Quote by Ippon
Quote by Scowmoo
Anyone know anything at all about Echoplexes?

Ask here:

or ask me!

tell me about your echoplex!

as of right now, 100GBP=

154.14 USD
157.93 CAD
121.21 EUR
150.66 AUD

For now I'll have to be counted out as all my money's going to school.. in the summer I may be able to enter something for the 100GBP portion of the competition though. I'll keep it in mind.. I'd really like to build something, it's just not possible with my money situation right now though
your terminology confuses me a little, but I think I know what you mean

shield typically refers to the braided bare wire surrounding an insulated inner wire. what you're calling the pot shield isn't incorrect, but it usually gets called the pot casing or simply the back of the pot
also, when you see 'tip' in a sentence about guitar wiring you usually think of the tip of the output jack (it has a tip and a sleeve). I'd usually call the solder points on a pot 'lugs', or you'll sometimes see them called tabs

just figured I'd point those out to avoid any confusion that happens just because of wording

the diagram you edited into your first post will work as long as you know what colour wires from the 89 go where on the push/pull..they're not listed in the diagram.
as far as grounding one of the lugs on the push/pull, if you look at the left lug you'll see a little black jumper wire that connects to the side of the switch casing, which is typically grounded.
I've got a DXMG that's about the same age as yours with new pickups and wiring but the stock bridge..

for pickups, what sort of sound do you want? what styles do you play, whats your amp, have you got other guitars for that style, and whats your budget?

as for the bridge, I'll second ORCRiST and ask when you last set it up or had it set up. When I bought mine (used), the action, intonation and tuning stability weren't very good at all, but now that I've set it up nice it's without a doubt the nicest playing guitar I own.
I'm not sure what to recommend if you're looking to replace it.. I don't know much about FR trems since I don't really use them that much. I'm sure you could search to find what kind of bridge will be a drop-in replacement for the jackson one though

also, for the record- the EMGs that come in the DXMG are passive, so they use standard 500k pots as opposed to the 25k active EMGs use. I'd still recommend upgrading them though
I haven't ordered the kit or anything from byoguitar, but I do know people who've bought things from there and have been happy with what they get

the general consensus seems to be that for the money, you get a good quality neck and body, but the hardware and pickups are the first things to get upgraded. Especially when you're getting a floyd rose (style) bridge, I'd say that's something to upgrade first along with pickups.

Other than that, they do seem pretty solid, and definitely worth the money if you're aware of what should be upgraded and all that
does the old empress have a darker finish on it now? it kinda looks like it in the 2nd last picture, but it could just be the lighting...

my suggestion was going to be build the new empress, but to add legs to the old body and make it into a shop stool. Mostly because I like bringing up when you sat on it
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but pictures would be a big help.. what pictures are you looking at that you can't understand?

We can't help you if we don't know what you're looking at or what part of it you're unsure about :/

edit: I did a quick google search and didn't find much on how to istall it, but it looks like you still need to screw it into your guitar to mount it. By that I mean it's still removable, but you'll be left with empty mounting holes.

Can you link to a picture of the instructions you have?
yep, it's just another way to wire a tone pot

instead of going from the middle lug of the tone pot to the back of the tone pot (ground), it usually just ends up keeping the wiring neater to go from the middle lug of the tone pot to the grounded lug on the volume. it's more of a preference because I'm used to doing it now.. it does the same thing
Quote by kikaykitko
This has been happening around me recently and I'm not sure how I feel about it.

If two people in a serious relationship decide to take a break to sort things out, with sort of a vague agreement (but agreement nonetheless) that they will resume the relationship when they've sorted things out, is it cheating when someone gets intimate with someone outside the relationship?

Hopefully this doesn't sound rhetorical, because I actually haven't come to a point like this before in a relationship..
But what's the point of going on a break if you intend on getting back together when the issue's over? If the goal is to work past a problem, then work at it together. Even if it means spending less time together or being away from eachother for longer, why does that constitute going on a break in the first place? If you're serious enough that you plan on getting back together in the end, it just seems pointless to me. As if the break is just a coushioned pre-breakup.

So to answer your question considering how I feel about a break, its not cheating. The wording says 'someone gets intimite with someone outside the relationship', but if you're on a' break', its tough for me to even define it as a relationship

But seriously, why do people go on breaks?
Considering you'll cover up the routes with the pickguard anyway, you don't need laser presicion or anything.. A lot of people take out bigger chunks of wood with a drill press before routing to final shape anyway, so you'll be good as long as you know what you're doing with the drill press

I'd say you don't even really need the stewmac templates if you're only drill pressing it. Just use your own humbuckers to make templates
my first assumption would be that the buffer is distorting your signal when it's switched off..if that's the case then true-bypassing it would solve your problem.

