True, but you'll notice far less difference through a modeling amp and a valve amp. Firstly, valve amps are naturally less transparent, but also they design modeling amps so they're less transparent because people generally use them with cheaper guitars and they don't want the tone to suffer.
It's basically just going to sound more raw and uncontrolled than a humbucker would through fuzz, but with those recognizable P90 tonal qualities. Add a Les Paul to that mix, and you've got a slightly darker, chunkier sound. Probably would sound pretty good for the stuff you were talking about playing.
This is crazy good. The part at the marker "III" could use some spicing up, I think. Maybe even just adding a diminished-type harmony on the second guitar might do it. It's just that compared to the rest of the song, that part feels a bit bland.
Also, the section marked "Fill" can actually be taken completely out if you want to. The sections that surround it fit together pretty well (or would fit with some minor tweaking), and I feel like "Fill" was a bit too confusing.
This is definitely one of the best works I've seen on these forums in quite some time.
EDIT: In the section labeled "III", I moved all the accented notes on the second guitar up 3 frets, and I feel like it added a bit of punch to it. Completely up to you if you want to use this idea or not, though.
One final thing: In "Verse 2" if you let the second guitar play the ghost notes from the first guitar, while still leaving the power chords where they are, it adds for a pretty cool dynamic. (I hope I explained that well enough.)
Well, the 7-string guitar string most likely won't be long enough to reach your tuners. But most guitar stores sell strings by the single string, so just ask for like a .60 gauge bass string along with whatever set you decide on getting.
Once you get the tuners, a little tip to help strings stay in tune: After you re-string your guitar, pull on the strings for a while in various spots of the neck. Obviously don't pull so hard that they'll break, but hard enough to stretch them out. Stretching the strings before you play will help your tuning stability. Since the strings are stretched before you start playing, they won't stretch out (or detune) as much when you're using the trem or doing bends.
Well, I can't really answer the question about your bridge, simply because that's a strange bridge I've had no personal experience with. I can, however answer your question about string gauge.
I'd use a set of at least .12's if you're doing Bb. Maybe even .13's. I was using a D'addario .12 set when I was in drop B, and it had good tension, I figure a half step down shouldn't make much of a difference. But if you like your strings tighter, go with the .13 set.
I hold it at like a 45 degree angle. So whether I hit the string from either direction, it takes the same amount of force to strum. Makes it very even and clean, especially in alternate-picking situations.
the list is the amp heads and cabs that i intend to have a proper listen to not the You tube or perfect set up of the manufacturers websites, was basically hoping that anyone would have a good idea about them, ive read the reviews, listened to youtube, my wife now hates me as much as the neighbours and i still cant decide.
Then I would follow suit and recommend looking into Orange amps and cabs. You get incredible value and tone from Orange heads. And in my opinion, the Orange PPC412 cabinet is the single best speaker cabinet on the market.
All strings will rust eventually. You could try wiping your strings after you play every time. And then when you change strings wipe down the fretboard with lemon oil. Coated strings are probably your best bet for now though. I'd recommend DR.
It honestly looks like you read his post, and purposely disregarded everything he said in it. Seems like an impossible coincidence that you hit on all the things he said he already does.
Anyway, yeah man. There's no real solution to this. If you managed to find stainless steel strings, they'd either be outrageously expensive, or sound like utter garbage... or both.
Even then, they'd eventually wear due to bending and pick attack. They'd get dull-sounding just like any other strings.
If it's at the base, where it joins with the hand, it could (at worst) be a tendon problem. I'd suggest having it looked at because you do NOT want to tear a tendon or ligament. Not fun.
Otherwise, just give it a little rest, maybe for a week. See how it goes.
At one point, I was playing so much that my thumb would start burning after like 15 minutes, then it would get really painful. I let it sit for like a week and everything's fine now. That was almost a year ago.
Again, pure bullshit, and I'll say why in four words: It's called a setup.
Relax, internet tough guy. Acoustics have bulky bodies that make it uncomfortable for some people to get their arm around, thus the thinner body of the electric might make things a bit easier for some.
Next I'm sure you'll go about linking me to one of those thin-body acoustic guitars just to prove me wrong, so I'll just preemptively swat that down right now. Thin-body acoustics are much more rare than normal acoustics (though still quite possible to find on the internet,) and they produce a much thinner sound in comparison to the normal acoustic.
"Playing acoustic on electric guitar" isn't really possible. Acoustic isn't really a style of music, it's just the way the guitar is made. I'm not really sure what it is you meant by this.
Do you mean should you get an electric guitar to play mellow chord-type stuff? If so, yeah I would. It's fairly easy to get a good clean tone from any amp, and the thinner body and the more forgiving string tension of an electric guitar should be more comfortable for you.
Just be aware, it's not really going to sound the same. Acoustic guitars have a voice that isn't easily reproduced with an electric guitar.
It's somewhere in between. I wouldn't call it satin, because it's a bit smoother than that, but it's not really glossy either. It's like a hybrid of some kind. I guess it's closer to satin though. I sweat a lot too, but I don't see it becoming a problem for the finish. Just wipe the sweat off before you're finished playing.
Quote by jaybals
mmm, sexy guitar! HNGD!!!
Is 27" scale length quite a long one? is it a baritone as well as 7 string? For teh uber drop tuningz!
Yeah 27" is baritone scale, but the 7 string is still tuned BEADGBe even with the baritone scale. It tightens the strings a bit more, and delivers a more articulated sound that way.
I've tuned the whole thing down a half step, and the strings are still nice and tight, except when I drop tune the low string, it gets a little muddy compared to the others. I'll get a thicker set of strings later this week and that should remedy the situation.
