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The neck may be OK. You seem to be describing a slight disparity in the relief measurement of the low E compared to the high E. The bass side having more relief is common, likely due to higher string tension on the bass side. A slight difference here doesn’t necessarily indicate a neck twist. A slightly twisted neck does not necessarily force the use of an unacceptable amount of relief.

If you follow conventional relief logic, the heavier strings could use a bit more relief than the lighter ones. For example, you could set the truss rod for what you consider acceptable relief on the bass side and end up with a dead-straight neck on the treble side. The guitar may play great that way with little or no rattle. Or you could set the relief for the high E and end up a little more relief that you would like on the bass side but still the guitar may play just fine.

With an unfamiliar guitar, I set the neck nearly dead straight with just a barely detectable amount of relief on the high E – and the low E will usually end up with a bit more. Look at it as a straight neck with the least amount of relief as insurance against back bow, which is a bad thing. If it plays fine, I leave it. If there’s too much rattle that I can attribute to relief, I start adding some. Level frets are important and also when judging relief, try fretting at the 1st fret – and a high fret close to wherever the neck meets the body (instead of 1st and 24th).
Nice looking guitar. Looks like you've done a fine job. Since you asked for suggestions for a cavity cover, here's how I've made some missing ones. I have the tools and ability (as you probably do) to work with hard sheet plastic/pick guard material. However, I've used softer plastics that can be cut with serrated scissors or other cutters without cracking or breaking. It's just faster, easier and doesn’t produce a lot of plastic dust.

Make a template from clear plastic sheet. You can use a sheet protector but something a bit thicker like scrap blister pack material is even better. Tape it to the back of the guitar and since it's clear, you can just follow the cavity recess with a fine marker, using a straight edge to mark any straight sides, free-handing any curved corners. Cut it out and trim it to fit properly into the recess (if there is a recess). Now mark the holes to match the existing holes in the wood. Remove the template and drill out the holes in the plastic sheet. You've just made a clear plastic cavity cover but it's actually your pattern.

Try to find a small sheet of ABS plastic in the desired color and thickness. ABS has sufficient stiffness and a similar sheen to harder plastics but has enough "give" to allow cutting with scissors. Use your template, drill and countersink holes to accommodate oval-head pick guard screws. The edges can be neatened up with a file or sanding block. If you can't find ABS or don't want to order it from a plastics supplier, just look around for other sources of "unbreakable" plastic sheet. Cheap "Rubbermaid" types of containers or trash bins from the dollar store will work if thick and stiff enough but I like the ABS better because it looks and feels almost like hard plastic and doesn’t distort much whe you screw it down tight.
I don't have many gear photos but I did manage to pose two Musicmans together.
The Altec speakers in the 2x10 Tremolux cabinet are supposed to be rare and pricey.
They do sound good with this amp.



No part of the Wandre Rock Ovel looks good.
That thing is badass. Get it and don't take shit from anyone for having a Kahler on a vintage strat. If it plays and sounds amazing, it'll be the ultimate FU to vintage snobbery.
The guys on the HM Strat Forum are helpful. It may take a while to get an answer -or there's a good possibility that the answer is already there.
http://www.heavymetalstrat.com/
Pulling up then letting it return naturally, it’s sharp and out of tune - correct? Give the bar a bump down and then let it return up naturally and its back in tune- right? Common problem. If it’s cheaper unit, you may just have to deal with it but lubricating the pivot points with something like Stew-Mac’s guitar grease might help. If the pivot posts appear really worn and grooved at the contact points, replacing the posts will help. With a quality unit that’s badly worn, you may want to replace the posts and sharpen the knife edges (pivot points on the trem plate). Here’s a really good how-to article. I’ve done it but it does take the right tools and a practiced touch.

