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since you have a locking nut, the issue's mostly narrowed down to a problem at the nut or at the bridge where the string clamps in.

if it was at the bridge-side that the problem's happening, the string would have probably slipped out of the bridge entirely..so I'd start my searching on the nut side. the e and b strings are in the same locking nut, but i guess you havent had this issue with the high e?

check to make sure theres nothing uneven about the way the string gets locked in..like on the actual lock that you tighten down, make sure there aren't any enlarged grooves or anything that lets the string slip through.
for example, if the e+b lock and g+d locks got switched and turned around, the lock that's used to holding in the D string may now be trying to lock in the much thinner b string. obviously that's assuming the hardware is a little cheaper and can be worn down that much by the strings


that's sort of my first guess..has it done this with every b string? or just since you last re-strung?
you don't need DPDT to coil split just the one pickup, but the alpha push/pull from guitarfetish will definitely be better quality anyway
wire the pot portion of the push/pull in in place of whichever pot you're replacing, then solder the 2 currently unused wires from the neck pickup to one of the middle lugs of the switch.
then just ground the lug closest to the pot on the same side of the switch that you just soldered the two other wires to

basically just do this, just ignore the push/pull that's used to split the bridge pickup
it depends what pickup is in it

you need a 4-conductor pickup to be able to coil split, so open up the control cavity and tell us what you see
Quote by FearMyLightning
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If someone could point me to an off -> on button that would be cool as the switch I have now it just too stiff to do anything.

any switch I've ever used with an on/off label like that has been pretty heavy duty, and pretty stiff..

maybe you could find a looser switch thats the same size as what you have now, and just re-use the little on/off tabs?
Quote by wahalrus
Dumb question again, is it possible to do this without having a drill?

grab a utility knife or something similar, and press the point of the blade against where you want the hole. then keep pressure on the knife and twist it until it starts to dig out a hole..eventually you should be able to get all the way through, and either continue with the knife until the hole is to size, or use something else to pry your way through..it's not ideal at all, but it should work
no problem, you have to start somewhere

if I'm adding a switch on a pickguard, I'll usually just make a little mark where I want to drill using an exacto knife, then drill it out with whatever drill bit is the right size (whether it's a wood bit, metal bit or otherwise)
for bigger holes it's a good idea to drill a smaller pilot hole first, but for a mini toggle you're probably fine without one.. the little exacto knife mark does a good enough job at keeping the bit centered anyway
Quote by wahalrus
Do I need to disconnect any wires from the output jack? Or do I just solder these 3 wires on without removing anything?

yep, just leave the two wires that already go to the jack, and add on the extra new wires

let me know if you need anything else cleared up as well
Quote by wahalrus
Ok, that's what I will do. Do you have any switch recommendations/wiring diagrams? They would be really helpful as I am not very good at this kind of things. I bought all my previous guitars with the killswitches already installed.

as far as switches, any DPDT on/on/on should work..some are more reliable than others, but for an application like this you should be good with almost anything

if you have a radio shack or something nearby, whatever they carry will work..otherwise I'd point you towards somewhere like smallbear.. this one should do well

as for wiring, to save me drawing up a diagram I'll try to write it out:

looking at the bottom of the switch, imagine each of the lugs are labelled like this-

Quote by wahalrus
No, i need it to be on/off/on because i have a tendency to do huge arm movements A LOT and accidentally turn my guitar off while playing. I have tried button killswitches before, but I just like the feel of a toggle better. I thought of this solution, so that if I accidentally hit the switch while playing, it'd just go from on to on again and no one would hear anything different.

it just isn't doable..

pick up an on/on/on switch, and you could wire it to act as on/off/on though
I know the idea of a forum app has come up quite a bit, but any time I"ve seen tapatalk mentioned, nothing's come of it..

considering that the app would cost nothing to UG, it seems like a good thing to look into..
On my iphone I can post to the forums in my web browser, but any forum I've used with tapatalk has been much easier to manage and navigate.

