Try some humbucker sized P90s. I have a Les Paul with P90s and they really fit the guitar. They have a lot off clarity and bite like a single coil, but they handle distortion like a humbucker.

The only downside, as far as im concerned, is the 60 cycle hum. If you can stand that, though, P90s are great pickups for every style except high gain, detuned metal.

GFS makes a good variety of P90 sized humbuckers for a great price (I reccomend the Mean 90s), but a lot of companies like Seymour Duncan, Gibson, and Lollar make them if you're willing to spend the extra cash.
Be sure to check out the Danelectro Cool Cat chorus. It's probably the best bang-for-your-buck chorus out there. I know a guy who uses it in his "B" rig in place of his usual TC chorus.
I was wondering if it was possible to wire up my strat with 1 master volume, 1 master tone, and use the 3rd knob to blend in the middle pickup in series to get humbucker sounds in the bridge and neck positions. If it is possible, how would I go about wiring this up?
Maybe you should just buy your regular guitar strings and get the B string seperately
Quote by Offworld92
Roland JC120, Musicman HD130, Peavey Classic Chorus 212. They're all basically the same amp. I think the MM and Peavey are hybrids. Same idea though.

Those are all completely different sounding amps. And the Peavey Classic chorus is all SS, only the HD130 is a hybrid amp. I've heard the Peavey CC212 being called the poor man's JC120 before, but I don't think they sound the same at all. It's like comparing a Bassman, a JTM45 and a Bassmaster.
Quote by 311ZOSOVHJH
It's stereo amp, and I don't think it's tube. However, for a stereo amp, it is very good. Don't plug guitar into it; just use it as hi-fi if it works.

My sides
Quote by Spambot_2
For that money + shipping I can send you an almost new v30 in a week

Digging a bit I found v30s for that kinda money myself, but the best bang for the buck I found was for G12T75 - yesterday I bought one for £33 + £7 shipping.

Anyway WGS makes a nice v30 copy, don't really remember how that's called but it goes for something like $70/80 new.

This. The G12t75 gets a lot of hate that I don't understand. They're great punchy speakers with a lot of clairity even when you drive them.

Here's a good video that runs compares the two.
Quote by Robbgnarly
Show me a low wattage alternative to the Bogner Uberschall, Soldano SLO, Laney VH100r, Marshall JCM800, Peavey JSX, Mesa Mark series, Splawn Nitro, Diezel VH4, Hiwatt. I can go on, do you want me to?

Any one of these preamps into a Randall RM20 head with a good cab. You can swap out the power amp tubes for any variant you want to get closer to the sound you're trying to acheive.

Quote by Robbgnarly
Fact is just because you deem it overkill to many it is not and they are footing the bill not you

It has nothing to do with money, just common sense. I have a Mark III and live in an apartment. I can use it, but only with the volume between 0-2. Any louder, and neighbours complain. I got the amp for live shows because I practice with my band regularly and gig every so often. I wouldn't have it if I didn't need the headroom and separate channels for that application.

Before I got the Mesa, I had an Egnater Rebel 20 that I used for practicing/shows with the band. Because of some of the features it had, it was easier to work with in an appartment. If I didn't need the separate channel and the added headroom for some of the stuff I was doing with the band, I wouldn't have gotten the Mesa.

I can get the same kind of sounds of of both amps. Not 100%, flawlessly identical tones, but in the same ballpark of the sounds I'm looking for, and it's no contest which one is better for playing at home. If I wasn't jamming/gigging, it'd be stupid of me to keep the Mesa when I could sell it, and get a setup that's more suited to my needs.
Blackstar 3
Bugera 4 Hurt
Egnater 13 Heal

Fender 12
Jet City 14
Laney 10
Line Six 9
Marshall 11
Orange 10
Peavey 14
Traynor 11
Vox 10
Quote by Robbgnarly
WTF are you smoking?
Some amp are only available as 100 watt amps.

No you don't need the power most likely but it's the only way to get some sounds

Give me an example of a sound you just cannot get without a 100 watt amp. I mean, Jimmy Page got some of his biggest tones from tiny 5-15 watt combos in the studio. Layla was recorded with a Champ. Most metal guys are getting their tones from preamps going into some cabinet modeller going right into the soundboard/PA.

IMO, 95% of people wouldn't be able to tell the difference between solid state and tube if they just heard it, so it's laughable to say that you can't approximate this one certain sound without this one particular amp. It's asinine and it's been a marketing gimmick that amp companies have been using for years to get people to buy stupidly unuseable amps for home use or any gig thats not in a stadium.

