If you're talking flamed figured tops and whatnot you're most likely going to want to be able to variate the feed rate. Your best bet is to use a card scraper for the final finish rather than sanding, if you get experienced enough with it the results are far superior to any sander, if you're planning on doing larger scale production though you'd likely not want to spend time doing that. You'd probably be amazed at the kind of finish a sharp set of planer blades can get you, especially the helical carbide tipped heads. Back in college I was hesitant to sand a lot of stuff because of how cleanly it came out of the helical carbide head planer.
Hmm, I thought something like this would get some more response. At any rate.. I've got everything figured about grounding it, I'm also removing the death cap from the polarity switch and rewiring it so it would switch the outlet on the back of the amp as I have added a fan after my first output transformer got killed by death. I've talked to a tech about it and he says it's really not even necessary at all to ground the amp and the chassis connection is more of a fail-safe than anything in case the ground on the power cable breaks, but I'm still going to do it. I think the word ungrounded just genuinely scares people. I'll post some updates when I get around to doing it on April 8th. I've got an out of town gig the night before so any dickin around will definitely be done after. If I don't respond... well you can assume I've been electrocuted.
EDIT: I entirely forgot to mention, I'm taking the Rocktron Hush apart most likely this Sunday so I guess I'll update the thread then.
Well, it's been around for 45 years without killing anyone, I'll be looking into adding a ground though. I guess it doesn't actually have a death cap, I was thinking about a couple of my other amps that do.
I'll probably call the local amp tech and see what he'd want to do. He's replaced the output transformer before but we both didn't think a ground was necessary. Looking it up it's definitely not as simple as just putting a wire to the chassis. That would likely cause more problems.
No it is a 1972 Ampeg. It does not come with a ground. If both units are ungrounded I don't think they'd interfere, now if the Furman power condition doesn't have actual isolation and is just really a huge powerstrip which I'm suspecting, that could be a cause. It's also strange though cause none of my other 8 or so rack units cause a ground issue. I'll be checking the filter caps in the Hush tomorrow to right out eliminate that as a suspect.
On a sorta unrelated topic, what's a good isolated power conditioner that does not have the LED Volts display?
So I'm having a pretty major issue here, whenever I connect my Rocktron Hush IICX directly to my 1972 Ampeg VT-22 I get shocked when I touch the faceplate of the Ampeg. Is there any logical common reason for this to happen as a result of my Ampeg having no ground? The Hush isn't grounded and neither is anything else but my Furman M-8LX power conditioner. I'm thinking it could also be caused by the Furman M-8LX not having the outlets properly isolated. It did not do this when I had the unit attached to my grounded 1977 Ampeg VT-40 as far as I remember. At any rate I'm takin the Hush apart and seeing what's goin on inside, it's actually the only piece of gear I haven't opened yet.
Whatever was on the faceplate kinda felt more like DC, but my experiences are limited there. I do have the death cap still in my amp, but it's been tested and is fine.
Let me know if anything you read here sparks your memory. ..Kinda like my amp did to my finger.
Oh yeah no kidding eh. The previous owner of the body tried grafting a Warlock neck onto it and the heel was too big. Even if the intonation's off it doesn't really matter cause I'm routing out the Floyd cavity so I can mess around with positioning there. Fortunately BC Rich is pretty basic as far as neck angles go, I don't think I've seen an angled headstock that doesn't have the backwards scarf joint.
Ideally I'm looking to keep this guitar BC Rich branded even if it's me throwin a bunch of shit together and calling it one. I'd even be interested in buying a neck with a totally bunged up fretboard since I have a couple ebony blanks laying around. Otherwise I'd probably make the neck myself before I paid for a Warmoth haha. I guess I'll give myself a good month of looking for a BC Rich neck before I just decide to make it myself.
So I'm getting the body of a BC Rich Ironbird pretty soon here off a friend for 30 bucks. That leaves me with one major component that's necesary... The neck. Does anyone happen to know a good source to get one specifically from Canada? The currency conversion to USD is absolute trash right now so ordering from the states is a last resort kind of thing.
I don't have pictures of the body yet, or even the body but it sounds like I'll be getting it before the end of the month so I guess I'm more in the parts acquisition phase. My plans are to route it for a Floyd Rose, paint it and put some EMG's in it then it'll be good to go. I'm looking at quite a few colour options but I'm likely going for black with red painted bevels since it compliments my band's current design theme.
Anyways, if anyone knows about BC Rich necks in Canada let me know. I'm going to keep this thread regularily updated I guess the way the headstock angle goes doesn't matter but to be honest I'm more of a tuner facing up kind of guy.
Well, I'm honestly not sure how to respond to that. I entirely murked my original post and I honestly accidently pressed something on my keyboard to make it auto-post before I corrected myself. That's actually a really good explanation of line level. The original question should read, "Is an aux in functionally the same as a power amp in?" Which in the case of the Cube 60 it seems to be so according to the schematic. I guess to explain: My friend bought a Mesa Triaxis preamp and had it plugged into the input of his cube, so I started thinking about the aux in and how it probably sounds better bypassing the world renowned Cube preamp. Of course it apparently sounds like shit even through the Aux in so he's just going to have to wait until jam to try it out.
