Content
Thread
Forum
Date
as a fellow Axe Man, I approve of this project
Quote by fly135
This diagram will show you how to do it.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_1v_2t_3w_1pp

Just make sure that you use the color codes for the Dimarzio.

I found the same one on dimarzio's page, you'll notice how it has TWO tones, but I have ONE
Just got my DiMarzio pickups and I can't seem to find a wiring diagram for this setup:

2 humbuckers, 1 volume, 1 push-pull tone that splits both pickups, 3 way toggle switch

http://www.dimarzio.com/support/wiring-diagrams#1-4-3-5
Howdy. I'm selling my ADA Microcab, since I don't have any use for it. I'm using my MP-1 with an amp and at home, I'm using Amplitube only. So this is unit is up for grabs.

I bought it in 2008 or 2007, from the USA. I randomly stumbled upon a craigslist ad and the owner was willing to ship it here in Europe, Estonia. This means that the unit comes with an 110V 60Hz American adapter, but you can always use any other adapter, as long as it matches the required DC output, which by reading the markers should be 16V and 3A. Also, there's always the option to use 110V 60Hz > 220V 50Hz transformer, like I'm doing now. I won't ship the transformer, since it weighs quite a bit and will probably only make the shipping pricier.

Anyway, the bottom line is, I've got an ADA Microcab unit, with minimal rack wear, otherwise in excellent condition, that comes with the original manual (if I can find it ) and the US voltage adapter. I'm located in Estonia and willing to ship anywhere in the world. Make me an offer!

Pic:
http://profile.ultimate-guitar.com/The+Axeman/pictures/gear/224869/275815
you guys are right about the screw head, Schaller's is 6mm and the neck's screw head is 10mm (yeah, well look at that, no Imperial units)

what do you mean by drilling out the button, Pikka Bird?
I have an explorer with a bolt on neck, and I was wondering if it were possbile to mount a schaller strap locking stubs on one of the neck bolts? or should I drill a hole somewhere on that bolt on plate?
ummm, I really don't understand the problem
For a 100 bucks you can go and rent some studio time. You can't get "a good mic" and a PC interface for a hundred.
Quote by lockwolf
There is a difference between a Hardware Compressor and a Software compressor. HUGE DIFFERENCE!

not saying there isn't a difference.

I'd look at these
http://www.waves.com/content.aspx?id=91#Compressors
I'd get some kind of a freeware VST
he's not getting a mixer
Why would anyone need RSE? It can't sound the way you want it to sound anyway so why bother? Can't the developers realize they are wasting time on things that aren't important.
RSE is just a gimmick and nothing more. What possible gain can you hope to accomplish?
Quote by Chaotic976
You guys realize you can goto View -> Instrument Panel to write for Drums and a non-guitar instrument, right? The drum panel pretty much lays out all the beats you can have and any other instrument will let you write with a full piano.

yeah, real comfortable
That depends on your interface. Read the manual before buying, you can get it from the site of the manufacturer.

Also, keep in mind that since the audio interface is sending big chunks of data thru the FW, it will slow things down if you have a HDD hooked up in the interface or even straight to another FW port on your computer. So if possible, take the eSata route, it's not as fast as SATAII but it sure beats everything else
You can actually hook up your external drives via firewire through the audio interface, it has two firewire connections, 1 is for your computer, 2 is for a, say, hdd
Quote by lockwolf
Its okay, I think Cubase is crap :p I never really liked how it looked and how much I had to go through to get something the way I wanted it.

Also, the version that comes with most M-Audio products right now is the M-Powered Essentials which is a version with some of the extra plugins and goodies taken out.

oops, yea, you're right. my bad. I'm gonna pop that mofo right in and see what's it all about
M-Audio bundles every interface with ProTools M-Powered. I have M-Audio's Firewire Solo but I've never tried ProTools. Maybe I should, although I can't be more pleased with Cubase

I'm not a big fan of ProTools, tho
lockwolf, I'm not too sure about ProTools requiring an specific interface, some versions do, but not all.

Also, burritosaregood, never use an external drive unless it's hooked up via SATA. Otherwise, you will be stuck in hell that is slow loading.

But if you can, get two separate HDDs, one for software and one for recording data. Although, I would imagine it's hard to do on a laptop.

Btw, your laptop's specs are great, don't worry
Can't say nothing about macs expect for that I don't like them at all. And they have become pointless anyways, ever since nowadays they use Intel's Core series cpu's which don't make them much different from PC's. So why pay more when you can have the same thing for a better price.

