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An intermittent connection is usually caused by either the output jack or the switch. Try bending the prong of the output jack that connects to the tip of the cable inwards to see if that makes a better connection.
The RG370 has an edge III bridge which is not one of Ibanez's finest to say the least.

How sharp are the knife edges?
Fender like to finish over the necks *after* they've fretted them. What you're removing looks like remnants of finish that should've been removed at the factory in the first place.
Quote by Rebel Scum
A wise man once said, to finish first in Formula 1, first you have to finish. Pole position doesn't equal winning.

It does in Monaco.


I've taken it apart, thoroughly cleaned the jacks and all the faders out with deoxit and the PSU works perfectly. No evidence of bulging caps or burning anywhere on the PCB.

Is it fucked?
Quote by Rebel Scum
We could cherry pick all sorts of stats from that season and never come to something conclusive. It's a shame Alonso didn't hang around for 2008.

Seems pretty conclusive to me.
Quote by Badmotorfingers
T00DEEPBLUE

Interesting. Maybe I’ll have to get one. Is yours 100w or 50w? I played the 100W just recently through the matching cab and it’s pretty killer. But significantly more expensive than the 50w.

just the 50 watt one. The 100w is great too but honestly the 50w one is where its at.
Badmotorfingers
To put it lightly, after I got my 5153, I struggle to get excited by the prospect of owning other amps.
Quote by Rebel Scum
109 points each fella. We will never ever know.

Hamilton secured 6 pole positions. Alonso only secured 2.
Quote by gokuvsarmchai1
T00DEEPBLUE

I’ve got both of those. I boosted the MIDS on the MXR and still got buried. Strange....

If you're still getting buried with the mids boosted to +12 decibels then something is very seriously wrong with your rig. 12 decibels is a massive change.
Quote by Badmotorfingers
T00DEEPBLUE I really like the 5153 but I can't justify getting one when I have an Avenger. How do you compare Soldano to the 5153? They don't seem to be super different, at least blue channel. 5153 seems to have more gain and compressed sound compared to Soldano. 

The 5153 is more modern, refined and tighter than the Soldano. It sounds like its already been TS-9 boosted. Its also a fair bit brighter in the highs with the knobs at noon but that can easily be EQ'd out.
Quote by JudasTheGuide
1.  Have the Paul Ricard circuit's paint lines grown on us?

No. Paul Ricard is a snooze fest. Its way too flat and artificial.

By contrast, what do good tracks like Suzuka, Spa and Interlagos all have in common? They have lots of elevation changes.
2.  Webber and Coulthard were on Channel 5 comparing Hamilton to Schumacher after the race.  Do you think it's fair to say Schumacher is the benchmark because he's won the most world titles?  If you'd put Fangio, Senna, Clark, or Alonso (to name a few) in the cars Schumacher had, how many of them would have been as successful?

I don't think that's necessarily the point.

You don't truly know what a driver is like to race against unless you've actually raced against them. Webber and Coulthard never raced against Senna, Fangio or Clark in their careers. So for them to compare Hamilton's driving to any of them would be doing them all a disservice.

History has already shown us what happens when you put Hamilton and Alonso in the same car. Hamilton wins.
Its not a mistake, its called personal preference.

It goes against convention but its not too unusual either.
Soldano SLO. My 5153 is pretty up there too ngl.
I started playing at 13. I'm now 27. Over half my life.
If you don't already own a tubescreamer and an MXR 10-band EQ, get them.
Quote by Veddy
Nice man, I’m in Bromborough. I’m not familiar with the 6505 or any Peavy amps in fact so some information would he nice

The 6505 is pretty much the industry standard for modern high gain metal tones and its used by dozens of world-renowned bands like Machine Head and Bullet For My Valentine. So if that's the kind of sound you're looking for then a 6505 is a no-brainer.
Used Peavey 6505 combo.