I'm not saying that you can sound like a Plexi stack with a 1x10 solid state combo from Korea, but you can get close the sound of a 100 watt amp out of a decent 20-30 watt amp with a good cab. Maybe not the feeling of having your bowels voided by a sonic enema, but the sound should be close. It's more about the circuit design than the size of the power section.
Quote by telejojo
What is the advantage of low watts and can they keep up with a 100 watt amp?

Story time: I used to have a 20 watt tube head with a 2x12 cabinet. I played a show with two other bands that had 100 watt marshalls/mesa boogies with 4x12 cabs for a show with about 50-70 people. My amp's volume didn't need to be above 9 o'clock for our set, and the other guys' amps were so loud the soundman left the board and turned down the amps onstage while they were still playing.

So, the question shouldn't be "Will a 20 watt amp 'keep up' with a 100 watt amp" as much as it should be "Is 100 watts too much for my needs?"

You could buy a 100 watt head and just leave the volume at 1, but it's just overkill. If you can only work your volume between "0" and "2" without blowing the neighbours away, you can't really work out your sound efficiently. You're either stuck being uncomfortably loud for what you're trying to do, or it's slightly too quiet fo you to hear properly. With a lower wattage amp, you get a bit more workable room with the volume so you can hear the little things without shaking the roof.

That's why I like lower watt (10-20) amps as an all-around home/jam/gigging amp. If you're playing a gig, it will give you enough headroom to have a basic clean slate to build your sound, especially if you're miked. And it's not too loud that you can still get that power amp breakup if you want.

Another part of the price/watts confusion is that the price is not always a reflection of how loud an amp can get. Different amps have different sounds. This is due to the value of the components in the circuit, the circuit's design, the build quality, etc. Because of this, certain sounds are easier to get out of a 20 watt amp than a 100 watt amp, and vice versa. Most of the time, it has to do with how the power section is being driven. Some people like the sound, other people don't, and there are reasons for both opinions.

Preamp breakup yields tighter and more defined distortion. Power amp breakup adds compression and warmth while reducing tightness, especially in the low end. The advantage of a 100 watt amp if that the power section does not break up as easily, so you can push your preamp section for preamp gain, while your power amp remains undriven.

On the other side of the coin, you can crank a 5w amp to drive its power section at a relativeley low volume. It's still quite loud (comparable to a loud car/motorcycle), but it's manageable. Try and do that with a 100 watt amp, and you better have a 100ft cable or really good earmuffs.

TL;DR: 100 watts is overkill for anyone other than Eric Johnson or Ted Nugent. If you're playing at home most fo the time and occasionally jamming, stick to the 5-15 watt side of things. If you're gigging, look into the 20-30 watt range. I hope this helped answer your question.
I've had a homemade partscaster for years with no middle pickup. So, when I was at a guitar show a few weeks back I found a local pickup winder called Tone Emporium and we figured what would sound best. I grabbed one of the middle pickups from his TE-01 set and it's a fantastic middle pickup. It's crisp and honky without being too nasally or harsh, really fat in the 2nd and 4th positions. You can hear it in action here: It starts in the middle position, then moves to the neck and middle, then the bridge and middle.

I also grabbed a pedal called a Harmonic Energizer, it's basically a clone of the Maestro PF-1 Paramatric Filter. Essentially, it's a single band eq that you can mix in with your regular signal, as well as adding some dirt with the gain switch. It's great for that Frank Zappa razorbladey sound that you hear on Uncle Remus or Cosmik Debris. I'll have a clip of it sometime this week.
I didn't know where you were located, so I just suggested the 3 major used sites for the US, Canada (Kijiji), and the UK (Gumtree).
I find that when I use a wah pedal, I'm letting my playing decide how to use my wah, but when I use an envelope, it changes how I play my guitar. It definitely takes a while to get the feel for it, and it really makes your dynamics (or lack thereof) apparent.
Just get another VJ? They're dirt cheap on the secondhand market and they're easier to find than you think. If you live near any major city, chances are there will be at least one or two floating around on Craigslist/Kijiji/Gumtree/etc.
How many different sounds are you trying to get? If you only need a few, you can have three presets on the the TC electronics Flashback X4, and four on the Boss DD-20. If that's not enough, the TC Electronics ND-1 can hold 9 presets, and the Rockton Cyborg delay can hold 8 (would have to find one used, though).

If you need any more than that, maybe look into a rack unit with a Midi controller
just steer clear of the DC brick by dunlop, or any other daisy-chain-in-a-box kind of deals. Make sure you get something with isolated outs so that each pedal is being fed power individually instead of in line with the others (daisy chain method). Pedals tend to stay quieter this way.

