Oh, and the Quickrod is a very dry amp vs the Nitro which is more saturated. Eric - Have you played both? I forget.
yeah, I actually owned the old 3 pre Quickrod, the newer 4 pre Quickrod, and the Nitro. The Nitro is more saturated than the QR, but it's still on the dry"er" side IMO. Still fun to play, but not saturated like an ENGL or Recto. Both very tight percussive amps though. I will probably own another 3 pre QR at some point if I can find one, but I couldn't dial in the Nitro to have the sizzle and presence I wanted without getting harsh. YMMV of course, but I tried for months, and I loved the other aspects of that amp.
Aside from the VHT's, and a MKIII, I haven't played any of those, and I'm used to a really, really saggy response, so I thought the uber was tight
well, I'm not trying to say my opinion is right, and everyone else is wrong either, just surprised. I'm sure peoples definition of what they consider tightness in an amp would vary too. When I think of tight, I think of a very fast attack and response, very percussive with very little sag. Doesn't have a lot of that "give" in the feel when you are playing in the lower registers. I like a bit of sag, gives an amp a feel to me that makes it enjoyable to play. Has to stay articulate and clear down low for fast riffs, but I like my sound to bloom and have a little "give" after the notes. If an amp is too tight, I kind of get a solid state vibe or something from it, so I tend to gravitate towards the bigger sounding amps that have a bit of give to the sound.
yeah, definitely. i haven't tried the mako, but the SE has more than enough gain without a boost, unless you just want a different tone or something. same thing with the savage se, even though it doesn't have as much gain as the SE... well, it's not a million miles off, but it only has a lot of gain on channel 4, whereas the se has it on both 3 and 4; the savage se only really has enough on channel 3 for 80s metal, and that's with the gain dimed and using reasonably hot humbuckers, though at higher volumes it does get a bit heavier.
And the other problem is that channel 3's gain affects channel 4's, so if you want channel 4 to be heavy, you have to have quite a bit of gain dialled in on channel 3 (well, it's not really a problem, looking at it from another angle it's an advantage, as it means you don't *have* to set up channels 3 and 4 for t3h br00talz, as you do on, say, the powerball). you can't set up channel 2 for a slight crunch, and then set up channel 3 for slightly more crunch, if you want modern metal on channel 4... boosting the crunch normally can be a good idea in that instance- it works ok (it does on mine anyway, i haven't tried the se with a boost), but again there's not much need, unless you have channels 3 +4 set up for heavier stuff, and need only a slightly boosted tone for, say, lead on the crunch channel(s)...
kinda went off on a tangent there... i guess, the savage se is preferable to the powerball for versatility in that you can more or less only dial in br00talz on channels 3 and 4- but those high gain switches on the SE are better again...
haha, I had to read that a couple times, but I got it now. And yeah, I agree, I would probably only use it for leads on the crunch. It's not so much gain I like to add with a boost though, like you said, it's more the feel and bite it adds to the tone. I usually end up turning the gain down too when I boost. Some amps though already seem to have that "feel" of being boosted. I imagine the Savage SE is quite a beast, I still want to try one bad. I know of only one other guy that even has one though, and he's not selling either, lol.
Do you have a pic of the front of your Savage Dave? I've seen the regular one up close, but haven't seen the SE up close yet.
yeah, suggestions are good in this thread. If you think you will use the extra features and capability of the digital, then go for it. If you're just looking for a natural sounding delay though, I prefer analog personally.
for current production, power tubes between $15-25USD, preamp between $9-20USD depending on the brands. Prices shoot way up if you go NOS(new old stock) or cryo treated however, you can start tacking on hundreds if they are an old NOS coveted tube.
used, Mesa are built like tanks, it's very unlikely it will break down on you if it's working fine now. That is of course as long as you don't break it thru negligence. Plus, if it's less than 5 years old, Mesa has a 5 year transferable warranty last I knew.
However, $1400 seems a bit steep for a used dual rec in the states IMO. Maybe if it was a pre-500 blackface model or something, but that seems pricey for a regular 3ch DR, especially in the current economic climate.