On the last bit of your post though, when you say split the preamp, are you meaning the tape ins/outs? From what I understand the tape out=preamp out and tape in=power amp in. On some of my hi-fi amps it's post-volume and others it's pre. My Yamaha Natural Sound CA610A has the tone defeat, but I can't recall if my model has the volume defeat; I know the later version does. Now that I think about it, I was actually using a Sansui receiver as a phono preamp for a modern 5.1 amp for quite a while until I upgraded to a Technics unit.
That looks remarkably good. I just have to ask though, do you notice any residue or even grease on the strings? I've personally worn scalloped indents in my fretboard so I wonder how something like this would look in a couple years as well.
I actually checked out the schematic of a Roland Cube 60 and it pretty well is just a power amp in. I have no idea why I mixed the terms preamp in and power amp in in my original post. I only looked at the schematic real quick for about a minute but it looked like the "Main in" which is the aux goes directly to the volume pot. At the end of the day, the lesson learned is a Mesa Boogie Triaxis Preamp doesn't really sound good through a Cube 60's power amp and speaker.
Your bass will kill that speaker. A lot of modern speakers have no real issue when used with bass but something with that age and power handling won't take it.
I have actually blown a bass speaker with my guitar before. I bought a 412 cab, for whatever reason it had one 12" bass speaker in it. I blew it so badly, there were visible burn marks on the speaker's spider. Unfortunately as a result of that my impedance was horribly mismatched so the insulation on my output transformer windings melted. Long story short, manufacturers definitely have a specific purpose in mind when they make speakers.
So I'm looking to find a VST Plugin that would have a very similar effect as the Creative X-Fi Crystalizer that came with my sound card, it makes live recordings and poor quality demos sound absolutely amazing. What is a DSP effect like this even called? It seems like it has a compressor and a noise gate but I can't quite seem to emulate the sound in Reaper. Thanks for any suggestions.
**Potentiometers So, I'm not sure if it's because of use, but the potentiometer on my BC Rich ASM Pro is way too loose for my liking. It doesn't move on it's own or anything, except the last set we played I must've turned it down at least ten times. I'm looking for a high quality potentiometer that is both stiff and hard to accidentally move, but can also be quickly turned up and down with the side of my hand. I've considered taking the potentiometer apart and tightening up the contacts inside, but I'm sure that will only do so much.
We played a show last night, amp was a '72 Ampeg VT-22(212 V4 Combo). My cab is a Traynor YSC-412 made in '84, so I'm running 6 12's total. My only pedal was a Blackstar HT-Dual Overdrive, in my rack I have a(From top to bottom) Furman Power Conditioner, Rocktron Hush IICX(Currently not connected), Boss Guitar Driver GL-100 and then the effects loop of that is run into a Yamaha GC2020 Compressor/Limiter. I guess ultimately to finalize my setup I'd want a two channel 31 band EQ. I used to run a 2 Space DOD 31 band but the capacitors are dying in it, and 2 spaces for an EQ nowadays is a bit much.
Hey, So the bassist in my band has a pre-1975 Ampeg SVT amp, nothing is necessarily wrong with it, and everything is fully functional but it seems to kinda lack output, it definitely doesn't feel like it's pushing the full 300 watts. My 120W Ampeg VT-22 guitar amp is a lot louder than the SVT, and I'm not just talking by a hair here either. The obvious culprit here would be the tubes, neither of us have money for new tubes but I do happen to have a lot of the major ones in his amp leftover from various retubings that I've done to my Ampegs. I do realize that ultimately, it's going to come down to us sitting there and trying every tube combination, but what would you say would be a good starting point? Are their any particular tubes that you've found to make more of a difference?
Your best bet is to just buy a new nut base and screw, the locking pyramids should still be okay; don't see much that can go wrong with those. does the screw itself look gnarled up? You might be lucky and it could just be the screw threads that are messed up, rather than the thread on the base.
Kinda sounds really weird how you messed it up, considering the circumstances.
You could put a regular nut on there if you really wanted, you'd never really be able to go back to using it as a real floyd though. I have a guitar with a non-locking nut floyd and holy, let me ever tell you it goes out of tune like mad. There would also be a pretty obvious visual gap above your nut, quite possibly showing old the screw holes, you may also need a string tree as well. Locking nuts tend to hold the strings at a lower angle. But yeah, it's definitely possible.
Your best bet though is to take it to a tech and see what they think.
The title pretty well sums it up. I'm finding with the new site my cursor often gets hung up on the History tab rollout when checking notifications. I know the simplest solution for me is to just go from the bottom but I'm sure a small delay would solve the issue. Very minor issue, but it's worth noting. I am using Firefox and Windows 10.
