GFS, Dragonfire (not force ), Irongear, and a few other places are pretty good for making cheap but still decent quality pickups..I'd say they're worth it if you don't want to spend a bunch of money

What amp do you play through though? getting new pickups won't do much through a bad amp, but they'll make quite the difference on a good amp
the only nitro neck I have is on one of my builds, but it doesn't have that problem at all.. I'd second everyone's posts and just say let it be for now and see if not waxing it helps
I think I might try to build a banjo for under 100GBP, just to do it really. That'd be fun

I also have a build planned for the summer when I'm working full time again. It'll be over 100GBP so it'd fall into the unlimited category, but it won't be anything too out of the ordinary..I think I might as well sign up here for the sake of doing it, but we'll see how it goes
Quote by conor-figgy
Never mid, I just checked Ibanez's website and they have a wiring diagram for what I want on my guitar. I feel silly now...

Can you tell me how this diagram relates to my new pups which have more wires? ie. the diagram shows white and red while my pups have red white black and green. As far as I know, the green soldered to the ground and the black and white are soldered together. Does this mean that I can solder the black and white to where the white goes on the diagram and the red to where the red goes?

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you've almost got it right, aaalmost

black and white together actually go where red does in the diagram,and red on your pickup goes where white in the diagram goes. It's kind of a confusing colour translation, but thatll have you good to go
Quote by conor-figgy
Sorry for the late reply. My problem is that the blank connection on my 5 way selector isn't the same as the blank connection as in the diagram and it's not just the opposite way around. It's like the third or fourth one in I think. I've looked at a few different diagrams and each had a different blank connection.

I just want to replace my stock bridge and neck pups with my new dimarzio pups. They're both humbuckers with 4 wires each and a bare ground. I'm leaving the stock middle single coil in as I can't afford a new one just yet. I want them in the general Bridge, Bridge and Middle, Middle, Middle and Neck, Neck 5 way selections.


what does your current selector do?
sometimes ibanez uses their own specialty switches for different combinations, which gets really confusing

If you just want standard B, B+M, M, M+N, N positions, then your best bet is really just to buy a new switch along with your new pickups
Quote by flannel_89
Just noticed I set the tremolo on upside-down in the pics, whoops. Also note the bridge pickup is broken at the baseplate and the windings are starting to come undone. I will eventually be purchasing a replacement, have seen them on eBay for between 10 and 50 bucks.

haha, for a second I was looking at it wondering if it's a lefty or not, then i figured out what was going on

if the windings of the bridge pickup are actually coming undone then I'm assuming it might be completely dead.. but it you want to try getting it rewound, I've been thinking about getting into winding and rewinding pickups lately
Quote by flannel_89
Cool, this should work then. One other difference is the potentiometer values, the diagram shows two 500k pots whereas mine are marked B-50k ohms for the volume and B-100k ohms for the tone, with a .047 capacitor. Is it safe to assume this will also affect just the sound and not the effectiveness of the circuit?

That's pretty strange..its looking more and more like someone just tried to throw together a bunch of parts to rewire the guitar..
I've never tried using a 50k volume, but I'd imagine you'll get a super low output signal with barely any top end. So if you can, definitely get new pots. Older ones will wear out and get crackly over time anyway, so its definitely for the best

Do you have pictures of the guitar? I'm really curious to see it

And ronregs, no problem. Let me know how it goes!
in the diagram, the extra wires are indeed shielding.

the green wires are shield and get grounded. Black from each pickup is the coil start, and red is coil finish.

with the neck switch on you get just neck, with the bridge switch on you get just bridge, and with them both on you get both pickups in series. As opposed to parallel, like you see in most modern guitars

yours may have been different originally though, where both pickups may have been wired to be in parallel when they're both on. either way will work, just they'll both sound different
no problem, the terms are usually interchanged pretty freely, so it's tough to know what someone's talking about sometimes (though they usually mean coil split, as in turning off one coil of a humbucker)

and that sounds good, that'll be a big help in figuring out how it's supposed to be wired
Quote by flannel_89
Hard for me to say exactly how the switches were wired originally, as a few of the solder joints had come undone before I popped the hood, but it looked like the black wires off the pickups went to the center posts on the switches. one of the pickups had the blue and black leads soldered together at the center post of one switch. It didn't look right to me, so I unsoldered everything except for the output jack. Would single coils have the ability to be coil tapped? Could the red and blue pickup leads be polarity? North and south?

