it will still work, but IMO you should get the pup that fits your guitar if you have the choice. If it's a trem guitar, get the F spaced. If you get a standard spaced pup with a trem, either the top or bottom poles won't line up directly under the strings. Distance to the strings does matter IMO, I've done exactly what you're thinking, and had to compromise which end I wanted lined up under the strings correctly. Not to mention it looks like a cob job that way.
another vote for the ISP. I haven't used a more transparent noise gate/eliminator. I have the G-string, and it's hard to tell when it's on, other than the amount of noise when you stop playing.
a picture says a thousand words

make sure the polarity of the adapter jack is correct for the pedal, ie. center or sleeve positive or negative.
Quote by BoL7z
Could house wiring affect the amp much? my house is at least 23years old and the wires are that old as well

If it is say a bias issue how hard is that to fix? My multimeter should be here by next week,

house wiring can sometimes affect an amp, but usually it's noise or blown fuses with that kind of issue. In the case of a bias issue, it's usually either too hot or too cold. Biasing is setting the idle current for the tubes, related to what kind of tube and the plate voltage of your specific amp. Too hot can redplate tubes, where it cooks them and basically uses up their lifespan too quick. Too cold, and it can give you undesirable noise in the form of crossover distortion. Volume drops or no volume is usually more likely associated with a bad tube, or like someone mentioned, something in the signal path losing connection. The fx loops on the 5150(switching jacks) are notorious for getting dirty and creating an open connection on the fx loop, which results in volume drops/no volume.

BTW, P=VI is the formula for power. For example, using something like an EL34(22-25W) and measuring your plate voltage on your specific amp(ie. guessing around 470Vdc plate voltage) allows you to plug in numbers. Using these numbers as an example:

Power(25W) = Voltage(470V) x I
25W/470V = 53mA, then you take around 60-70% of that max current, to set what your tubes should be idling at, so around 37mA for our example if you used 70%. You should really get a bias meter that can read plate voltage of your specific amp, as you can see from our example.
I wouldn't keep playing it man, problems like that don't just fix themselves. I would guess a bad tube, probably intermittently shorting, or a cold solder joint somewhere. It's probably not something you want to keep pushing your luck with either, a bad tube can arc and take out other parts like screen grid resistors or circuit traces.
Quote by Oldmonkeys
I'm not finding it anywhere as bad as my old Fender hot rod was. I think I can dial in a much better bedroom volume with the wizard than I ever could with the fender.

In fact I'm really pleased with the taper on mine

heh, well, maybe I'm exagerating a little, but I'm also comparing it to amps like Diezel and Bogner, where there is a true master/channel volume combination. I will say the lead channel is easier for me to get a good low vol tone, but the rhythm channel is pretty much off or blasting with my taper.
the Xotic BB preamp works really well with the HT5 IMO, gives it a nice kick in ass for some gainy rhythm and leads. It has seperate gain, vol, bass, and treble controls too. The Custom shop BB I just saw in a thread on here has a mid boost knob too, but I have no idea on pricing... yet.

I have a clip I did on my HT5 with the BB. Not a real br00talz clip, and just a short test, but you can hear the BB pushing it.
Quote by Oldmonkeys
I was told that it hadnt been played for more than 5 hours.
So I'm not sure what the go was. all i know is it works amazingly now.

and clips arent going to happen just yet sorry, the rest of the family is home and somehow i dont think they would appreciate having the whole house shaking

hehe, yeah, I know the scenario well. These things are so damn loud, the volume taper is like mouse fart to sky is falling with a slight bump on the knob.
wow, glad to hear it was something minor and you got it squared away. I got a scare when I first got mine too. I smoked my E34L within a week of receiving it, lol, these amps really seem to put a beatdown on tubes. You should be rattling your teeth out running one of these on 12:00 for extended periods. I'm really surprised the inputs needed to be re-soldered though, they look bulletproof inside. Was it gigged a lot? Makes me think they are a bit more delicate than I thought. Yours is definitely one of the newer ones too, you can tell by the vertical input jacks. Looking forward clips man.
Quote by CECamps
Do I believe that speaker cone size factors into sensitivity? Yes! But the sensitivity of a speaker doesn't double because it's paired with another speaker. At "X" watts the speaker produces "Y" dB of output. I'm interested to understand how that can possibly change. I mean I understand phase cancellation and its effects on audible volume, not talking about that. What we are talking about is a measure of power being driven to a speaker load. If we are stating that the 4x12 will be 3dB louder than the 1x12 at the same nominal impedance (in our perfect world let's not forget) using my 64 watt example, then we need to figure out where the additional 64 watts required to squeeze out that additional 3dB is coming from. That or we need to figure out how passive speakers can create that acoustical energy on their own--independent of the power source they are hooked up to.

