^that one from smallbear works, but it doesn't have the detent at the mid point.. so you'll just have to guess or listen for the 50/50 point.
looks good to me, just a note- the switch will work like you've drawn it, but the little jumper from one side to the other isn't really needed in this case. You only need that jumper when you're using two tone pots, to have them in the circuit in certain positions. that said, it'll still work like you have it

edit: oops, I wasn't even thinking.. the volume pot will be backwards if you wire it like that (assuming your diagram is the view of the bottom of the pot). Just swap the outer lugs and you'll be okay
Apply for the other job and see how it goes. 6 months seems like enough time to me (depending on the position of course), and you're almost at a year already. Depending on the flexibility of the new company, maybe suggest taking a month before starting, so the old department has time to find/begin training someone new, rather than the usual two weeks
this should go in the wiring thread, but I can help you out

its not exactly replacing the volume pot with an on off switch, but its still pretty simple.

you'd wire the humbucker directly to the output jack (using the seymour duncan colour code, that just means black goes to the tip of the jack, and green+bare get grounded to the sleeve.)

then you'd just wire in a killswitch. if you have a SPDT switch (three solder lugs, and it may be labelled as 'on-on'), wire the middle lug to the tip of the jack, and one of the other lugs to the sleeve.

if you have a spst (two solder lugs and usually labelled 'on-off'), just wire one pole to the tip and the other to the sleeve
Quote by BreeBreeMiikey
Drew up a schem for the layout, hope its right. Electronics aren't my strong point lol.

either it isn't showing up or you forgot to attach it, lol

if you want HSS with just a volume and a 5-way, you can just follow this diagram, but just ignore the tone pot
with a toggle you wouldn't be able to get bridge/middle/neck, just based on the way it could do it with a 3-way blade though

but you're right, a 5-ways probably more practical afterall
Quote by BreeBreeMiikey
So I'm wanting to do an hss layout with one volume and a 3 way toggle. Is this plausible with a 500k volume pot? Or will the singles sound wrong?

what do you want to 3-way to do? neck+middle/ neck+middle+bridge/ bridge?
you only have a few options with a toggle 3-way, but that seems like the most logical one

anyway, the 500k pot will make the singles sound brighter.. depending on your pickups/amp/style/ears it may be too bright, but you could always add a tone pot if it's too much.
or you could add a couple resistors and capacitors and make the wiring a little fancier, to take a bit of the high end out of the singles' sound.

To be honest you'll probably be fine with 500ks. I have them in my strat (SSS) and like the sound quite a bit. I'd rather have a 500k pot and bright singles than a 250k pot and a humbucker thats too dark, but again- thats just my opinion. it's up to you really

you have a couple other options to choose from as well..
if the singles are going to be selected together at all times, you can either have them in series or parallel. you could also have a switch to choose between the two. What you decide to do about that will change the wiring a bit, so I'll wait to hear what you want before throwing together a diagram
i have one of my guitars' straps screwed in like hasn't been a problem so far

a better option would be to get real straplocks, not just the big ugly plastic ones. ones like this for example:,_parts/Electric_guitar:_Strap_buttons/Dunlop_Straplok_System.html
Quote by Slayer74
I am not sure let's just assume they are not. I just want to get this dam thing wired using what I have,a 5 way import lever switch with 8 inline terminals and no markings on it,2 CTS audio taper 500k pots 1 volume 1 tone,mono input jack,2 2 wire humbuckers,1 capcitor.I will be using this to play metal so the best way to wire for it is what I need using only what I have. Thanks \m/

if they're two wire pickups then they can't be coil split..unless you want to take the pickups apart and do a sort of unnecessarily complicated mod to them

your best bet is really getting your hands on a 3-way, but if you're set on using what you have, you could wire it as if it were a 3-way...but your positions would be:
neck, both, both, both, bridge

if thats something you want
as long as it still takes 9v you're all good

the difference would be that (being in North America), I'd power a pedal with my 115VAC to 9vDC adapter, while you would power the same pedal with a 230VAC to 9vDC adapter. either way the pedal still only gets 9v
I didn't find a schematic with a quick search, but I'm sure you can dig one up if you have to

it should be fairly easy though. I don't know off the top of my head if the pots are pcb-mount or just wired in, but either way it's a fairly simple job. just 3 spots to desolder and solder
if you're going to be spraying a clear coat, the whole body should be bare. So the pickups (along with everything else on the body) should be out
it does matter, but it depends which pot is broken. if you have the pedal you can look at the pot and it should say the value right on it. if not, you could measure it with a multimeter or look at a schematic
I had a pair of their regular soapbars in my tele build, and they were actually really good considering what I paid.
I didn't find them as middy and chunky as I expected, but definitely still a good budget buy
it's super hard to see whats going on because of the picture size, so upload a better quality one to a site like photobucket, then you'll be good to post a proper sized picture
in a terminal strip like that, doesn't each wire just get connected to the wire opposite from it?

