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get a push/pull and go for a middle phasing switch.
@Monkey: He wants concentric pots though.
Its this diagram but the two volumes will be stacked and the two tones will be stacked. Then just take the respective hot and ground wires shown attached to the jack, and connect them to the hot and ground input of the distortion circuit. Then just connect the hot and ground from the distortion circuit to the output jack.

Basically:
Guitar Hot --> Distortion Input, Distortion Output --> Jack.
Guitar Ground --> Distortion Ground --> Jack.

Also, you're going to need 9V current to run your distortion circuit and probably a switch to turn it on and off to not drain battery constantly. to do this, first get a stereo jack. Then, connect the black wire from the battery clip to the nubbin on the stereo jack that connects to the ring in between the others (called the ring connection). then ground the other end of the circuit where the battery's black wire should connect. This will only turn on the battery/circuit when the guitar is plugged in, so unplug your guitar when you're done playing and you'll conserve battery.
Thats a really pretty deep blue. good job.
Thats what I was afraid of, but I don't think the body is thick enough at the bottom to carve enough so I'm going to find an spst jack if I can and hopefully it will be smaller.
Hahaha, ok. I'm off to see if I can figure out the switch throws/jack lugs without buying one first, and more importantly if it fits under the angled jack plate of a strat which I hope, but doubt.
Hey thanks Jim.

Quote by Invader Jim
edit: i used your quote in the OP. hope you dont mind

No. I hate you. You left out my llama.


Quote by carousel182
could someone please hook me up with a wiring diagram for 2 humbuckers a three way, 2 tones and two volumes. I have a red wire that is the hot wire, a bare wire and a white wire (golden age pickups from stewmac)


Look on seymourduncan.com for simple diagrams like that in their wiring section. This thread is for guidance, its not a request thread. You should do the searching since you're the one that benefits from it, not any of us. We're here to help you and give as much explanation as possible, but we don't do the work for you. If you find a diagram, by all means post it and we'll check it for you. Good luck in your endeavors

And for good luck you even get a llama
I mean like, soldering the wire to where the pot lugs were. it takes a little work soldering a wire to a PCB where a wire wasn't intended.
^The difficulty isn't that, its getting the wires connected to where the original pots were in the PCB.
I had an idea once to connect two wah shells side by side and connect each pot to a respective High Range and Low Range pot on a Micro POG. In the end though, its basically a whammy pedal so I abandoned the idea and started focusing on making them control two pots of a Carbon Copy Delay. Its feasible, but requires decent knowledge of which wire goes where and how pots work. I say go for it, but make sure you do a little reading before hacking up a pedal.
I was wondering if anyone knew the pinout/function for this switch. I want to use it in my Piezo Strat diagram to turn on the 9V current without sacrificing dual outputs for bi-amping. This is the switch.
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/JK31/9-Pin-14-Stereo-Jack-w-DPDT-Switch.html

And this is the original diagram. I want to replace the relay with the push/pull and replace the 9V switch onto the DPDT jack switch. I don't want to keep switching on and off the 9V to avoid popping, and I don't think I'll have enough room in the control cavity to fit the relay.
Quote by metalwarrior40
It has been decided then. I shall slot the board today, and rip some binding. Just need to get another truss rod.


This is going to look sexy.
Quote by metalwarrior40

If i did the opp on #1, i would have to do flame maple binding, since it's pointless to put walnut binding on a walnut top.


do it now.
if they're plastic, they shouldn't affect your tone at all, if they're metal, the content will decide how different they sound.
I like the idea of opposite, but are you going ahead with the ebony binding or would you change it to walnut to be truly opposite?
Really if pedal companies used 4PDT instead of 3PDT the last column could just be 9V on/off, therefore eliminating the need to unplug pedals, just turn them off.

Their reasoning however is valid since if you tend to leave your pedals/board always plugged in, chances are you're running a 9V power supply opposed to batteries which can simply be switched off.
they aren't hard to install at all, you just unscrew your old saddles, screw these on and feed the wires through. They plug in to the preamp without soldering. the only thing you will have to solder is the output jack, and possibly the volume pot, which are both incredibly easy, you really should be ok installing these.
Quote by salgala2000
google, amazon, ebay, guitarcenter


^Unhelpful, go away.

http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?CategoryID=2

The Graphtech GHOST system is pretty highly regarded as a peizo system since it is modular allowing other components of theirs to simply plug in like a master switch, and a MIDI preamp/13-pin jack and so on. It won't sound IDENTICAL to the one in the video since its a different (and IMO better quality) pickup system, but the general idea is the same throughout. I've heard it on a number of occasions and it sounds full, not thin. I'm currently saving up for a guitar in which to install these, but guaranteed I will.
I could see that being useful, good job!
Quote by Life Is Brutal
No pics, sorry.

Im working on a 7 string build, and here are the specs.

Soft Maple Body
Mahogony Neck
Bloodwood fretboard

I chose mahogony as a neck material to balance out the harshness of the maple, and the pups I've chosen should balance it even more.

25.5" Scale
24 or 27 Frets. Haven't decided.

John Petrucci's Liquifire Neck and X2N Bridge pups. X2N may be swapped for 7 string D-Activators.

Locking tuners and Locking nut.
7 String Licensed Floyd rose Bridge.

Costs: $290 Minimum, $452 Maximum, $368 Estimated.

Opinions on these specs? It should resolve well IMO.

Body has been bandsawed out. Neck has been shaped and carved. Neck is almost ready to be finished. Fretboard has yet to be made, and material needs to be purchased.


