#1
Since no one replied to my previous thread, I figured may as well make a new one. You can see here my original thread:

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=985012

Long story short, I've adjusted truss rod on my Squier Strat and gotten lower action without fret buzzing and wanted to know if I can do the same on my MIM strat.

Things about my MIM strat:
- floating bridge (not completely level with body at the moment)
- 4 springs at the back
- current low E string (52 gauge) does not fit the nut well
- I have to use really high action (about as high as possibly can go on bridge saddles) to get rid of buzzing in frets 7-14 on strings 2-3-4


Here is my last post from other thread that details everything so far:

Hey UG-ers, a bit of an update.

I have "experimented" with my Squier Affinity with the truss rod adjustment since that guitar had too high of an action as well.

Here is what I "know" so far (facts):

- on my friend's PRS SE, when I fret the 1st and 22nd fret on 6th string, at the 7th fret there is less distance than the width of a 0.46mm pick

- on my Squier Strat as well as my MIM Strat, when I do the same (except 21st fret), the distance at 7th fret is roughly the size of a 1.14mm pick

- on the PRS, the bridge "saddle" is such that it adjusts for relative action between all strings if the bridge is level (which it currently is)

- also on the PRS, the nut at the headstock fits all the strings very well and is deep

- on my Squier strat, the bridge is fully level with the body there are 3 springs at the back as such | o| o| (where o is a blank spot)

- on my MIM strat, the bridge is not fully level with the body, it is a bit "floating", there are 4 springs like this | | o | | at the backplate

- on the MIM strat, the nut at the headstock does not fit my low E string that well. I'm currently using 10-52 strings (10-13-17-30-42-52 something like that). I think this nut is made more for strings like 10-46 at most. This is an observation on my part. (this is not the case on my Squier Strat)

Knowing all of this, I decided to experiment with my Squier Strat which also has high action in order to eliminate buzz. I loosened the D and G strings quite a bit and moved them off the headstock nut (put them on the A and B positions for the headstock nut respectively) to make room for an Allen wrench to have a turn radius. I put in the allen wrench, and by my approximations did a total of ~3/8 turn (~20% of a full circle turn), this was a clockwise turn (aka to remove "excess relief").

I did this, then I measured the frets again, capo on 1st and finger on 21st and inserted the 0.46mm pick, and now the distance at 7th fret was smaller than that, but was not touching the fret. I put the D and G strings back in position. I loosened all the strings, lowered the action appropriately to what I felt was reasonable, then tuned it, found a bit of buzz on the G string, I raised that one just a tiny bit and got rid of the fret buzz, re-tuned, and also re-adjusted intonation at the bridge (loosen string, adjust intonation, re-tune, so on).

Anyway, now I have lower action than I previously had on my Squier and I couldn't hear any buzz anywhere where I previously would (frets 7 to 12 usually).

I wanted to post this here to share my thoughts regarding this and my experience. This appeared to get better action on my Squier. Now on my MIM Fender, I think I need to figure out how whether the bridge is floating or level affects all this and I probably need to change to lower gauge strings due to the headstock nut, or maybe get a new nut would be even better? I understand that adjusting the truss rod is not "magic trick" to lower the action, I understand that the way the bridge is floating and the saddles and probably the headstock nut too and the quality of the frets themselves affects all of this action and fret buzz and all that, so I won't be adjusting the truss rod on my Fender until I evaluate the situation a little better.

So if any of you could share some information to help me understand the situation with the "floating" bridge and my strings being too high gauge for the nut right now, I would really appreciate that.

Also I found out that the shop here wants $75 for a set up. I'd rather not let someone else handle my guitar so that's why I'd rather do it myself. I understand that there is some things that they could do such as cut the nut or something like or add lubrication to the bridge, I probably wouldn't try something like that because I don't know how.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#2
Quote by MustangSVT
Since no one replied to my previous thread, I figured may as well make a new one.
you figured wrong.

don't make new threads duplicating what you already have.

do edit your OP in an existing thread to update it and make the new info easier for a user to find when opening your thread

don't spam the forums by putting the same info in more than one forum.
Meadows
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I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#3
Well since no one wanted to answer, I'm just going to be taking the guitar in for a setup at a local guitar shop. I have a co-worker who recommended me the place and he's had a setup there many times, so it must be good.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer
#4
wouldn't lowering the string saddles have been an easier and safer adjustment for action?
AROUND THE WORLD



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#5
Quote by Yeti60
wouldn't lowering the string saddles have been an easier and safer adjustment for action?

Well that's the first thing I did. I lowerd the bridge saddles and measured all the strings to roughly 2.0mm action with this precision measurer thing (note that the advised set up by Fender for my guitar is roughly 1.60mm).

With this, I got fret buzzing on the G and B strings in several places. In fact I was only able to get rid of fret buzz by raising G and B waaaay up with the action being uncomfortably high. All my frets by the way do appear to be leveled properly, so I wasn't sure what the problem was.

Anyway, I've found a shop in town with this like 50 year old guitar luthier/setup guy, he looks like one of those old school ole' timers that clearly know what they're doing and have been stuck in their "workshop" for like last 20 years or something. I'm taking the guitar to him next week for inspection and he'll tell me what the deal is.
my MG15DFX has a button that simulates the sound of one of the expensive tube marshall amps


Fender Stratocaster HSS
LTD EC-400AT
Traynor YCV-50 Blue
Peavey Envoy 110

Wishlist: Hamer USA Explorer, Gibson Explorer