Alright, well I really don't know what to say about all that. And just so ya know, real Canadian Moose don't go to McDonalds, they go to Tim Hortons, eh.
What would the downsides be of having a solid core patch cable? I've noticed this Evidence_Melody cable claims itself to be superior because of the solid copper core, but I'm pretty sure most companies use stranded because it is flexible. I definitely wouldn't mind investing in a better quality cable. http://btpa.com/Evidence_Melody.html
There's quite a bit of dynamic range difference between a raw percussive audio signal sent from drums and a nice smooth, compressed music signal. But then again at the same time people do listen to bass heavy dubstep and whatnot so I guess there's a counter argument there. I personally used to use my 8" Energy Hi-Fi speakers as "PA Speakers". It worked decent for what it was and the room we were in had 6' ceilings so the sound had no issues getting around. Now the problem arose when one day, without thinking about it we were recording using my same interface, and unintentionally routing the bass signals from the microphone directly to my hi-fi speakers. To this day that speaker is still blown. So I guess, just take caution when using non-pa speakers for pa applications.
psp742 That's the exact reason I want to upgrade. I love my guitar's tone and wouldn't trade it for any other in the world, so I'm doing this purely from a strength standpoint as I have caused grooves in my regular steel saddles.
could be that the parts didn't sell well and they can't just order saddles at the wholesale price they get for all parts. sounds like you just need higher grade steel to me. what Floyd do you have?
It's an OEM Original Floyd Rose off a BC Rich ASM Pro, black matte finish.
I guess I should mention, I started using D'Addario Friction Remover before sets a couple shows back, and it seems like it's helping for sure, especially with the string breaking. I've never actually had it happen live likely because I put a fresh set of strings on almost every time.
dannyalcatraz, I've noticed that as well they're in stock, but only the full set. Good call on contacting them though to see about individual saddles, I'll probably do that.
dspellman, Hmm, not necessarily "Heavier" in a tone way but more durable, if anything I picture them brightening the tone. I'll see about uploading some pictures off my phone of my string indentations into the saddle in a bit, my camera lens is cracked so it might be iffy. The problem has only happened on the lower strings, and I don't necessarily have the money for a full set or the will to save up that much.
Does anyone know the deal with the saddles on the Floyd Rose website is? A lot of the other titanium components are in stock but just all the saddles are out of stock, and it's been like this for quite a long time.
Oh okay yeah for sure, it's all good. I was figuring you were saying I hadn't put the effort in.
So are BTPA cables all made in USA? I ask because of the free trade between Canada and America, so I'd rather buy something blatantly labeled with Made in USA so I don't get slapped with any border fees. I have used PO boxes, but for something under 100 bucks it's not worth the drive down to the states.
Arby911 Whoa, take er easy that's the first thing I did. How's the Evidence_Melody? Seems like it might be good for my guitar>pedals connection at the very least, I'm planning on doing a 50 footer here.
Oh crap, totally chooched er last night and forgot to hit reply before shutting down the computer. I definitely like the look of the Blue/Black tweed they have there, basic to say the least, I'm more into more complex tweed patterns like the houndstooth pattern(If you don't know the pattern, think of Ricky's shirt from Trailer Park Boys). It should do the job, but I will wait a while to see what other responses I get.
Here's another question to throw out there, anyone know a place in Canada to get Neutrik and Ream connectors cheap? I can get them locally for something like 3.50-4 bucks for the 1/4 speaker connector, which I prefer to use for my regular patch cables.
Hello, Where is a good source to get tweed cable in bulk? I'm not looking for anything vintage, I just love the appearance and if I'm ordering cable; might as well make er nice. Quality counts for sure, I've been mostly using the same cables since around 2006 and would like to get a similar lifetime out of my new ones. I guess ideally I'd want a black/blue tweed or blue/silver to match my Ampeg amps. Thanks for some links. I guess if you happen to know any Canadian sites, that's even better.
Hey, I'm looking for some original titanium saddles for a floyd rose, in singles. Ideally, I'd do a full set but realistically I only need the E, A and D saddles to be heavier as I've not managed to inset grooves into the higher string saddles. Now here's where I should note I am looking specifically for an original saddle, or at least original in appearance. I do know about the FU-Tone saddles and in my opinion they would just look goofy alongside the three original saddles, and I'm not fond of the circular string holder so that puts it right off the options list. I've been checking the Floyd Rose website almost monthly now for at least a year and half, and the Titanium saddles have been out of stock every time. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm in Canada, so as far as international orders goes it doesn't really matter what location. Thanks
Sick! A buddy got me into this band quite a few years ago. Total fucking blasphemy worship.
Honestly, most decent amps can get you this tone just put a fizzy sounding distortion in front of it and turn the treble on the pedal down while keeping the amps treble up, or the other way around. His live tone on the first video isn't the same as the albums.
KaiM, I don't think you know what you're talking about when it comes to bestial black metal and quality... Just look at the ross bay cult godfathers, Blasphemy or even the Brazilian masters, Sarcofago.