I think you're confusing coil tap with coil split there..

coil splitting would be on a humbucker where you turn off one of the coils, but coil tapping is when a single coil gets wound with a start and finish, then more wraps of wire are added. so you can use the full windings, or use the coil tap to use slightly less windings

it wouldn't make sense to be wired like you described if it was a coil tap though :/
so it may have been wired wrong?
i still think one may have been a shield or case ground of some kind.. that would explain two being soldered together, and would allow for phase switching

the easiest way to find out is really to grab a multimeter though
oh, sorry..I read that like "two of the switches are pickup on/off switches, and one of those pickup selector switches has an extra capacitor"

gotcha now. things make more sense.

and it doesn't really make sense for it to be a shield, but it was just one of the simpler options..

how were the pickup on/off switches wired when you got the guitar? that might point us in the right direction
it could also be that the pickups have coil taps.. but it again doesn't make much sense if the pickup selectors are just two throws..
Quote by flannel_89
Hey guys, I am just starting on my latest project, a 1966 Domino Californian (made in Japan by Teisco). Looks like a Vox Phantom. Anyway, it needs re-wired (looks like somebody tried to do the job once a long time ago, many wires are poorly soldered and/or disconnected). It has 2 single coil pickups, 3 SPDT slider switches, and master volume and tone controls (one of each). 2 of the switches are on/off for each of the pickups, one has a second capacitor wired to it. The one with the capacitor is broken, and I have removed it. The pickups have 3 leads: one red, one blue, and one black. The blue lead on each pickup is slightly heavier gauge wire than the other 2. I would like to wire the guitar as simply as possible while keeping most of the original components, including the 2 remaining slider switches. I am having some difficulty coming up with a diagram, largely due to the pickups having 3 leads rather than 2 like on a Telecaster, and the 2 SPDT switches in place of a 3-way toggle or blade. Can anyone help me adapt a standard Tele diagram (minus the treble bleed that some have on the volume pot)?

it sounds like you'll have more work than just adapting the wiring to a tele diagram, unfortunately..

do you know what the third slider switch does? two are for the pickups, but what's the third supposed to do?

also, as far as pickups- one wire may be a shield that's insulated for some strange reason (?)
I'm not sure why they'd do that though..

do you have a multimeter? that'll help me help you figure out what's supposed to be going on in there
oh, sorry..that may have been a little confusing

typically the two tones in a strat are neck and middle, so the bridge is without a tone
it varies depending on the model you have, but that's pretty much the standard as far as I've known

in the diagram for you, you have neck and bridge tone controls instead. If you just jumper the red wire from the middle pickup to the neck tone, you'll mees with the switching options. It'd make it so in the first position (neck only), you'd get neck AND middle
in position 2 you'd be fine (neck+middle)
position 3 you'd have neck+middle again (where you should only have middle)
4 would be all 3 pickups
5 would be just bridge, like it's supposed to be

basically you'd be tethering the neck and middle pickups together so any time one is on, the other is as well.

That doesn't mean you'll have no control over the middle pickup though. In any strat wiring, a tone pot that's connected in the circuit will really act as a master tone for all the selected pickups

so in your case, the tone controls will be like so:

position 1: neck pickup on, and tone is controlled by the neck tone pot
pos 2: neck + middle together, and both are controlled by the neck tone pot
3: middle only, with no tone control
4: middle + bridge. both are affected by the bridge tone pot now
5: bridge, affected by the bridge tone

if that makes sense?

So the short answer to your original question would be: "Nope, that'll mess up the switching configuration"

I just figured I'd explain in more detail, lol
Quote by Slashiepie
Coldsweat Neck, Holydiver Neck, Triolgy Suite middle for a HSH Ibanez JEM (Basswood) ?

through what amp and for what styles?

anywhere through harder rock/prog/metal you should be just fine..again depending on your amp and the specific tone you're hoping for
Quote by 350EX
Anyone have experience with the Seymour Duncan Sh-2n?? Planning to put one in the neck of a basswood Ibanez RG.

