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Once you take the rings off you'll be left with the 4 holes that mounted the ring. You'd need to fill them (not very tough) and match the filler to the original paint/ the rest of the body..which could be an easy-ish fix on a solid finish, or could be quite tough on a stained figured top

Then you'd need little risersto fill in the pickup routes, because right now they're too deep for stable hardmounting
well first of all, what amp is it?
congrats brian, I haven't seen you around a whole lot lately but it'll be good to have you back
sexyyy

it looks super nice man
the only thing I was concerned about was that arm contour, but it blends in really well
head over to the wiring thread and I'll help you out further, but include a diagram of how you wired it as well.
also, does the humbucker sound nasally and thin when you use it on its own, or only combined with the other pickups? and does the output level drop when you go to the out of phase sound?


as for the neck, did you disconnect any of the wires or anything? did you re-wire it yourself?
Quote by Ippon
AP = Advanced Placement

Quick Question: What's the difference between open and closed circuit 1/4" mono jacks? I'm using this for a cabinet.

Thanks.


a closed mono jack has three lugs. the tip and sleeve as normal, then a third lug that touches the tip when there's nothing plugged in.
when you plug a cable in, the tip gets pushed back a bit and breaks the connection with the third lug

so you probably just want open. the only time I've ever used a closed jack is on a mini amp build, where the output goes to an internal speaker normally, then when you plug a cab into the jack, the connection to the internal speaker is broken and the output is sent to the cab
Quote by ComradeEcho
I have been working for the last few days to create a wire diagram, but I am kinda getting stuck with grounding problems, and crossed wires and generally messing up :|

What I have now is a guitar with a 5 way switch, a volume, and a tone. I would love to do all of this work without drilling any holes in my guitar, because its a nice one :|

What I am looking to do is use a super 5 way switch, concentric pots for volume/tone, and a 4 position, 4 pole rotary dial for the different settings.

This is what I wish to achieve in the endInvalid img)

I think I have pretty solid beginnings in my diagram, but when I hit the coil tapping, and phasing, it seems to fall apart...

This is what I have so far, that I am PRETTY sure works:
(Invalid img)

on the super switch I have the top left for half of the coils, the bottom left for the second half (there is always one coil turned on both of these poles in each position)

The top right is the "coil return", which allows all 5 positions to be in series, rather than just the two humbuckers

The bottom right is left open, probably for coil tapping purposes, but I have not quite figured it out yet :|

The rotarty switch (I have it sepperated into it's 4 poles in the layout) should be 1: series, 2: parelell, 3: phase, 4: coil tapping


If there is anyone here who can help me either finish this idea, or nudge me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

woah. it's complicated, but I love it. I'm a big fan of things that are simple on the outside (like your single switch/single rotary) but have tons of options hidden inside

I'll help you work on it, but I may not get much done on it until tomorrow or something. for things like this I prefer drawing it out by hand, so I'm gonna get to that now. I'll let you know if I get further than you on it
Quote by mickey_metal
Hi to All!

I've got a Jackson Dinky and I like to get an EMG 85 at the bridge position and an EMG 89 R at the neck position.

The wiring that I want to do is:

with a 3 way blade switch, 2 volume pots (vol indipendent for each
pick-up), no tone pot:
-position 1: bridge pick-up (emg 85)
-positione 2 (central): neck pick-up (emg 89R, humbucking mode)
-position 3: neck pick-up (emg 89R, single coil mode)

How can I do that??? Help Please!

man, EMG use the solderless system which makes it unnecessarily difficult to wire alternate options. it's not too hard though..



I didn't draw in the grounded wires or the battery wires though

obviously, red from both pickups go to the battery. on the neck, bare gets grounded and on the bridge black is grounded.

when I drew that up I didn't realize you wanted individual volume pots, but that isn't doable this way... you can have a single volume control on the bridge, but the way the 89 is wired makes it impossible to do here. unless you have a volume for single mode and a volume for humbucker mode. or if you use a dual gang pot.

just ask if you have any more questions
Quote by heroindog
is it just a matter of taking the red or green off the middle lug and put it on the left lug? so i got for example green on the left lug and red on the middle lug of the bridge roller?