Pretty cool that you're from Wirral too, I'm from Hoylake. I actually have my Peavey 6505 head conversion for sale that I can readily convert back into a combo if you're interested.
There are two problems here. The first one being that you've become used to the way the Heritage sounds to the point that anything which sounds different feels foreign and strange to you. That will resolve itself with time. The second problem is that you've EQ'd your amp to deal with the idiosyncrasies of the Heritage but not the Explorer yet (because you've just recently bought it)

You've turned your preamp gain up so that it sounds good with the weaker output Duncan 59's in the Heritage, So of course the 500T's are not going to sound as tight. They're much hotter pickups that will naturally hit the preamp a lot harder to the point that there's too much gain. You need to turn the preamp gain down to compensate. The booming on the low E string is again another symptom of not EQ'ing your amp to the guitar properly. Lower output pickups like the 59 are almost always going to have less mids and a higher resonant peak than hotter pickups and you've boosted the bass on the amp to compensate. But now that you've got a guitar with hotter pickups and a lower resonant peak, that boosed bass will inevitably become flub.

That squeaking on the low E string is weird. I own a Gibson V with the exact same 500T pickups going into an EVH 5153 and I've never had that problem in the 8+ years I've owned that guitar. I'd chalk that up again to EQ, bad technique, a bad pick or a combination of all three.

The only way the string tension on the Explorer can be lower than your other 24.75" guitars is if you've either tuned it lower or you're using a lighter gauge of string. If the gauge and the tuning are the same but the tension still seems lower, the difference is all in your head

For the record, the nice lower midrange bark of the Explorer made me prefer it over the Heritage. Just fix the problems I've pointed out and you'll be gucci.
Its either going to be 4 or 5mm. Those are the two most common sizes.
Quote by bjgrifter
It's interesting that brands with a more negative rep have the most mentions. And I know at least some of the reasons. I'm really not willing to drop my Squire Bullet, even though it's a bottom of the barrel offering.
I don't care about brands. A great guitar is a great guitar regardless of the price or the name on the heastock.
Killer guitar indeed. What is your amp? Hopefully it's something that can do such a guitar justice.

I was in your exact predicament a few years ago with my LC20 and I swapped the pickups for the same reason. Not because the JB/59's were bad, but simply because I've been playing that set for years and I wanted something different.

I settled on the Duncan Pegasus/Sentient set and I couldn't be happier. Think of the Pegasus as being a tweaked JB that's got a tighter low end and without having that nasty midrange spike the JB is infamous for. People have been saying that the JB is versatile for years, but the Pegasus takes that to another level. It's genuinely hard to get a bad sound out of it as a metal guy. As for the Sentient, think of it as splitting a Jazz and a 59 right down the middle.




I've also tried the EMG Het Set that you've eluded to the OP in a modded LTD EC256 and I didn't think they bridge and neck pickups were very well balanced between each other. The bridge is brighter and an EMG 81 (which is fine if that's your thing) and it doesn't have any of the compression. But the neck pickup was super dark and muddy and bleh in that guitar. I personally think the 57/66 set is better than the Het Set in every way.
The underside of the baseplate is what needs to be parallel with the body.
This is far too personal and subjective a topic to give any definitive answers.

The best (and simplest) advice anyone can give in this case is to buy both and see which one you prefer. Picks are cheap so don't be afraid to buy a dozen different kinds and come up with your own conclusions.
If you're comparing the Special to an actual German-made original Floyd or a Floyd 1000 then sure the Special is inferior. But as cheap Floyds go, it isn't bad.

While the base plate is only made from mild steel, at least the tips of the knife edges are tempered to make them harder and therefore more durable. So the knife edges shouldn't wear out prematurely unless you do something really dumb like adjust the height of the bridge studs to adjust the action whilst the strings are still under full tension. That'll wreck the knife edges in short order.

However, you'll need to be careful to not overtighten the bolts that clamp the strings into the saddles. The saddles are only made from pot metal on the Specials so it's easy to overtighten them and strip them out. The blocks that the Specials use are also only made out of thin pot metal as well, so you'll less than optimal sustain compared to something like an oversized brass one. But that's an easy and cheap upgrade.

The Special is what it is. It's not terrible but at the same time you get what you pay for.

I've also not been too impressed with the Fender Player series Mexican Strats either. I played and looked over a bunch of examples at my local Andertons and all of them had really rough fret ends. By comparison my Chinese-made CV Squier shits all over them, which is pretty inexcusable for a guitar series that's almost twice the price.
Do you have any idea if you want this guitar to have a Floyd Rose or not? Floyds have their advantages and disadvantages that can make or break a guitar for many people. You need to be aware of their benefits and shortcomings before you buy a guitar that has one.