I heard that it sounds great even for rock/metal and lead tones. Can anyone confirm this??

what have you got in the bridge? I probably wouldn't rely on an sh2 to get you into metal terrirory.. rock and hard rock is doable, but they may not push as hard as you like for metal
Quote by oracles
I've got a mahogany bodied Ibanez RG321MH, and while I love it, the stock INF pickups arent even useful to throw at people. Its being played through a Peavey 6505+ 112, and the guitar stays in drop c all the time. I want something to replace the god awful INF pickups, but im stuck on what to go for. I want a much higher gain sound that doesnt reduce clarity for the bridge, and something in the neck thats capable of a nice cleaner tone with warmth, and heres the kicker, I dont want active pickups :p So far (from my little knowledge of pickups) I've narrowed it down to:

Dimarzio: X2N (B) Air Norton (N) or Crunchlab (B) Liquifire (N)

BKP: Aftermaths, Coldsweats or Painkillers

Im open to other options as well, so feel free to suggest anything that doesnt use active pickups. Thanks

is there any reason you don't want actives?

as far as passives, Dimarzio and bkp were the first things I thought of

in the BKP camp: having only heard and never played any of their pickups (except one guitar with nailbombs), I may not be the best knowledge base..I'll give my opinions based on what I've heard and know though.
my vote for the 3 pickups you mentioned would probably go to cold sweats, especially considering your low tuning, and the articulation you'll need to not get muddy

With that said, the painkiller may be a good option as well. From what I know, it's fairly tight as well, just in a different way..if that makes sense.

maybe a painkiller bridge and coldsweat neck? the extra highs in the CS will help you not get muddy in the neck position, though they might compromise a bit of your clean tone's warmth.. if they'd have too much highs, there's always a tone control..otherwise maybe go with two painkillers?

If you move over to the dimarzio side of things, either of those pairs are good choices.. a crunchlab and liquifire is what John Petrucci uses (I'm pretty sure?). Keep in mind he has an effects and processing rack roughly the size of my house which pretty much entirely re-shapes his tone, if you're using his sound as a reference

The tough thing about recommending a set for high gain is I'm not sure what kind of high gain sound you want.. the x2n will be more bite-y than the crunchlab, where it may not have the same lowend impact you want when you're tuned low
if you want better cleans in the neck, i think the air norton is a safe bet. I have one in the neck of my 7 string (tuned UP to C standard) and it does very well for my cleans..nice and warm and clear, though I could ask for more from it's dirty tone. so again the battle between a liquifire and air norton sort of comes down to what you want from your clean tone, or how much you'll rely on it
Quote by trashedlostfdup
i am going to be swapping pickups in my Gibson LP studio (mahogany top, chambered). i am looking for higher output in the bridge, prefer a darker tone to a brighter tone. neck has to be syrupy and silky on high OD. the bridge has to be nasty.

i have heard a ton of good things about BKP, especially the nailbomb and the painkillers.
-they are $150 a pop which isn't a problem, if they are the best for me i have no problem forking $300 out on a pair of BKP's.

i have also liked BG pickups a lot and have spoken with him in the past, and he (and AM) thought the hellabucker would be the way to go. i dont think i have ever heard of anybody not liking a BG.
-its like $70 or so and like the potential is great.
-i am sure he probably has a wait.

what would you recommend between the two companies?

what neck pickups would you recommend to pair with the bridge pickups?

its in sig, i play metalish stuff and blues mainly, i have two splawns, PM and Nitro, which are my main rig. play mostly my Dual terror around the home and throughout the night.

i posted this on the 21st of december and am reposting it, as mine was completely not answered. if this is against the rules, let me know.