which pickup is the phase switch on? looking at the diagram it looks like the phase switch is on the neck. You can change the split roller to a volume either way no problem, just knowing which pickup represents which makes it easier to explain

if the pickup on the right in your diagram is the bridge (not connected to the phase switch), then desolder the black and white wires from the roller. solder them (black and white) together and tape them off.
take the red wire that currently goes to the bridge on/off switch and solder it to the middle lug of the roller pot.
connect the left lug of the roller to the bridge on/off switch

if the bridge is the one with the phase switch on it, desolder green and red from the roller; solder them together and tape them off.
green from the phase switch goes to the middle lug on the roller pot; then the left lug goes to the on/off switch

just a note, this is wiring the volume a little bit differently than you usually would, but it prevents the bridge volume from interfering with the neck pickup when you turn it down

hope that sorts it out for you
hey everyone, sorry the thread's been pretty dead lately when it comes to replies..
Jim's taking a break from UG and I haven't seen Orrin around much lately, which leaves me as the only other current regular of this thread really.
School and work and blah blah blah, I've been busy. I just don't want this thread to die

anyway, back to wiring. I'll edit back with some replies guys, and try to keep the thread up to date
EMG's faq section or the wiring thread could have given you the answer, but here's what EMG says about it:

Quote by EMG's Wiring FAQ

Can I mix EMG’s with passive pickups?
It is possible to mix EMG’s with passive pickups. There are three possible wiring
configurations; one is better than the other two.
Use the high impedance (250K-500K) volume and tone controls. The problem is that
the high impedance controls act more like a switch to the EMG’s. The passive pickups,
however, will work fi ne. If you have a guitar with two pickups and two volume pots, with
a three-way switch, there is another alternative. Use the 25K pots for the EMG, and the
250K pots for the passive pickup. This way you can use one or the other with no adverse
affects, but with the switch in the middle position the passive pickup will have reduced gain and response.
Use the low-impedance (25K) volume and tone controls provided with the EMG’s. The
problem here is that the passive pickups will suffer a reduction in gain and loss of high frequency response.
This is the best alternative. Install an EMG-PA-2 on the passive pickups. There are
two benefits to doing this. With the trimpot on the PA-2, you can adjust the gain of the
passive pickups to match the EMG’s. The PA-2 acts as an impedance matching device
so you can use the low-impedance EMG controls (25K) without affecting the tone of the
passive pickups. You will also be able to use other EMG accessory circuits such as the
SPC, RPC, EXB, EXG, etc. For this application, we recommend ordering the PA-2 without
the switch for easy installation on the inside of a guitar.


so basically..you CAN mix actives and passives, but really (IMO) it's usually easiest to just have an all active or all passive setup.

any more questions about mixing, just ask and I can try to clear anything up
that's a super vague question....

you need whatever you use

like, really. I have absolutely no idea what to suggest. what kind of music do you play? what sort of effects does your style use or need? what's your budget? do you actually want to build units, or are you talking about putting regular rackmount units into a rack?
agreed, that bridge is niice

I'm not a fan of the headstock though..it's a bit big for my liking
Quote by Stud_Muffin
I'm not a fan of non-natural acoustics, because I'm narrow minded like that :P

Having said that, nice score man, Breedloves are excellent guitars, and you won't be disappointed.

I agree, I'm not a big fan of painted acoustics either

but I've got a breedlove as well which I love (ac200sm, which i don't think they make anymore). I"m sure you'll love it, man
clamps and glue can fix it, but that picture makes it super hard to see how clean the break is ..or..where it even broke :/
I'm also a (mainly) guitar player, and for most of the things I record where I don't use one of the real bassists I know (and his/her bass), I've got squier p-bass with a set of SD pickups in it

it's a super cheap bass, but the upgraded pickups are good and I set it up really nice, so it's all I really need
Chris_ sweet. Since I've been away at school I've been playing acoustic way more as well. And as much as I love my breedlove, I think one day when I actually have money I'd love to get a gc-8
I agree with you on the cutaway..I can reach up to the 15th fret on most acoustics, but I rarely use avove that even on electric :p
And I do like the option of having electronics for playing live, but setting up with a good quality mic would be an equally doable option for any situation I'd find myself in

And tim, welcome. I haven't seen you around, but I haven't posted too much lately
Nice collection you've got there, and the dd-2 find is pretty awesome. The closest I've got is a dsd-2. I think it was made in the last few years they were making the dd-2, and iirc uses the same chip

how do you do your swirly enclosures? Sort of like swirling a guitar body, just small-scale?
niiice

which model is that? a GA-something?
especially for an OD pedal, put it in front of the amp.
you can use it on the clean channel to get a bit of drive, or change the settings to boost the dirty channel on your amp.
it really depends on the tone you're looking for. there's really no harm in just playing around until you get a sound you like

and I understand that you want to make use of what your dad made, but sometimes the tone you want can be found with just a guitar straight into the amp. So as much as I'm saying play around with the pedal until you get a good tone, sometimes you just may not need an OD to get you the sound you want
Quote by Telecaster7
Hey I was just wondering about this wiring set up I'm contemplating.