Also, consider this http://www.thebestpageintheuniverse.net/c.cgi?u=macs_cant

Quote by sambot12
I don't know about their track record, but my band has a Behringer mixer/audio interface and it works fine for what we use it for (mixer for recording drums and vocals and audio interface for guitar). I'm sure there's better stuff out there, but I'm a 15 year old with not very much money so it made sense for us.

What do you mean by low quality? The EQ works fine so I don't see what the problems are.

The best comparison would be if you tried something better for a longer period.

I guess the overall impression is the feel of the controls, sound quality, quality of EQ and other built in effects, if any and build quality.
Also, remember that you almost always get bundled DAWs with audio interfaces, just look up what they come with and you won't need to spend the extra $$$.

I wouldn't get a control surface if I were you, it's not that necessary when you're just starting out, but if you are, there's nothing wrong with getting a Behringer. Like I said, just don't get their monitors nor interfaces. The control surface can't alter your tone (unless it's broken and adds electrical noise ).
Quote by burritosaregood
I see what you are saying. Are there ways of recording mics direct into the line inputs? By using a cable like this: http://www.zzounds.com/item--CBIBLUC ?

you could do this but mics like Shure SM57 can't work without a preamp, at all.
Presonus DIGIMAX FS preamp

from what I understand, you can also use this particular preamp to extend RME's inputs/outputs. You can connect this to RME via digital input/output on the back (ADAT)

http://www.thomann.de/gb/presonus_digimax_fs.htm

Not saying you'd have to get it, just that you can use stuff that have ADAT to extend RME. You could use other (not all) audio interfaces that too have ADAT to extend the amount of usable analog inputs/outputs. By connecting different units via a digital link (ADAT in this case, can also be SPDIF), you are extending the inputs and outputs of your recording system. I suggest using products that aren't audio interfaces by themselves, since you'd be paying for something you already have, rather extensions like this Presonus. You can't use it alone but you can use it with a audio interface that has a ADAT input/output. Hope this makes sense. Ask if it doesn't
The SM Pro preamp works just like any other preamps would, you can't extend RME's inputs with preamps, but you can extend RME with another RME 400 or 800 unit. Like the product description says, you have a 36 channel input/output limit

You plug the preamp inputs into the line inputs of RME and that's it. You'd have two unconnected preamp channels on the SM preamp.
Quote by burritosaregood

1. Do I need to purchase a soundcard still after the audio interface?

burritosaregood, first of all

audio interface = sound card. sound card is not a proper term for it so I used "audio interface".
2. What software should I use? I seem to see Protools all the time as I look at gear. I believe all the interfaces you guys showed me are compatible with it.

If you want something legit, I'd suggest using bundled software, because buying software is very expensive

3. With the RME FireFace 400 that was shown...how exactly could I record around 8 channels at the same time? There seems to be plenty of line ins but only two mic ins.

the RME 400 has 2 input channels that have preamps and 6 line inputs (+ you can connect another unit via SPDIF or ADAT that houses more inputs, it supports up to 36 channels). But that's why I was suggesting getting the SM PRO AUDIO 8 channel preamp which you'd have to plug in to the line inputs of RME

M-Audio Profire 2626 is certainly a good piece of rig, but RME is something (like I said before) you probably wouldn't never had to sell off (unless for RME 800)
josh_salty, you got some facts wrong.

1. Audio interface
What I'd get is a good audio interface, maybe something along the lines of these:
RME Fireface 400 http://www.thomann.de/gb/rme_fireface_400.htm
This bad boy will eat up your funds but then again, you probably won't need to change it ever again for anything else. Unless maybe for RME Fireface 800. This thing has also two preamps and other goodies.

If not RME, which I'd or any other studio tech would higly recommend, get some other interface that has at least 8 analog (and this is important, make sure they are analog!) inputs.

Also, there's software bundled with this interface. It will be more than enough for simple recording and editing/mixing.

2. Monitors
Get studio headphones or nearfield active monitors. I'd suggest the industry standard

Yamaha HS80M http://www.thomann.de/gb/yamaha_hs80m.htm or its little brother HS50M http://www.thomann.de/gb/yamaha_hs50m.htm
Just keep in mind that when turning up the volume, you'll get more distortion so if you can, always get a louder monitor. Doesn't mean you're gonna be blasting the thing all the way up to 11, just the more you turn up the volume, the more distortion you get. So having these two Yamaha's at the same volume, you'll get more distortion with the smaller one.