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/sharpening.htm
My Heritage has pups with two mounting holes per side. The rings are original from 1986 and to me, it appears that Heritage just used standard rings and drilled two extra holes per side, leaving the middle hole open on each side. The empty holes are small and never looked out of place to me. If everthing else lines up, save money and go for the generic rings. If vintage value is a concern, just save the original rings.
This Epi LP Special is marked “Limited Edition Custom Shop”. One thing I noticed is the Grovers are stamped “Grover” but I think they appear on non-CS Epis also. The ones on my Broadway look like real Grovers but are not marked as such.

I think the above comments about the Custom Shops having different finishes are accurate. This one is marked as a factory 2nd because Epiphone was going for a particular color - but screwed it up somehow. It came out as high-gloss translucent silver-white which may be one of a kind and may actually look kinda cool.

I won this LP Special in an eBay auction and I’m expecting delivery in two or three days. I’ve wanted a Special for awhile and with all of the Gibson closeouts, I nearly pulled the trigger several times on the Gibby. But I’m a P90 virgin I thought this might be cheap introduction to soap bar pickups. As long as it plays and sounds as good as the seller says, it’ll be my Special.


Quote by gregs1020
i win
a real superstrat is something you build out of parts.


Or something that says "Strat" right on the headstock in a cheesy graffiti font with a bright pink slash added for 1980's cheese.
I got a new (actually re-worked) amp last night from a well-known amp guroo and this is the first guitar I tried because of it's versatility and playability.

You just need to suppress vibration, right? Why not use a pad under the springs, stuck to the bottom of the route, just thick enough to touch the springs? You may want to try a resiliant but dense foam, something like mouse pad foam, sliced to the correct thickness. You could probably get away with a thin strip just contacting the middle of the springs.
Some fender amps require a 2-button footswitch with a mono ¼” plug. With only two conductors, they depend on switching diodes (in the pedal) to operate the two separate functions. Some amps don’t come with a footswitch and Fender charges about $40 for these – and the ones with channel/drive won’t work with their amps that require channel/effects. If you have an old 2-button switch around you may only need maybe five bucks worth of diodes and a mono plug to replace the stereo plug.

I found this diagram on the web and it works like a charm. I felt kind of bad about drilling holes for the LEDs in the old Musicman pedal but I have two of them and the other one isn’t missing the Musicman logo. I even re-used the old cord. The only new parts are 2 diodes, 2 LEDs and the plug.



OK thanks. I decided to wait to try one. No large Gibson dealers here in the boonies but I may be in NJ next weekend. GC may match the MF price-even for a 1-day sale.
I've owned about 30 electric and acoustic guitars over the years but never a real Gibson. Always wanted one-especially an SG in a finish other than cherry, just to be a bit different. I like the cream and the natural burst that MF is selling for $999.99. Any experience with these particular limited editions? Pickups OK? What about the baked maple board? I'm not too concerned about retaining resale value.

Also, any experience with these MF one-day sales? Really necessary to pull the trigger today to get the extra $199 off? Even if it's returnable, I hate making these snap decisions and not being able to play the instrument!

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/gibson-sg-standard-limited-electric-guitar/h78031000004000?src=3WWRWXGP&gclid=CMCP68_jsrMCFcuZ4AodlFIADw
Quote by griffin888
I think Paradise Lost is their best work personally.

Cool. Thanks. Since everyone agreed on Paradise Lost, I ordered it today.
Thanks for the suggestions. It may turn out that the hide I ordered is softer than I expected but still thick enough for a good strap. If so, it may be too soft to contour and burnish the edges, then the raw edges would be pretty much like the original and still acceptable. As for the white lacing, I have not found 1/4" wide leather reasonably priced yet but I think I will eventually.
Quote by chuck knuckles
My lvl 80 Troll Rogue on the Illidan Realm of World of Warcraft is a lvl 450 Leatherworker. Sadly, I am not


That's Hilarious. When I googled leather craft, the last thing I expected to be near the top of my search results was an article on making midevil garb for fantasy role players who like to meet in municiple parks and whack each other with foam rubber weapons. Article was not at all helpful.
Anyone here know how to work with leather? From what little work I've done, I know it's difficult to get pro results. I searched the web but found little help. I guess I could buy a book but this is just a quick one-off project. The leather will the fairly thick (1/8") and about as stiff as sturdy belt. It involves making long, straight cuts to make leather straps about 3 inches wide. I guess it's the hardness and toughness (a bit stiffer than the strap I'm trying to copy) of this hide that makes me apprehensive.

