lol i feel ya on that one, but i find it easier than the others to watch.
is it bad that watching Scary Movie, when the cheerleader bitch breaks her own leg, i still cringe? hahaha. i love gore and that stuff, but every once in a while there's a scene that is just hard to watch, no matter how much i love seeing broken bones and sliced skin.
slash_edit: and maybe i just read through all the posts too fast...but no one's mentioned the curb stomp scene from AHX? that's a given.
what Kaban said is a pretty simplified explanation, but essentially correct. don't expect anything anytime soon. i lifted a lot when i was 16 but i'm much bigger now. my chest was regular sized back then but now it puffs out all the time from all the benching i did/do. squats should help a lot, one of the most important workouts and it boosts the muscle growth throughout your body. i wish i had known that years ago...i just started doing squats a month ago lol. though i'm not sure i agree about cutting out cardio like he's kinda implying lol...you need cardio. you don't wanna be big AND slow, you can be big and fast if you work for it.
but i'll stress again, if your genetics say you're a scrawny or lean kid, you're not gonna change that too much. you might get muscle and all, but you're gonna get pumped like Schwarzenegger unless your dad is a bigger guy (not talking bout height here, just pure mass). but there's no reason that even if you can't be HUGE, that you can't be ripped and toned well. which is another reason why cardio is so important.
genetics bro, if it's not in your genes to be big then it's gonna be hard to fight that. also, high weight low reps is the way to go. ALSO, 6 months is nothing, you're still an amateur lifter so you can't expect much at that point, you probably haven't even perfected your technique yet. i've been lifting for like 6 years and still haven't perfected mine. also, if you're thin and lean, it's a lot harder to get bigger than being a bigger guy and turning that fat into muscle. that's my advantage, i'm 5'5" and 194 lbs atm, lot of muscle and also some meat, but turning that extra fat of mine into muscle isn't tough if i make a strict eating plan to go along with my weightlifting routine and STICK to it.
added input: don't buy into the whole muscle building supplements either (i'm not talking about whey protein, that stuff is a standard, and creatine has helped me out as well), you know those things that say you'll build 10 lbs of muslce in a week or two or whatever. if you need supplements to get BIG muscle size, then that just means you'll have to keep buying them to keep your muscles that big. and your body DOES need to rest btw workouts, so don't waste time trying to do more than 4 major lifting days in a week, that's overkill. i usually workout every other day b/c of my busy schedule, but i always spend about an hour and half or so in the gym each workout, starting with 25 min of running to get the blood flowing and burn some stored calories. that works for me, the days in between my muscles get to rest and grow, though running everyday won't hurt you if you know how to keep the stress off your knees from hard impact. and the last thing i'll put in this post: if you want your biceps getting bigger, do NOT work them out more than twice in 7 days! i never had hard biceps until a lil more than a month ago when i started doing 4 x 10 preacher curls at the end of my workout, once at the beginning of the week and once at the end, and then every other workout from there (which meant on an every other day program, once on monday, then again on friday, and so on), and to put as much weight as you can handle. sorry for the wall of text.
ZanasCross, if you're gonna go with a bob-omb, you HAVE to get it in cartoon fashion. The more it looks like it came straight from the screen on your tv while playing the SNES, the better it will be. Simplicity will rule with the artistic fashion of mario characters.
life decision? pshh. i've been buzzing my hair to 1/4" every other week for over a year, i've had thinning hair on top since senior year of high school and i've just accepted that as of now there's no point in trying to hide it, and i'm only 20. I say you made the right decision, get a feel for the super short/bald look, cuz more than likely you'll start balding one day...and better to be able to cope with it now than freak out and have mad comb overs later on in life.
my friends occasionally fuuck with me and make fun of my thinning hair, but girls never say anything bout it, and some even like rubbing my head (no pun ). i just tell them that their day is coming and while they're freaking out, i'll already be worlds ahead in self esteem and security lol. besides, i like waking up and doing nothing to my hair. maximum efficiency.
