a humbucker is wired in series but it can be switch operated to go to parallel. Series wiring within a HB is what eliminates the 60 cycle hum you get from most single coils. It has the thick humbucker sound without hum. Parallel sounds closer to a single coil since it basically makes the HB two independent singles on at once. Parallel has a thinner tone, but not nasal like out of phase coils. Parallel wiring is also hum canceling. Think positions 2 and 4 on a strat switch, just a little tighter sounding (due to the coils being closer in a HB).
Its all trial and error really. you aren't going to break effects unless you stick an 18v in a 9v jack or something, so experiment. sometimes an effect that you think surely wouldn't sound good there, sounds fantastic. It takes all of 10 seconds to switch around pedals, move them in and out of the loop.
Ibanez TS9 would be your best bet. Variable gain and boost, exactly what you stated you're looking for. The MXR EQ pedals are very nice too. They give a great boost and precise control over your tone, but they do not actively add gain themselves.
Rondo does make quite good LP styled guitars, I suggest looking at them as there are so many that you could buy one similar to what you want and mod it. They are also very good bang for your buck as they are good quality but still very cheap in terms of cost. their custom shop is closed right now, but it will re open eventually.
You can find a C1 Classic rather easily, I would also look into the C1 Elite as it has a figured maple top like you want. There is also another C1 I have seen, the name escapes me but it has a quilted maple top, its semihollow and has a stock piezoelectric pickup system in addition to the Magnetic pickups.
The Blackjack ATX has Seymour Duncan Blackouts, which are active but are supposed to give better clarity and headroom than EMG's without a thin, nasally sound. Now this is my opinion and even though its shared my many people, some disagree so I don't want to start a Blackout Vs EMG spam war, I'm just offering suggestions.
How exactly are you planning on wiring each for stereo? You can't just split a guitar (or bass) signal and have each split be as powerful as the original. You will get half power on each side. I don't really see the purpose of this as you could just do this further down the chain if you really want to without complex wiring inside of an instrument with complex enough wiring as it is. My advice is go for a single stereo jack, send bass down one lug and guitar down the other and split at the other end. that leaves you with only 1 wire to trip over, not two and a much less difficult wiring task.
I'm looking, believe me. MarkIII's are kinda hard to find around here, not sure if its like that everywhere but I've seen very few. Never actually heard let alone played a Mark IV so I don't know much about them. I'll keep looking and post what I find.
Edit: Just found the head for $1475 about 35 miles away.
The reason I like the TSL over the DSL is the independent EQ for each channel which is a make/break for me, I'm rather eq-picky. Also, I really like the Roadster and would rather have a 2x12 roadster but I'm limited to what shows up on craigslist for this particular amp due to its immense price. I do play metal, but I also play rock, classic rock, punk, skater punk, classical, neoclassical, funk rock and some jazz/blues. I don't gig regularly or anything, but I jam with friends and sit in for friends when they can't play.
Hello, I've been playing guitar for 6 years now through a 15W fender frontman from the stratpack and through an atrocious Line 6 that I got as a gift. I believe it is time to take a step into buying a tube amp. I've played many tube amps before and I know lots about them but I'm in a conundrum. I've always wanted a Mesa Roadster but their high price (even used is $1550USD for just the head) has stopped me from buying one. I have the opportunity to buy a Marshall TSL 100 halfstack on craigslist for $900 and his description seems to say that the amp is in good condition. I have enough money to buy the Mesa actually, but then I would end up with only a head and no cab which is bad and I would like a pedal or two. I've also been looking at buying a Bugera 333XL halfstack with the intent of replacing the tacky front grill (possible?). I'm just looking for experienced opinions such. thanks for reading such a long, boring post
In that case, just wire it up as normal then wire the hot wire from the humbucker to the middle push/pull lug as well and the bottom lug to the volume knob.
Ideally, i would like the bridge pickup to be activated no matter what setting the 5 way switch is on, to blend any combo of pickups i like, e.g 5 way set to "neck," push the pot, and the bridge pickup is added to the neck, at the volume set by the push/pull pot. If possible, i want it to just function as just a volume knob for the bridge pup if the 5 way selector is set to "bridge" or "bridge/mid," but im not sure if this is possible. (I just dont want to be on stage, flick from "neck" to "bridge" in the middle of a song, just to find that i forgot to push the switch down... )
with a push/pull on the tone knob to engage the other two coils in position 3 to have Bridge HB + Neck HB. you could try something like this, I'm not sure how it was wired, but apparently it can be done.