I want to copy my Bobby Lee strap. It's a comfortable, intelligent design. I like the way the length adjusts by re-lacing the end pieces. The method is stronger than it looks and the strap feels like a one-piece unit once you settle on a length. Of course Bobby Lee has a huge selection but no all leather models in their online catalog - so I guess they don't make this anymore. Also, I want one in Black with white lacing so I guess I'll try to make one. I may play around with the lacing design to give it a different look.

1) The hide section I ordered is almost 4 feet long and cuts will be full length. Cuts must be dead-straight with no slanted slices (to look like a pro job). What's the best way to accomplish this?

2) Looking edge-on at a good quality belt, the edges don't look like raw, straight cuts. They appear to be blended in with softer corners and a bit slicker, smoother and perhaps even shinier than the top grain. Shiny isn't important but the edges should look "finished". This is the look I'm going for. What may be the best way to accomplish this? Can hard leather edges be sanded and buffed like wood?

3) The piece of hide I ordered is dyed black so I assume the cut edges will require dye as well? What may be the best product for this and are there any methods of blending it in to match? Should this be the last step?

Thanks for any advice!

Thanks all for the suggestions. Iconoclast was the one I almost got the other day. Now I have 3 more in my cart and will get at least 2.
Recommend me a Symphony X CD. Sampled these guys and almost pushed the button on Amazon but I think their albums need to be appreciated in their entirety. So I figured I would get some opinions. Thanks!
Quote by Roc8995
It would have to be the MIA model. Retail on the MIM ones is 500, and they're still available in stores. You'd have to be especially insane to think you could get 750 for one.


Q. What is the difference between an American Tele and a Mexican Tele?
A. Where the Mexican was standing when he made it.
You can use it to polish your knob but try to keep it off of your nut and away from your input.
I built a cabinet that I use for testing. messing around with - and sometimes as an extension cab. There's a 15" bass speaker and a 12" speaker for guitar. I ran all four speaker wires through a hole in the back of the cab, then into a junction box with two jacks and a switch. Jack 1 for speaker 1 only, jack 2 for speaker 2 only. Throw the switch to combine the two - and if required, change around some wire nuts to change from series to parallel for the combined pair.

I would like to get rid of the box, do away the switch and wire nuts - and just install four jacks on the cabinet like so:

Input 1 Spkr 1 (8 ohms)
Input 2 Spkr 2 (8 ohms)
Input 3 Spkrs 1&2 (4 ohms)
Input 4 Spkrs 1&2 (16 ohms)

Can this be done without adding any switches and what would the wiring diagram look like?
If it came down to needing switches, I'd rather use switched inputs instead - so if this is possible, what would that look like?

Thanks
Quote by Cathbard
That's a rather odd schematic. Anyway to answer your questions


Thanks Cathbard, I'll probably end up doing this. I did notice an unsoldered and taped off green wire and wondered if that was a half-assed attempt at halving the power output so I might try that too.
Quote by Arby911
That is my line, step off!!

I'll pay postage, because I'm a nice guy and will dispose of it properly!!


I'm not shipping. Too lazy. I put this rig together for a potential buyer yesterday and demo'ed it. Told him $300 for the ampeg stack (including even more 15" speakers) - or $425 with the u-1235 thrown in. He said for me to sell it if I can and he'd try to sell some stuff and then decide. The B25 makes a monster guitar amp - more so than a bass amp imo and sounded glorious with the garage doors open and the sounds echoing off the neighbor's houses. Can't believe he didn't jump on it.