Switch #1 is an on/off toggle for the piezo (thin black strip,that's also what the pot next to it is for, don't worry too much about that)

Switch #2 is a momentary killswitch, for everything

So basically it's an SSSP with 2 volumes, and a killswitch. Will it work, or have I gone insane?

http://img716.imageshack.us/i/wiring1.jpg/

A couple things I'd change there

The volume for the magnetic pickups is wired backwards, so you'll have to switch that around

Also, once you have both volumes the same way as the piezo volume is now, you'll find that turning down one volume will affect the other pickup as well. So turning down the piezo volume will turn everything else dpwn along with it.
To avoid that, switch the middle and left lugs on the pots (once the single coil volumes wired the correct way first, of course)

The only other thing I'd change is the way the killswitch is wired
Instead of breaking the path of the hot wire, make the switch short hot to ground. Then when you flip the switch you'll have complete silence, as opposed to a bit of buzz and hum like you would get by wiring it this way
Quote by SKArface McDank
edit: nevermind guess it doesnt matter

For some reason, It's not as loud as the speakers that are hardwired into the combo .
Theyre both sets of 16 ohm 12's at 80 watts
Could it be the cheap jack I used?

Sort of a late reply, but the sensitivity of the speaker can make a difference in volume. I'd say its probably that
What new speaker are you using?
even when it seems like you're sanding evenly, you usually put uneven pressure in certain areas. the pressure difference may be small, but it adds up. since the top wood is just different thicknesses and not actually warped, I'd answer your question with..no, it's not warped, it's just the way you were sanding

The height in the picture is noticeable but still small... how are you going to be finishing it? you may be able to hide the thickness differences in the end product, or you may have to be a bit more careful with sanding. or maybe find someone with a thickness sander (as opposed to a planer), then just do lighter final sanding
that should be enough wire, yes. WAAAY more than enough.

a 4-conductor pickup has a shield around the four wires, so the only wire you may want to use shielded for is the run from the middle lug of the volume pot to the output jack.
and that coaxial is the wire you need, yep. the middle wire will be what connects the middle lug of the volume pot to the tip of the jack, and the outer shield should be grounded.

and yes, that's how you do the bridge ground. you dont have to solder it to the bottom of the bridge though. just tighten the bridge down on the wire and you'll be fine
yes, they can, but head over to the wiring thread and tell us what humbuckers you have for a more specific answer
Quote by SKArface McDank
Are you sure?I know you know your wiring, So im not really trying to question you.
I dont know if its any different when wiring a guitar jack, But I accidentally wired my strat jack wires opposite of their original positions and when I would touch the strings, It would squeal

I dont know what I meant by proper jack
I guess like a plastic encased high quality :P

yep, I'm sure

the reason a guitar squeals when you wire the jack backwards is because you ground the bridge.
the bridge touches the strings which touch you.
so when you have the bridge connected to hot (what happens when the jack is wired backwards), you are also connected to hot. you act as an antenna that picks up all the radio fuzz and hum and interference and sends them to hot, which is all that squealy goodness you hear
then when it's wired correctly, all that interference is grounded, making things quieter

so when your guitar jack's wired backwards it goes crazy because it turns you into a big antenna, not because it's backwards

in the case of a speaker, one wire isn't a shield, and a speaker isn't polarized so you can switch the wires around. the only issue you'd see, as i mentioned before, was with phase. if you wire one speaker backwards in a 212 then they'll be out of phase and you'll lose a lot of tone
but..yeah, you're good either way you do it

and don't worry about questioning stuff I say. I'm definitely wrong every so often
Most of the current bands I like usually put out at least a special edition or limited production vinyl...
I buy CDs for the most part, then when I really like an album I'll try my best to find it on vinyl. so my physical collection is more CDs, with extra copies in vinyl for those albums I really fall in love with as a sort of novelty thing.

