There have been some solid and viable solutions mentioned so far but I'd add the suggestion of getting a small tube amp (say 5-10w) that would still be relatively quiet when cranked but give you that unique cranked tube sound. It's well known that Jimmy Page used this approach on the early Zeppelin albums and the proof is in the pudding there as far as the sound is concerned.
A 5-10 watt valve amp is not a quiet beast when cranked
Definitely a good place to start, the tubes can make it sound brand new. Best bet is to get a matched set for the power valves, most companies do this and it means you don't have to worry about biasing. The preamps can be mixed and matched. Usually the first one is the stock clean tone, then the second adds a gain stage and I can't remember what the third one is lol
I'm using Mozilla FireFox browser and I keep getting popup windows and tabs on everything from hookup websites to jewelry stores and anti-virus programs. I have ad-blocker Plus and even pop up filter. But I don't understand why this is still happening. If anyone can help me out I would be grateful. These popups occur when I click a link to a website like youtube and even when I click the very box I'm typing in. It's very frustrating. Anybody know what's causing this?
After running something like malware bytes go to the add ons bit on FF and look for adblock plus, works a treat.
^ nah it doesn't. it has the 12bh7 in push-pull, which i guess does make it more like a bigger amp than most low wattage single enders, but at the same time for the same price you can just get a bigger amp. considering that even 5 watts tube is too loud to crank for most in a home situation.
Wasn't the Jackson DKMGT's "turbocharger" a 20db gain anyways or was it 25db like the Jackson firestorm series of dinkies? The firestorm was made in collaboration with Seymour Duncan.
but yeah the DKMGT is a fantastic used guitar. Made in Japan and they are affordable. Think it was the first green guitar I bought haha. But still shop around and see. Winter namm is almost here. Ask yourself which tone are you not getting that you want if anything.
After Burner they called it, loved that thing and plan on fitting one to my sl3. The newer ones are all active pups instead which is a shame.
Not sure on the sl2 but I have the sl3 jap soloist and it's pretty hard to beat, such a super smooth comfortable beast of a guitar. It can do anything from pop through blues to heavy metal. The floyd seems to be on par with the schaller model too, got that in another guitar.
Yeh it's normal, you can get fret polishing kits that can smooth it out or just play it a lot to bed it in. I think it's either dunlop or planet waves that do the kits, probably others but that's the ones that spring to mind.
Buy a set for the sound you want i.e. you can have more gain or headroom and buy the outputs as a matched set whether it's duo or a quad, they're already matched in their values so don't need any biasing.
I just got a quad set of the JJ power valves from hot rox and they sound great, really transformed the amp.
I use a blackstar HT5R and a peavey classic 50 212 both at bedroom levels. Wattage can be deceiving because you tend to think a high wattage amp will be to loud but most play well at lower volumes too.
Wait so do I have an audio taper pot or a linear pot then? If it makes any difference, the tone pot sounds perfectly normal, so I don't think both pots are the same (and I'm pretty sure this isn't standard, I don't think any of my other guitars have different type pots)
Should do, A pots for volume and B pots for tone, that's the usual set up with most electrics.
I'm not sure on the booster you're wanting to use but on the jackson one the pot wasn't a volume pot for the guitar but dedicated to how much boost you got so it couldn't be used as a volume. The pot would fit fine in any existing hole you have but it just depends on how that particular boost works and whether you mind not being able to turn the volume up and down.
The one I'm referring to is usually called an after burner
Blackstar HT5R, loads of gain, goes pretty dam loud too if you need it, has emulated outputs for recording, input for a CD player to play along to, effects loop for pedals etc etc and it uses valves for it's sound.
Not sure exactly what you'd need to do it but to get the full humbucker sound the red and white wires need to be connected to each other and disconnected from everything else. I'm to tired to even think how you'd go about it that's what needs to happen.
2nd finger on the E bass string at an angle so it mutes the A string then 3rd and 4th fingers on the B and (High) E strings. Makes a nice big sound and is easy to play hard. You can also just move the 2nd finger across to the A string and mute the D string to make a nice big C chord.
Just a simple idea to get around the problem, it's how I generally play them these days after messing around for about 20 years. You pick up little tricks as you go.
The standard is that the screws go to the out side so if it's in the bridge the screw heads on the pup sit towards the bridge and if it's a neck pup the screw heads face towards the neck. That's the standard fitment for seymour duncans but do what you fancy. Personally I'd go the way they're meant so it's W/B B/W. Don't know why but that's how I think it looks best and probably why they're designed that way and how it's always been as far as I know lol.
Try it and then make the call, the idea is that trem buckers are designed to have more bass etc to compensate for the floating trem. Not sure the string spacing matters much, I fitted a dimarzio to a guitar with a floyd and the string spacing are wrong, sounded fine, just didn't like the aesthetics.
It's slimmer from front to back for sure, doing a rough measurement I'd say about 21.5mm at the nut and about 22.5mm up the neck. I'm having to clamp my calliper over the strings then try and take out the string thickness lol.
I measure about 42mm across at the nut and about 56mm at the 22nd fret too.
I wouldn't class it as snobby to want a guitar to stay in tune when it's used as it's meant to be lol.
As above though, base plate and studs are where the problem lies. If the rest of the guitar is good as in feels nice etc then I would consider upgrading to a proper schaller or similar, often the guitar is cheap because of these cheap parts being used but otherwise they can often be very good in build.
Having just picked up a vintage V100 second hand I'd have to say the QC is fantastic, I've had genuine LP's, a special and standard and I honestly prefer this vintage! I know, mad but it's true. The neck is nicer for me.
Anyway just popped in a set of seymour duncan custom 59's, this thing is superb, it's really the icing on the cake so to speak.
I got mine for a £120 UK (the guitar) UK price is about £260 new.
I was recently watching phil x, he has this AB box that also has a thing to reverse polarity (I think that's right) so you can run both amps at the same time with both speakers moving in the right direction, in phase.
Vintage V100? Cracking guitar and super cheap. You could get one and swap out the pickups for some seymours and still be in pocket. Better than the epi stuff anyway, really well built since trev joined the club.
Sounds bad for a soloist (presuming that's what it was), my experience of the sl1 was it was just pure creamy smooth in the hand, ebony board, no bindings. I have the sl3 jap soloist and it's more or less the same, not quite as smooth and creamy but not far away and definitely smoother than the ibanez in the same price range. Tried quite a few of them.
The green wire on GFS pups is the hot wire and the black is a ground. Way to many people make the mistake of mixing these 2 wires up on GFS pups. It is the same color code as SD's and you can use their wire charts but you just have to remember to swap the black and green around.
My bad, it was the mention of the seymour duncan hot rails, doh! Mind you it'll still work, just the power will go the other direction through the coils lol
5 wires, green, black, red, white and braided earth, red and white join together and tape them up out the way, black goes to the selector switch and the green and the earth go to earth, the back of one of the volume or tone pots is fine.