I don't really know too much about BG pickups, but from the little I've heard they're a really good choice for the sort of sound you want ..maybe pairing a hellabucker and smoke stack?
The good thing about going to a smaller custom place is that there's a touch more personality with what you end up with.. the person physically winding the pickup knows the sort of tone you want, and can tailor what he gives you to your needs. So my vote would be to go with BG..though again, I don't know a ton about the company to really stand behind them fully

from the way I read your post, it sounds like you're already leaning towards BG and just want a little reassurance with your go for it!

Sorry about the late reply, by the way..GB&C seems to go through slow phases, especially when it comes to people replying in the stickies
Hope I was a little help anyway
Quote by fmonzo27
How would Gibson p-94 pups be like in the bridge position on a strat? Would be used for southern rock blues rock garage rock grunge etc

that's pretty much what they're aimed at, so I think you'll be pretty happy with them. either that or a fairly hot and fat single coil..but that's basically what you're getting with a p94
do you already have a humbucker sized space in your pickguard, or would you be modifying it?
Quote by ronregs
Hey, thanks man! That's a messy wiring, but whatever, challenge accepted.

Btw, for the middle pickup tone, I just solder the wire, which goes from the middle pot to the 5-way switch, to the position where the red wire of the middle pickup is soldered, right?

haha, just follow it carefully and highlight wires on the diagram as you put them in place, and you should be good

and I'm not sure what you mean by that.. red from the middle pickup goes to it's own lug and isn't connected to anything else :/
maybe I just don't follow your wording though
Quote by ruletheneck
hi all,
im putting a dimarzio x2n in the bridge position of my ibanez s570b (HSH), but i seem to have messed something up in the wiring. here's a diagram of the exact original wiring, more or less (if it doesnt load, Guitar, 1998, S470 and it should come up). I've got the black and white soldered together, ground to ground on the volume pot, red on the 8th tab on the switch and green on the third (and i've tried swapping them around and such). i'm getting incredibly low volume out of the pickup (considering its the highest output passive pup im aware of). is it something i've done wrong, or is there some other cause?

it's hard to tell with just that description.. I mean, it sounds like you've got everything as it's supposed to be, but it seems like obviously something's out of place

I've said it before to other people, but sometimes just re-wiring whats there is the best option. then you can be sure everything is as its supposed to be. Sometimes things are just barely touching where they shouldn't be, but it's really hard to assess without physically looking at the guitar..

just from the description it seems odd to have it wired that way though.. typically on a dimarzio green goes to ground, and the black and white soldered together wires are the series link. So i think you may have the green wire where the black and white should go, meaning you're probably only using one coil of the pickup

in the link, there's two options that say I'm not really sure what to suggest..but grounding green and putting black/white in its place is where I'd start at least
if price isn't much of a concern, why not look into getting a set custom wound for you?
and here you are..

the red wire from the bridge pickup should actually be the red and white wires, but it sucks to draw a white wire on a white background, lol

Something like that isn't meant to work in such a thick application, so I don't really see it working..

They make kinds of epoxy resin for use as tabletops (sometimes you see bar tops made out of them..with bottle caps or coasters encased in the epoxy)
That might work for you. Itd still be fairly expensive, like over $100, but its cheaper than a slab of acrylic at least
Quote by Myaccount876
I need help. I am wiring my Tele to have:

-Stock neck pickup
-Seymour Duncan Hot Rails in the bridge (4-conductor)
-Volume pot - split coil push-pull (bridge 500K)
-Tone pot - Blower switch ( ) push-pull 500K
-4-way switch mod

I have NO IDEA what to do.

in your thread I didn't know what a blower switch was, but that clears it up..
I'm assuming by '4 way switch mod' you mean a 4 way that goes:

bridge + neck (parallel)
bridge + neck (series)


I'll draw something up for you in juust a minute
Quote by ronregs
Now that all 3 pickups can be split together. I'd want to have a push/pull volume - to split all 3, neck tone - for neck and middle pickups, and furthest knob - as a bridge tone as well as 'bridge on' switch. Yes, and a killswitch.
Thanks man for your help.