Alternatively you could try to find what's causing the issue with the buffer (considering your signal still runs through it with the effect turned on, so if something in the buffer IS the issue, it's always having some effect on the signal), but whether that's worth the effort or not is up to you really
I think you've listed everything you need... :/

glue, nail, screw or attach in some way a set of risers at the back if you want it to be angled..then paint it if you like, and velcro everything to it accordingly. I'm not sure what you're looking for really, as it's pretty straight forward

heres a link to a guy who bult one

you should probably be able to figure out whats necessary from that. Though really it's up to your own creativity
As a furthur suggestion, it's a good idea to start by building a few pedals following other people's designs and getting an idea of how they work. In all honesty, there are only a handful of practical designs for any given effect..anyone's individual version may just be different because of the personal tweaks they make to a circuit.

So maybe start by cloning an effect you know you like, and study why it does what it does. Then make changes to the circuit to change the tone in a way that suits you better. That way you sort of have a solid starting place
alpha pots have worked just fine for me under pretty average use, so I wouldn't worry too much about using them. and smallbear's a good and reliable site to order from, plus it's convenient if you want to get some other parts at the same time
it's alright, your english is pretty good considering it isn't your first language

But i know what you mean now. typically the circuit board can be unscrewed with just one or two screws, which would allow you to see all the components and try to figure out what may be wrong

I'm not too familiar with the pedal you have, but just about any pedal I've worked on only opens up from the back, though you may have to remove the knobs to fully take out the board inside.

is the adapter you're trying to use the right voltage? and are you able to take any pictures of what parts confuse you with disassembling or opening up the pedal?
I don't really understand your wording..

Who installed what backwards? And what cover do you mean? The back cover?
for tuning- take a look into how you wrap your strings at the tuning posts. If you can't get tuning issues resolved there maybe look into better tuners? what kind of guitar are you playing?

for the intonation issues, were you trying to intonate with new strings? if not, try new strings and report back.. if they're new strings but still too far out, then that's a bit tougher. How far out are we talking?
Quote by lumberjack

False! Do you actually think that a hand-rubbed oil finish is going to sound exactly the same as the 3mm epoxy finish shot on low end guitars?? The finish can make a substantial difference in tone because it modifies the way the wood resonates, which modifies the way the string resonates, which changes the sound of your guitar. Changing the material from which a string vibrates changes the amplitude and duration of the string's vibrations. This principle applies to acoustics and solid bodies.

If finish made no difference whatsoever on tone, Suhr would be finishing their hand-build masterpieces the same way Ibanez finishes their Gio series guitars.

The STAIN you use, so long as both are water-based, is not going to change the tone substantially. What finish you put on afterwards will.

TS, I used Minwax lacquer in the regular aerosol spray can on all of these guitars below. On the strat I purposefully didn't use any grainfill/leveling material, so the grain would show through the finish. :

3mm is kind of a stretch.. but obviously you'd hear a difference between those guitars, because one's build quality is lower as well..

High end builders wouldn't use the same finishing technique as entry level guitars, but I wouldn't say it's related to sound.. Gio's get a quick and visually 'okay' finish because they're pumped out fast and cheap, where Suhr makes high end customs that warrant attention to detail in a spectacular looking finish

if you can hear and discern the difference between an oil vs. poly finish on identical solid body guitars through identical amps played by the same player, then..I'll owe you money or something
On an acoustic the finish undoubtably effects the tone, but for an electric? there are way too many other factors effecting and manipulating tone to hear the difference between the finish..

but anyway, sorry that's sort of off topic
The reason neck and bridge pickups have different tones (assuming they're the same model for simplicitys sake), is because they're at different places in the strings vibration.

When a pickup has an option for neck or bridge, the bridge is just generally slightly hotter. It changes the tone slightly, but the reason for it is because the string is vibrating less near the bridge that it is closer to the neck. So its just to compensate for volume loss when you stich between pickups

So yes, like everyone said, you can put your neck humbucker in the bridge position, but it won't sound like a neck pickup. Just like a slightly lower volume bridge pickup
Wood seems like it may be more inconsistant, depending what kind of wood you use

If anything, maybe find a high quality metal ruler and use portions of it as a straight edge?

I'm not sure if the broken part of your file will work..if its perfectly straight then I don't see why it wouldn't though
Ah yeah, makes sense
I'm one to make a joke about not going outside though..I'm posting this while still in bed, lol. Apparantly it was snowing this morning :/
Because we all know going outside to take pictures is out of the question
I think I know what you mean, and yes. changing the strap button location will help you out there. obviously you'll be left with a hole if you remove the old one, which mean you may have to think of a way to conceal it.

I'm not sure what you mean about the other strap button though..could you show a picture?
Quote by Scowmoo
Hey guys, this might seem like an odd question, but does anyone have an extra volume pot and tone pot for EMG's lyin around? I don't remember the values you need for actives, but my pots just gave out and I'm willin to buy any spare ones anyone has.

you need 25k's, but I don't happen to have any lying around.. at least you know what to look for now?
Man, I haven't been on in a while..