I'm no physics expert either, but we are talking about increasing efficiency with the power we have, not adding power. I think what they are using is exactly what you touched on, rather than phase cancelling, phase adding thru on-axis acoustic or mutual coupling. This is assuming identical drivers, identical input signals, and close proximity of the drivers to eachother in relation to wavelength, like a guitar cab. The total radiant efficiency would double due to coupling, so it should add +3dB to the sound pressure level. We are talking hypothetical here however, where we are directly in front of the speakers, and the waveforms are hitting the listener at the same time in phase.
theoretically, assuming the drivers are identical and at the same distance, doubling the driver surface area, even at the same wattage, still increases the SPL by +3dB. Doubling the power of the amp, thru the same speaker, also increases the SPL by +3dB. Doubling the amp power and doubling the surface area of the drivers increases the SPL by +6dB. When you are doubling the driver surface area, you are also doubling the radiant efficiency of the system due to coupling. There are finite limits due to max efficiency and phase cancellation, but it doesn't work out mathematically to just dividing the wattage and driving each speaker with the same efficiency it would have by itself. Then you can get into perceived loudness with factors of intensity, frequencies the human ear is more sensitive to, etc.
Quote by Andrew/WK
British Voiced meaning?

yeah, I'm curious how a cab gives a British voicing too, especially considering they both use V30.

Quote by DakoRob

I hear good things about these cabs. I'm getting a 6505+ head.

I'm thinking of getting Afterburner 412B, Straight front. OR Mesa boogie 4x12 Stiletto (slant) cab

those Mills are one of the best cabs on the market IMO. However, they will probably be way out of his pricerange with import duties and shipping.
go to Rebel Amps, Josh will give you a good price, and his customer service is second to none, great guy to deal with. I've bought several heads through him, and wouldn't go anywhere else at this point if I was buying new.
Quote by AcousticMirror
crap man you should have been here yesterday..or I should have said something. Today was the last day.

in a seven swampash h/s/h fixed bridge.

ahh, holy crap, those are awesome guitars man. I wouldn't have been able to afford it right now anyway, it's probably better I knew nothing about it, lol. You are going to be one happy mofo. Congrats!
Quote by AcousticMirror
not yet. it'll be here in june.

ooooh, custom job? You need to PM me when you get it if I'm not around. I'm dying to get a nice custom 7. That, or I've been looking at the EBM JP7 family reserve as far as production guitars. I definitely want to grab something quality this year.
Quote by AcousticMirror

I just joined the club.

ah, nice, welcome!

so where's the pics, don't make me go profile surfing!
Quote by AcousticMirror
hmm I'll have to run a test. what's your 7 string?

hehe, well, if you ever want to truly test it, you can use something like this.
Not as cheap as I remembered it though, lol.

my 7 string is a Schecter C-7 Hellraiser FR. It was a prototype of the 2008 model that never made it into production. I really liked the binding on the side rather than the front however.

Quote by AcousticMirror
Well ok let's say I have one swamp thang rated at 150watts right in a 112. and 4 of the same speaker in a 412. Obviously if i'm 10-15 feet from the speaker it's going to sound louder out of the 412 because of where the sound is coming from right. But is there actually a pure volume increase?

well, if it's sounding louder, that's a difference in SPL, which is still an actual volume difference. Like you said, there are a lot of factors. Distance from the driver plays a role obviously, considering every doubling of distance drops the SPL 6dB. Then there is the proximity of the drivers themselves to eachother compared to wavelength, where coupling occurs or phase cancellation. You can see it begins to swing towards diminishing returns rather quickly as the limits are approached.
Quote by 311ZOSOVHJH
damn - you just posted again. All I was going to say was shit bro you got all smart and shit on us

haha, no man, stilll the same dumbass I always was. You can ask the same quesiton on any car audio or home stereo audiophile forum and get the same answers. I've just been hanging out on other places besides guitar forums.

