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What do you mean by "last for years"? Are you talking about electrics? hardware? strings? woods? finish? etc.
Looks like the Fender website lists the S-1 for the 2010 strats. http://www.deluxeguitar.com/207/the-fender-american-deluxe-stratocaster-s-1-switching-system/

Easier way of checking which system is on yours is to go to position 2 and identify which pickups are selected.
Quote by swany51
Well, I have one and it is awesome. It feels small in my hands but it plays tones and sounds that I can't get outta any of my other guitars. Schecter is a fine guitar builder and they proove it everywhere.


Got any pictures?
Quote by Robbgnarly
Is the guitar making any unusual sounds like humming, excessive feedback/squealing? If not then you could probably leave the wire be. But it is a ground wire, so connecting it to ground is not gonna hurt anything.


Also if your guitar has active pickups then you do not need to worry about the ground wire being connected.
Not a bad guitar, about on par with the RG321. See if you can get it any lower but still at $175 it's a good buy.
How much are we talking? Bill Gates cheap or hobo down the street cheap? I've heard good things about dragonfire pickups and I know that they sell pre loaded pickguards for strats also pretty good prices on them for the budget player.
Quote by Offworld92
What's your opinion? If you don't think it's the bridge, what do you think is the likely culprit?


Your stringing method, maybe you're not tightening up your tuners enough, your neck is slowly cracking away from the joining area.

I forgot to ask but is this for 1 certain brand of string or for different brands? What tuning are you in? Is this applicable for just 1 string or all strings? How much string length do you have remaining in your tuners?
Quote by lglitchl
Hope that helps


Nope. What don't you like about your current guitar? Do you plan on changing tunings often?
Just looks like your standard case of oxidisation that's happening on your saddles. Nothing that should cause any tuning issues. But if you still want to change bridges check out the Gotoh 510 Series, all the gotoh items I've used have been high quality and reliable.
Silly question but how old are the strings on it? How tight have you done the lock on the tuners? Would be really weird for the EC to not hold tune though since my Eclipse has been in tune for months at time besides those times when it's either been freaking hot or freezing cold.
Quote by Offworld92
I don't want to change arbitrarily, I want to because it goes out of tune really quickly, and the bridge is the most likely candidate for that, I think.


What makes you say that? I would think a T.O.M bridge be fairly stable since it doesn't have that many moving parts besides saddle screws and your studs it just sits there and does nothing.
Why do you need to replace your 2 point trem? Not sure what country you're from but ebay is a viable option if you know roughly string spacing and stud spacing or maybe your store could order in a 2 point trem.
http://en.euroguitar.com/guitar/cort/ad/810e/131605.html

Still not much of a deal. Cort guitars are good though I liked all the ones I've touched.
Quote by Bigbazz
The point is missed, it's about essencially reducing wear and/or the risk of damage. It requires no extra effort so thus there is no valid reason to not do it. Wood is a sensitive material, why not take the extra care?


Because for unscrewing you don't need to. For screwing yeah you can take the extra precaution but unless you know the proper torque and angle that you need then what's the point in doing it? You could be over torquing already or you could be under torquing and that totally defeats the point in torquing in a pattern.

Like I asked before, when you take a wheel nut off a wheel what do you think happens to the rest of the nuts and more importantly the wheel? Or how about we reverse the situation and instead of taking a nut off you remove a wheel bolt. Would it be crazy to assume that around the removed bolt area the stresses will be lower?

Quote by Arby911
If you really want to know the why behind the what, research elastic interaction and preload scatter. It works both ways, tightening or loosening.


Thank you for this. That said I have not found much on elastic interaction/bolt crosstalk and preload scatter with regards to loosening or unbolting connected joints but I've bought another engineering book last night that was written a while back so it may feature something. But I've rarely come across problems that require loosening in a certain manner (only on preloaded parts and cylinder heads).
Quote by Bigbazz
Wrong again, it's just as important for unbolting with the relief of pressure/tension. It isn't "my methodology" I told you before, you're clutching at straws here honestly I don't see what you're trying to achieve.

It isn't me you're arguing with. Like I said this stuff is taught in schools, books etc. I don't think I've ever seen it not done this way in my life. I'l say this, my grandad was a carpenter, my brother and best mate are both joiners/carpenters (brother runs his own joinery) and my dad was an engineer. So perhaps I've been around this kind of mentality more than most but what I'm talking about to them would be considered just basic knowledge, something you do without thinking about it, something that needs no discussion.


Well lets skip over me asking whether or not you did your screws up to the correct torque or whether you even bothered thinking about the wheel nut problem that would let you see the problem from my side.