if there's anything that isn't clear, just let me know
for wiring colour codes:

you can translate from that, but if you want you can still use the SD diagram.. a push/pull pot's switch and pot are completely independent of one another, so it doesn't matter if you make your volume a push/pull or your tone. it's literally a switch attached to a pot, not connected electrically in any way (with the exception of thew housing..which just gets grounded)

so you'd follow the SD diagram and wire the pots the same (accounting for the different colour code), but just have the push/pull on the volume instead of tone. or just follow the Dimarzio diagram using the appropriate colour code

I think it'd be best to just re-wire the whole thing as you mentioned though. Trying to correct an issue when you didn't do the original wiring job is much more work than just re-doing it, in my opinion
yep, you can use whichever blade-style switch you want really. How to wire it is a different story, but we can help you with that in the wiring thread (at the top of the forum)

teles typically have 250k pots, but what you should use is what sounds best to you. Switching to 500k will make your pickups much brighter, but that may be what you want. You'll be perfectly fine with a 500k volume and 250k tone as far as the guitar functioning properly, it just may change the tone in a way you like (or don't like)

edit: what do you mean by a blower switch on the tone push/pull?
well, how did you wire it?

what diagram did you follow when you wired it, and can you make us your own diagram of how it's wired now? That'll be infinitely helpful in helping us help you
I don't see a problem with the first two myths you're addressing, but I'm quite sure you'll run into issues with the third one

As people have mentioned, a smaller neck pocket when glued in will eventually shift.. but just butting the end of the neck up against the body is just asking for trouble.

Sure it's true that a proper glue joint will usually hold stronger than the wood around it, but this isn't a proper glue joint. you're gluing end grain to end grain, which is going to hold nowhere near as well as a proper joint.. even a smaller bolt on size neck pocket will shift over time as we've seen, but this is a smaller surface area with with pieces of wood glued together in a non-ideal way
I do understand the merit of trying to disprove certain things (and I think the neck itself will be alright, proving points one and two), but I really have no faith in attaching the neck that way

even if you still want to try it out though, best of luck
Quote by BrojoJojo
So, I have an Epi Les Paul, and was wondering if it'd be possible to wire it so the middle position works like the wiring on a Jazz bass, so it's just both pickups being sent together.

Currently I can't turn the volume really low on the bridge pickup for a bit of brightness while the Neck pickup is on full, it just makes very little sound, was wondering if I could make it work more like fading in the pickups.

Or is there just something wrong with the wiring, and it's supposed to do that?

do you mean that when you're in the middle position, turning down one volume effects both pickups?

that's normal and is just because of the way a les paul is wired. you can fix it fairly simply though:

on both of your volume pots, there'll be one lug that's grounded (lets call it "A"), a middle one that has the wire from the pot to the switch ("B"), and a third lug with the wire from your pickup ("C")
all you have to do is switch the wires from "B" and "C"
Quote by ronregs
I'm not sure, I saw one at Seymour Duncan's site.

Btw, I tried the coil splits on a friend's les paul, and liked it. But I'm not sure if it would sound good on a strat.
I guess I'll do a master volume, a push/pull tone to activate the neck pickup to do the neck-bridge / all 3 combos and a push/pull tone cum coil split knob for the middle and bridge pickups.

Any other recommendations are welcomed!! I could always used some expert guidance!
And I would love to have a diagram to make things easier. Thanks.

oh, I hadn't thought of wiring it that way actually..that'll work for splitting all the pickups at once like you want

I'm not sure how the pickups you're getting sound coil split, but considering that a strat usually has single coils in it anyway, having all 3 pickups split will give you a more traditional strat-like tone

I'll help with a diagram when I'm home from class tonight, but it's going to be:
3 lil killers
Master volume
Neck tone (the knob in the middle)- push/pull for a 'neck on' switch
middle tone(the furthest tone knob)- push/pull to split all 3 pickups


You had also mentioned a killswitch..that's pretty easy to just throw in there, but I can add it to the diagram if you like
Quote by ronregs
Hey, I have a bullet strat mic 08 and want to upgrade it with gfs lil killers. So, I want to include a push/pull volume pot for coil splitting all pickups, one tone for neck and middle, and the second tone (close to the jack) as a push/pull for the bridge tone plus using it as a switch for neck-bridge/ all 3 pickups combo, and a killswitch somewhere in the pickguard. I tried google, and I got wiring diagrams for coil splitting and the bridge switch. But, what if I wanna do both? And also is it worth doing the coil splits in lil killers?