Does this mean you checked out those impulse clips I posted before? The thing about recording my cab, I don't have a microphone and even if I did have one, I wouldn't be able to crank my cab...ever. Impulses are basically my only option
I actuall have considered trading in the BM...but for now I need it for live. Gigs coming up! I'm not sure if I like the AxeFX yet, it's got loads of settings and stuff...but I'm a 100% tube kinda guy. I do plan on getting a nice ENGL Savage preamp at some point...and that new fireball is looking pretty sexy too
Ps. I will be recording a full length Dark Reign song with my Blackmore next week. I have till thursday to figure out my Blackmore settings before I finalize it by tracking. Right now this is my favorite setup:
BM OD: Level: 75% Lows: 55% Highs: 50% Gain: 0%
Blackmore: Channel: 4 Lead: 60% Bass: 50% Middle: 40% Treble: 50% Presence: not applicable Lead volume: 50% Contour: IN
Sounds pretty thick and mean to me...but input is still very much welcomed. I haven't masted that clip or anything...so I would still take out some of the fizz, and probably add some more bite in the high end.
got to check out a couple, and liked what I heard so far! yeah, and I like that new one. Can you track it to both sides, I'd like to hear how it sounds doubletracked.
really surprised to see so many people that think the Uberschall is tight. I had the Rev Blue, and thought it was very round and a bit loose without being boosted. Even boosted, I wouldn't consider it one of the super tight amps. Great amp, and I actually liked the bit of sag it had that added to the "feel" of the amp, but not an amp I would rank in the tightest. Most ENGL, VHT UL/CL/SigX, Splawn QR/Nitro, Mesa Mark III/IV, Mako Dorado/Mak2, Diezel herbert/VH4, even the Kranks are all amps I would consider much tighter.
I might be going back on my original opinion on boosts + blackmore Recording a new Dark Reign song next week, and I've had pretty good results running an OD in front of the blackmore for impulses during my tone + cab tests. Didn't care for it much live, but it seems to add clarify and definition when using impulses.
yeah, I can understand that actually, I liked my BM with a boost believe it or not, lol, even live. I dunno man, you seem to be moving away from actual cabs for recording, and you're doing some kickass things with those impulses. Have you ever considered trading in the BM for a couple good tube pres? When you are gigging, you could always pick up a poweramp later. Bet you could do a lot with an AxeFX too bro.
Quote by Dave_Mc
yeah. mine actually seems to like a cleanish boost ok, but there's really not much point, as to do that i end up turning the gain down slightly... i can have the same effect by just turning the gain up... unless i need a slightly hotter sound on one of the channels (and the next channel up is too much), in which case it can be useful...
yeah, guess it really depends on the amp. The only 2 amps so far I have actually preferred without a boost is the Mako Dorado/Mak2, and the ENGL SE. I love boosts usually, but those 2 amps just "feel" and sound like they're already boosted. I'm only considering Lead I and Lead II however, maybe I should try boosting the crunch channel.
hahaha there's always going to be something you'll want to try out, but I think you could hit any tone conceivable with the combination of amps you have, what amps are you still curious to get your hands on?
The SE you have looks like an amp from space, I was GAS'ing for an Invader, but the SE is even a step above that, gahhh I need more money, or a larger line of credit hahahah
hehe, yeah, I'm very happy with the amps I have right now. Basically covers anything I would feel like playing, and does it well. I have a friend that keeps wanting to trade me for a VHT UL, which I really want to try, but I'm not willing to let my XTC go for it. The SE is a beast man, one of the best sounding amps I've gotten my hands on, probably in my top 3 metal amps I've ever owned. I imagine the Invader kicks all kinds of ass too though.
now, whether or not you should actually buy *that* footswitch is more of a decision- the z4 is pretty dear for a bog-standard 2-button switch, and the z3 is cheapo crap (i have some of them), but, er, yeah. why waste a ton of money on an engl and then not use its distortion? that's what you bought it for, right? plus a lot of the engls aren't even all that keen on pedals... i haven't ever tried a tubescreamer with a screamer, but i tried a t-rex alberta, which is pretty similar, and i didn't think it sounded all that great through the screamer...
very true about boost pedals too. I don't care for my ENGL at all with a boost. I think it's actually the first amp I've played in a long time where I greatly prefer it without a boost. Some amps seem to already have a really jacked up input, like it's already boosted or something, adding a boost in that situation just makes a mess.
it's a great cab for the price man. Not going to say it's better than Mesa, but I liked the XL V30 better than the OS Recto V30 4x12 cab I had. I think the OS design will sound pretty killer with your Mark III.
well, no offense, but you have it worded kind of funny, you can't really add the price of tubes to the cost of a new head, and then compare it to your used price.