I've only found 1 example of unbolting in a certain manner and that's on cylinder heads and they are torqued up in a certain pattern originally as well. Otherwise I can think of any assembly that are preloaded that you'll need to do the same but guitar necks are neither preloaded or cylinder heads. So yeah I don't know I've looked through my mechanical engineering book and they don't talk about unbolting so maybe it's an old time thing that I just haven't grown into. Silly modern engineers what do they know right?

Either way the way I see it when you're undoing a guitar neck you're removing a clamping load so if anything you'd be removing tension on the actual neck around the heel area which is plenty thick in most cases.
Quote by Bigbazz
I find it quite laughable that people can be so ignorant with this, I'm stating a widely used method in all forms of engineering, joinery and other crafts, a method instructed in books, taught in schools here, something considered absolutely basic common sense when it comes to working on a guitar.


So when you bought your guitar did you pull it all apart and then put it back together and torqued up all the screws to the correct tension? But before that did you work out how much each bolt needs to be torqued up to? No point in saying you'll need to do this bolt up this amount before going to the next bolt then back if you aren't even going to do them to the right torque, right?

Like I said your methodology has it's merits, for unbolting a guitar neck...not so much.

Edit: I'll try and explain what I mean. You have a flat tire and pull over on the side of the road. You jack the car up and undo the wheel nuts. You take 1 wheel nut off. What happens to the rest of the nuts. Do the forces exerted on the wheel from the nut increase, decrease or stay the same?
Quote by Bigbazz
Why do you wear a seatbelt in a car?

Does it require any real extra effort? no
Does it reduce the risk of damage? yes

So then why would you not do it. You're making the mistake of thinking I've sat here and really thought about this, when infact I was simply taught to do it this way, somebody else did all the thinking and all I am showing is knowledge that has been passed on to me.

The guy asked how to take off a neck, and I told him how to do it in the correct way. Can you think of even one practical reason why you wouldn't do it this way?


It's a law over here But your example isn't that great either see a seat belt has been proven to save lives, taking off bolts in a random order on a guitar neck hasn't broken anything yet. Unless you know of one?

What you're saying is you're taking something someone has said to you and not made sense of it. That's a great way to spread misinformation. Did you also know that if you have sex you will get pregnant and die, I was informed by a knowledgeable gentleman on this subject who may or may not have been on mean girls.

As for practical reasons well time would be a pretty good one. But lets be honest if your neck is off as is you've probably got bigger issues

Edit: Just to clarify myself I'm not hating on your method of removing in a certain pattern it helps on assemblies where you have things under preload, or when you tighten up large assemblies. However on a guitar neck where it will see 70kg of tension across the strings and handles it fine do you think fully unscrewing a screw will do anything?
Quote by Bigbazz
I just think you don't understand. You do this when you put on a car wheel too (or you're supposed to), or when tightening up the bolts on a piece of machinery. It isn't about how well built it is, it's about having "even" tension accross the whole surface, and avoiding over stressing single points. It's not about "big movements" as you're imagining, but tolerences.


You're overthinking this. What damage do you think the wood is going to incur as a result of not removing screws out in a manner like you say?

I agree with MrFlibble you just need to line your holes up correctly and screw them in. Pretty hard to stuff it up if your 4 holes are lined up correctly everything is fine.
Quote by SteveHOC
Why don't you post a picture?


Or a description...
Quote by HammerParty
I actually thought about doing this, especially when I move if the walls are thin. Can't crank up a tube amp in an apartment sadly.


Yup I've got my HD500 running through a set of headphones while my Fireball and cab sit next to it doing jack shit. The good thing about the HD500 is that you can run it however you want. Whether it be through headphones, frfr speakers/monitors, guitar cabinet, computer, etc.
I demand more pics dammit. Loving that binding as well Sexy guitar overall.
Quote by HammerParty
Can you not use a pod with Powered Monitors? That's always another option, especially if volume is an issue if you can.


Bingo, only get the HD500 if you plan on doing it like this IMO. No point in grabbing a unit like the HD500 if all you want is just the effects.
Quote by Wmheadbanger
most of the s series here has wizard 2 neck....


They've gone to Wizard III now but so has the RG470, it's only when you get to the prestige range or in the older MIJ RG will you get the really thin necks.
Quote by Dave_Mc
yo phil, long time no see


Hey it's THAT GUY. Hope everything has been well in your life

Quote by Wmheadbanger
the one i m thinking to buy has edge 2 zp3fe donno much about its quality though know its not good as the original edge.