I guess the artist thought it looked good with the flow going that way, he's the one with the 16 years experience not me lol. Good question though, i didn't think of it honestly b/c i was so stoked with how it looked when he had the stencil on it. Though, he did tell me to look in the mirror and make sure that it looked good first, so it wasn't blindly accepted. Thanks a lot, now i'm gonna be wondering 'what if...' for a while haha, but seriously, if it's less common than most then i've still got no prob with it. As long as it's lookin' bad ass, right? Right.
i've never been charged by the hour either, but they always mention they can do it that way, and they'll guesstimate how long it'll take ahead of time. and like mentioned, they won't say one price and then hike it up later even if it takes a good bit longer than originally planned to do it.
i actually woulda ended up spending a little less if i went with hourly on my outline lol, it was $250 and we discussed the price a few days prior to actually doing it, and he kinda overestimated the time it would take by 45 min or so, he actually did all my outline in 1 hour and 20 minutes i think. and his hourly rate is $120, so yeah, i coulda got it cheaper but i wasn't gonna say, 'hey let me pay you the hourly rate', cuz you don't haggle with artists of course. i figured we'd just assume that i gave him a good tip for the work. he said he didn't expect it to go by so fast, said my skin took the ink really well. plus he didn't stop for any breaks or anything like that, pleasant experience. i think i'll prolly stick with this guy...he's been doing it for 16 years and said he started back in Oklahoma back when it was outlawed and was arrested for it, so that's why he moved. interesting back story haha.
ok i see what you're saying for sure man, but you gotta realize that the kind of work they're doing, they can only do SO slow (IF they were actually trying to squeeze more time out of the session) as it's a lotta work for your skin. if they go TOO slow, then you're gonna be physically drained before they can even finish all that they were supposed to, so in essence they're losing out b/c you're not staying any longer than you originally would have and they've got LESS done. it's kinda hard to drag that kinda art out and really make it worth the slow moving...
there's a lot of professions where they can BS and half ass so that they squeeze more time on the pay, but stuff like tattooing doesn't look like it would work out that way. not to mention, these guys do this stuff for a passion, i'm sure there's a very small percentage that would try to scam people that way...not saying they wouldn't scam...but more than likely they wouldn't even bother scamming with the hourly rate thing. and you're right, get a price first, that's smart. i always asked my artists to give me a price maximum for my other two tats, b/c the very least they can do is tell you, 'well it'll definitely not cost more than x amount of dollars.' and i think when it comes to flash tattoos and not sleeves or pieces that really wrap around body parts and all, then yeah, they're usually pretty good about getting a set price before you even get it done.
The above poster really hit the point, but honestly even "set price" pieces are based on how long the work is going to take and the complexity of the work.
I used to do jewelry and beading work to sell with a buddy of mine. All the classes we took on "art" business, said we should determine price based on materials x an hourly rate. So for the most part, if an artist give you a set price, its going to take into effect how long its going to take to do that art, whether its a piece of jewerly, a mural or body "art"
precisely, it's just like any other working job out there where people give you estimates...they take into account the labor, time and materials needed and then give you the estimate. i just didn't feel it necessary to include that when talking about the 'set pricing' lol.
one of the best things you can do when looking around at different parlors, is tell them ahead of time that you'll have x amount max to spend on the session, usually best to have that cleared up before you go in. who knows, might end up spending an extra hour in there or something, and (assuming you haven't already talked about your max budget at that specific point in time) then your bill is larger and what do you do next? lol. RUN!!!
if you are going to an artist that is charging by the hour, you are getting hosed, most reputable artists charge by the piece. (I worked counter/cleanup/setup/sterilization/DJ at a tattoo/piercing shop for 2 years)
Don't take this offensively, but that's not a fair statement. When artists are working with sleeve work or bigger pieces, there's no way for them to specifically nail the amount of time it'll take, hence why they have an hourly rate as well as set-pricing. The better artists will work with you though to decide which would be a better route to take. My first two tats were set priced, and my new outline was as well, but that's b/c we discussed a price that would encompass plenty of time to finish it and allow for him to add some things as well.
Quote by metacarpi
1) I want to get a half sleeve depicting various games that I've played that have stayed with me over the 15 or so years I've been gaming. I'm not massively great at art though, I can draw half decently, but not great. Would a tattoo artist be prepared to prepare a design based of some crude sketches of what I have in mind couple with source material?
