Are you planning to build the guitar totally from scratch, or were you hoping to buy some pre-made parts to put together?

Lots of people building their first guitar go with the 'buy a body and neck, then put the final touches on them' route, and it's definitely the easier don't have to worry about access to a shop/machines, and many of the more intimidating things are already done for you.

Obviously if you're going with a 9 string then there'll be more final touches though.. mainly the bridge (your best bet would be a tune-o-matic with unslotted saddles, which would need to be slotted appropriately for the extra strings), as well as the nut (again, slotted to work with the added strings), and a headstock that'll support the extra tuners without running into one another

As a first build it's definitely a little ambitious, so whether you're biting off more than you can chew or not is kind of up to your own abilities
I usually buy a bulk lot of trannies and test them, but if you're not planning to build much you may just be left with a bunch of extras lying around. A lot of the time your biggest concern will be with the hfe or gain of the transistors, but the 'right' values are sort of dependant on what you're putting them in

as for question 2, I almost always use vero/stripboard. I definitely prefer it, and there's nothing wrong with it vs. pcb

generalguitargadgets is a pretty good resource for most stuff, but if you want a huuuuge selection of vero layouts, check out

They've got a good one knob fuzz layout that I built into a 1590a without any trouble, and it's a great platform for testing out your bc108's (and 109's if you feel like picking up a few of them as well)
how straight is the neck?
if it's not bowed (meaning the truss rod seems to be adjusted properly), then putting a shim in the neck pocket to change the neck angle is probably your best starting point
where are you ordering from that lets you choose to have a humbucker in the bridge with no neck pickup?

it's possible to route out the space for the single in the neck, but since it's got no pickguard and the pickup will need to be hardmounted (probably), your routing would need to be super clean. Even still, the part you route out will be unfinished and may look strange

the other option would be to buy a single pickup ring to help cover up the route. Whether that's a look you want or not...
^ +1 to that. you might as well just get a little enclosure, jack and momentary switch. that's all the ht-5 switch is afterall

of course you could house it in a ds-1 shell and re-use the momentary switch that's in the boss pedal..if you really want to re-use parts that bad
keep in mind that your amp will also have a huge effect on your tone/your ability to match the studio tone you're looking for, so it doesn't come down to just the pickups

with that said, the JB is a solid pickup..I've got one in one of my guitars and although I spend most of my time playing with single coil or p-90 guitars, it does what I need it to when I'm in the mood for humbuckers
hm, alright.. if you're sure you wired the pickup directly to the jack correctly (there isn't a lot that can go wrong there), and that the cable/amp you're plugged into are working, then it really just comes down to the pickup being dead unfortunately

what guitar was the pickup in before?
sounds like somethings not right with the pickup. do you have a multimeter?
wrong forum, but do the samples need to be played with specific timing? The sound guy may be able to do it, but you'd have to discuss it with them first, and hope they get played at the right time..
a better option would be bringing a laptop or something similar to have on stage that can get hooked up to a channel of the board. Then you're in control of what plays at what time and things should run smoother

of course, that depends on when the samples are being played. if they're mid-song it'd be tricky to click 'play'
speaking of the seymour duncan website:

depending on the pickups you're using the colour code could be different, but that's the wiring diagram at least
any particular reason you're staying away from the 'big' brands?
also just out of curiosity, what amp are you using?
I'm looking at it

I should probably work on my guitar soon...
if the pedal is true bypass then it'll sound the same, assuming all the connections are good

if the effect has buffered bypass (like a BOSS pedal, for example), then it *should* sound the same, though the build quality and buffer style can play a part. In most cases you won't be able to notice a difference, unless it's a super low-end pedal
I hate to see someone talked out of modding anything, but I"ll have to agree with everyone above..
keep in mind that if you score a cheap 7 string, you can definitely still tear it all apart and mod it to your heart's content
Just starting off with something that's already a 7-string would save you a ton of time as well as money
+1 to beavis, there's a ton of well-explained information on his site is also a super great resource, though if you're just starting out some of his articles may seem a little intimidating. Still a great place to check out though
yep, that's what I meant

to avoid a big solder blob and three wires sticking out of the base point, you could do something like this:

then you only have one wire to the basepoint, but it all functions the same
you shouldn't have all three variations hard-wired right to the base point, but just have the switches in between the base and each variation, so the connection from the base point to each variation can be turned on and off