OK guys I bumped this because I've nearly convinced myself to go ahead with this. Spent some time with the amp this weekend and it sounds pretty damn good except volume is down a lot from what I'd expect from a 40 or 50 watt. From another hobby I've done for years, I have good soldering skills right down to tiny board level stuff. One weakness is capacitors, indentifying the different types, values and how they're designated on the actual component. I can use a multimeter but am weak with schematics and indentifying test points. So a few questions please.

1) Read an article on this amp (link below) where the guy fixed hissed and low output. I have no hiss at all - but his volume problem was the bias cap. I may try this first before spending too much-or have turn out to be a bad transformer. So which one, on the schematic (attached) would be the bias cap?
http://www.rru.com/~meo/Guitar/Amps/U-1235/

2) For a complete re-cap (and the two diodes mentioned in the article) would someone here be able to make me a parts list so I can just order? Even possible from just the pics and schematic? Too much to ask?

3) It's a bass amp and to me, it sounds a bit dark for guitar. It's almost OK with the "high" input and "sharp" switch on. The other work might help-but if not, any suggestions to brighten it up? Maybe change some of the cap or resistor values in that deep/sharp circuit?

4) From the same place I got the stash of NOS MIJ Tubes, I also have huge collections of MIJ components from the late 60s or early 70s. I have nothing on hand like the big filter caps I'll need - but everything else (resistors, diodes, capacitors) are all new and packaged for a Panasonic tech of that era. If I am able to spend some time and carefully ID and match some of these components, these old ones should all be trustworthy except for the cylindrical-shaped caps, correct? Would I even have to replace the disc-shaped ceramics in the amp?

I've watched some videos and I sort get it - but if I get this far - and get the power tubes, I'll probably ask for help biasing.

Thanks for the help.
Quote by Spaztikko
IDK about what gibson, haha.

My post is an IBANEZ 1981 Studio 370. Its currently being sold for only 500 new zealand.
If someone has 500 bucks, lucky them.


I have a 1979 or 80 Studio model and except for the finish, it's nearly identical. But still when I saw this I was thinking low-end "Musician" series due to the fancier finish. Some claim that all-mahogany guitars are the most resonant of all solid bodies. Being all solid hog, set neck, big body and big headstock, it has a bit more volume unplugged than any other solid guitar I've owned - and it's the one I grab for noodleing unplugged.
Quote by stepchildusmc
oh, i dunno Mars... that looks like a great deal ! ya gotta buy it, it was played when man landed on the moon and your Mars ! if you don't buy it, he'll just shove it in Uranus !


Well it does say "or best offer" but iirc that year 2525 song was crappy tune that probably didn't even make $250k.
Quote by patticake
gimmick. they're just set up low, and you can get that done on any guitar for $60 or less.


Thanks patticake. Then I guess I won't buy this one for $252,500

http://compare.ebay.com/like/190419479900?var=lv&var=sbar
Quote by FireFromTheVoid
I`ve never heard of zager but I think its funny their first artist is steven seagal.


Steve's got one of everything so of course he has a Zager. Probably needs all of the help he can get so he could be a good endorser for Zager easy-play.
http://www.zagerguitar.com/?event=public.store.guitars.list

There’s usually a few Zager–Modified guitars on evilBay and they seem reasonable. If the guy has a point, the easy-play system could be the answer for those who find the acoustic difficult to articulate. I’m not so interested in the Zager Customs because at these prices, they may be cheaper instruments just built or made to play well. But I’m somewhat curious about a higher–end Zager-modified acoustic. Perhaps a Taylor like I’ve seen on the bay. Maybe even having my Taylor modified.

Has anyone tried the easy-play system? Anyone know exactly what his mods are? I’m good at setups and could probably get close to his mods just to try it if I knew more about them. Maybe do them on my Yamaha first in case I mess up. I was sure this was a gimmick–or it would compromise tone until I watched some of the videos and read testimonials. Now I’m somewhat convinced but still very skeptical. What do you think?
Ok cool thanks for the replies. I realized after I poated that the black could just be another layer.
I’m not big on figured tops on solid bodies but this looks real good to me. Looks like the top is actually inlaid to the body wood instead of just being layered on.
Is that what it is - or is it just thin top wood? If so, would it be something that is doable for someone with all of the tools and decent wood working skills? Maybe buy a body and inlay the top?