I've never actually used one, but that's my understanding of it at least.. so each thing listed on the top row is just connected to whatever's listed on the bottom row. like 'audio pot' goes to 'phono jack +', photocell gets connected to 'phono jack -', ect.

whats the picture from, by the way?
'better' is super subjective, but I'd go with the full sized humbucker if I was doing it
my tele has two p90s with a series/parallel switch in it.. its not exactly what you have in mind since they're not directly side by side, but it pretty much sounds like a really hot dark p90 when they're in series
Quote by Youthanized
Anyone want to give me an idea on how to wire 1-9v battery, 2 Band Eq, 1 - vol switch, 1 - blend switch, 1 Bass and 1 - treble. I've been following a schematic but thus far have had no luck getting the guitar to produce any sounds. This is a schematic.

or could be this. I'm not sure.

Any help would be great.

it really depends what EQ you're using..the diagrams just show a block illustrating where the EQ goes, but nothing's labelled on it as far as in/out/power/ground/to/from which pickup, ect.

whats the eq out of?
I'm assuming you mean 0.1uF capacitors, not transistors?

some places will list 0.1uF as 100nF, they're the same value. they should say 104 on them

as for the diodes, as people said just grab a bunch and experiment, though the 2 in the schematic shouldn't be super hard to track down at most places. where are you buying parts?
the super distortion IS 4-conductor....

even if it wasn't you'd still be able to install it though. it's also available in an f-spaced model, so there's no issues at all. It's pretty much a drop-in replacement, even down to the colour code
you could, but the sound would be pretty bad
it's a little tough to understand since the page is in German, but its certainly possible to do with an HSS setup. the only difference from the diagram on the page is that the bridge pickup's hot wire would be coming from a humbucker, not single coil.
to add a coil split switch, you'd wire it the same as any other coil split switch really..the dummy coil doesn't interfere with adding it.

why would you have a 3-way switch though? as opposed to a 5-way?
there's a pretty simple way to rig up an old calculator to act as a counter

basically you need a little lobe on the rotating shaft that presses a micro switch, or a reed switch, then you just hook up the switch to the plus button on the calculator

if you press the '1' button on the calculator, every time the 'plus' is pressed, the display goes up by one.

there's a few little how tos on youtube if you want a visual aid
Quote by Phoenix V
Been getting into installing a killswitch on some of my guitars. With killswitches, for the love of god use something that looks good with the guitar. You can keep your kitchen oven toggle switches or Buckethead big red clown buttons.

This is what I ended up using. Low profile, normally open, push to close contact, sleek and sturdy. MTBF is 100,000+ cycles. It's out of the way but instantly accessible when I need. Wired directly across the output jack hot and ground. Works like a charm and in my opinion looks good.

Also drilled and mounted one to my Flying V pickguard last night and it looks like the boss. Didn't take any pics though.

nice switch choice and placement
it looks like you scratched up your finish a bit while drilling though.. I'll add you pic to the first post along with the others if you like
Quote by Rory Kavanagh
I'm doing up my old Ibanez (its an SA260). So I want to install a killswitch in the form of a push/pull pot. What would be the best way to install this in? The guitar has 1 master volume and 1 master tone pot and a 5-way switch. I was thinking of using the master volume as the killswitch pot...... (If thats a good idea)

it doesn't really matter whether you make the volume or tone the push-pull, it just comes down to your preference really. wiring the switch would be the exact same either way

just keep in mind you cant really get a stutter effect with a push/pull
Quote by Alice-Gardenia
i have an ibanez with 2 humbuckers, a seymour duancan 59 with the metal braiding, and an epi classic with 5 wires, (black, bare, green, red, and white) 1 tone and 1 volume. the volume and tone are wired and ready to go, but on a 5 way switch that has the contacts in a straight line, what gets wired to what?

refer to the 'import' switch in this diagram:

that should get the switch cleared up, but did you also need help with the colour colour coding or anything?
Quote by jamiels
Could anyone find me a wiring diagram for a friend?
It's a Squier Classic Vibe 50s tele (1 volume, 1 tone, with a standard-ibanez-style 3 way switch), and I'm trying to figure a way to wire in a Seymour Duncan Phat-Cat P90 in the neck and a Dimarzio Tone-Zone dual blade humbucker in the bridge
Regards, Jamie

EDIT: If some kind soul could check if that would work (the MSpaint looks dodgy as hell), and if it does link me to somewhere with information on converting between LP style 3-way and an ibanez-style, I would love them.