I'd go with a DiMarzio Air Norton instead of the SD in the neck, just because of its warmth and good tone. For an HSH config, I would go for two coil taps on one knob, and a series/ parallel switch on the other so with a 5 way switch you get:
Vol: Down Tone: Down 1 Bridge series (humbucker) 2 split bridge + middle parallel 3 middle 4 middle + split neck parallel 5 neck series (humbucker)
Ghost is a piezoelectric pickup system for reproducing acoustic guitar tones with a "plug and play" solderless attachable 13 pin MIDI pickup system. Its a great piezo system (don't know what AXmichigan is talking about) but if you want the MIDI capabillity you have to buy the seperate circuit board/13 pin jack package. But again, with any MIDI system it requires two independent parts. The pickup is in your guitar just like you said, but you can't just use the pickup. the pickup won't do anything plugged straight into an amp or PA, you need a synth system usually held in the pedal, a rack mounted box or into a computer to process/modulate the signal.
Watch this , it helped me understand lots of this stuff:
This sounds like it would be a great all-GFS build, shelling out money for an edge and dimarizos and whatnot will end up getting you way over the original price of the guitar, really fast. I say paint it with the JPM P3 Picasso graphic, just to have it stand out a little.
that would work, but then would he have to sand off the layer of laquer to apply the red stain? there was a build thread not long ago where someone (don't remember who, sorry) built a neck-through 27 fret PRS that had been stained red, black and had parts left natural all on the top. if whoever made that sees this post, could you explain how you did that? also, both builds look fantastic so great job guys.
A'ight, thanks a bunch, I'm not going to test anymore until I get new pickups or my strings wear out enough to warrant cutting them to get under the pg. When I do, I'll post all the values tested with each pickup and see what happens.
.001 and .01 is a pretty big difference and the .047 is about twice as big as the .022. you could try and see what it sounds like, I doubt it'll be what you're looking for but the worst that can happen is you'll have to take em out and throw in something else.
just pick up the caps you need, they're pretty cheap. even at radio shack's jacked up prices they're still cheap.
I know the difference, but I've checked all around locally, even radioshack, and thats all I've come up with, no .022 caps anywhere. I can't order anything online for a little while either so I'm a little bit stuck with them. How exactly does the cap value affect tone? I know how they work outside of a guitar, just not inside one.
I posted in here a while ago about modding my SSS strat with a high pass and low pass filter and was wondering about cap values. I only have a .047u and a .01u cap. Will these be ok or do I need a different cap value to get a good tone? The diagram says .022 for regular tone and .001 for bass cut, but I want to use the .047 and .01 respectively instead. will this work?
Get a new amp, you don't know the potential of your pickups if you've only played them through a line 6. A D Sonic, BKP or Tone Zone, whichever you buy, will sound basically the same through the Line 6. a new amp should be your primary concern, pickups come after.
Instead of a switch, how about a relay? Normal state is bypassing all the active stuff. If the relay is powered, it connects the guitar signal through the active circuits. The relay gets its power from the ring terminal on the guitar output jack, just like the active circuits do. Automatic, yeah?
Hmmmm...You sir, are intelligent. If I get time, I will try this. I haven't used a relay in a guitar yet, It'll be interesting.
EDIT: I understand how all of this works, but installation is confusing me. Imma cook up me a diagram and when its all drawn, I'll post it so you can tell me how wrong I am
Quote by Mookystinks
thats the best post i have read all night.....thanks for makeing my day!!!!
Look at Bugera Amps. they make really awesome clones of the Peavey 6505/6505+ called the 2620/2626 respectively and they make a XXX clone called the 333XL. They sound really similar if not better than their Peavey counterparts and are really affordable. They also make a clone of the Marshall JCM900 called the 1990 if you want a little more brit in your tone. Look them up on youtube and (as much as I dislike GC) Guitar center stocks a few models so you can try one there. Amp>Pedal