that may be what you meant, but the wording is just a little strange

no problem about the three spdt's though. i've got a ds-1 with five mini switches and an extra knob crammed in, so you should be able to fit three with no problem- I just figured a rotary would be a cool way to do it
you can use all three..I doubt they'd work in combination with one another, but you can have the option of all three at least, that'd be no problem (see question 3)

wherever works for you. you can't really fit two wires through the holes in the pcb, so the easiest way would probably be going from the bottom of the board and just making sure you have a solid connection

sort of..what I would recommend is getting a mini rotary switch. something like this

that switch has one pole and 6 throws, but you only really need four (one for each mod and one for the regular ds-1 sound)

you'd just connect the pole of the switch (the lugs labelled 'r' in the diagram) to the base point, and connect throws 1, 2 and 3 to one of the variations each. the unused positions will just be your normal, current ds-1 sound
all you need is a DPDT switch.
4pdt would work, but you'd have an unnecessarily big switch and only use half of it.

on-on, on-off-on, and on-on-on descriptions don't tell you how many poles the switch has, but just tells you the physical function
so you'll want an on-on, as the other two types have three positions
any chance they're out of phase? that'd make the middle position really quiet and thin sounding
the more evenly (and consistently) wound coils in a humbucker are, the more hum-cancelling it'll be..generally factory wound pickups will be really close coil for coil, but more boutique winders may vary for certain tonal/originality reasons.. typically the difference coil to coil isn't huge though

One thing I haven't tried is splitting both coils of a humbucker with more drastically different coils.. something like a d sonic. so a pickup like that may be the only way to make that many switches justified

that all being said, it's possible for sure. There are probably better options though

edit: SD p-rails would also work (maybe?) well in a configuration like that.

For any situation I'm still not sold on the out of phase position though..
what pickups are in the guitar? and which LP model is it? if they're two-conductor, the out of phase position will be pretty buzzy and not that useful..
the issue with measuring your actual guitar is that you may be ever so slightly out of tune, which would change the frequency you get
A guitar also has a lot of overtones that may make it a little harder to read what you're getting

The link Carl posted is the same page I have bookmarked for reference, but out of curiosity, whats the project you're working on?
yep, lots of footswitches work that way. Ones with two switches are typically a stereo plug, with one switch grounding the tip and the other grounding the ring

yay for saving money by making things!
looks like the ground wire to the bridge to me

one end should be grounded, and the other is attached to part of the bridge or trem assembly
what controls do you want though?

just standard 2 volume/2 tone knobs for each neck, or do you want to wire up the jimmy page style wiring with 4 push/pulls?
or any other combination of controls?
Quote by jani2011
Can somebody help me a little bit with a wiring diagram?
I'm making a double neck,similar to Jimmy Page's SG double neck,but I have noooooooo idea how the hell to wire that monster
And I'm a absolute beginner with wiring,so if someone actually take the time to make one,please do it as easy as possible,or try to explain as good as you can

I'm not super familiar with Jimmy Page's wiring, but I can help you.

You basically just need to wire each neck's pickups as if they're separate guitars, with whatever options and controls you want
For example, if you just want standard 2 humbucker/2volume/2tones/one 3-way switch, you'd just follow this diagram for each neck

for the fancier Jimmy Page-type wiring, you could follow this one.

then instead of hooking the output of each to an output jack as shown in the diagrams, you'd just wire up a 3 way switch to select between each set of controls/each neck. the wiring for the neck selector switch works the same as it does when selecting between pickups

hopefully thats a bit of help, but let me know if there's anything more detailed you want to know
Quote by xxMr.Davexx
O cool thanks for replying. if you've got a minut would you mind briefly explaining why thats important? Thanks

Sorry for replyng so late, but sure..

The bridge of a guitar is grounded to reduce hum. with your guitar plugged into your amp and your hands away from the strings/bridge/whatever, you'll hear static-y 60-cycle hum. It's just caused by all the electrical appliances, lights, microwaves, computers, radio waves and things like that in the air, and is called radio interference

when you ground the bridge, the bridge and everything electrically connected to it (such as the strings) act as an antenna to cancel out the hum. When you touch the strings, YOU become part of that antenna and cancel even more hum.

Obviously that's a pretty simplified explanation, but you can always read up on it more if you like..Google will have lots of more detailed write-ups for you, but hopefully that's clear enough
Quote by xxMr.Davexx
I'm replacing the "Guts" of my epiphone and noticed that they grounded it by drilling a hole through to one of the brushings for my bridge, and just stuck the brushing in over top the wire.

Is this okay?

yep, all that matters is that there's an electrical connection between the ground wire and the bridge (and therefore the strings and you). the wire and the post being pressed together is as good as soldering them
if you're already worried about the SMD board and want to add true bypass, I'd suggest buying a more mod-friendly pedal.. If you want to do one mod, chances are you may want to tweak more and more, so the smd board may just end up frustrating you after a while

just my opinion of course
Quote by W4RP1G
So, does this tone switch work like a tone pot turned all the way down? Do the same size capacitors work?

the same size cap works, but I'm not sure I'd use the same..

going from no tone control to a tone pot turned all the way down would be pretty drastic, so I might use a little RC circuit that gets switched you kinda just go from tone all the way up to tone at half?
that may be more practical
I'm not your facebook friend so it won't let me see the picture.. but if the screw is stripped, you can take the screw out, break off some toothpick ends in the hole, and screw the strap button back in

as for whatever you're doing with yours, I can't say since I can't see the picture
Quote by metallikeef
Yes I do thanks. Also thinking of doing it to my epiphone explorer when I pay that off at work. IMO I think it looks better. Thanks. Also is there any videos on this? I tried YouTube but I think I might be typing in the wrong thing. It's just that I learn things easier like that. Thank you

there aren't really videos that I know of, but I haven't really been searching for them.. which part are you hoping to find a video about?

you could try searching things like 'how to change pickups', 'how to solder', 'follow guitar wiring diagram'..stuff like that

what is it you're looking for though?
your post is super hard to follow....

start by telling us what pedal you have. Are you using a battery or power supply? have you tested to make sure that the amp works with no pedal/different cords?
do you want the upper (current) switch to not do anything like in the truckster?

if thats the case its fairly simple.. you can follow this diagram, and just apply it to your current setup
if you're looking at blackouts, they're sort of in a similar realm as EMGs, so I'd sort of say the same thing about them-- that they leave a bit more room for tone shaping in the rest of your rig

what amp are you using by the way?

And yeah, I think before dimarzio started making Morton a signature pickup (the dominion), he had a seymour duncan 59/jazz set. Which is also a really solid choice. I've got a JB/59 set in my Jackson Dinky, which is kinda a slightly higher gain version of his

The tricky thing about making a call on pickups is that there's so much personal taste and so many options involved that it's really easy to get caught up in nit-picking..once you've tried out a few I think it's just best to commit to a set and work on getting a tone you like with them

again, a lot of this is just personal opinion, but take what you will from it
sounds like the ground connection on one end is broken.. unscrew the metal sleeve and you should be able to see it. you'll need to cut the end off, re-strip the wires and solder the plug end back on. A fairly routine fix, but you'll just need to be comfy with soldering and chopping things up a little
which direction is it bowed? my guess is that the string tension is too much for the truss rod right now? like the fretboard is concave?

if that's the case, then just start by tightening the truss rod. Turn the adjustment nut clockwise about a quarter turn at a time- you can do a half turn if you feel comfortable enough, the idea is just to not overdo it and put a ton of stress on the neck.

adjust the truss rod until the fretboard is flat, then you can start dealing with the saddle height. The SG has a tune-o-matic style bridge, which means there's no individual saddle you just raise or lower the whole bridge with the screws or thumbwheels on either side of the bridge.

once that's an acceptable height it's just onto intonation, which just involves turning the small screws on the side of the bridge to finely adjust the vibrating string length. Moving the saddle closer to or further from the nut will bring the frets all in tune with one another, it's just a matter of patience and a couple minutes with a tuner

that's a pretty basic overview, but there are already tons of well-written instructions for each part all over the internet. Just give it a quick google and you should get the more in-depth details you need, or ask if I should be more clear on anything
As a personal opinion, you'd be better off with EMGs than you would with invaders.. EMGs are criticized for their more sterile tone, but they're pretty flexible and wouldn't have a problem getting you the tone you want (depending on your amp/other gear). By that I mostly mean that they don't have much character, but you can tweak the tonal elements more freely

Whereas invaders are generally looked down on because of their super dark tone that can often get muddy...which is a harder thing to compensate for

if you're after a tone like Mark Morton, why not look at DiMarzio Dominions? they're what he uses, though I can't really give much input on them since I haven't played with them myself
true..the only blend pot I've had on a guitar was one without a detent actually (like the smallbear one), so you may actually prefer it. I just meant that's its not the exact same thing, incase thats what you were hoping for