The Voodolabs iso-5 is a good buy for small boards. It's powers 3 9v plugs, 1 18v plug, and two 400ma plugs for 9v and 12v. It goes for around $100-$120, depending on the store.
It's a really overlooked overdrive because it's a Boss pedal, IMO, but it's got one of the best clean boosts I've heard in a mass produced pedal. It's a different shade of overdrive compared to the Tubescreamers and their clones, because it's missing that mid boost, that's what makes the clean boost on the BD2 so clean. The boost is great for goosing your other overdrive pedals, too.

The main gripe people have with it is that the highs can get pretty harsh and piercing with the tone maxed out, but there's a really cheap, simple solution for this: don't max out the tone knob.

at $30 bucks, its a steal. Even if you don't like it, you could easily get $50 for it.
Quote by Robbgnarly
The Krank Jr series is very overlooked. I have the 1980 Jr (20watt), it is a great amp. I use it for band practice so I don't have to carry a 60lbs marshall head around. Used the Jr series runs $300-$400 that is great for a MIA amp.

The Rev Jr Pro is on my short list of amps to get this coming up year.

This is exactly what I was going to post, but swap the Rev jr for the Krankenstein.
What is your sound lacking currently that you want to improve with a wiring change (besides fixing the toggle)?

Unless your pots have absolutely no taper (the volume/tone knobs go from 10 to 2 to 0 intead of a smooth transition between 10 and 0), or are noticeably scratchy when you're using them, they should be fine.
Nice score, hombre. It'd be cool to hook all those speakers up to some switcher and punch them them in and out like OD pedals. Or build them into one massive retrofunky cabinet. HNGD
Check out the MXR/CAE custom shop boost/od. It has an overdrive and a 20db clean boost on separate switches. They also sell the clean boost on it's own.

Quote by red.guitar
-MXR's OD, GT or ZW (pretty much identical circuit to the tube screamer but cheaper).

the ZW od from MXR is actually quite a bit different than a tubescreamer, IMO. It doesn't add that mid boost that the TS9 is known for and it's not a very good stand alone overdrive. It's great as a booster, but I wouldn't ever use it as the my base of my sound the way a lot of guys do with a tubescreamer.
If you want an ambient delay for the background, get the memory boy/toy. If you want the delay to be more of a front-and-center kind of deal, go for the MXR.
From the bands you listed/being and appartment dweller, it sounds like an Egnater Rebel 20/30 or a Tweaker 15 would be right up your alley. But honestly, any amp with a good range of tone controls (presence and/or resonance, plus the regular T/M/B) can get great sounds at low volumes. The biggest thing I you lose with low volumes is treble and definition. Having a decent eq to work with can get those back. If the amp only has the standard T/M/B layout, but it has an effects loop, stick an eq in there.

Just get something that makes noise you enjoy that in your price range.
Yeah, I tend to double and triple check diagrams because I'm a lefty. I have to really look at most diagrams/tabs/etc to make sure im getting it right as they're laid out for righties. On that note, I didn't take the solderless pots into consideration, so now my tapers are backwards (forward roll=volume down)

There are three wires coming off the pickup selector (neck, bridge and output), with wire on the inside and outside, like a wire stuffed through another wire. When I first hooked it up, I had both end of the wires plugged into the terminal. I took them out, put the wire from the center instead of the whole bundle at the end of the wires into the terminal, and it fixed the volume exclusivisy to a point. I got it working, but it's still a little fuzzy (but not nearly as muddy) and the pickups have a slight bleed into each other with the volumes on full, so I feel like there's still something wrong. I A/B'd it with my Gibson 50's tribute LP with P90s. The extra output is definitely there, but they (bridge especially) don't really sizzle or pickup pinch harmonics as well as the p90s on the Gibson.

Should I just look into wiring up a new pickup switch with a ground?
Sorry, I'm not sure I follow.
I bought a set of solderless EMG 81/85s for my Epi Les Paul, but I'm having a few problems. I followed the instructions that came with the pickups, and when i was finished, i was getting signal through my amp, but it was muddy and the volumes weren't exclusive to each pickup.

The only thing that I've found in the instructions is that I don't have a ground coming off my pickup selector. Could this be the problem or does it sound like something else might be the culprit?
That wouldn't really be an improvement, TBH. The bigsby isn't really made for the types of music that guitar is built for. It'd be like putting vintage would Telecaster pickups in an Jackson dinky.

