I feel like this thread should continue on, since I've learned a lot reading through this. I've been playing since my 10th birthday, and I'm 17 now, so 7 years. Over that time I've collected and sold a few things so I'll list them.
Guitars Agile Septor Elite 725 Semi-Custom - $818.28 Ibanez RGD7321 $599.99 Jackson DK2M - $450.00 (got with EMG's installed for $350, Blackouts for $100 extra) Suntech Neckthrough Strat - Free (Payment for work) Epiphone G400 - $350.00 Epiphone Goth Xplorer - $300.00 Squier Affinity Series Strat - Free (Birthday present, 1st guitar) Ventura Acoustic - Free (Was sitting in my basement) Cordoba C5 Classical - $200.00 Brice HXB 405 Bass - $289.99
I'm in the process of building a headless chapman grand stick, and I'm looking for a suitable bridge. I chose headless because for one I don't like the look of headstocks on chapman sticks, and two I want it to be the least top heavy. I've looked at stradenburg modular bridges, but $95 for a single string seems ridiculous, especially when I need 12 of them. Suggestions?
When you go to concerts and see walls of stacks, usually only two are actually in use while the rest are on standby mode. The guitar runs through all the effects and so on, but there is a stereo split somewhere in the chain that sends a signal to the left amp and the right amp individually. the reason (aside from looking cool and showing off) for having a wall of stacks is that say a tube were to blow or something, the guitarist could run through the other amps as simply as unplugging the cabs from one head and plugging them into a different working one.
If you use Ice4600's diagram, with a wire going from the right (unused) lug of the switch to the back of the pot, and using a SPDT CENTRE OFF switch. This will give you: pos 1: Kill, pos 2: tone 10, pos 3: tone 0. Note that if you used a centre on switch, you would have an extra kill instead of a tone10 position, and using a regular SPDT would only give you two positions, of tone0 and kill.
You would have to use an on/off/on SPDT switch, but yes, that's feasible.
The diagram is simple. To make all sound go away, you connect the hot signal to the ground (ie. killswitch). To make only part of the signal go away (ie. the highs like a tone knob does) you connect the signal to ground through a capacitor. The capacitor filters out higher frequencies and shunts them to ground. the higher the value of the capacitor, the more of the higher frequencies get shunted to ground. For humbuckers I use anything from .022 to .047 uF (microfarad) capacitor, those are usually the range used for guitar tone knobs.
The switch in the diagram basically just switches from open (no signal shunted, normal tone) to a closed circuit where the signal is being shunted through the capacitor to ground (tone knob on 0)
You could even connect it to the switch on a push/pull volume pot, so you don't have to drill any holes for toggle switches.
Hey, I'm finishing the mods to my Squier including a full rewire and I came up with this diagram. I'm just looking for a second pair of eyes to check it over, I've been modding for too long
EDIT: Figured I'd tell you guys what it's supposed to do, haha. Standard 5 way strat wiring, but HSH so positions 2 and 4 have 3 coils activated (humbucker and single coil in parallel), there is a neck on switch and the tones are two masters (one bass cut, one treble cut)
The part I'm unsure of is the LED's. I drew it up so that whatever pickups were activated, those LED's would turn on when the switch was in the on position.
Here you go. Basically what it this is an FX loop that when engaged also changes the channel on your amp. your guitar or FX send is plugged into the top left jack, and your amp input or FX return is plugged into the bottom left jack. The center bottom jack plugs into the footswitch jack on your amp. The input to your FX pedal plugs into the top right jack and the output plugs into the bottom right jack. If you want the FX loop engaged while the amp is on the distortion channel, then wire the diagram as is. If you want the loop active while your amp is on the clean channel, then move the wire connected to the bottom right lug on the switch to the bottom left lug of the switch. All jacks are mono as it is a passive circuit and the switch is a 4PDT.
I'll be going for matched reciprocal tuning, so the lowest string would be on the bass side in the middle of the fingerboard. I'd like to be able to use graphtech saddles so at a later date I could add piezo+MIDI so I want a bridge that can be equipped with those. If I have to make one, I will but I'd rather not unless as a last resort.
For pickups, would a seven string EMG sized Blackout and a 5 string bass soapbar be good? why specifically soapbars?
I've stumbled upon a situation where I can get enough wood, Cherry to be exact, to build a Chapman Grand Stick. I chose a Stick over a guitar or bass since its generally less labor intensive for a first full scratch build, and I've wanted to play one and not shell out $2500 for an instrument I can't yet play. Before I cut a single log I'd like to account for every piece of hardware that I'll buy.
