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#1
So I've been looking around and I've noticed different woods for guitars. One thing I'm curious about is, does anyone have a list of the worst to best wood for a guitar? Or not the best to the greatest? This way if someone were to say "I want to make a guitar out of good wood, but I don't wanna spend too much" we can go through the list and boom! Find it easily, find a price. [if we could add prices to the wood that would help]


ALSO if there is already a post about this, disregard it and tell me about it please, thanks
#2
I don't think there's even an answer... this has to be one of the least quantifiable opinions that a man can have.
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#3
Part of it depends on what you're looking for. Hardwoods like maple will give a sharper, cleaner tone, whereas softwoods like basswood and swamp ash will give a more mellow, fuller tone.
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#4
depends on the application really with what kind of wood would be best..

i mean you can get different qualites of the same wood.. like you can get really kickass basswood which you'll find in higher end guitars, and you can get really.. mediocre basswood thats "good enough"
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#5
There isn't a best. Fender uses Alder and Ash, and Gibson, Mahogany and Maple. That should help you out.
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#6
Well I was thinking we could do something like

Best wood: ~~~~~~~

Ok Wood:

Bad Wood:

Sort of thing.

And after that we could put something like

For Cleaner Tone:

For Mellow Tone:

Kinda get me?
#7
best wood: mahogany, maple, swamp ash, zebrawood.
ok wood: basswood, poplar, korina (i dont like korina)
Bad Wood: Pine, Agathis, anything plywood

i dont know

this is just tmy opinion
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#8
Once again, a thread that fails by you. I think you've set a record.

We can't classify them by price, that changes with location. If you live in Brazil, I'm thinking that mahogany might be easy to come by, considering it grows outside your home....

This thread is the same as asking what the best car is. Some are better than others, and some are good for certain applications, some go fast, some look good, some get you laid, and the good ones do all three.

The thing is, there are a lot of good ones, so there is no "best".

You can make a guitar out of lots of wood, here is a list of woods that Warmoth commonly uses, and they all excel in different fields, be it weight, tones, ease of use etc.

You can classify woods by weight, by colour, by ease of tooling, and a lot of other things.

Tone is all dependent on the ears of the listener, and the individual piece.

Anyone who says that one wood is hands down better than any other in terms of price, strength, appearance, weight, and tone is wrong.

To conclude this wall of text, no we can't make you a list.

Find something you like and use it.
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#9
^----Could you be anymore of a dick. Seriously? I was trying to do something for beginners who just started building and didn't know what sort of wood to use. God damn man.
#10
Stop making useless threads.

I answered your question. There is no "best" wood.

End thread. Sorry dude, use Google next time.

EDIT: As for beginners, they can use the search button or Google, and they will find out which woods to use for guitars.
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#11
Really? Google would give me everything I need to know about woods? Every wood?

Google isn't as helpful as you think.
#12
No, experience will give you everything you need to know.

You can ask our opinions on favourite woods if you want.

For example, mine is sapelle. It smells sort of like honey dill sauce when you work with it.... tasty.

And I actually learned a shitlot of stuff from the internet, pages I found through the use of google.

It is very helpful. Use it.
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#13
i auctlly looked up wood for my guitar on google. i read up on it and made an informed choice for my build, so yes google is auctlly very helpful.
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#14
Y'know what f*** it. You win, failed topic.

Stop posting in my threads and everyone will be happy. I'll avoid you you avoid me, happy?K cool.
#15
shut the **** up man, I'm getting sic of your bullshit Otter. His other thread may not have been the best either, but jesus christ, you act like there's an intelligence standard for every question or thread. You really need to pull your head out of your ass.


Why can't he ask an obvious question? isn't that what a forum is for? discussion and questions? Some may not b as clear or well thought of as the others, but shit man you go around like you ****ing own the place.
#17
Quote by JDizzle787
shut the **** up man, I'm getting sic of your bullshit Otter. His other thread may not have been the best either, but jesus christ, you act like there's an intelligence standard for every question or thread. You really need to pull your head out of your ass.


