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maybe a neckthrough design? You could use cedar for the body wings but use a harder, stronger wood such as maple for the neck just to make sure you don't have any problems.
considering what you've already done, go for it.
You shouldn't need the LED indicator since you can just look to see if the switch is up or down, lol. I think your biggest problem here is going to be 1, getting the push/pull in place of the original pot within the circuit board and 2, getting it all to fit in the control cavity where you want it.
if this is going into a strat, I'd wire your middle tone as a master tone and then replace the 3rd knob with the push/pull. The 3rd knob would act as the pedal's pot and the switch to turn it on, just to clean it up a bit. I can draw you a diagram if you can get a schem of the pedal up.
The scallop looks great, good job!
I've seen people affix the non-slip sticky rubber from bathtubs to their board which doesn't let them slide around, but they don't affix the pedals in place if thats what you're looking for.
Well, did you get the Intrepid Pro that has 1 or 2 EMG 808 pickups or did you get the passive loaded bolt-on-neck kind? If you have the EMG 808 pickups, the Blackouts should drop right in, I've heard they're a little larger but nothing a little sanding couldn't fix. If you have the passive loaded ones with the passive sized routing, you will need to do some routing to accommodate the larger Blackouts.
I thought of using the rubber lining for sealing doors but since my amp already has an open-ish back (open with the bottom half covered), should I just go ahead and make a closed back cab to tighten up OD and leave cleans to the combo speakers?
Also, you said the interior volume matters, but does it go further than "use odd dimensions" for the inside?
Push/pull for the coil tap. Gives a cleaner look, less switches on the guitar face. You could also set the other push/pull to turn on either the neck pickup or the bridge pickup soy you can have a Petrucci-esque single coils in parallel clean tone.
Intonation has less (nothing?) to do with scale length, more how precisely its set. Jason is right, its tension that benefits.
Usually you'll have:

1 Bridge humbucker
2 Bridge tapped and middle in parallel
3 Middle
4 Neck tapped and middle in parallel
5 Neck humbucker

With something called a superswitch, you can have lots more like those above options in series and the like, but I don't know much about them.
Wow, that was fast. Thanks!

I think I'll be able to pull of a decent seal, I can always add layers of tolex on top of the back panel until I get a tight seal.

I'm going to try the dual function cab, so I'm thinking a basic prism made out of 2x4's should suffice with bracing at all right angles and butt joints. right? (screws + wood glue to secure). I'll wrap that in 1/4" ply and then tolex. I need an odd inside dimension though, I'll get that if I go with the Mesa dimensions or similar. right?

Scrap the idea of it holding the combo, I'll put them next to each other. I don't want to risk dropping my most expensive and most delicate piece of gear.

1 more question, I was thinking, would it be a good idea to put a cooling fan in the back of the cab, not to cool it since it doesn't produce appreciable heat, but to promote airflow behind the speakers?
People use DPDT switches to coil tap usually because they are attached to push/pull pots and can allow you to tap both pickups at once to save a push/pull to do something else. But yes, you are correct in that you only really need an SPST. Also, you are correct as to how coil splitting works.
Hey, I'm planning on making an extension 2x12 cabinet for my brand new Mesa combo for a more versatile setup. Before anyone asks, yes I have searched, and searched, and searched to no avail. I want to be able to use it for open cleans when needed, or be able to convert it for the tightest metal tones. I also have some questions about dimensions, so here goes:

1. If I recess the back of the cab, could a secured, tolexed piece of MDF or plywood be adequate for making an open back into closed back cab? (ie. is a complete seal necessary?)

2. I want it to resemble my combo in external size and I measured it to be 11"x21"x29" externally so what design and measurements should I follow when building? I've drawn up diagrams, but I'd like to compare it to a solid design for reference.

3. I'd like it to be sturdy enough to hold the amp (~95lbs) but if thats not possible, its ok, I can just toss it on top.

Hey, I'm just looking for a quick confirmation on this wiring diagram I drew up. Functions are as follows:

Master Volume: Push/Pull Neck-On switch
Master Tone: Push/Pull (empty for now, possibly middle out of phase, but later)
Piezo Volume: Push/Pull activates 9V current that flips the DPDT relay to select Piezo output

You should have each ground soldered to the back of its respective pot (ie. neck to neck, bridge to bridge) and the jumper connecting the two pot casings to the sleeve lug on the output jack.
^ I think thats it, I saw that logo in my iTunes and remembered this thread, haha.
Meh, I saw an opportunity to make something out of a feature I don't have a (current) use for, when school gets out I'll see to this further.
I just figured it was in addition to the available mids in the EQ
Will you be having a Mid knob? If you will, why not have the mid boost on the mid knob just to keep things straight so to speak? Sorry if I missed something. Good job with all your other builds I've read through, this is surely going to sound great.
As some of you may know, I purchased a Series 1 Mesa/Boogie Roadking 2x12 combo and I love it but I saw the opportunity to make it cooler. On the back, there are two jacks, one labeled "latching" and one labeled "pulse". These are controlled by the EXT switch on the footswitch and as labeled, indicate whether the switch latches like a regular footswitch or sends an impulse like the channel selectors or a signal that MIDI picks up. I figured I could put this extra latching switch to good use and I designed two diagrams that I'd like input on.