Quote by AcousticMirror
Erock has it right. There's a lot of variables going on here that make a direct comparison very very hard.

Still I find it hard that adding a single speaker would increase the volume significantly since you are cutting the wattage to each speaker and thus each speaker is working less hard as a result.

it's all about efficiency man. Doubling the power of an amp, doubling the driver surface area, or going from a 97dB senstivity speaker to a 100dB sensitivity speaker(ie G12T75 to a V30) all equate to the same difference. realistically, not a lot, lol.
Quote by Faux~Affliction
Everything I've heard previously on this forum is that adding speakers does not add a significant amount of volume. I haven't studied the subject so I won't talk too much. But assuming what was said earlier that "adding a speaker increases the volume by 3dB"; a 412 cab over a 112 cab is 9dB louder (which is almost TWICE as loud.)
Twice as loud is a HUGE difference. Thats about the difference between a 20w amp and a 200w amp.
I can tell you from experience that going from a 112 to a 412 does NOT double the volume.

I think alot of people in the thread are talking out of their ass, we need a legit psychoacoustics expert up in hurr.

doubling the drivers/surface area is approx +3dB, so 1 to 2 speakers is +3dB, and then 2 to 4 speakers is another +3dB, so +6dB total. +3dB is right around the threshold where the human ear can tell there is a difference in volume, and +10dB is generally accepted as approximately twice the volume to the human ear, so it's nowhere near double the volume.
Quote by stratman_13
Erock, holy ****! How've you been?

And me either. I'm dying to get my hands on one of those.

haha, hey brother, been good, how about yourself? I haven't been hanging on forums as much as I used to, but I lurk every so often. and yeah, that Cantrell wah looks great, I saw a review on RT from a guy that just got one, and it sounds like a winner. link
Quote by Bostonrocks
Yeah i was like.hmmm that must be him! haha.

Yeah you're not around much anymore. I"m sporting a JCM900 right now .

You make me sad that you got rid of your splawns

haha, well nothing wrong with a JCM900 man, wtf!

and if it makes you feel any better, I'll probably be getting another QR and Nitro at some point, those are a couple of the few amps that I really wish I had back. The dream is to build a small studio, as I want to be able to record my own stuff and some local bands down the road. I just won't be flipping anything to get amps I'm interested in at this point.
Quote by Bostonrocks
Whoa!!!! Erock!!! haven't seen you in like...ages...

Do you hang out on RT much? there is a guy by the name of Erock on there to

hey what's up man, long time no talk!

yeah that's me, I post every so often on RT and HC, just haven't been posting anywhere nearly as much as I used to.
Quote by thrasher.
Thanks Erock!

I see you have both a CCV and a would you compare them? I have a chance to get either a CCM or CCV and don't know if it is worth it to buy it or even sell the Diezel.

well, they are definitely different animals, but oddly enough can sound pretty close IMO. The Herbert has more lowend, which isn't surprising, and ch3 has more gain than the CCV. However, the CCV can dish out quite a punch, and has a ton of usable gain also. The CCV reminds me a lot of the 2004+ XTC 101B to be honest. If you took the XTC red channel boosted, made it more open, and could keep the excursion on L while still remaining tight, that would sound like the CCV to my ears. Just a huge snarling growling midrange grind that is unmistakable. That would be on the highest gain mode though. It has 3 modes on each of the 2 channels. The Ch1 goes from clean to hotrodded marshall in the Ocean/Jose vein, while Ch2 ranges from something like a NMV plexi to a high gain, tighter bigger XTC IMO. It's a real addictive amp to play. I don't know if I would get rid of the Herbert right away just to get one though, the Herbert is a great amp in it's own right. I will say though, I traded a VH4 to get mine, and have no regrets whatsover.

If you aren't good friends with Mark, you'll probably be waiting a very long time to snag one however. That, or you'll pay thru the nose for one used until he gets production rolling again consistently. I'm on the mailing list for when they start taking CCM orders again, but I haven't heard anything. There is a long line of people with deposits on the CCV at this point, so you must have an inside edge if you have the chance to snag one.