you can always combine diagrams

you can only split two of the pickup with a single push pull pot, since you only have two poles on the switch to work with. so splitting all your pickups with a single switch won't end up working, unfortunately

the rest is fairly simple to do, and I can help you with a diagram if you just need to be sure you know what you want as far as coil splitting,knowing that you won't be able to split them all at once
wiring it that way is possible, but doesn't really make use of the motherbucker in it's fullest form..

since it's pretty much two pickups in one, wiring it straight to where the old pickup was means having both motherbucker pickups on, or both off. never one or the other, and never a combination of the separate coils from either pickup. which is fine if that's what you want, I just mean you'll be losing some options

Have you taken the stock bridge pickup out of your guitar yet? if not, this might be easier to explain..

if you open up your SG, you'll see that both pickups currently have a bare wire that gets grounded, and a black inner wire that goes to each pickup's volume control. Figure out which one is the bridge pickup (corresponding to the bridge volume, obviously), and de-solder it

your motherbucker should have two black cables coming from it, each with a bare, green, red, white and black wire inside.

what you need to decide from here is whether you want both sides of the motherbucker in series or parallel. Keep in mind that each half of the motherbucker is a humbucker in itself, with two coils in series.
Wiring both halves of the MB in series will give you a super high output, dark, powerful tone. it might be too muddy though. My guess is it'll just be too dark and flubby, and lose any definition.

Parallel is the way that pickups are typically connected in a guitar. so your bridge pickup usually goes in parallel with your neck when they're both turned on..
wiring both halves of the MB in parallel will give you a slightly lower output (compared to in'll still be a fairly high output), with more high end and definition. In my opinion, parallel would be the way to go.
Though I haven't tried wiring one in series vs. parallel to know for sure..experiment and see what you like. I think I would like parallel better, but that's me taking a guess at what I'd like better. It comes down to your choice in the end

Whichever way you go, you'll have to do this:
- twist the bare wires from both halves of the pickup together. this gets grounded (where the bare wire from the old pickup used to go)
- twist the green and red wires from the same halves together (that is, don't twist all the red and green wires together. twist the red and green from one half together, and the red and green from the other half together, separately.)

For series wiring:
now, for simplicity's sake let's call the different halves of the pickup "A" and "B".
- solder A's white wire in along with the bare wires to ground
- solder the black wire from A to the white wire from B
- solder B's black wire where your old bridge pickup's black wire used to go, on the volume pot.

For parallel wiring:
- twist and solder together the white wires from both A and B, and ground it (where the bare wires went)
- twist together the black wires from A and B, and solder them where the black wire from your old pickup went, on the volume pot.

Hopefully that's clear enough to get it all wired up for you.
Other things you may want to consider are replacing the bridge volume and tone pots with push/pull pots. you'll retain the full functionality of your volume and tone pots, but with an added switch on each that you could use to coil split either (or both) halves of the pickup, or put the halves in series/parallel. Just another option to consider
sennheiser hd555's, AKG k240's, Grado sri125's..I'd recommend any of those
Quote by conor-figgy
Hi guys, I need a bit of help. I went to put in my two new Dimarzio pickups, Evolution in the bridge position and paf pro in the neck position. These are replacing the INF3 AND INF4 that came stock in my Ibanez RG370DX.

I began by using this wiring diagram but the blank connection on the selector in the diagram isn't the same as the selector in my guitar.

It's a five way selector.

what do you mean by the blank connection isn't the same as on your guitar?

do you mean the lugs on your switch are offset the opposite way?
if that's the case, it's a fairly easy fix, but we need a bit of clarification before making a final call on what to tell you

Quote by demerda
Hello everyone, I want to install 2 humbuckes in a strato guitar of mine.

I already searched in seymour duncan site, but it doesn't have 2 humbuckers on strato there.

Does anyone happen to have a schematic ? The humbuckers are passive and there is a ground bridge.

