8.50/58fund for a ROCKTRON HUSH SUPER C PEDAL
#11
i almost wonder if it would be more practical to shift the neck.

could the screw holes in the neck be plugged, the neck shifted farther away, and re-drilled?

or would this leave and unsightly gap?
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#12
Ah, yes that too is an option.

The thing is, you would have to refinish the whole back... And there would be a gap, which could be filled with wood.

Then you would have to refinish the whole front...

But it doesn't involve routing.

This is a though one.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
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Otter, you're my new god.
#13
I don't know about the style of guitar, but chances are, if it has more than 21 frets, that the fretboard overhangs anyway.... I like SYK's idea. Unless, of course, it's not a bolt-on.
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#14
Ah yeah, it has fretboard overhang, you'll be fine.

It will still leave you with some unsightly unfinished spots on the back, but my idea does that to the front...

So, it's all up to Shinozoku.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#15
It's a neck-through, dude XD How is it more practical to move the neck? O.o
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#17
Sorry if I sounded like a douche in the last message

I have a friend checking and seeing if he knows anyone who can do this for me for free, or very little money
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#18
before you do it..
make sure that your intonation is not already correct. Make sure that the distance between the nut and the 12th fret is the same distance between the 12th fret and the part of the saddle where the string first touches it. If the intonation is already correct you just need to raise it a bit, if its not right move it to where it should be.

EDIT: Just read your first post, looks like you've already done it
#19
You can get shorter screws for your string locks, which would save you the hassle of routing the ass-end of the cavity. Then you'd only need to rout the "shoulders" of the cavity after plugging the holes.
#20
Quote by Pikka Bird
You can get shorter screws for your string locks, which would save you the hassle of routing the ass-end of the cavity. Then you'd only need to rout the "shoulders" of the cavity after plugging the holes.

I thought about that too, actually. Thanks for the suggestion thought
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores