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for the routing, I'd put down some painter's tape over the area to be routed out, then route shallow sections at a time using an accurate template

that'll be the most you can do to avoid tearout and chipping
when you're wiring it you're not exactly 'setting the tone knob to full'. you're actually just leaving the tone circuit out.

for the routing you'll want someone to help you in person or to practice a lot on scrap wood. but for the wiring i/we can talk you through it fairly easily as long as you can follow instructions
either a jig that sits on the inside, or like a frame that goes on the outside maybe?

like, a skeleton made of 2x2 or something that you put the sides into, then the inside framing or bracing holds the sides tight against the jig/big frame

if that makes sense. I don't even know how you're bracing the insides of these actually, lol
your p-bass only have the one pickup in it right now, correct?

so you'd be adding a bridge pickup where there's nothing right now. if you're handy and accurate with a router it won't be too difficult, but if you're not equipped to route into the body you may have a pretty tough time.

the wiring itself won't be very hard once you're able to mount the pickup. a quick look at wiring diagrams on SD, or a trip to the wiring thread will sort you out no problem
you'll see at least a slight upgrade with the new tuners. if you wrap your strings properly you may not see a huge improvement, but you won't be going down in quality at least

the bushings won't just drop in, but you won't have to do any hammering. usually if the holes are accurately drilled you should just be able to press them in pretty tightly
you'd have more luck over in GB&C with this

but installing them would involve removing the fretboard, drilling out the current inlays, installing and wiring LEDs, then putting the fretboard back on and most likely refinishing the neck
Quote by fenderfreak100
yes
it works
you have to wire both pickup hot leads to the same jug of the switch though

what do you mean by wiring both hot leads to the same lug?
that makes it seem to me like you're suggesting wiring the single coils in parallel instead of series (where series would be more humbucker-like)
To clear a few things up: humbuckers are two coils with opposite polarity, not phase. The termonology in that part gets mixed up quite a bit

And wiring two of your single coils in series will ghet you closer to a humbucker sound, but it won't give you a 'real' humbucker sound. The way a humbucker is physically put together is just different than the way two single coils go together, which changes the tone

That being said, wiring two singles in series won't be bad or anything..its just not quite a humbucker sound. It may be the sound you're looking for though
If you wire the volumes like a standard diagram shows you, the volume controls will interact with oneanother. Like how in a les paul, with the switch in the middle the neck volume effects the bridge volume and vice versa.

So you can get around that by switching around two wires on each volume pot. Instead of connecting all the wipers together as hot, connect the outer cw lugs as hot to the output. Then connect the pickup hot wires to each volume pot's wiper. Hopefully that's clear enough to make sense
Quote by kurtlives91
Hey James,
Steve's Music here in Toronto. Working as an amp tech during the week. Evenings and weekends doing a bit of building for Trinity Amps and try to do my own stuff/others too. Busy summer coupled with non work stuff.

Just got a MacBook Pro after having constant issue with my PC laptop for two years. Was about to ****ing throwing it out a window so now at least I got a computer at work on my bench. Got too many Apple products now, quite a fanboy :p At least I get a chance to get on here now from time to time.

Niiice

That's where I bought my first electric actually. Seems like itd be a pretty decent job

And I got a macbook pro right near the end of last year, and I love it. I just find it so much quicker and nicer to use than my old laptop


And jason, sweet
What's with the p90 version in the background? Is that a possibility, or is he going with humbuckers like the foreground mockup?
Copa, replied

And that's crazy jim..as soon as things get hard to find they're automatically so much harder to afford :/

And if you still get on here chris, where are you working now?
That wiring is totally possible and makes sense, but when you wire everything directly to the jack you're not exactly improving tone, just changing it

With the volume pot at full on a normal guitar you still have a 500k or 250k load between hot and ground. When you take that away you get a bit more volume and quite a bit of high end

I'm not trying to discourage against it, just letting you know that it may be overly bright if you aren't expecting it
If anything, maybe include a third switch in your wiring to act as a tone switch
One position sends the output directly to the jack, the other adds a 500k or 250k or whatever value resistor in parallel with the output
Yep, its just been a lot of working for me as well..

Even though I haven't had a ton of time for building, I think in august I might try to find a used blues deluxe somewhere, then do a bunch of mods to it

But that's assuming I sell one of my current amps I guess.. *cough* copa *cough*
>.>
Quote by Slicer84
HELP!!!!! I am wiring a strat with a 5 way and 1 volume 2 tones and i have it wired all the way but when i plug it into my amp it has no sound coming from it. This is the weird part though, when I had it plugged up i strummed it a few times and i heard a staticy scratchy sound which got worse when I put something metal to it. I have tried wiring this numerous times but in the end it comes out the same so I decided that I would do the best move and try to get an answer to my problem from someone who knows something about this kind of thing.

if you're getting no sound then unfortunately, it seems like you simply have it wired wrong

what pickups are you using, and what diagram did you follow? are you using all new parts or are you re-using components from when you had the old pickups in?

can you give us a diagram of how you wired it? (not the diagram you followed, but make one by looking at your actual guitar and re-drawing what's done)
radio shack should carry them.. they may not be called 'output jacks' on the packaging, but a 1/4" mono phone jack is the same thing
well, i got this up and playing a while ago. but today it's nice out and I have the day off, so I took some pictures




it's got a capo on the 2nd fret, cause as you can see here the nut seems a little too far from the first fret, which throws the intonation way off when playing open strings. it's still not perfect this way, but it's close enough for all I'm using it for at least




this picture makes it look like the top isn't all the way back down, but it is..that's just the way the light made it look in the picture. the crack in the top is still visible, but it's down solid and everything



yep, it's all good

just make sure the bottom row of lugs on the push pull are grounded. it's hard to tell if you did that in the diagram

and just for future reference, try to keep wiring questions in the wiring thread
Fender freak pretty much nailed it

But for future reference, questions like this should go in rhe wiring thread. There's a link in my sig
Did you ground the third lug properly?
there's no such thing as 'enough' wattage going from a head to a cab, only really too much

I can play my little 5w amp through a pair of 150W marshall 412's if I want, and it'll be just fine

it's when you try to put too powerful an amp through a smaller cab that you'll have troubles.

that being said, why buy 8" speakers? jensen makes a pretty good 8", but if you're not moving up to at least 10 (12 being standard), you won't have much of a selection to choose from, and you'll probably lack a lot of bass
awesome tip, actually. thanks

it may not be typically preferred, but aluminum tape is so much easier to come by than copper at a hardware store
yep. assuming that's a normally open switch

but there's a killswitch thread in GB&C. there's also a wiring thread for future reference
I don't really have suggestions or anything, but it all sounds lik a good plan

one of my main guitars is a cheap squier that's had everything on it modded, and it's great. so there's potential at least
most pots you'll find are CTS or alpha, and either work just fine

20 year old pots most likely aren't whats giving you the wrong sound though.. unless you're just getting crackling from them
Quote by sweet_inc
does the tap send DC voltage? will it not cause interference in the amp?

the tap would be AC, but by that I meant grab the 12v, have a little recifier/filtering circuit, then the LEDs. that way it's all contained in one package, sorta. it would be like adding LEDs into the amp rather than adding a standalone set of batteries and LEDs into the amp, yknow?
the LEDs would be a better option if you wat to avoid any interference from the cc tube

you could probably get it to work with a 9v, but why not hook it up to a 12v tap on the PT instead?
silver sharpie works on black, but it might fade if you don't put a clear coat on it

with that being said, certain types of marker start to bleed under certain types of clear. so you'll want to test different pens once you choose the clear you're using, if you use one

I should also mention that putting any kind of finish or refinishing an acoustic will change the sound quite a bit, often for the worse if you don't know much about acoustic finishing. if it's a cheap nova that you aren't too concerned about then it's not a huuuge deal, but just a warning
with the dpdt in one position, you'd get:

neck inner coil
full neck
full neck + bridge
full bridge
bridge inner coil

then with the dpdt in the other position, it'd be

neck inner coil
full neck
neck inner coil + bridge inner coil (it'll still be hum-cancelling even though both humbuckers are split)
full bridge
bridge inner coil
it's a little messy, but hopefully you get the idea of how the super switch is wired at least

the switch near the bottom lets you change the middle position from full neck + full bridge to split neck + split bridge
(edit: to intechdude)
you'd need a superswitch to get those options, but if you're willing to swap out the standard switch for a superswitch I can help you wire it for sure
if it's being pulled forward, then you need to tighten the truss rod.

righty tightey
leftey loosey


you've been turning it the wrong way
It may work, but remember that cutting bass =/= increacing treble.

Why is changing the pots out of the question? That would be a pretty simple and straightforward way, I'd think
1- nope. the wire goes to the bridge. as in, to the actual metal of the bridge. and you can ground it to any ground point really, it doesn't have to be the tone pot

2- if they're shielding then yes, they'll get grounded. if there's a similar thing in the bridge pickup cavity then it'll get grounded as well

3- depends what kind of 3 way you're using. on a toggle like the diagram shows the bigger lug opposite the main four is the grounded one. so the one on the top of the switch in the diagram you posted

also, questions like this should usually go in the wiring thread. just so you know for next time
imo spraying while it's hanging is the easier option. one solid coat over the entire body as opposed to a half and half sort of thing with the body laying flat

as long as you have a good area to spray in it's not too difficult at all
I do the same coat hanger approach


if the hook goes through the body from the top side in the neck pocket, only a small part is blocked by the hook on the bottom of the body, which is easy enough to spray around at an angle. I haven't found I've missed any spots this way
yep.

is it for an orange? or what amp is it for?
jason, if you can still get on your email I can upload some pictures for threads if you like..just like, send them to me and i can put them on your photobucket then send you back img tags or whatever


also, I bought a ps3 with my overtime pay today. there goes the rest of my time, lol
I remember seeing this posted before, but it's pretty cool. not really my thing, but pretty cool


and Moe Berg (from master tracks) is my music production teacher. small world
you could always just use appropriately sized washers to mount the pot in the bigger hole. even though the washers would be pretty large, whatever knob you put on the pot will probably cover it up in the end anyway