If you want to improve it for your friend, swap the electronics, upgrade the tuners and have it set up properly. The site that Robbgnarly linked (GFS parts)sells great budget pickups and hardware, so it's worth checking out. Plus, the bigsby bridges are expensive for what they do. Even if you had the work done at a music store, you would probably end up being cheaper than the Bigsby itself.
Before you wire something into your guitar, try a compressor first. I find it helps get the active sound without having to modify your guitar.
Does this happen when the RE20 is off or on, or both? The RE20 messes with your repeats to make it sound like a real Space Echo. If you're running your DD7 before it, and have the RE20 on, it will probably do the same to the DD7's repeats.

If it happens whether or not the pedal is on, maybe it's just a bad cable somewhere along the line.
Quote by Shadowofravenwo
That was my point, your not far off anew tube price. Traynor pisses me off. I live 3 hours away from the factory, yet they have the lowest bang for the buck.

The trick with traynors is going used. you can get a YBA-1 Bassmaster, basically as bassman/plexi clone, for $300-$400 all day. They sell the reissues for twice that.
Quote by Axle1
I've got it working but for some reason i keep getting a really annoying shreik feedback when i mute the strings and also when i turn on the the OD-808 it creates a noticable feedback/ hum even when the NS-2 is on. The Ns-2 does cancel out the hum, but still leaves the OD-808 hum and takes some time 2-5 seconds to completely remove the feedback. Here is a vid showing it :

I used this method :

Guitar Out to NS2 Input

NS2 Send to Effects Chain to Amp Input

Effects Loop Send to NS2 Return

NS2 Output to Power Amp In

I've put mute on and had both parameters on highest and still have these problems

There's the problem. Try setting the decay to 9 oclock and the threshold to 3 oclock. The decay controls how long it takes for the gate to kick in. Lower the setting, the quicker the gate. This should solve the kick-in problem.
If you're going for live use, get a Boss RC2/3 footswitch or just buy the RC20/30. Having the second footswitch there for stopping the loop is a lot handier than hitting the same footswitch twice.
Just so you lazies can see the pictures without manually typing :

Maybe you can get some shots of the stings on the neck, and how far they are from the frets.
Quote by Heideck
gonnabe hard to hit perfectly SRV tone cuz he was playing on Dumble amps.

+1 for the blackface, IMO a great pickups
Lace pickups are great too

The Dumble was a tiny part of his sound, and he only started using his Dumble after trying one out at Jackson Browne's studio. Besides, Dumble's amps are just tweaked Fender circuits anyways. You can get the same sounds, for cheaper, with a 40~ watt black face Fender (Vibroverb, Bassman, Super Reverb, etc) and a decent dirt box.

The overwound pickups have a lot more to do with his sound, IMO. It makes his clean tones punch that much harder and drive his amps that much better than the usual strat sound. Using a TS, .013 gauge strings and playing hard as f*ck probably helps, too

Quote by strat-O-matic92
im just trying to get in the ball park lol..I've been hearing good things about the VOX AC15vr, has anyone played through it and how does it compare to the fender blues jr?

The AC15vr is using the "stick a 12ax7 somewhere in the amp and call it a tube amp" schtick that has been popularized by Blackstar's HT-5. The sound you seem to be after comes from cranking the amp's power section. Your current amp will do this a lot better than the AC15vr.
I have the Voodoo Labs ISO5 and it should do everything you're asking. It has 3 9v plugs, one 9v and one 12v at 300mA, and one 18v plug. It's pretty much the cheapest isolated power supply you can get, even up here in Canada it was only around $100.

As far as tube preamps go, I'm not sure if this counts, but I've always loved the old Tubeworks stuff (Real Tube, Blue Tube, Tube Driver). They're more like tube distortions, but they're great as "2nd channels" for a clean amp.
Even though you think you can't afford a head/cab setup, it's well within your reach if you have $1000 to spend. These are all on the San Antonio craigslist.

Peavey 5150 II - $900
Sovtek MIG 60 halfstack - $650
Reb Bear MK120 halfstack - $650
Marshall DSL100 head only - $650

But if you want a combo, there are a few options, too. All of these are 2x12 combos.

Peavey Vypyr 100 - $365
Mesa/Boogie 5:50 express - $650
Peavey 5150 - $500
Carvin X100b - $385
Line 6 Flextone III - $250

These two won't get the distortion you need on their own, but with the money left over in your budget, you could get whatever you wanted in a distortion pedal.
Bassman clone - $350
Musicman HD130 - $500

The only two amps on there that have built in chorus is the Vypyr and the Flextone, but you can pick up a decent chorus for cheap, too.

Boss CE5 - $30
Boss CH1 - $40
Electro-Harmonix Small Clone - $40
Danelectro Cool Cat Chorus (new version) - $35
Danelectro Cool Cat Chorus (old version, not FAB version) - $25
DOD Ice Box - $50