3. Preamp
a lot of the interfaces already have preamps, but remember, if you're recording drums, you'll need at least 8 or so mics, therefore 8 preamps as well. Try using this:
SM PRO AUDIO PR 8 E http://www.thomann.de/gb/sm_pro_audio_pr_8_e.htm


---

Some word of advice....
Mics... Well, since I'm already over your budget, I'd suggest that you don't compromise on your sound card and monitors because you can always borrow mics from a friend or a rental. If you get a cheapass interface and a pair of crappy monitors along them, you're not gonna get any good results no matter how badass your mics are. Gather some more funds, get a shure sm57 and a sm58 (both are industry standards, one for recording instruments and the other for vocals), BUT DON'T COMPROMISE ON THE BASIC GEAR.

Also, keep in mind that if you do get Shure sm57, you'll need to use a preamp, without it, it's barely heard.

Another thing, when buying Behringer and other cheap brands, never buy their audio interfaces nor monitors. They make great effects and other gadgets (compressors, gates, etc) but not good interfaces or monitors.


I wish I had bigger and more pictures of this rack, it's Hetfield's
I have a lot of wood laying around + some foam, so I figured since I'm short on cash, I'd build one
I can't seem to find any good pictures so I could base my own version on anything out there
I want to build a rack to hold my present and future guitars and was wondering if anyone can direct me to any good pictures or blueprints. Foremost, I need it to hold my strat and Explorer.

So go on, any ideas would be welcome!
don't forget to play it near an open window while it's raining outside. also, get someone to knock on the door
seeing as you have Wolfgang Van Halen there, why not get Mike Anthony?
I wouldn't call 4-5U rack a huge rack. What kind of midi switcher would you suggest then?

Also, to be clear, I have Behringer's Intelligate XR2000, so I don't need another noisegate that doesn't have built in MIDI
that's what I thought, there just aren't any except for Rocktron
Hey, I'm looking for a rack mountable noisegate that can be controlled via MIDI

I know Rocktron Hush Ultra is one of those but the damn thing doesn't have a power transformator built in, so it needs an adapter for power.

Any more out there?
dude, get the FR set up correctly or block it, you don't need a new guitar
when they came out with GP5 I thought that it can't get any worse and of course they set out to prove me wrong and released GP6. Huge memory leaks? Bring 'em! Worse GUI? Yes mother****er! Shitload of effects and stuff that don't sound real? Oh shit, I just came.

This is borderline retarded, the guys who made this have obviously forgotten what they set out to do.

What do you use GP for? I'd say to write down your songs and perhaps play along with some of them? What do we get in gp6? Assload of configuration to the track you add, (already mentioned in this thread) inability to use tab's for anything but guitar/bass track, really confusing and bad "realistic sound engine".

Maybe it was the fact that the demo pissed me off so fast and was so useless to me that I didn't find where I could just swicth on good ole' general MIDI sound generator and not deal with the vast array of those pointless pedals, amps etc. Jeez, I *ALREADY HAVE* a realistic sound engine, his name is Isaac Newton, Nikolai Tesla and Albert Einstein - physics! I can plug in my guitar and hear how this really sounds.
The RSE sounds so off and confusing, rendering it utterly useless. Yeah and the faster the track is, the worse it gets!
Why do I need to take assful of time to setup how my score sounds?

It makes me sad that really soon the only GP tabs I'm gonna get are gtx's and I'd HAVE to use GP6 to open them. Thanks Arobas!
can't really try it when ordering from the internets

I posted it under modifications to discuss further the placement of the strap studs
I'm thinking of buying a Kramer Imperial S404 and wanted to know whether it has balancing issues. The strap holders are positioned in a classical manner, no complaints with the one in the back but the one in front is what troubles my mind. I know that strap holders on Explorer bodies are placed on the neck-body connection, and this would be all good if not for this Kramer having a bolt on neck. I haven't seen any pictures of it from behind but judging by the angled front picture, I would say it has probably a metal plate on the body-neck connection.

I did have an Epiphone Explorer, it was stolen about a year ago, so I can't really test this issue myself.

Any ideas?

Edit: thought I'd might add a link: http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/electric_guitars/kramer/imperial_s-404s/index.html