Why can't he ask an obvious question? isn't that what a forum is for? discussion and questions? Some may not b as clear or well thought of as the others, but shit man you go around like you ****ing own the place.



THANK YOU
#18
as far as quality of wood goes, heres my list from my local lumber yards, starting with best quality wood:

Sapele, mahogany, bubinga, paduak, hard maple, ash, cherry, walnut, soft maple, alder, basswood, poplar. thats as far as body wood... thats not based on tonal properties, its based on ease to work with/quality of wood (cracks, chip-out, hardness, dulling of blades, knots/pinholes).

ive had mahogany that sounds like maple, ive had maple that sounds like mahogany, it depends on the piece of wood, look at the growth rings, if they are tight, it will have a more bright/mid range tone, if they are looseley grown (more than 1/8'' apart), it will have a dull bassier tone, the wider the growth rings, the worse the wood is (as far as strength).

we need a damn "tone wood" encyclopedia thread, i will make one if everyone likes the idea, since i know what i am talking about (atleast i feel that way). i feel like everyday i see a "WHICH IS TEH BETTAR MAHOGINKNEE OR TEH MAYPEL"
Last edited by LP Addict at Nov 2, 2008,
#19
Really though, even if he went to Google, coming to a forum will get him a response coming from people's experience with the material will give him a better understanding of the properties of wood used in guitar building.


No shit Chris should use google, but he's not wrong in coming here either
#20
Quote by LP Addict
as far as quality of wood goes, heres my list from my local lumber yards, starting with best quality wood:

Sapele, mahogany, bubinga, paduak, hard maple, ash, cherry, walnut, soft maple, alder, basswood, poplar. thats as far as body wood... thats not based on tonal properties, its based on ease to work with/quality of wood (cracks, chip-out, hardness, dulling of blades, knots/pinholes).

ive had mahogany that sounds like maple, ive had maple that sounds like mahogany, it depends on the piece of wood, look at the growth rings, if they are tight, it will have a more bright/mid range tone, if they are looseley grown (more than 1/8'' apart), it will have a dull bassier tone, the wider the growth rings, the worse the wood is (as far as strength).

we need a damn "tone wood" encyclopedia thread, i will make one if everyone likes the idea, since i know what i am talking about (atleast i feel that way).


That's what I was trying to do, but Otter had to be a douche and come in like he's king of the castle.

If you could make one I'm sure everyone would be grateful.
#22
yeah that is a good site, but 90% of people that get a wild hair in their ass one day and decide they might want to build a guitar and litter our forum with the nonsense dont know what warmoth is, or even how to click a page on warmoth to find that topic, then again they wont know how to use a search bar either, so my thread would be pointless.
#23
See, we need one of those on this forum for people like me. The people who wonder what sort of wood they should build their guitar with even though they have no idea what sort of wood gives what tone.
#24
The one thing I don't like about warmoth is that they're expensive as HELL

If they were cheaper I'd go straight to them with any question I had.
#25
buy from me, i beat warmoths prices all day, and i only have one-piece bodies, anything with a glue joint will dampen tone in a negative way because of the way vibrations travel through the wood, however, a glue joint of wood on top of wood will effect your tone, not nearly as significantly.
#26
EDIT: at LP addict

^ yes do buy from him, quality shit, i'll be buying more after i get this first build done (hopefully haha)^

also, http://www.jemsite.com/jem/wood.htm
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#28
Rofl sorry for being a dick.

Bad day man.

Yeah, LP Addict should totally make a thread about woods. Good plan!
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#30
Cool man.

Also, I've been told by a lot of people that saga kits really aren't good. Mostly for shoddy quality, and problems that are very complicated to fix, such as neck issues and problems with scale length.