I have two volumes and two tones. And the switch is a 5 way. I can buy another switch I guess if this one doesn't work for 2 pickups.
Any schematic will help, like one volume and one tone, etc...


two volumes and two tones? thats sort of odd on a strat..

anyway, what kind of switch do you want to use? with a 5-way you can have some interesting combinations (where some positions mean you're splitting one or both of the pickups)

if you just get a regular blade-style 3-way switch, you could use this diagram
but use this to help you install a blade-style switch in place of the les-paul one

Quote by jamicmac5
Hi, i have a problem. firstly one of the wires on my jack has come slightly loose, it's still attatched, but there are some threads of the wire which have come unsoldered. the second problem, which i want to know if it's related or if it's two different fixes, is that i have a hum in my guitar which when ever i touch the strings/bridge/knobs on my guitar it goes away, but with nothing being touched i get a really quite audible hum. can you help?

the loose-ish wire doesn't sound like it's much of an issue, but I guess it could turn into an issue if the wire frays enough to break off..
if anything, just re-solder it to be sure it's on there properly

for the second part of your post, that's totally normal. pickups pick up a lot of interference from radio signals, power lines, phone lines, tvs, computers, and pretty much anything of that nature. the bridge of your guitar is grounded (and since the strings are attached to the bridge, your strings also become grounded) to help eliminate this hum. when you tou ch the strings (grounding yourself), you act as a big shield that helps block out hum and interference

if you get a TON of noise, it may just be that the area you play in has a lot of interference, or maybe your pickups are just naturally noisy (you typically see this more with lower-end pickups)
if you want to take away some of the noise, maybe look into shielding your guitar. but as I mentioned, there's nothign to worry about..that's totally normal

Quote by asf1187
how would you wire a gibson sg with a motherbucker in the bridge? Can it be done without changing the pickup selector/pots? The neck pickup will be a humbucker as well. I want to keep the 2 volume and 2 tones. All of the diagrams i found are for 1 volume 1 tone.

it depends what sort of switching options you want out of the motherbucker. if you just want to use the full pickup any time the motherbucker is selected, you can wire it straight in with your current pots and switch, right to where the old pickup was wired.

if you want more switching options, depends what kind of options you want. you can re-use your current pots and switch if you want, but add extra switches for coil splitting the halves of the motherbucker, wiring it in series/parallel, putting it out of phase (which wouldn't be useful really), or whatever you want really. helping you wire it means I need to know what kind of options you want, or how much work you're willing to do

you could also consider replacing your 3-way with something like this

it's a 6-way switch that fits in place of a standard 3-way. I've never used one, but if it's what you want to use in your guitar I'll be able to help you sort out wiring it to get the result you want
for one you'd run into an impedance issue right off the bat.

Wiring an 8 and 16 ohm pair of speakers in parallel gives your cab an impedance of 5.333333 ohms.
Wiring them in series gives you 24 ohms. Neither of which are really ideal..

What's broken about the vox amp? if both speakers are still working then your best bet is really just to use the two speakers it has in it. If you're set on using the celestion, maybe try to sell the vox for a bit of money and put it towards a new 8 ohm speaker?
what are you trying to do exactly?

a standard strat pickup doesn't need any power to operate.. it works by picking up the vibrations of the metal strings and converting it into a small voltage, sent to your amp to be amplified don't need to power them unless they're active. but even still I'm not sure what kind of application you're thinking of using it in :/
it's not that your amp isn't pushing the cab hard enough, it's that your amp is just turned down too low to push the tubes. That's more than likely what it is

re-wiring your cab wouldn't be too hard, you'd just need to make sure you use the appropriate output on the head for the re-wired cab's new impedance.

What I think may benefit you most is getting an attenuator. Then you can turn your amp up, but turn the volume on the attenuator down so you get turned-up-amp-sounds at a lower volume
There are a lot of good ds-1 mods around, but I prefer the sd-1. The super overdrive. Its closer to a tube screamer layout, and has just as many modding options.

What amp are you using though? For that super heavy and tight tone, you should be relying mostly on your amp, and just pushing it harder with a pedal. Rather than getting your whole tone from the pedal