I really haven't had much contact with the Edge Zero 2 but if you really can't get your hands on an older MIJ RG then with a decent setup you should be fine. Maybe something the S series by Ibanez would interest you the trems on them rely on ball bearings rather than conventional knife edges so no worn out knife edges anymore.
You buy a Hello Kitty Squier but don't make a NGD thread? Seriously WTF man.
Quote by MR.AlEXLIFESON
And do you think it's better to go with the FR or not have one? I dont know if there is a way you could switch the guitar to hardtail if I dont like the FR.


Depends on what you play and what you want to play really, I've got a few guitars with a FR and honestly 80% of the time I play I don't even put in the whammy bar because I have no use for it. You can always "block" the trem effectively making it a hardtail. I think you should make the trip to a guitar store and see if you can try a guitar out with a floyd rose just to get used to the little nuances that you get with the bridge.
If you don't mind going used any of the Ibanez RG prestige models will do the same thing. Actually any of the older Ibanez RG MIJ models will be fine for you.
Quote by cemges
Hm sorry but it sounds like a chinese fake. Although wtf is chinese copy of a chinese guitar? Whatever.


What makes you say it's a Chinese fake as opposed to a LTD with an ESP sticker on it?
Depends on what year Rg470 it is if it's before '94 and still carries the Edge bridge it'll be fine but if it's after you could look at the Rg570 which is pretty much the same guitar but with the Edge or Lo-Pro Edge bridge and different output jack mount.
Quote by Nimbus456
Oh, right. Grovers it is!
Now to do my research and find out who sells this stuff to AUS.


Stew-mac are worth a look, you'll be able to pick up your nut and also pots, switches, wires etc. there as well. I think All Parts also sell grover tuners. Remember to get tuners that'll line up in your current holes unless you like drilling holes. Alternatively there's like 6 or 7 schecter locking tuners up on ebay now.
Quote by kangaxxter
You like the color of Ebony? Get Ebony. You like the color of Rosewood? Get Rosewood. Not much more to it than that.


Gotta say this, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference in tones between the two if they were for the fretboard.
Quote by Nimbus456
Im talking in AUD though, import prices are through the roof.
And no, just schecter locking tuners - it seems they don't like to use grovers or anything like that very often.


Dunno mate these past couple of years I've seen prices for most stuff start to come down. Excluding pickups your nut, electronics, and tuners could be sorted for under $100 easily.

edit: FWIW you could get a new EC-1000FM (with seymour duncans) for $1200 or alternatively if you don't going used you could pick up an Eclipse for roughly the same.
Good afternoon sir I am a Nigerian doctor who has been left in the presence of a large sum of money. I would like to buy my son a prince a birthday gift and came across your ad. Please contact me soon and I will make a payment via paypal.
The 7th and 8th string are definitely not touching any frets when you play it open?
Quote by VanTheKraut
I was going to do that the last time I was in the market and someone raised some concern about LTD cutting some corners as far as not putting in an electrical part that is not necessary for actives but necessary for passives, making a swap impossible, can't recall what it could be though.


The only thing that comes to my mind would be your ground. As you know actives don't ground to the bridge but passives do so if LTD were cheap they wouldn't drill the extra hole that would go to the bridge to route a wire. Not terribly difficult to do but probably something most people aren't comfortable doing.
Let me present you the ESP Doraemon.


Click me
Quote by Wisthekiller
New strings can be a bit treble-y. Try putting them in boiling water for 20 minutes.


Or just keep playing them, eventually that new string sound goes away unless you're using Elixir's at which point enjoy them for the next few weeks lol.
http://ibanez.com/parts/2002_PARTS/el_guitar/spec/EDR470EXJBF_1M_02.html That site should have a whole list of components and the part number you need for them. You got 3 options you can go to rich at www.ibanezrules.com who stocks a wide variety of parts, you can go and do the ebay route or you can go to your local ibanez seller and order parts from them.
Pickups (obviously), pots and input jack. Ideally I'd say for you to do it yourself it's just basic soldering that's required although I think the more recent EMG's are all now solderless and pretty much clipping connectors so you don't need to solder at all. Have a look on the EMG website and take a peek at the installation instructions and see if you feel confident with it, if you don't take it to a store.

edit: I see you put in a sneaky edit. The battery can go in your control cavity along with the pots and pickup selector switch if it has the space which I would think it does. Just check by putting in a 9v battery and see if it can close it or not.
Quote by JustRooster
I heard only buttheads play Gibsons. Fact.


I can confirm this.