If you can afford it, I would snatch it up in a heartbeat. On the off chance you don't like it, you will easily be able to sell it, most likely for close to double what you paid if you are paying the current production price. The used prices on them are absolutely ridiculous at this point. I tell you what, if you get the CCM and don't really gel with it for whatever reason, I want dibs on it, and I don't care what you're charging, lol.
Quote by JHC_DOH
and im sure all the "cheap meters from radioshack" in the audience will be congradulating the TS on how loud his amp was at his show.

that's kind of a funny picture, lol. I'm not disagreeing with you, just saying it's a measurable quantity, ear or no ear.

Quote by FischmungaXTR
Thing is, 4x speakers wont move more air than 1x speaker at the same wattage, assuming linear efficiency,

The single speaker will move 4x as much as the four speakers, and so move the same amount of air.

My amp actually sounds quieter through a 412 than through a 212

you can't assume linear efficiency, since the radiating efficiency of the system doubles due to mutual coupling as you double the number of drivers. The max is somewhere around 25% efficiency IIRC. There are also factors like having a minimum driving force for cone movement to get the full rated frequency response of a speaker.
I want the new Cantrell wah.
Quote by 311ZOSOVHJH
^See page 1 of thread below.....I think this is accurate but damn it sure is hard keeping up]

PS: Erik, someone else here recently got a Wizard - I think that is documented on the last page of the same thread.

Derek needs a whole page for his gear alone, lol!

That white Wizard sure is drool worthy.

Quote by MatrixClaw

Just sold both my Mesas, so debating on a few things ATM... I messaged you on AIM the other day but you didn't answer, you bum!

haha, sorry man, by the time I saw it, you were already offline.

have you seen Mako's new preamp yet? Dorado/Makoplex/Crunch/Clean in one pre, it's friggin enourmous but so sexy. He's also designing a poweramp for it. The Pre lists at $850 right now!

I want one of those bad, and I think I'm going to order a Peters Hydra with the extra gain mod in a couple months.
Quote by forsaknazrael
How are those Tung Sol EL34Bs different from...say...JJ ones? Jw.

just IMO, but to my ears they have a little more lowend response, real percuassive and articulate, a bit more sparkle in the highend, and are more balanced thru the midrange. They have a real cool crunch when they start to saturate, which develops into a real musical compression as they breakup.
Quote by Zero Substance
The Tung Sol EL34B is a tube i've been looking at. Considering how much I love the sound of my amp with the old EL34's in it, new ones might just be all I need.

they are pretty kickass tubes man, really nice bass response too. I think you will like them.
Quote by MatrixClaw

A Fabled Erock appears!

lol, legend in my own mind eh.

Wassup MC! glad to see you've kept the torch going.

so what kind of goodies are you packing these days!
whoah, congrats man! Now that's a kickass HNAD!
Quote by forsaknazrael
FWIW, I was running a pair of JJ KT77s in my Traynor YCV40T for a long time. Never had any problems.

I say go for it.

yeah, I liked them enough where I would throw the dice again if there was any indication they had improved their reliability. I know I wasn't alone in my bad luck though, Splawn stopped using them in his amps because they had a very high failure rate .

Quote by Zero Substance
I've definitely heard that the JJ's are a little less than reliable so I'm a little hesitant because of that. I like power tube saturation, too, so maybe it would be better to stick with EL34's? Also, to clarify, my power tubes are old but my preamp tubes aren't. I changed those last year. Are there any other companies worth noting that are currently making the KT77's besides JJ?

I've had pretty good luck with their EL34/E34L/KT88 tubes, but I couldn't get a new set of KT77 to last for some reason. The only current production ones I've found were made by Genelex, but they were about 50 bucks a tube. The only others I saw were a few NOS types like Mullard and GEC, wayyyyy too pricey. It's too bad, because I do like the KT77 sound. They have an interesting sound when they break up, almost like a 6L6/EL34 hybrid. The current production Tungsol EL34B reminded me a bit of them with their breakup. Like I said though man, don't let me put you off the KT77, I haven't tried them in about 6 months, it may have been just a bad batch I went through.
The Zoom Q3 seems to be the hot ticket for a good sounding mini cam.
the KT77 should give you a bit more bass response, little more crisp and tight, and maybe a bit more extended highend. The EL34 are easier to drive IME if you are looking for more poweramp saturation, little more midrange emphasis. Not sure how current production standards are, but I've had some pretty horrible luck with the JJ KT77 in the last couple of years. I've gone thru at least 4 quads of them redplating in different amps after only a brief time running. I like their sound, but gave up on them because of their current reliability. I have one quad that's a few years old, and those are the only ones I have that are stilll good. YMMV of course. If you are set on JJ's, I've had pretty good luck with their E34L tubes, bit more bass response than their EL34, and they stay pretty tight.