Just for the simplicity of it, I say CDs. also for the quality and compact..ness
Quote by Myshadow46_2
I'm new to any sort of guitar building etc. I think I have a wiring issue so that's why I'm asking here, I don't think it warrants a thread of it's own. The issue is a grounding issue on my acoustic guitar. The wire from the PA to the bridge is no longer connected properly to the bridge. If I put my hand in and push on the wire, the humming disappears. My problem then is that, although I know how to fix it, I don't know how to go about fixing it. I don't see how I can remove the bridge without damaging the guitar and I don't want to push a ball of bluetack (or similar) onto the wire for fear of just messing it up and causing more problems.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

just re-quoting this for someone else to see so it isn't lost

I'm not too sure what could be done, since I haven't done much work on acoustics aside from putting a piezo in my own
this might just be a case where it may be easier to just take it to someone at a shop, unfortunately..shoving something sticky inside may be a good thing to try though, that's probably all I'd do really..sorry I couldn't be of more help with this one
Quote by SKArface McDank
is it okay to use this type of jack for making a speaker cabinet since I cant order a proper jack right now
Im going to use it as a medium between the speakers in my combo and a head im getting
also, does it matter where you solder the positive and negative leads on the jack?

(Invalid img)

what would you consider a 'proper jack'?

that'll work no problem

connecting the negative and positive a certain way isn't really important. it'll change the phase of the speaker, but if you aren't playing with more than one cab it doesn't matter
Quote by charger356
I've searched all over the web for some schematics for my particular situation, but to no avail.

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for an HSS setup with one tone pot and one master volume pot. I intended on having a 500k push/pull pot for the volume that would activate the bridge pickup to acheive the bridge+neck and all pickups simultaneously being activated.

All I have found is a schematic for coil-tapping the humbucker rather than merely activating it. :\

Any help in finding a diagram for my aforementioned situation would be greatly appreciated!

I'm sure you've seen all the diagrams I'm about to link already, but you can combine them, so to speak.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=switch_f_bp

that's the bridge on switch. wire everything like that, but ignore the tone pots and where they attach to the switch. Even though there's a single in the bridge in that diagram, the wiring's the same. hot goes to the same place and so does ground. If there's a series link for coil splitting, just tape it off as usual

to add a tone, just connect it to the volume like you would in any master volume situation. this diagram shows you how to hook that tone up. ii just ised that diagram as an example because there's not much in it and it's simple


hopefully that's enough to get it wired for you
the pedalboard thread mystery box thing's pretty awesome

I'd love if we could do something like that for GB&Cers, even with pedals we build or something. Or just have a big swap ..thatd be so cool
Nope, they don't need to match

Typically the bridge is higher output than the neck. For one, the strings vibrate less over the bridge pickup so the output must be higher to compensate for that
The bridge is also more trebly and suited for higher gain playing, so the hotter output sometimes makes the pickup drive the amp more

Mostly what you want is an even volume level when you switch from the neck to bridge pickups, but you can fine tune that by adjusting the pickup height
I'd be willing to help out with that

and because of the program I'm in at school, I have fairly consistent access to pro-level recording gear as well.. if you wanted some hq stuff recorded
I usually use Zildjian 5a's

or some old metal brushes I found in a cubby in the music room of my old highschool

I also really like the sticks regal tip make. they've got laquer on them which helps them stay grippy, but the music store nearest to me doesn't carry them, and I play guitar more than drums really..
the drummer I usually play with uses them almost exclusively though
I have a blackberry, but I also have an ipod touch where I can use the UG app if I'm in wifi area and don't have a computer..

a blackberry app would be handy though
sounds pretty sweet. I'm actually really interested to hear how it turns out
what'll this one have in the preamp?


and jared- it went pretty good. I'm at school for music industry arts, so most of my marks are from practical things and projects..which means all my exams are just like, a half hour long and a bunch of multiple choice questions mostly. so easy enough
late, but hey jared

I finished my last exam today, so now I'm freeeee..until i start work again on the 26th :/

and an ef86 output? I don't think I've heard of that before..it's just a small pentode isn't it..like, that usually gets used in a preamp?
what sorta power will it put out?
yep, but as I mentioned in your other thread, use the wiring thread for stuff like this. all the information is there to give you the ability to do it with your own knowledge, then we can help out if you can't figure it out

there's a link to the wiring thread in my sig, and there's also an ultimate killswitch thread. Someone linked you to a 2 tone 1 volume diagram already, so all you need to do is add a killswitch
^same here. I've used solid instead of stranded before, but I'm not a fan..


and Ts, try to keep all your questions like this together..they really belong in the wiring thread, but if you make an independent thread at least use more appropriate titles