First off, the Bridge. I don't want to order one from the manufacturer since OEM parts are ridiculously priced so I've been looking at alternatives. Hipshot is a possibility, just stacking two of their six string bridges next to each other, but would a bass string manage to fit in the saddle? If not, what other options do I have? I've also considered buying 12 saddles from Hipshot and making my own bridge base.
Second are tuning machine heads. I'd like machine heads that can fit guitar strings and bass strings without being huge and taking up a lot of headstock room. What are my options?
Third are Pickups. Should I be looking at active pickups or passive? and Should I do a bass/treble staggered split like a P-Bass pickup or go for a guitar pickup and a bass pickup?
If you read all that and can give me a helpful answer, I'd be so happy. Thanks!
I've been restoring/modding an old Suntech strat copy, and the threads in the neck pickup's base are made of plastic and were stripped years back. I'm awaiting funds to install new pickups, but the bridge and machine heads are in need of replacement first. In the meantime, does anyone know how I could go about fixing the threads? thanks!
I received a guitar from my uncle yesterday under the assumption that it was a shitty beat to hell and back guitar for me to restore, but when I opened the case, I was thoroughly surprised. I don't know anything about it other than its made by "Suntech" (info?) and that its a beautiful natural neckthrough. I'm aiming to just take a look at the wiring, reattach what needs to and getting a new, not cracked pickguard, in addition to new machine heads to replace the broken ones. I won't have much time to work on this for probably a week, but it will get done. For now here's some bad pics, suggestions?
Not really... You can get a sweep from just building a tone knob into an expression pedal, but you won't get any of the vocal "wah" tone. I personally don't understand the innards of a wah pedal completely yet, but I'm sure the answers you're looking for are in the ultimate pedal building thread. Good luck!
The swell issue has to do with the taper of the pot. Linear versus Audio. The way you describe it, you probably have Linear taper pots. These can be easily switched out for Audio taper pots, which will give a smoother increase in volume. Also, general consensus is that 500k pots are best used for humbuckers and 250k are best used for single coils, although some people choose differently. since you haven't changed any parts, I would assume that Schecter put 500k pots in the C1+ as it is equipped with humbuckers.
the goal of this is to get it so that one pickup can be on a clean channel while the other can be dirty so that switching from rhythm to lead is a one flick deal. a spdt switch for each pickup decides whether or not the current flows through the distortion driver. would this diagram, in theory, work? my friend and i tried to do it up, but we got nothing but buzz when we plugged into an amp. it could be that we did it wrong, but it could also be because the diagram doesnt work. my main concern is that splitting and rejoining wires, as you can see on the diagram, is messing it up. so, would this diagram work and me and my friend are idiots, or is something wrong with it? if it wont work, could anyone suggest anything else? i know another distortion driver would do the trick, might just have to do that.
I'm not sure about the rest of the diagram since I don't have much time to look at it right now but you should add a stereo jack and wire the return of the battery to the ground and then a lead back to the battery to act as a switch, this way you won't drain your battery.
I don't think the wattages add up like that. if you have two groups of speakers in paralllel, I think the 100W will get divided evenly 50W/50W between the two groups so the 60W is fine but the 40W won't be. I'd search for more info though, I may be completely wrong.
wire up a pot in your guitar exactly like you would wire a master tone, but instead of using a .22uf or a .47uf cap, use two shottky diodes wired in antiparallel. That means one pointing one way, one pointing the other way. the knob will act as a clipping circuit. It won't "add" gain, but it will clip your signal, giving you a distorted tone.
I don't know how much I'd trust the system/company based on the following:
The Sta-Tuned Vibrato Fine-Tuner allows you to easily go to different tunings without removing the String-Lock. This will only be neccesary when you want to change your tuning or if, over time, temperature or humidity affects your tuning.
If you want to have better tuning stability with a Bigsby, I've heard that the best option is to upgrade to a roller TOM and locking tuners, with lubrication of the nut.
I'm looking for an Ibanez RG7620 seven string guitar, specifically this model with stock hardware or better. finish condition really isn't an issue since I plan on refinishing it, but the hardware and the neck should be in the best possible condition. Wiring is also not an issue since I will be replacing all components.
As stated above, I will purchase a guitar with flaws in the finish or wiring, but the price must be adjusted accordingly anyway due to the fact that I'm short on money. PM me, please include pics.