Price reduced to $1450 plus shipping for UC members.
I have for sale a 2005 20th Anniversary Paul Reed Smith McCarty Soapbar in very good to excellent condition. I have it listed on Ebay here--***No ebay link***. Check out the photos there.

It's in really, really nice shape, with just a few imperfections that aren't readily apparent. The bridge is brand new (didn't want to sit outside in the winter buffing the original one), and the knobs & switch are new.

It sounds wonderful, and it's breaking my heart to have to sell it.

I have it listed on Ebay for $1615 plus shipping, which includes $15 for shipping insurance. I'll sell it to a UC member for $1515 (insurance included) plus shipping.

PM me if interested.
For months I've been looking on the internet for a photo of the rear of SRV's Charley guitar that shows the engraving. I've looked at tens of thousands of images. There's only one that shows any detail at all in the engraving on the neckplate, but it's blurred. You can't read the last two lines of type.

Does anyone know a source for a photo that shows the back clearly? Someone you know, someone who knew Stevie, etc?

Thanks for any replies.
bob493, that axetremecreations plate is completely wrong. The type isn't black. It's just plain engraved chrome.

I'm pretty sure that Jimmie Vaughan owns SRV's Charley, even though he has one that Charley made for him.

As I mentioned above, the actual wording depends upon who you read. You'll see one version in a zillion places because everybody sees it and repeats it.

This is the only photo I've found out of hundreds of thousands I viewed that shows the type on the plate:

I've been putting together an SRV Charley reproduction for months. I want it to be as faithful as possible. I've spent hundreds of hours researching various aspects of the guitar.

One little detail I've been working on is the engraving on the neck plate. Depending upon which author or website you read, the inscription is:

Presented to Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley
To Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley
Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley
Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84.

To the best of my knowledge, there's only one photograph on the internet that shows the neckplate well enough to even see letters, but the resolution is too low to read them. I can make out "Stevie Ray Vaughan", then two lines of type below that.

Has anyone seen the guitar up close and, if so, do you remember precisely what the wording is?

I know this is nitpicking, but I want this guitar to be as accurate as I can get it.

Thanks for any replies.
Soon I'm going to have to file a new nut. The slot on it are all standard .010 to .042 or whatever. I have .011, .013, .018, .028. 038, and .050.

I find file sets that are close but not right on. Is it possible to take a .026 file and work it side to side a bit to get a little extra width?

I want to get this project guitar exactly right.
I'm looking for some good quality nut files with round bottoms. I need .050, .038, .026, .018, .013 and .011.

I'd also pay to rent the files for a few days. I just have one nut to file.
I'm building a repro of SRV's Charley guitar. I already have Seymor Duncan lipstick pickups, but it's gnawing away at me that I don't have things exactly right because I don't have the longer original Danelectro pickups.

Does anyone have any experience with the long pickups? How they sound? Are they readily available?

Thanks for any replies.
There was three weeks between the time I did the grain filler and the body shop painting the guitar. I think it would have shifted by then.
I'm having n auto body shop paint a Warmoth Strat body i bought new. It will be pearl white.

I put down grain filler and sanded it smooth. It sat for a couple of weeks before i gave it to the shop. Everything was fine.

The put on the white base coat and two pearl coats on yesterday. Everything looked fine.

Today the applied two clear coats, and the seam in the exact middle of the body lifted a tiny bit down near the bottom and and up the back about four or five inches. It's not a lot, but you can definitely see it.

They're going to try filling and sanding the area, then blending paint again.

Anybody have any idea what's at work here?
I have for sale a used Paul Reed Smith aluminum stoptail wraparound bridge with studs. The thing shines like a little jewel. You can view photos of it on Ebay here:

There some very slight pitting on the first two squares on the top. I had to get the camera at just the right angle in order to pick them up. One of the studs has a little chewing on the slot from a screwdriver, but not bad.

$90 plus $6.50 shipping to UC members.
Thanks for the help. I do know the notes on the board, and it does help. The diagram really helped a lot. I've seen tons of other diagrams, but for once it made sense.
The CAGED system came up in my lessons a couple of years ago. I glossed over it and thought I'd come back to it later.

I've now come back to it, and it doesn't really make sense. The point, as I understand it, is that you can play different chords up and down the neck by using the same chord shapes. The problem I have is that the chord shapes usually bear little or no resemblance to the C,A, G, E, or D chord basic shapes. On top of that, while looking for, say, a G shape for a C chord, I'll find an A shape that sounds much better than the G shape in that area. It seems like it would be easier to memorize chords that I would be using.

Am I missing something?
I have a Peavey Classic 30 brown tweed amp that I've used very little. The condition is very near new.

It's 30 watt with a 12" Blue Marvel speaker.

It's not cheap to ship, but I can if you want. Otherwise it can be picked up in Decatur Alabama in the northern part of the state.

Photos can be viewed on Craigslist here:

Price for UG members is $300.
Never mind. I overheated part of the outer ring when I soldered on the ground wires. Time for a new new pot.
I'm assembling a Strat, and today put in the pickups, switch and pot.

I've never bothered to take a meter to the wiring on a guitar, but thought I'd check all my solder joints and wiring.