That's definitely not a bad tattoo idea, and yes, the artist will be prepared to do that, it's his job and more than likely the more interesting and unique the idea, the more into it he/she'll get. BUT, realize that their time costs money, so if you want them to draw you up something they'll probably require a deposit (which goes towards your tattoo of course) up front, of usually btw $35-50. B/c they're not gonna wanna half-ass it, they're gonna wanna draw up an actual design that is pretty much ready for being put on your skin. When you're looking for an artist, try to look for one who seems like he's into your idea when you're telling him about it, if they start saying things like, 'yeah and we can throw THIS in there and make it look bad ass! or even do THIS'-then you've found someone who already getting pumped about the idea, and they'll work even harder to make sure your art comes out awing people when they see it. I imagine doing flash art all the time doesn't leave much room for creativity aside from throwing their own colors/shades and bits and pieces added, but not nearly as much freedom of expression as custom work like what you want.
Oh, and it's been months since i've posted here, but just got my half sleeve started a couple days ago, so pics are ensuing.
a lil more than half of it was painful...but as usual it's the kinda pain that you enjoy while getting tatted up
i can't wait to go back for the black/shading, even more stoked for when i go for the coloring
slash_edit: and for anyone who's interested, the actual koi fish was from a flash, as it was pretty much the style and angle of koi i wanted, but my artist redrew his own waves and threw cherry blossoms in there at my request, as well as the wind bars and a couple wind spirals that i'm not sure if you can see in the pics as they're coming up the under side of my arm.
speaking from personal exp. in the university setting, a small valve combo with no master volume is going to be hard to get all the tones you want, you're better off with a good quality modeler/SS amp. i love my Randall RM50 but it has a master volume and all the gain on tap i need for most applications even in dorm room setting. a 5 watt valve will need more volume to get that sweet spot, since most don't even have master volumes. i tried both my blackheart little giant as well as my RM50, and i much preferred the RM50 b/c it didn't need any pedals to get a nice saturated hard rock or light metal tone, you'll prolly find a low watt valve lacking. not knocking low watters at all, but for a dorm room, unless all you're playing is blues and classic rock (i mean hardly any hard rock gain) you're not gonna be satisfied for long.
V847a is a good decent wah, for clean to mid gain, but lacks in the high gain, the actual wah becomes less noticeable with higher notes as well. i found that the dimebag CFH wah is actually pretty great at all styles, from very clean to high gain. and it retains good wah sweep even higher up on the frets. the dunlop 535Q is essentially the same, but without a boost (i never use the boost) and without the side trim pots for tweaking (these are VERY handy). i'd suggest the Dime CFH wah for all styles, if you're staying under $150.
well if you wanna save money and get a combo, you'd prolly be BEST off with a Line6 Vetta and get the big footswitch thing with it, or get a Flextone. i'd prefer the MTS amp myself, not just out of being biased but b/c i prefer valve tone, but these amps are pretty good at getting really close to it.
Quote by cosmicstar
The thing with modelers is that it's hard to be able to change things around quickly without going to an entirely different sound (unless I'm just dumb.)
that's what the footswitches are for, setting a bunch of presets for channel switching and effects switching, so you can switch on the fly. problem solved. no excuse not to get a modeler if that's your main beef
you should go to the randall mts forums and go to the classifieds, you should be able to find an RM50 and a couple modules to get you started for around 800 (not including shipping), so you might have to spend around 900 or maybe even a tad more (or maybe even less, it's very possible), but TRUST me, the versatility is there. all tube, swappable preamp modules, endless possibilities. and they take pedals perfectly well.
otherwise, Line 6 Vetta or Flextone should be easy to attain in that price range, they're modeling but do it amazingly, and pedals aren't necessary with all the great quality built in effects. don't underestimate these amps.
so i haven't made an appearance in my favorite thread in a while, so i'm back to show my immense love for GnR. old AND new, of course. listened to CD album last night in the worst rain i've ever driven in, a 40 minute trip took me over an hour it was so bad, so i searched through all the GnR albums on my iTouch and let those songs rip. i'm pretty pumped for them to (eventually) come to the states and tour-assuming all goes well. i'll prolly do whatever it takes to grab a ticket if they come to NC.
must say, just got used to Axl's new look in the past year or so, and now he's finally getting a lil bit of old and new school hybrid going on lol, and it's quite a good look on him. i remember someone posted something about his fad with hats now...i think we should all be glad that Axl is wise enough to know that he shouldn't be trying to pull off spandex shorts with a camo jacket anymore lol...he's got a good look that shows he knows how to keep style without trying to look like he's afraid of not being in his 20s anymore.
