Found 172 results
Found 172 results
maybe a soldano hot mod?
Have you taken into account that the lightglobe has resistance that will add to the total impedance of the speaker? Even if it doesn't blow you are going to be putting added strain on the output.
What you need is an L-Pad of sufficiently high a power rating. Stop doing what you are doing now, it can only end in tears.
With the exception of rectifiers, pretty much every pin is used on a socket. So how are you going to split it up into two?
No, you don't have double adapters for tube sockets - you add an extra socket if you need an extra valve.
hmmm would be great idea.
Guitar George, he knows all the chords, but he's strictly rhythm, he doesn't want to make it cry or sing
Dire Straights - Sultans of Swing
I was gonna say Tung-Sols for the clarity and definition.
Honestly I'm not entirely convinced that just by plonking in some different tubes you get a whole new sound out of the same circuit, but if it works... .
oh ok nvm. good thing u got good results from modifications to your own taste haha
yea dc coupling gives u awesome results that aren't so awesome.
so you're trying to maximize distortion. to do that, u can do few things. it won't lead to pleasant sound tho, but you can get more distortion out of it.
-replace R3 with 220k
-replace R4 with 180k
-jumper the treble cap of the tonestack, clip R17 and R15
-for tonal properties, you might want to increase R18 to 270k, replace C4 and C3 with 2uF, 1uF respectively.
these are suggestions. doing all of the parts that increase gain will probably result in unpleasant sound.
Yeah, and I'm still telling you you won't make your tone any more metal no matter what tubes you put into the VJ. The only thing I could do to make one of my VJs sound metal was plugging it into a 2x12" cab and putting distortion boxes in front of it.
But fine, you just want good tubes. I like putting TADs in everything since mine stubbornly refuse to break. For a cheaper option, JJs are prefectly fine though. I'd say get a JJ EL84 along with a JJ 12AX7, and maybe a Tungsol and TAD 12AX7 to try and see if you can hear much of a difference between them (plus it's nice to have backups).
Do it. i would quite like to hear this setup..
No.... no, that doesn't work. That will never work at all. There's a lot more that goes into a good high-gain tone than just distorting the living hell out of everything, and trying to get distortion out of a VJ will just make everything muddier.
You want the VJ clean and all your dirt from whatever pedal/preamp you're using.
i hope you didn't DC couple it.
what's R19? valve JR doesnt have an R19. o_O
I have no idea about that kind of thing if it works then cool
jjs are a pretty good bet for a warmer tone, as PP182 said. compared to the stock sovteks, anyway.
what pedal do you have, if you don't mind my asking?
I'd revalve your junior with some JJs, a 12ax7 in the pre and whatever you want in the power section. Then get yourself a distortion pedal, probably not an overdrive because pushing this amp will just get you a heavy blues lead sound (probably a good one too).
Get a barber dirty bomb, I'd say.
there's no way a higher gain tube is gonna give you metalcore with a valve junior. you need several cascading gain stages to get you that.
best bet is to try a pedal or two...
go back and do the things I told you to do.
the schematics im looking at show R2 in line with the input, and R1 going to ground. sounds like like your version of the schem has it the other way.
but to get more gain you want to lower the inline resistor, and increase the resistor to ground. it looks like people are dropping the inline resistor to about 22k and the resistor to ground is increasing to 1M.
so basicly, this:
if you jumper R2, it will ground out the signal.
my knowledge of tube circuits isn't as good as it used to be but lowering R1 should increase the input level. it won't give you 'more gain' because this is all before the first gain stage. jumpering R1 may not be good for the tube or w/e. like i said, i'm quite rusty.
replace r1 with a 1 meg resistor and switch the locations of r1 and r2 so that 1meg to ground comes first and then 68k into the grid.
better yet replace the 68k with a 47k or 22k.
you can jumper r7.
you'll need a grid stopper on the power tube. 1.5k connected to pin 2 of the power tube. you'll have to cut a trace so if you don't do it it's ok too.
lift the ground of r19.
lift the ground on the tone control.
What would be better is the AC zip cord. Like those you have on lamps, radios, etc.
About those speaker wires, they may not be heavy enough to handle the current.