I'm sorry if I missed something, but I see no questions in there
Regardless, sounds like it'll be a nice build.
I don't think contrast is the greatest idea for this guitar. It would draw the eye away from the sexiness of the quilt. I say go for the same color as the middle of the body. Make the rings blend in with the rest of the guitar, all flowy and firey and such.
I've implemented this in a few circumstances, it works great. you shouldn't get any noise unless you flip 9V and ground or something. I'll grab my wiring diagrams, 1 sec.
http://img63.imageshack.us/i/9vpowerpedal.jpg/
http://img15.imageshack.us/i/9vpowerguitar.jpg/
^Theres a Jerry Cantrell Signature Wah out right now by Dunlop, it looks great, but its a little pricey. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Dunlop-JC95-Jerry-Cantrell-Signature-Crybaby-Wah-Guitar-Effects-Pedal-423644-i1517653.gc

I'm guessing he used his amps overdrive, since his tone is rather tubey, but there are effects layered on top of the overdrive. I'm not sure what they are, but it sounds almost like a subtle chorus flanger. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Good job, that was some quick work, lol. if you want to make a new pickguard, you can get blanks large enough to fit the bass pickups on there too, you just need to measure. I've seen blanks come in 1' x 2' so I would think that would give you room to work with a cool design or something.
wire it to a standard 3 single coil diagram, then connect the two bass pickups to the output jack directly, simple as that. I'd wire a volume control in between the bass pickups and the output jack though, just to have some control over it. I'll draw you a diagram, 1 sec.

Edit: Here is a diagram, I hope its easy to see what I did. Basically, a guitar volume, a guitar tone, and a bass volume all on the strat pickguard.
Those Ghost systems are great, just remember you will need the matching preamp if you aren't planning on going straight into a PA, but even then its a good idea to have one.
you should go with piezo loaded saddles for an acoustic/Michael Hedges tone!
I forgot about a tuner, I'll look into a rack chromatic tuner. I don't need a rack wah, I've already got a Bad Horsie I and its enough for me. My amp has a controlled slave out so another line out is not necessary, I don't really use the one I have anyway. My amp has pretty good reverb, but I'll look at a unit if I can find it cheap.
The rack drawers are for all the tools and cables I need (a lot). I like having things all in one place and the drawers are convenient. I'm also probably going to go with only one.

I've narrowed my searches down to the following:

Delay - (needs to be rather versatile/adjustable)
Reverb - (has to be more than just one type of reverb if I have to spend money on it)
Flanger - (would be nice, I'm probably going to get a Phase 100 for Phasing.)

Thanks guys for all the help!

EDIT: I was wondering, how necessary is a power conditioner unit? Could I just run a surge protector and/or a circuit breaker to save the money and put it towards any of the actual effects I need?
Quote by Benguitar2
Go back to a pedalboard..

If you aren't gonna use the advantages of MIDI, You might as well not use racks.

Voodoo Lab GCX and Ground Control Pro


Retardedly easy to setup MIDI controlled Audio Switcher.


The only reason I don't want MIDI is price, but if I can find a nice MIDI switcher for a good price, I'd be more than grateful since my Mesa supports MIDI switching.
I liked what I read about the GMajor, but its aspensive and I have to be able to fund a 7 string build and possibly a stick build as well as this and my 2x12.
I'm sticking the Sonic Max in the rack so I don't really need a compressor, delay is a great idea, thanks. I just prefer analog/vintage tones when it comes to effects over digital.
you should dye the guard black, it would keep with the classic black on red for the SG, but it would have a natural look to it being wood and all.
I considered those, but I have a Bad Horsie already and the rack wah's are ridiculously pricey. I like the tone and response from cables, and I don't have too much money or need for a wireless system so I'm leaving that out. I'm looking more for a magic little 1U box that is a combination of a phaser, flanger, chorus or other ANALOG effect just for some variation.
Yeah, after more searching that's all I've been able to find except for a select few and I didn't like those, thanks though. I thought of getting the MXR KFK 10-band EQ pedal since it has twin outputs in case I want to use two outputs, but I'd rather be able to EQ each channel individually so I think rack mounting is the way to go with an A/B/Y.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can put in space #4? I'm open to most suggestions, just no MIDI or a cooling system since the enclosure will have built in cooling systems.
^that sounds correct, is the back of the pot properly grounded to the input jack sleeve?
Hey, its now officially summer for me and therefore time to start building things. Before you all say "post in GB&C," this is not the build thread, this is the "help me fill the rack" thread. I'm going to be building a 6 Unit rack space and I've settled on the following:

1. Power Conditioner-
2. BBE Sonic Maximizer 362
3. Stereo Graphic EQ-
4. -Suggestions?-
5. 1U Rack Drawer
6. 1U Rack Drawer

I've seen a few power conditioners but I don't know much about them so I'd like
some help deciding on one. These are some of the ones I've found, but I'm still looking.

Furman M8X
Furman M8X2

The Graphic EQ is something I don't know much about either. I don't want it to be overly complicated, but I'd like it to be stereo and more than a basic 4 band amp EQ. In my search I've found 15 band stereo EQ's and that seems excessive so I don't want something that ridiculous.
you have to make sure that the neck pocket is the right shape/size and that the scale length is correct. If you have the original neck that you want to replace, measure it from the nut to the 12th fret, and do the same to the new neck. if those have the same measurements, then they're the same scale length. This doesn't absolutely mean that it will work though, you have to make sure that when the new neck seats in the pocket, it doesn't sit and farther or closer to the bridge than the original neck or else intonation will be way off.

Part I'm Unsure About
If you have the same amount of frets and the same scale length, I believe you can measure the distance between the end of the neck heel and the end of the fretboard, and if those are the same then theoretically it will work.