This first diagram simply turns on and off a 9V powered LED strip, nothing fancy.


This second one turns on and off the whole LED system, but there is more. The left rotary switch selects between the 4 colors (white, red, green, blue) and the right rotary selects between a clear (9V) path and 3 other larger and larger resistors to act as a 4 level switch for brightness.

Basically, is this feasible? Do I have it right? Suggestions?

Quote by Benguitar2
Awesome dude!! I have the S1 Road King head and 4x12 Recto cab-

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4575095900_cf6df3da69.jpg

Road King's are sick!

Congratulations!


Thanks, I was wondering though, how hard have you been able to drive your amp? I can't get a good chunky tone out of it yet, I think something might be off with the tubes but I could just be awful at EQing. I've been only using AlNiCo pickups and singles for the time being until I can reassemble my Jackson and get some pickups for my other guitars.
Thats a great looking guitar man, congrats. I like the carve on the inside of the horns too, I bet its comfy!
Quote by stykerwolf
click the link in my sig. just do it


mine is series 1, so its a little different (plus the obvious upside down-ness since its a combo) but like I said before, more switches the the cockpit of the space shuttle
Piezo saddles have a crystal in them that convert vibrations to electrical impulses that in turn go to the preamp. Piezos without a preamp sound very thin and don't really mix well. The preamp reshapes the sound and sends it to whatever amp you're running it to. The amp has less to do with distortion than it does with the actual pickup. piezos pickup a HUGE frequency range that all has to be amplified to hear the distinct "acoustic" tone. electric guitar amps are designed to amplify the much smaller range that magnetic pickups send and therefore don't get the best tone out of piezo pickups.

You don't technically need an acoustic amp, but be sure to set the amp to the cleanest setting for running the piezos through. they will still distort if you want them to, but it sounds muddy and awful and I don't recommend it.
I'd go for the Mark III over the JCM2000 series. Marshall make fantastic amps, but the JCM2000 series isn't the greatest, at least the TSL isn't. Mesa Mark III's usually sell for around $800 - $900 used and they are common so you shouldn't have to look for long.

The used market is your best friend if you treat it properly, make sure to test everything you buy extensively and don't be afraid to say no. Look at everything from local music shops and the GC used section, to craigslist and you will find what you're looking for.
Kinda looks like the Mozilla Firefox logo, but without the fox...hmmm
Thats called a bridge saddle, you can get them at most guitar retailers, but you have to make sure you buy the right one. for reference, I'd bring one other one with you when you go to get one so you can compare. If the place you go to doesn't have them, look online for the saddle, they're pretty cheap.
Thanks peoples. I got it at some guys house who sold it since he can't lift it due to shoulder surgery. I feel sad for him, but the amp is great. I can hit classic rock tones well, blues needs some tweaking since the clean channel isn't the tightest but it sounds fantastic nonetheless. It still needs tweaking, but I'll get it all figured out when I can turn it up louder, but theres just so much to figure out. Not to mention, the back has more switches than the mother****ing cockpit of the space shuttle, lol.

The one thing I'd like would be a light to see what the footswitch buttons do when its dark, I might just stick an LED strip on there with a little 9V or something.
Today I drove out to hell and back but it was f**king worth it! I picked up a Series 1 Mesa/Boogie Roadking 2x12 combo for $1600. Its in good condition with only a couple tears in the face and a couple tolex nicks. The amp sounds fantastic and has more options than any other amp I've ever played. 4 6L6 and 2 EL34 power tubes combine to form 2x 50W modes, 2x 100W modes and a 150W mode in progressive linkage. with 5 linkage settings, 4 channels and 3 modes per channel, a total of 60 different options are available without touching the reverb, either effects loop or solo boost. I haven't had much time to EQ the dirty channels since its night time and my neighbors have an itchy police finger but I'll get that done soon. The amp came with a really durable roadcase, (pictured below) but it adds about 20 lbs to an already 90 lb amp so its REALLY HEAVY. Enough talk, time for Amporn.


I think Callum's next build would outlive me. I don't know if I like that or not...
Sure, really for a coil tap you only need an SPST on/off but any switch will work.

I don't know much about fender/squier wiring when it comes to colors and stuff, but the coil tap is fine.
Pactar! om nom nom nom

Seriously though, thats a fantastic looking instrument, when I acquire enough money, you will be my first call.
Basic rule, always listen to Jim^.
there is something called the Black Ice Mod that you put in place of the capacitor on the tone control of your guitar. It supposedly gives a warm distortion, but I've never actually installed any on my guitars.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1302015&
I'm pretty sure you can just wire it backwards... Just flip the ground from one side to the other and do the same with the opposing wire.
you'd have no way of stopping the strings from sliding around and you'd have no way to adjust intonation. Get an actual wraparound from gfs, they're not that expensive.
eh, like I said, do as you wish. I think my only real aversion to it is mobility and the fact that getting a half stack into a ford focus isn't as easy as a 2x12 combo