i'm hoping GnR gets on a good role with the current tour and within a couple years maybe we'll have another album in the works-as impossible as that seems with most others who know anything about GnR, i'm sure the current lineup is so solid now that they'd be comfortable getting new material out. though i still wouldn't complain if there was an Illusion's member line up again (with Izzy of course, though i still love Gilby).
alright guys, two JJ 6L6 power valves, about 5 hours of play on them, for sale only. no trades...as there isn't really anything worth trading at this price range lol, nor do i want a trade really. they will be contained in EL34 valve boxes, but i assure you they are 6L6s. nothing wrong with them at all, i just switched my amp's power section over to EL34s last year and don't need these anymore. they're collecting dust and i hate to seem them not in the amp of someone who needs em!!
both (that's right, a set of TWO) for $15 plus shipping. US only please. these are $19 a piece brand new on dougstubes.com, which is where i bought them, so i can assure you that this is a good price.
please don't ask to see pics (not sure why you really need to see pics of valves exactly...but whatever) if you're not serious about buying, i want these gone!! thanks for looking guys. PAYPAL only .
i had this problem with my old G-400, and even ran across it a week or two ago with my AL-3000. with my SG i had to replace the volume pots, they were just really crappy stock ones, and that fixed the problem immediately. but it could also be the switch not having a proper connection, like already mentioned. if you hear a scratchy sound when you turn your knobs, it's like that it's the pot that needs replacing, if not, then check for bad solder joint....i actually need to do this asap lol.
i didn't know people actually paid much money for amp simulations for their computers...i mean i get why you would...but if you spent like 250 or more for some pretty kick ass tones, and then couldn't play live with it...i guess i just can't get past the last part lol. i could see how it wouldn't really hinder recording since most recording these days is done on computers.
anyway, find a hot rodded plexi or JCM800 model, there's a good starting point.
the majority of what you play uses marshall crunch tones, so all those added models wouldn't be of much use other than just playin' around. stick with a marshall voiced amp and OD pedal, there's plenty to choose from. i'm sure the peavey vypyr is a jack of all trades and master of none style amp, so you'll do a lotta tones good, but you won't NAIL any if you know what i mean.
for your styles, you'd be better off nailing the marshall tone and being somewhat close on a couple rarer styles. don't get that peavey...i'm not saying it's low end, but you could get a really good higher quality amp for that. JCM800 with OD pedal is the way to go, you might not even really NEED an OD pedal at first, just get a JCM800 combo (two channel one if possible, so you have a lil more versatility).
i wish i had played a vintage modern by now so i could recommend it as well...but damn shop people won't let me plug into it without being seriously interested in purchasing it that day...what a jip...
anyway, i hear great things about that amp, and i never even THOUGHT of using a volume pedal or something on a single channel amp for cleaning up the gain and getting instant clean without rolling your volume knob down on the guitar...that's a great idea...look into it bro...if you love the sound of the amp, don't hold back. if it sounds great and you love it, then it's just an added bonus that it'll retain most it's value being a (good) marshall.
turn the gain down and master up. also try it with all knobs at 12 and use your mxr eq to mold the tone. the bass, treble, presence and gain settings all seem kind of high to me. turning the gain down will sacrifice some sustain, but that might have to do with your guitar too... adding too much gain will muddy everything up
i definitely suggest AGAINST using the MXR for the majority of your EQ'ing. this should be used to accentuate your already desired tone, not be the primary molding of it. the way you're supposed to do it is to EQ your amp so that you getting the sound closest to what you want, THEN use the EQ to further dial in your desired tone carefully.
also, it wouldn't hurt to try the EQ straight in front of your amp either, it won't sound exactly the same as putting it in the FX loop, it may be better, may be worse, but i know I'D stick it in the front. at this point it wouldn't hurt to try all these options.
these wahs are a lil harder to turn on/off than most crybaby style wahs, you just gotta lean hard on it til you hear it click. the LED light on the back is really helpful in this way. i'm starting to wonder if i should put some kind of piece of rubber or something under the part that hits the switch, so that you don't have to press as far down.