Also, not to kill your sale, but just looking at ebay, you can get a new one with warranty for $600 shipped right now. That's without using the "best offer" choice too. The used market is crap for sellers right now, great time to be a buyer though. If you want to see what stuff is going for on the used market, look at the completed listings on ebay using the advanced search.
edit: didn't see you lowered it to $500 shipped, that seems like a much fairer price, surprised it hasn't moved.
interesting. Don't usually like built in fx, but it's cool they left it true bypass. They left some good features off the head though, no presence control, no emulated out, no fx loop, and no seperate boost for each channel. I'm interested to hear it, but it's going to have to sound incredible to compete with the HT-5 head at half the price.
the 5150 is 120W, and can use 4ohm, 8ohm, or 16ohm loads. If each side of the stereo cab is 8ohm, that makes 4ohm in parallel if he connected a cable to each side and then to the 2 speaker outs on the head. Does the Spider cab have a mono/stereo switch? But yeah, the spider cabs aren't really highly regarded, there are definitely better options, especially used.
there are a couple ways amp makers implement them, mostly in the negative feedback loop of the power amp, where you increase the resistance to ground by turning the knob. It works like a tone control in a guitar, and affects the overall "perceived" brightness. I think generally in the 2kHz+ range, but different makers will use a different range, and sometimes a different design.
Erock, conversely, there are no metal albums (or none I have ever heard of) recorded in a bedroom with neighbours.
doesn't mean you can't get a great cranked amp recording in that setting. I record all the time with my amps cranked in a small house. My neighbors haven't complained yet, but I'm not stupid about when I record and crank them either. This is an ENGL SE shaking my walls. My friend put vocals on it and did the drums, but the guitars were done in my room. Keep in mind my recording gear is a cheap 4ch mixer and 2 mics, an SM57 and e906. http://www.netmusicians.org/files/14-HopeGone.mp3
Quote by tyru007
Note that I said 100 watt tube amp. You could not possibly run a 100 watt tube amp in your house or studio at the point of good OD or distortion without going deaf. If adding metal pedals in front of a 100 watt half stack give you your "tone", go for it.
I am not against combos or stack, 5 watt or 500 watt rigs, tubes or SS amps. I am just saying look at what your needs are and get amp(s) that meet your needs, not for the "cool" factor of having a half stack.
I agree to look at your needs, but not everyone has the same needs, that's the point. The clip I posted was all amp, straight in with a guitar thru a 4x12 cab. No fx, no OD/boost, no EQ. Guitar->cable->amp
I absolutely agree. A half stack with a 100 watt tube amps in anything other than a huge venue would be ridiculous. Running it at 1% at practice/home/studio would be crap for tone.
see, this is the attitude that spawned this thread. So you're saying anyone with a 100W amp is ridiculous unless they play huge venues, and must have crap for tone if they use it at practice/home/studio.
I have nothing against a combo, but if a person has the money, and knows what they are after, there is nothing wrong with a good halfstack. It's dependent on what you play too IMO. There isn't one metal album I can think of that was done on a small wattage combo. No offense against your 12W combo, but you just won't get the same punch and girth I get out of my 100W halfstack, it's just not going to happen, mic'd or not. I'm sure you didn't build the amp with that in mind though. Not everyone has to use their 100W amp at 1% either, some of us are able to actually turn an amp up for practice/home/studio.
love my HT-5, makes a killer little practice amp, hits the sweet spot like a bigger tube amp at much lower volumes. Sounds way bigger than other mini amps I've tried. Very happy with the little bugger, fun amp to play.
Quote by music_mike
...The amp runs on only two tubes (12BH7 pre-amp and 12AX7 (ECC83) power-amp, both are stock Electro-Harmonix) and produces 5 watts of output.
actually it uses the dual triode 12BH7 in a push/pull to make it's power, the 12AX7 is still used for the preamp. The amp should also be biased if you change the 12BH7.