The wood is probably fine, though.
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#31
All you guys baggin on Otter are only exacerbating the problem of flaming, if one of you flames otter for flaming the TS, then every one else decides its ok to do that, or everyone else decides to flame TS etc (I'm not saying Otter is in the right, just dont keep on throwing $hit around)

you gotta remember that a lot of us are regulars who do try and help people when we have the knowledge to do so (and those that give advice even though they dont know anything) and when you see the same threads cropping up time and time again it gets a little frustating that people couldnt have just done their own research and found the answer quicker than making a thread on here (obviously some threads need human input but google can solve a lot of 'where can I get my guitar hardware' problems etc)

ramble asside

we dont need this thread

There are good woods and bad woods, now out of the good woods it depends entirely on the sound you want out of your guitar as to which wood you choose, and warmoths list of tonewoods clearly out lines each of the mainstream woods and gives a description of sound, and so does the job, we can just link to that when people ask.


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#32
...Dammit.

Shoulda looked into it before I grabbed it. It was kind of a "you want that?" "Ya..." "*buy*"

So, I wonder if I'd be able to fix the problems before I put it together. I'm swapping the pick ups [maybe not sure if I'll just swap out the pick ups in my SG instead] out for Seymour Duncan Hot Rodded pick ups.

I've heard the pots suck pretty bad.
#33
Absent Mind, if we were all as level headed as you, I wouldn't be an asshole.

Way to rock the courtesy block! .

And Chris, with Saga kits it really is hit and miss. You might luck out and get one with good stuff.

Generally the electronics and hardware should be replaced in those kits.
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#34
Absent mind did come in as the voice of reason and put us in line xD


I feel bad for over reacting the way I did, you had a point I should've looked it up more in depth before asking everyone about it, but I still had a right to do so. We were both wrong, I think I was a little more.


Hopefully it won't be absolutely horrible and I can put together a decent guitar. If not, oh well I got a guitar for 170 bucks, not a horrible guitar but not an amazing one.

Either way.
#35
In fairness its a whole guitar for a fairly cheap price and it will teach you a bit about putting a guitar together and everything that is involved with the make up of a guitar, its just a shape all those little bits suck I nearly bought a kit guitar years ago when I first started getting into customisation and building, but the fact that its just a bit too simple for me is what killed it, you dont have to solder the electronics or anything, it just wasnt enough for the building bug I needed a bigger hit then I asked around and found out the are pretty sucky lol

the neck is what I have heard worse about.

If you are going to replace stuff, go with the nut (change to a synthetic bone option or graphite composite) get locking tuners and a better bridge. That way you will have a decent guitar that will stay in tune, the electronics can be replaced if you really want it to sound nice.


Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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#36
I've got about 200 spare bucks. At this point I want to switch the finger board with that has trapezoids in it, as for everything else I have no idea about. Locking tuners and a better bridge, Is there any you would suggest?

[The thread totally went away from what I was trying to do but doesn't matter lol]
#37
Switching out the fingerboard is a hell of an ordeal...

For a beginner, it would be easier to get a whole new neck.
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#38
Quote by ChrisL120
I've got about 200 spare bucks. At this point I want to switch the finger board with that has trapezoids in it, as for everything else I have no idea about. Locking tuners and a better bridge, Is there any you would suggest?

Dont forget a better nut, no point getting locking tuners and keeping the plastic nut.

As for the fretboard, yeh dont replace it, you might as well try your hand and replacing the inlays for trapezoids, instead of the fretboard.


Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#39
Well I figured it'd be cheaper to get just the fretboard, but i suppose a new finger board would help more then that.

How much do you think it'd cost (I know i keep asking I have to admit I'm sorry)

As for the tuners I was thinking of going with Grovers. =D

Idk about the bridge though.
#40
I wouldn't really recommend doing trapezoid inlays if it's your first time customizing anything, it would be a lot harder to do with the frets already on the fretboard. you could probably do it with all the right bits and pieces but you need the router and bits, epoxy and the Mother of pearl or whatever you want to use, you could probably get a new neck with those inlays of ebay for about $70.
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