I have for sale a 2005 20th Anniversary Paul Reed Smith McCarty Soapbar in very good to excellent condition. I have it listed on Ebay here--***No ebay link***. Check out the photos there.
It's in really, really nice shape, with just a few imperfections that aren't readily apparent. The bridge is brand new (didn't want to sit outside in the winter buffing the original one), and the knobs & switch are new.
It sounds wonderful, and it's breaking my heart to have to sell it.
I have it listed on Ebay for $1615 plus shipping, which includes $15 for shipping insurance. I'll sell it to a UC member for $1515 (insurance included) plus shipping.
For months I've been looking on the internet for a photo of the rear of SRV's Charley guitar that shows the engraving. I've looked at tens of thousands of images. There's only one that shows any detail at all in the engraving on the neckplate, but it's blurred. You can't read the last two lines of type.
Does anyone know a source for a photo that shows the back clearly? Someone you know, someone who knew Stevie, etc?
I've been putting together an SRV Charley reproduction for months. I want it to be as faithful as possible. I've spent hundreds of hours researching various aspects of the guitar.
One little detail I've been working on is the engraving on the neck plate. Depending upon which author or website you read, the inscription is:
Presented to Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley To Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84--Charley Stevie Ray Vaughan--More in '84.
To the best of my knowledge, there's only one photograph on the internet that shows the neckplate well enough to even see letters, but the resolution is too low to read them. I can make out "Stevie Ray Vaughan", then two lines of type below that.
Has anyone seen the guitar up close and, if so, do you remember precisely what the wording is?
I know this is nitpicking, but I want this guitar to be as accurate as I can get it.
I'm building a repro of SRV's Charley guitar. I already have Seymor Duncan lipstick pickups, but it's gnawing away at me that I don't have things exactly right because I don't have the longer original Danelectro pickups.
Does anyone have any experience with the long pickups? How they sound? Are they readily available?
I'm having n auto body shop paint a Warmoth Strat body i bought new. It will be pearl white.
I put down grain filler and sanded it smooth. It sat for a couple of weeks before i gave it to the shop. Everything was fine.
The put on the white base coat and two pearl coats on yesterday. Everything looked fine.
Today the applied two clear coats, and the seam in the exact middle of the body lifted a tiny bit down near the bottom and and up the back about four or five inches. It's not a lot, but you can definitely see it.
They're going to try filling and sanding the area, then blending paint again.
There some very slight pitting on the first two squares on the top. I had to get the camera at just the right angle in order to pick them up. One of the studs has a little chewing on the slot from a screwdriver, but not bad.
The CAGED system came up in my lessons a couple of years ago. I glossed over it and thought I'd come back to it later.
I've now come back to it, and it doesn't really make sense. The point, as I understand it, is that you can play different chords up and down the neck by using the same chord shapes. The problem I have is that the chord shapes usually bear little or no resemblance to the C,A, G, E, or D chord basic shapes. On top of that, while looking for, say, a G shape for a C chord, I'll find an A shape that sounds much better than the G shape in that area. It seems like it would be easier to memorize chords that I would be using.
I'm assembling a Strat, and today put in the pickups, switch and pot.
I've never bothered to take a meter to the wiring on a guitar, but thought I'd check all my solder joints and wiring.
In measuring the resistance between the input tab and the sweep tab, I was expecting the resistance to steadily increase as I turned the volume knob down. It didn't, though. It would increase as I turned the knob lower, but at about the 5 mark, the resistance would decrease as I took the volume lower.
The solo in "Ain't Gonna Give Up On Love" is one of my favorites. At the 6:03 mark in this video-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=820u5aQ-HRg --SRV does a cool tremolo with a chord. I can't figure out what chord, or how he's getting the tremolo. He doesn't look to be bending the strings, and it doesn't look like he's bending the neck. Bending strings is the only thing that seems logical.
Any idea what chord it is, and how he's getting the tremolo?
I have no experience with guitar shop paint jobs. The only experience I have with paint jobs is doing them myself on cars, and having paint repairs done by body shops. In both cases with cars, the paint jobs needed wet sanding and buffing to get to a mirror finish.
I'm assuming that Fender, Gibson and other manufacturers don't spend time sanding and buffing, and that their guitars come off the line with mirror finishes. Do guitar shops likewise do mirror finishes, or do theirs require work afterwards?
I've been trying to find out what an appropriate primer would be for automotive flip flop paint applied to a fresh alder body. I've read that B.I.N. is a good sand-able primer, but don't know if it reacts with enamels or urethanes.
I called Charley's Guitar Shop to ask about having them do the white-blue flip flop paint, but they want $650 for a body. A custom car shop in a nearby city can do it for $200 to $300.
So, I can use the neck I have, get a new body with new electronics and hardware, get it painted, sell the existing body with electronics and hardware, and the whole project should cost me about $500. Not bad.
I did some reading on dying rosewood to look like ebony, and the results sounded terrible. Maybe somebody else here has had better experience.
My total costs including body, neck, hardware and paint come to about $1300. That's a lot for a fake Fender. If I could find used parts, it would be more palatable. Hard to find used hardtail Strat parts, though, especially with ebony.
I want to build a copy of SRV's "Charley" guitar. I don't know why, since I'm not a big fan of white guitars. Just something I have an itch to do.
It would be easy enough to find a good used neck if it didn't require ebony for the fretboard. It's hard to find a vintage neck with ebony. An alder body routed for a hardtail bridge is only $200+ from Warmoth. With a two-pot pickguard it's just a few bucks more.
I want to find some original Danelectro lipstick pickups, too.
Thanks for the replies. I'll consider Warmoth for a body, but they're pricey for a neck. Nearly $500 with ebony and frets. If their frets need to be finished, I might as well take a neck I have and have a luthier do new frets.
I've been taking my guitars apart and setting them up enough that I'm comfortable doing the job.