Hmm, I've never heard of this strategy. Does anyone else do this? How does it work? clips?
that only really works if your amp doesn't have a master volume. You can turn down the level from the preamp using the EQ in the loop, so it acts like a master volume before the poweramp.
a boost pedal and eq in the loop should fix you right up, as long as you like the actually voicing of your amp. Those Trasparent OD are creating quite a buzz, I heard about it from another friend. The fish & chips EQ isn't really a bad little pedal either, the plastic casing is a knock, but the thing sounds good. Can't go wrong with an OD808 either however.
how do you know all the tubes are fine btw? You sometimes can't tell just by looking at them, they can still light up and be toast. New doesn't matter either, it's the same technology as the light bulb, they can last 2 minutes or 2 years. Have you actually replaced them with known good working ones?
erock is pretty much always right, its just that in my extensive experience with a dual and a triple, it introduced far too much sag for my liking. that being said, i was running directly into the amp with no eqs or boosts. in any case, you need to try a recto before deciding upon it because it is a mesa.
haha, thanks, but I'm wrong plenty too! But yeah, I see where you're coming from, I don't like the Recto nearly as much without a boost tbh, that is for metal anyway. There is a noticable difference between the 2ch and 3ch also IMO. Definitely something you would need to play first for sure. I actually have a friend that thought the recto didn't have enough gain, lol!
there is a case when a recto doesnt respond crisply enough for some riffage/styles.
don't make a blanket statement about the amps, plenty of bands have made them work perfectly well for all styles of metal. If you know how to use a boost, and know how to work with the interactive EQ, you can make a Recto sound tight and responsive enough for just about any riffing. That said, I greatly prefer the 2ch over the 3ch versions however, different animal to my ears.
ah. so what is the dual rectifier by mesa, is that all tube recifier?
the Rectifier converts AC line voltage from your wall to DC for use in your amp's circuit. This can be accomplished using rectifier tubes, or using silicon diodes. The rectifier tubes introduce a bit of "sag" to the sound, since as the amp tries to draw more current from the rectifier, it will actually provide less current because of the nature of how it works. This is how all old tube amps got their power, so it's become associated with more of a vintage sound. The SS rectifier should be a bit louder and tighter.
The single rectifier has only Silicon diode, the dual has 2 rectifier tubes or the option of silicon diode, and the triple has 3 rectifier tubes with the option of silicon diode.
Also remember, that unless you're playing a stadium, 100w stacks are pretty pointless. You ideally want the house to be doing the sound distribution, you just provide good tone. 2x12s and 1x12s can be better in that regard, as a 4x12 focusses a stupid amount of sound energy on the front row, and not the guitarist, so they just get loudness.
I think it depends what you play too. For metal and hard rock, nothing quite sounds like a 100W+ transformer pushing a 4x12. There's just something about the punch and girth you get with that combination that you cannot get with an open back combo or a low wattage amp. That goes for recording them too, that's why studios still use them. I actually prefer open back cabs/combo and lower watts for blues and cleans. I like a dirty clean though.
Guess I'll go against the grain. At least for the amps I've owned, the 6L6 have actually sounded a bit tighter to my ears. Slightly extended lowend and a little smoother, where the EL34 had more bark, and accentuated more mids and upper mids. Mainly depends on the circuit I guess, but I don't think EL34 are necessarily tighter than 6L6 across the board. Never tried them in the Recto, but they didn't tighten up my Mark IV, they actually added a bit of sag, in a good way though. I actually prefer the EL34 in most high gain applications, love the midrange snarl they bring out of an amp. Like was mentioned previously however, depends on the amp, heard them in a 5150 and didn't care for it at all.
depends, if you want one to power multiple pedals, the Onepot adapter is cheap and works decent enough if you don't have a ton of pedals. It can start to add noise when you get a bigger board however IME. That's around $20-25 I think, where the regular Dunlop adapters are around $12-14 iirc.
no, you don't want to use an AC powersupply with a DC pedal, you will fry it. It needs to be the same voltage, ie 9VDC, and have "at least" the current available that the pedal needs. The pedal will only draw the current it needs, so the adapter can have a much higher current rating. This is the idea behind why the One Spot adapters can work with multiple pedals. It needs to be the same voltage rating however.
by "proper" OD out of the HT5, do you mean actual power tube overdrive? The Blackstar has plenty of preamp gain without cranking it. The point of the small wattage is so you can start to get the poweramp coloring the sound at much lower vol levels. If you want fullblown powertube OD though, yeah, it gets pretty loud before the power tube really starts saturating.