In measuring the resistance between the input tab and the sweep tab, I was expecting the resistance to steadily increase as I turned the volume knob down. It didn't, though. It would increase as I turned the knob lower, but at about the 5 mark, the resistance would decrease as I took the volume lower.

Is this normal?
I have a Gibson ES355 that weighs 13 pounds. I can't play it for long.

I didn't know Strats could get that heavy.

I called it a tremolo because tremolo is wavering the tone of a note. I was pretty sure it was a bend, but not 100%.
The solo in "Ain't Gonna Give Up On Love" is one of my favorites. At the 6:03 mark in this video-- --SRV does a cool tremolo with a chord. I can't figure out what chord, or how he's getting the tremolo. He doesn't look to be bending the strings, and it doesn't look like he's bending the neck. Bending strings is the only thing that seems logical.

Any idea what chord it is, and how he's getting the tremolo?
Edited to remove dumb question
I have no experience with guitar shop paint jobs. The only experience I have with paint jobs is doing them myself on cars, and having paint repairs done by body shops. In both cases with cars, the paint jobs needed wet sanding and buffing to get to a mirror finish.

I'm assuming that Fender, Gibson and other manufacturers don't spend time sanding and buffing, and that their guitars come off the line with mirror finishes. Do guitar shops likewise do mirror finishes, or do theirs require work afterwards?

Thanks for any replies.
What a great idea. I almost never use th volume control because the sound gets so muffled.
Thanks, Tallwood13. So this is the mysterious wiring that Charley Wirtz did on SRV's guitar.

I don't use the guitar's volume control much, as I don't like losing the treble as it's turned down.
I'm trying to build a replica of SRV's Charley guitar. I've read that Charley did some unusual wiring on that guitar.

I've only found one place on the internet that shows anything about the wiring. It's a place that sells a pre-wired Charley control set. It's here:

It's a very low-res photo, but the photo below is what it looks like to me. The one thing missing is a ground wire from the volume pot to the tone pot.

Does this wiring make any sense?

Thanks for any replies.

I'm trying to find out what shade of blue was in the white-blue flip flop paint job on Stevie Ray Vaughan's Charley guitar.

Has anyone here ever seen one of the reproductions made by Charley's?
I have a pair of new-in-the-package PRS nuts. They're marked "ACC-4204 Nut Wide Thin/Fat"

I forgot to include the part number, PRS #ACC-4122.
I have a PRS McCarty Drop-In tone control set. This I believe is for older McCarty's. It has the push-pull feature on the tone knob.

This is brand new in the package from PRS. I thought I'd need it, but don't.

"Flip flop" paint is also called "chameleon paint". It changes color depending upon your angle of view. It's been around for over 30 years. The paint on Stevie Ray Vaughan's Charley lipstick guitar was a white and blue flip flop. It's popular with the hip hop look today. Here's some examples:

I called the manufacturer, and they have a special primer for it. I don't have a paint booth setup anymore, so I'll have to ask the custom car shop to shoot the primer.
I've been trying to find out what an appropriate primer would be for automotive flip flop paint applied to a fresh alder body. I've read that B.I.N. is a good sand-able primer, but don't know if it reacts with enamels or urethanes.

I called Charley's Guitar Shop to ask about having them do the white-blue flip flop paint, but they want $650 for a body. A custom car shop in a nearby city can do it for $200 to $300.

Suggestions as to primers? Thanks for any replies
Mighty Mite is good quality?

A sharpie won't do it. Ebony stain will.

So, I can use the neck I have, get a new body with new electronics and hardware, get it painted, sell the existing body with electronics and hardware, and the whole project should cost me about $500. Not bad.
I did some reading on dying rosewood to look like ebony, and the results sounded terrible. Maybe somebody else here has had better experience.

My total costs including body, neck, hardware and paint come to about $1300. That's a lot for a fake Fender. If I could find used parts, it would be more palatable. Hard to find used hardtail Strat parts, though, especially with ebony.
You're probably right. I'd just like to keep the cost down. But a fret job would be $200+ and who knows how much for a new fret board. That's about the price of a new Warmoth neck.

Maybe I'll just take the rosewood fret boarded MIM Strat neck I have, and have a very good luthier put on an ebony board and new frets.
wouldn't expect it to be particularly cheap or have good resale value.

I'm not concerned about resale value. This would just be a fun project. If I can get it to sound good, that would be great.
I want to build a copy of SRV's "Charley" guitar. I don't know why, since I'm not a big fan of white guitars. Just something I have an itch to do.

It would be easy enough to find a good used neck if it didn't require ebony for the fretboard. It's hard to find a vintage neck with ebony. An alder body routed for a hardtail bridge is only $200+ from Warmoth. With a two-pot pickguard it's just a few bucks more.

I want to find some original Danelectro lipstick pickups, too.
Thanks for the replies. I'll consider Warmoth for a body, but they're pricey for a neck. Nearly $500 with ebony and frets. If their frets need to be finished, I might as well take a neck I have and have a luthier do new frets.

I've been taking my guitars apart and setting them up enough that I'm comfortable doing the job.