BTW, you'll probably notice more differences in the overall sound with preamp tubes rather than powertubes. I would definitely change those too. If they are all 4 years old and heavily gigged, you will most likely hear a big difference just with new tubes in general, regardless of the brand/type. Those things have to be screaming for mercy at this point.
Quote by 311ZOSOVHJH
all else being equal - an additional speaker will add 3db.


where the fuk have you been brother

and why of all the threads did you decide to post in here

Good to see ya

haha, good to see you too mang.

been around, just super busy, new home, new work, etc...
I dunno why I posted in here tbh, I should know better to stay out of these arguments.
Quote by JHC_DOH
Yeah, all this "percieved volume" crap. If it SOUNDS louder to the human ear, it's louder. That's what volume is. Take the "human ear" part out of that equation and tell me if there's any volume at all.

well, technically what the human ear is translating is sound pressure levels, which you can measure with a cheap meter from Radioshack.
Quote by AcousticMirror
all things being equal 4 speakers versus 1 is an issue of dispersion rather then absolute volume.
If you have 4 speakers of the same efficiency through a 100 watt amp then each speaker is getting 25 watts at x sensitivity.
If you have 1 speaker then that speaker is getting 100 watts at x sensitivity.

It's impossible that the 4 speakers will receive more output wattage then the 100 speaker.

The issue is dispersion. It all depends on where you are measuring the perceived volume. Are you inside the cab? to the side? on the ceiling? A 412 will move more air so it will seem louder closer to the cab but since each speaker is receiving less wattage the strength of the sound coming out from each speaker will disperse and interact with the sound coming out with the other speakers differently.

If you have 1 speaker in the middle of the room it's going to sound quieter at the extreme left and rights of the room. If you have 2 speakers in the corners it's going to sound quieter in the middle.

if it's moving more air, that's increasing sound pressure levels. The wattage is dispersed, but your x sensitivity will change as a system compared to that of 1 speaker. It's the same principle as putting 100W thru a 6in speaker compared to a 12in speaker.
wow, didn't even know about that BB custom shop pedal. I have the regular BB, and it's one of my favorite pedals. Now I must have the custom shop, thanks for the gas, lol. Nice rig man.
Quote by Obama FTW
So I've had my 5150 for about a year and 6-7months and I think I'd like to get some new tubes. I dont know how often you're supposed to change them but I'd like to get some just in case. So I was looking on craigslist(as I always do) and I found this guy who's selling a shitload of tubes. But i dont know which ones to buy, so if you guys could help me that would be cool. Here's the link...

It's about half-way down where he has the tubes. I've got money so I'm not really worried about that but I dont wanna' spend like 50$ for a tube. So how many of which ones should I get? This dudes got alot and I think 5150's have 7tubes.. I think, not sure. Any help is appreciated.

The 5150 uses 5 preamp tubes and 4 power tubes. I would just go to a reputable dealer, like tubedepot, dougstubes, eurotubes, etc... if you want new ones. They can make recommendations for what brand of tubes, depending what you are looking for as far as sound, and they will test a set that will work correctly with the stock 5150 bias. This is assuming yours hasn't been modded for an adjustable bias.

Personally, I learned long ago not to buy tubes off of individuals unless you know you can absolutely trust them. There is no way to verify that they are actually new tubes, or ones that have been beat into the ground unless you have a tube tester. At least with a reputable dealer, you know you are getting a fresh set, not someone's closet junk.

Powertubes generally last about a year with average use, and preamp tubes should usually be changed about every other powertube change, where the phase inverter preamp tube gets changed with each powertube change. Of course, those numbers aren't set in stone, it's all about when the sound quality starts to deteriorate.