Why do you not care about something so fundamentally important as the body shape, yet you care about it being made out of mahogany which is totally irrelevant in the context of an amplified electric guitar where there's going to be a ton of distortion piled on top of the guitar signal anyway? Weird choice of priorities if you ask me.
Quote by gunaka
I dont need extra active EMG for neck because my current one (passive) is more than enough for me when it comes to neck pickups.
For bridge ground and mixing puckup signals I will treat 2 pickups like 2 seperate circuit so that will not be problem and I dont need position were both pickups (active and passive are active at same time).

Let me explain this again.

Treating the two pickups as being two separate circuits is going to be impossible. Both pickups need to share a common ground with one another or else you'll get a ton of noise. That includes connecting the bridge of the guitar to ground. EMG explicitly state to not connect the bridge to ground with their active pickups. However, due to the high impedance nature of passive pickups, connecting the bridge to ground is necessary if you don't want your guitar to act like a giant radio antennae.

I would also like to point out that your tone control is going to be completely the wrong value for at least one of the pickups. A 500k tone pot will be way too high resistance for active pickups and a 25k tone pot will be way too low low resistance for passive pickups. Causing the active EMG to be either extremely harsh and shrill in the high end or the passive pickup to be unusably dull and muddy. You cannot have your cake and eat it too.

This is why mixing passive and active pickups together is a bad idea. You can commit to going fully active or passive, but you cannot do both and expect desirable results.
Why can't you just buy another EMG?

Mixing active and passive pickups together is a major pain in the ass that causes all kinds of problems. The first is that you cannot combine both active and passive pickups together in the middle position. So if you like the sound of both pickups in series or parallel you're shit outta luck. There are also problems with whether or not you want to ground the bridge because guitars with actives shouldn't have their bridge grounded while passives need to have it grounded or else you'll have noise problems. So which will it be?

Putting actives and passives in the same guitar isn't *impossible* but it's strongly inadvisable.
In terms of the guitars that have been the most musically inspiring to me, probably my Solar Jensen. It's definitely not my most expensive guitar but new riffs keep pouring out of me every time I pick it up.
Putting a buffer at the end of the chain is going to do absolutely nothing if the signal before it has already been buffered.

Buffers are meant by-design to be unity gain amplifiers. When you pass the guitar signal through one, it is designed not to add or take anything away from the signal at all. It's sole purpose is simply to drop the signal from high impedance to low impedance. Once a buffer has dropped the signal to low impedance, the signal stays that way for the rest of the signal path. So adding any additional buffers is of no meaningful benefit to anything or anyone.
Quote by gooooog
T00DEEPBLUE   Basically the delay pedal doesn’t work. It Powers up the LED comes on but it produces no sound when switched on. I think the Voltage may be lost on transport and I cannot find a schematic for it… not sure why this Forum doesn’t allow pictures to be uploaded too.

It does. You just need to host the images on an image sharing site like imgur.
Quote by gorkyporky
T00DEEPBLUE well yeah. But to really get the feel for those differences, OP would have to actually test the guitars out in real life, and then he wouldnt need us to tell him what is better.

You'd think so, but there's been plenty of cases where newbies still ask this forum for guidance anyway even when they've already tried the guitars in question.
In any case, three of my five points still stand, the pickup config is unusual and cool and can produce a bunch of sounds, its a hardtail and it has some nice hardware that keeps it in tune very well. All things I would like out of any of my guitars. 

That's true enough if those sounds are what OP would prefer to have over a Strat. But they haven't given any indication either way.

The hardtail does make setting it up a bit more convenient though. But setting up a strat bridge isn't exactly hard either. My first guitar had a strat bridge and 5 minutes on google made me out into an expert into setting them up. Its only when you're talking about locking vibratos like Floyds that things start to get convoluted.
I'd go for a set of 12's with a 64 on the low B.
inside4walls
They're basically the same guitar. Just keep whichever one you like the look of more.
Quote by yope
Didn't read that 1st post ,missed it . This is road-rage internet style . The terms setup and fret leveling, fret -replacement  mean different operations done to a guitar no matter what my standards are.

That's got nothing to do with what you said in the post that I quoted earlier. But okay.
Quote by evmac
Quick questions, as I didn't want to make a thread.

I have two solderless EMG 81s and a solderless volume and tone pot. Can I connect both pickups to the 1 volume and 1 tone pot? The guitar is an epiphone korina explorer. 

If you want to utilise the solderless volume and tone pots, you'll also need an EMG connection bus to connect the pickups to the switch and the switch to the pots.