#1
okay,
so i have a few questions, i hope someone can help me

first, i have a giant piece of ASH wood, that i would like to cut into strips about an inch wide, and about the thickness of a solidbody guitar. of course, the wood is still moist, so im going to 'bake' it in the oven to lower the moisture content. How do i do this without curling the wood?

second question.

im going to be alternating woods, ash, mahogany, ash, mahogany. whats the best type of glue to hold strips of ash and mahogany together that is the most structurally sound? i had the post a while ago about the double neck guitar i built, and i used gorilla glue, but im not sure if that glue is going to deaden the sound?

Thank you
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#3
The best way to dry wood is in a kiln, but I imagine if you stacked heavy, non staining objects on the wood, it would not curl.

It will probably crack though. I don't know how wood suppliers do it.

For the second question, I agree with the titebond statement.
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#4
It's gonna take quite some time to dry the wood from a tree that just fell down. you should just buy kiln dried ash. It's really not that expensive, cutting the wood from the tree is a waste of time and money.
#5
Quote by carousel182
It's gonna take quite some time to dry the wood from a tree that just fell down. you should just buy kiln dried ash. It's really not that expensive, cutting the wood from the tree is a waste of time and money.



i got the wood for free. my spanish teacher gave it to me.
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#6
Quote by carousel182
It's gonna take quite some time to dry the wood from a tree that just fell down. you should just buy kiln dried ash. It's really not that expensive, cutting the wood from the tree is a waste of time and money.

not to hate or anything, but i would LOVE to say i grew this guitar in my yard... it would be the most awesome thing ever!
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#7
i'd imagine if you weighted it and took it nice and slow, keeping it away from high temperatures, it would dry out without cracking or warping.
#9
Quote by reed12321
i got the wood for free. my spanish teacher gave it to me.


he's saying that you should just buy the wood since it's been already dried instead of wasting your time on a risky piece of wood you got from your spanish teacher.
#10
ok well what i did, was it still has the bark on either side, so i took the exposed ends and painted it with laquer so it wont crack. cutting it into pieces would help it dry out faster. i was jokingly considering putting a 25 lb weight on the pieces of wood in the oven. i would bake it slowly at like 190 to 200 degrees over night. and amcrambler, thats the idea i sorta had. it would be wicked sweet to make a guitar out of a piece of wood that was found/given to me. it would definately have more meaning
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#11
yeah i know the drying process takes years. it takes apparantly 1 year for every 3 inches of wood to dry completely
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#12
haha, there is no way that the wood will be down to a low enough moisture content after being baked for 8 hours at 190 degrees... I believe it takes them months to dry the wood in a kiln.
#13
Quote by carousel182
haha, there is no way that the wood will be down to a low enough moisture content after being baked for 8 hours at 190 degrees... I believe it takes them months to dry the wood in a kiln.


fender takes fresh wood and bakes them at 200 degrees over night and they come out actually at a lower moisture content than what is needed.
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#14
I don't believe that.. fender probably has lumber that was cut and kiln dried for months, then baked.
#15
You forget how many millions of pounds Fender has put into sourcing the best wood and processes for building guitars, I imagine their kilning process is far more advanced than yours

and I doubt that they cut down a tree and put it in the oven over night, their kilns probably arnt any where near the forest where their wood is cut down.




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#16
i think lacquering might be a mistake.

i'd have to guess rough cutting it to thickness + about 1" might be about right.

then just let it dry naturally for a few years. if it curls or splits, better to have that happen than to build something out of it and have it go south.

idk, talk to someone who really knows wood, though.
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#17
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i think lacquering might be a mistake.

i'd have to guess rough cutting it to thickness + about 1" might be about right.

then just let it dry naturally for a few years. if it curls or splits, better to have that happen than to build something out of it and have it go south.

idk, talk to someone who really knows wood, though.



i talked to the wood teacher at our school, and he did tell me to paint the ends with non waterbased paint so it wouldnt crack or split. i wonder if there is any places near me that vaccuum dries wood... would it be a better idea to rough cut it to the dimensions i want, then take it to say a lumber yard or something, and see if they can vaccuum dry it?
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#18
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
i think lacquering might be a mistake.

i'd have to guess rough cutting it to thickness + about 1" might be about right.

then just let it dry naturally for a few years. if it curls or splits, better to have that happen than to build something out of it and have it go south.

idk, talk to someone who really knows wood, though.

Yeah, send a PM to either LP addict or Ormsby Guitars- they're honestly the most knowledgeable of everyone on this site about wood.
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#19
if you dry it in a normal oven it will crack because it will be very dry heat.....wood needs to be dried slowly with the moisture content in the oven/kiln being slowly reduced to a lower percentage

wood likes equilibrium so the moisture percentage in the oven need to start off as the same moisture content of the wood
#21
Quote by reed12321
i talked to the wood teacher at our school, and he did tell me to paint the ends with non waterbased paint so it wouldnt crack or split. i wonder if there is any places near me that vaccuum dries wood... would it be a better idea to rough cut it to the dimensions i want, then take it to say a lumber yard or something, and see if they can vaccuum dry it?
definitely not to finished dimensions. leave it bigger so you can run it through a planer, etc after it settles in. if it warps slightly, but is stable, you can still have something very usable. if it's at finished dimensions, you're stuck with a warp.


but the thinner it is, the faster the drying process will be.
Meadows
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#22
i think im going to take the advice of one of the first posts on this and just buy some wood allready pre-dried, and let that wood dry out and save it untill its fully dry. it may be my project during the summer between my second and third year of college (im currently a senior in highschool) i looked on ebay and theres some african mahogany real cheap, but im not sure if i trust it. i just want some ash or something that would mix well with mahogany
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#23
well i would dry the wood first then cut it that way it doesnt warp onyou cause it dry duh
#24
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not to hate or anything, but i would LOVE to say i grew this guitar in my yard... it would be the most awesome thing ever!


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#25
Quote by SG Commander
well i would dry the wood first then cut it that way it doesnt warp onyou cause it dry duh



the wood is huge, theres no way i could fit it in my oven in one piece. secondly, i cant use all of the wood, my teacher gave me a slice from the center of the tree so it has nice wood on the outsides. so id be only using about 4 to 5 inches on either side of the center of the wood.
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#26
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