Jim, what's the tattoo of? I want to see too!

edit: booo. describe it at least?
I have no personal experience with them, but from what I've heard they're excellent quality for what they are, assuming you upgrade the pickups (and maybe hardware?)
the simplest answer is just- go try them all out and see what you like best.

I'm guessing you play rock/metal from your list of choices, and based on that I'd probably look at the schecter. but I haven't played any heavy styles of music in a long time and it's been a while since I looked at what entry-level guitars are available, so don't just go with what I say.
Just go to a guitar store and start playing
just to clarify..
using the diagram from seymour duncan that dempsey posted, just treat your currently unused third wire the same as you'd treat the red and white wires in the diagram.
When you say there's 3 wires, are you counting the bare wire? Or is it three wires PLUS a bare?
I've never made one, but there are quite a few how-tos online..

I can't really answer whether clay or wood would be better for you, since I don't know what you're better at working with. Have you ever done woodworking or pottery before? how comfortable are you with either?

Most of the diy's online I've seen have been for clay.. just google it
here a link for example-
cool stuff. I've got a reamp box i made already, but you did a pretty clear job of explaining everything for anyone to understand

it looks like you're gonna be gathering some good diy information for your channel there, which will be nice to see, too
For where to put the rail- its personal preference. It makes most sense to me to have a humbucker in the bridge, single in the middle, and a rail in the neck. I say that because its pretty common to have an hsh setup, which is what you'll be getting close to

I don't know about the screw may be able to look it up, but measuring will really be the best 'for sure' way

With nuts- they're not very hard to replace at all. Its just a matter of heating (to loosen the glue), pulling the old one off. Then just place and re-glue the new one
They aren't all the same size though. The nut width makes a difference. There's also 'gibson style' and 'fender style'. Obviously you'll be going with fender style.

As for a locking nut, they're only for floating bridges. Keep in mind that a floating trem like a floyd rose has fine tuners at the bridge. When you lock down the nut the tuning will change slightly, so you need the fine tuners to fine tune. You can't do that with a fixed bridge. Instead of a locking nut, look at locking tuners.

For the tuners, again, measuring will tell you for sure. I'm sure you can find the measurements online, but I'm just not sure off the top of my head

And you're good to just let the neck sit when the strings come off. If you're super worried and will have them off for a long time, just loosen the truss rod a bit. For what you're doing it should be fine though

Hope that helps
I'm posting from my phone so its a little harder to give full detail, but if you've got more questions feel free to ask for clarification
I can't watch the video because I'm posting from my phone, but I will also tell you that I'm 100% sure its your truss rod.

Regardless of whether you had to adjust it with other string changes or not,this time going from 13s (pulling the neck with a fair amount of tension) to 11s (putting considerably less tension on the neck) made a noticeable difference

All you'll have to do is loosen your truss rod, because your neck is likely bowed backwards (the truss rod is overcompensating for the amount of tension you're putting on it)

Putting the saddles in the same place doesn't matter in most cases, but something the height adjustment nuts are different heights. Not a huge deal, but its nice to have in order
seymour duncan and EMG both offer variations on solderless pickup wiring kits, but I haven't tried either..

If you're going to be connecting a lot of different pickups to a lot of different places, small bits of solder and a solder sucker might be your best bet.. it'd be easier than attaching different connectors to all your wires and everything

wire nuts could work but they're generally used for larger gauge wires and I'm not sure how well they'd work in a guitar.
You can, but theyll sound pretty muddy and generally bad. If at all possible you might as well try to get a hold of some cheap 250k or 500k's (depending if they're single coils or humbuckers)
it's not too tough at all, just a matter of replacing the switch and moving a couple wires around: has a good diy explanation. I can't link right to it for whatever reason, but click DIT resources at the side -> true bypass mod -> your wah
I haven't done any building/modding/repairs for anyone over UG before, but I've done quite a bit locally through music stores and kijiji/craigslist.. might as well put something here

James Bothwell
I live in the Toronto Area during the summer, but go to school in London, ON with regular trips back and forth. So I'm able to get to either city as well as anywhere in between

I do a little bit of everything- any type of electric guitar repairs or mods and minor acoustic repairs/mods (minor as in setups/converting to acoustic/electric)

My main work is building, repairing and modding effects. I've done a small amount of custom work, as well as several clones
I also do a lot of guitar wiring. again, custom or just standard

I've also done minor repairs and mods on amps
The two screws on the sides as in the two bushing posts? Those are what hold the bridge down to the body, so even that wraparound bridge will have them as well

You may be able to find lower profile bolts to put in there, but you're pretty much stuck with having something there