Hey guys, I just got my Agile Septor Pro 727! This thing is absolutely amazing! The pickups are a little muddy on the lowest string, but I'm going to be replacing them with Bareknuckles in the near future anyway.
Specs: 27" Scale 5-piece maple/walnut neck Thru-Body neck design Ebony fretboard, no inlays, position markers on the side. String-Thru body design Grover Die Cast tuners (To be replaced with sperzel locking) Overall length of 42 inches.
Hard Ash body, natural finish (only lightly lacquered to seal the wood)
Take a look! (A couple of the pictures are a bit blurry, sorry.)
It is a thing of beauty. Plays like a dream.
For those of you who are wondering about the neck, it's essentially an ESP Thin-U shape. A bit thicker than an Ibanez, much thinner than a Schecter. Perfect fit for me, because my 6-string had the thin-U neck.
I have the HD100, if you take the time to fiddle around with the EQ and really dial in a tone, you can get some excellent sounds out of this thing. For the price, it's definitely not a bad way to go, but if I were to do it all again, I'd save up a few hundred more and buy an Axe-FX...
But yeah, out of the two choices, I cast my vote for the HD100.
So i will look for a vox valvetronix amp,does it have as many features as rolands that can change the tone of the guitar and add special effects?
Absolutely, my Vox (the XL version) has 11 amp models, and about a dozen effects like Chorus, Phaser, Reverb, Compression (SUPER USEFUL), Delay, all that good stuff. They sound great, too! Could not have been happier with that choice of amp, I never regretted it.
I recently wanted to play my old Epiphone Les Paul (because it's in standard tuning, and my current guitar is in Drop B with .12s on it.)
When I plugged it in, I noticed the output of the guitar was abysmal, it sounded like it was halved. I switched it to the neck position, and the volume was as it should be, so the problem only occurs in the bridge position.
Is it just a problem with the switch, or did something (somehow) happen to the humbucker?
@Jsteele ok thank you, ive seen a lot of roland amps where i take lessons, but i will look up a vox amp now, would you say amps or guitars are the more important factor, because it seems a lot of more talk came towards the amp than the guitar in this discussion haha :P
I'd say they're both equally as important. Without a good amp, your guitar won't sound good. Without a good guitar, your playing will suffer.
I think there's more amp talk because you seem pretty confident in your choice of guitar, but were looking for more advice on the amp. (Also, the exact model of my Vox amp was AD15VT-XL, just for a little more information.)
Yeah, I'm sorry. I thought you were getting an amp with the guitar and wondering what the next one should be.
Since that's not the case, a Roland Cube or Vox Valvetronix will do you fine. I had a Vox Valvetronix 15-watt and it was a great little amp, I would certainly recommend it. It seems like a good fit for your desired playing style, too.
Thanks so far for the feedback, im always appreciative of more and more people trying to help. I'm keeping a more open mind on amps now, i will look into tubes, the marshall, and still keep the roland in mind and see for the price i will get in town which one does the most that i could want for my dollar.
Also it is rather unfortunate that the white guitar doesnt come with a maple fretboard, even though almost all the others ones do, im not sure if im skilled enough to replace the whole neck with a maple one manually without damaging it but i really dislike rosewood necks on electrics (Despite loving them on acoustics) i don't know why but it's just something about me that has made me not enjoy the rosewood necks i have played on in stores nearly as much. Probably the look of it doesnt appeal to me which makes my mind perceive the guitar to not sound as nice as it probably does... darn psychological mindtricks haha
Just to clarify: Is there an amp that comes with the guitar, or are you asking what you should get as your FIRST amp?
@Jsteele Hm, will the 5W tube amp really outperform a 20w Roland cube, considering you say it will cost more?
Yes, absolutely. It takes 10x the wattage to make an amp twice as loud, so there's not much of a difference in maximum volume between the 5 and 20 watts. Also, the Roland Cube is solid state, where the Marshall Class 5 is all-tube, meaning it's all organic sound, with no digital processing.
Secondly What is the best budget amplifier for an electric guitar. I've been thinking a small 20 watt roland amp is a good cheap one, but i don't really know to be honest :P
So thank you to anyone who takes time to read and respond to this, I won't pain you to read something this long in the future, I'm just quite ambitious regarding buying my first electric axe.
I have a slight distaste for strats, so I'll just skip to the amp question.
I always recommend buying a decent tube amp. You can get a small one, like a 10 or 20 watt, and that will plenty for you. Solid state amps can be (and usually are) very digital sounding, and if you buy one, you will start realizing over time how much better tube amps can really sound.
I noticed you said you're getting an amp with the guitar, so I'd recommend using that until you can save up enough for a good tube amp. Just as a starting point, have a look at the Marshall Class 5. It's a 5 watt tube amp, and it has a great sound for such a little amp.
Keep in mind, tube amps are much more expensive than solid state amps, but they're something that you (most likely) won't want to throw out a window after a couple months.
Any ps3 exclusive will blow a 360 exclusive out of the water. Most multi-platform games look the same on both which is probably what you're basing that statement on. One example of a multi-platform game being leaps and bounds better on the ps3 vs 360 is FF13. To give you an example, the resolution of the 360 version (cut scenes included) runs at 576p, which is not even HD resolution. The ps3 version (again cut scenes included) runs at a full 1080p.
Right, that game was developed on PS3 and ported to 360. Ported. Not developed separately for both consoles. They reduced the resolution because it was a one-step fix, where re-designing the graphics engine to make use of the 360's multiple GPU cores would take far more effort.