Seems like one could buy just 1/8” or 1/4” hardwood and that black line may disguise slight imperfections. I like the looks of that line too and it seems like you could easily make chambers if desired.

Thanks for the responses. The preamp tubes have already been replaced with all 12AX7 NOS Panasonic tubes. I have a stash of these but no spare 6L6 tubes. I guess I could put the power tubes from the HRD in this and get something new for the Fender, then see if this amp brightens up.
Univox, probably 1970 U-1235 bass amp has a “Sharp” Switch (like a bright switch) and with that on – and the treble up, it still sounds way dark for guitar. I’m pretty sure it’s the tubes, especially the 6L6 power tubes. They’re mis-matched and likely weak. The amp produces no hum or hiss so I believe the other internal components are all OK. Tubes are: 12AU7 (2), 12AX7 (1) and 6L6GC (2).

Is this worth fixing? Will it ever sound good for guitar?




Free concerts. One of the best was Phil Lesh and friends. Warren Haynes and Derek Trucks were with him. Wife worked for an auditorium and I went to dozens of concerts for free while she worked. She has met everyone from Dylan to Foo Fighters, even had dinner with Phil and his family. I only got to meet Weird Al.
Since it's Musician's friend, can't play before buying. They do have a good return policy but the best option may to be play it at a local dealer. This particular dealer matches MF's prices ad even beats them by a bit to make up for the state sales tax.

I just read the the reviews on the same page. I didn't think MF would keep bad reviews on one of their products but a couple of them are really bad. I remember a few years ago when the faded satin finished ones came out. They were about $700 (with a bag instead of a case- the new one comes with a hard case that I don't care too much about) from the same local store and I always wished I had checked them out back then. Used may be another option.
I think I want this exact guitar in the same color. When you read the specs - ebony, nitro finish, etc. - MF's price ($940) seems like a great deal and it may be a one-day sale with an extra $361 off?. At least it doesn't have that synthenthic fretboard that Gibson is now using.

Anyone have one? Opinions? Horror stories?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/gibson-les-paul-junior-special-double-cutaway-electric-guitar
I’ve been playing this Heritage guitar for several years with much missing finish on the neck. The bare wood feels good but not great – I think it’s the difference in feel between the finished and unfinished sections. It’s a 1986 that I’ve owned for most of its life and about five years ago some of the lacquer starting bubbling and splitting which would leave sharp edges. For awhile I just dealt with these splits as they appeared but then I decided to lift up all of the loose finish with tape stuck to the entire neck then pulling up all of the loose spots. Then I scraped the rest of the loose finish with a credit card, then I lightly sanded and steel-woolled the entire neck.

I thought about all of my options. Even called Heritage who said they could fix it but may not be cheap. It’s not just player wear so there’s something weird going on with the neck. Either the mahogany was not prepared correctly when new or something got underneath the finish. I’m confident that the remainder of the finish is stuck on as tight as it can be and will never cause me any more trouble, so I’m thinking about addressing just the bare spots.

I don’t really care about matching the transparent reddish color – but I’m not opposed to buying the tint if it would work just as well. How would work if I:

1) Cleaned the bare spots with (please recommend a solvent and method) to be sure there are no oils or contaminants.

2) Brush on a nitro-compatible primer or sanding sealer (please recommend a type). Also, would brushing even work – or should I mask and spray? Then sand to mach the level of the new finish to the old finish.

3) I think the final finish would have to be nitro lacquer, either tinted – or not. If I’m going to finals sand anyway, can I brush it on – or should I mask and spray?

4) Do I even need primer or sealer? The bare spots are definitely raw wood and the chunks that lifted up looked liked just transparent tinted lacquer but I could be wrong.

Thanks for any advice.


Nice find. I love those old ESPs.