looks fine to me, but keep in mind that seymour duncan and dimarzio have different colour codes.. so instead of the red and white being soldered together as shown in the picture, you'll solder the black and white on your pickup. then use red as hot (where red is in the picture)

for the switch, is it an ibanez brand one, or just an ibanez-style switch? like the same you'd find on a tele?
if it's just a generic 3-way, use this diagram to help you out

if it's actually out of an ibanez I may need to know the actual model it's out of though..sometimes ibanez make really strange custom switches to get odd wiring combinations, which are tricky to figure out a way to wire 'normally'

hope that helps
you can add a resistor in series with the delay time pot to add a bit more time. unfortunately though the 'time' pot on most delay pedals is already designed to give the shortest and longest possible times based on the chip it uses..any time I've modded a delay to give longer times (only 3 or 4 times to be honest, so I'm not sure this applies to EVERY delay pedal), the longer times end up distorted and lo-fi.

of course, that makes it super cool sounding for lo-fi things, but not so useful for most applications
I've got a high A on my 7 and it's just fine as long as I use the right gauge strings..

that being said, the nut would be a bit of an'd obviously need to set the guitar up again when you change to such a drastically different string set and tuning, but the nut isn't so forgiving and you could have problems. your best bet may be using a heavy set of strings when tuning to a high A, and as light a a gauge as possible when playing with a low B. your sizes still woudn't line up, but that'll get you as close as you can

to be honest though, I think that eventually you'll just find yourself comfortable with one tuning or the other and stick with that rather than going through the hassle of changing your whole setup..
I've done it with a dowel and superglue..sort of the same idea as wire+super glue, but probably a bit more sturdy

that or pull the glue off the screws, it's usually a bit messy but do-able
I find JJ's rather dark..from my experience I've liked them in the power section more than in the preamp, but it all really does come down to your preference.
personally I'd go with the JJ 6L6's and some nice brighter preamp tubes..maybe mullards?
how weak is the signal right now? mine's super low output, so it may just be the nature of those pickups..probably best to replace things where you can though just to be sure
Quote by Metalfan41
Is it possible to use the new EMG HZs with the 5 pin connector wires with normal pickups? I'm not sure how they come out the end where they would plug into the buss, but I believe they got from 5 wires to 3. How would you go about wiring that to a normal pickup selector switch?

it should be, but it means cutting the quick connect end off of the HZ's. once you've done that it's just a matter of figuring out which wire is which in relation to a 'typical' wiring setup, either by following colour codes or by testing with a multimeter
Quote by xXDeviousPacoXx
Hey guys I got a question. I recently bought two DPDT switches, one that is center off and the other toggles between poles like in the diagram from this site,
It's in the DPDT switches section and I have the option between A or B selection. Also I have a SPDT that I got to replace the one that was faulty on my LTD EX-50. Anyways getting to my question, I was like on that same site and I was looking at coil cut switching and the 'guitar solo' switch. I was wonder, with the switches I have right now would I be able to make this set up using these switches? Or is there something else I can do with it? I know I can do one of these set up but I was wonder if you guys knew for sure.

if you want a solo switch as well as a coil split switch (assuming the split switch effects both pickups at the same time), you'll want two 2-position DPDTs. you can do it with the ones you have now, but it won't really be ideal..
the 2-way one you have now could be used as the solo switch, and the on/off/on as the split switch. the only thing is that the split switch will have two positions that don't split the pickups, while the third position is split mode. so like I said, it'll work, you'd just usually use an on/on
I figured I'd post in here rather than just reply to your message, so it's out there if anyone els eis looking for help

the switches were mostly working on mine when I got it, they just needed some cleaning. But they're meant to just be killswitches for the pickups rather than something that works in all 3 positions, which is pretty weird..

one thing to maybe look out for is that in the close up picture of your switch, the braided shield of the wire going to the output looks dangerously close to the left terminal of the switch, so it may be shorting out your signal intermittently

are you getting sound at all right now though? or just trying to figure out if the 3-ways are actually supposed to work as 3-ways?

here's two pictures of mine that I never ended up posting..though they may not be much help:

there's a wiring thread for this, but here you are anyway

i just took a screenshot and added two wires, so hopefully it makes sense

the thing that's probably confusing you is that in the g&l diagram (is it this one you're looking at?), the tone control is technically before the volume control since it's a master volume, with the bass cut after.. which you obviously can't do with separate volumes

that being said, everything looks good in yours except for the wire to the output and the value of the bass cut pot (using the drawing I linked at least).

just move the red wire between the output and the bass pot from the middle lug to the upper one. otherwise your bass pot won't do anything
nice, I've built a few fuzzes lately, but sorta found the same many different variations as there are, I'll only ever really have the need for stuff though

and cool amp, I've definitely never seen anything like it before. whered you pick that up?