Obviously there's paid versions of their service, and a dedicated app icon and features of the paid services would be great, but why not look into the free version at least?
Quote by Nezzingo
Ok, so I'm working on my first build, and am getting to where I need to start wiring up. I'm wondering if I need to remove the back (take off those 2 solder spots) and attach the other wires myself through the other hole, or if the other wires were supposed to be there to begin with. It's an Alnico II neck pup from GFS. EDIT: Or am I supposed to attach the wires to those 4 gold screws?

http://www.guitarfetish.com/GFS-professional-Series-Alnico-II-Humbucker-Nickel-Case-Neck-Pickup_p_4158.html

I've also attached the diagram that came with the pup. Here is the diagram I'm referencing for my setup.

http://cdn.seymourduncan.com/images/support/schematics/1hum_1vol_1tone.jpg

Thanks!

I guess why you're being confused is because your pickup only has a black wire and a bare wire, where in the SD diagram there's four coloured wires as well as a bare one..

in the bottom left side of the diagram you linked to you'll see a little thing explaining wiring for single conductor pickups..that's what your pickup has.

so the bare wire just gets grounded, and the black wire goes to the left lug of the volume pot
Quote by italiarlz135
Okay so now ive disconnected the switches but the bridge pickup is still unbelievably bright WHAT DO I DO (im scared )


EDIT: i grounded the bridge pickup on the tone pot in the same spot as the cap, is that why is doing this?

grounding it to the same spot as the cap shouldn't do it, so that's strange..

do you have a picture of how its wired or anything?
and did you switch the humbucker you're using, or is it the same as what was in there before?
Quote by JELIFISH19
The last page of this has all of the wiring options:
http://support.fender.com/service_diagrams/stratocaster/010-1200_02A_SISD.pdf

I want positions 1, 3, and 5 with a push-pull along with a strangle push-pull.
The guitar comes with 3 Jaguar pickups and 3 on-off switches.

oh, that does have a superswitch in it..so that explains it. the wiring detail in the link you showed actually shows how to wire it as well..so everything you need should be right there
rmix, here you go:



as the diagram says, the upper wire gets soldered to the tip lug of the output jack, and the other one gets grounded to the sleeve lug
the rest of the guitar stays wired as usual
Quote by wahalrus
hey i remember seeing a question brought up but i dont remember seeing any answer and its what i want to do, so can i please get some help here? i want a 3 position switch wired on-OFF-on on a strat with 1 volume, 2 tones. The switch i have is this one: http://www.guitarcenter.com/DiMarzio-3-Position-On-Off-On-DPDT-Mini-Switch-424667-i1134702.gc
how should i wire this up? and yes, i really do need the 3 positions

an on/off/on switch isn't exactly ideal for a killswitch, unless you wire it to be nosound/sound/nosound.

the way you'd wire it to be on/off/on would be pretty buzzy and not useful unfortunately
Quote by rmix

Quote by rmix
I'm sorry, but I use google translator -.-

Yes, that's right!

I'll have a drawing of what I want, I hope you understand

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if it is possible to implement a SPDT instead of a DPDT

no problem, your post was clear enough that I mostly knew what you meant

yep, that's totally possible. and you can use a SPDT if you like. I'll draw a diagram for you in just a second
Quote by rmix
HI guys

Anyone can help me in doubt, i wanted to implement a killswitch on my stratocaster (push button NO), but as only gives sound to the press, I wanted to use a DPDT or SPDT switch to select, where a DPDT position would DPDT normal sound of the guitar, and another position for the push button..

I want to use both, I would like to use a DPDT or SPDT with connection button (killswitch), which SPDT or DPDT would be a key switch to push button..

Thx

your wording is super hard to understand, so I'm not sure if I know what you mean..
it kind of sounds like something that's been brought up before though, let me know if this is correct:

you want two switches, one is a latching switch and the other is momentary. lets call the latching one 'switch 1', and the momentary one 'switch 2'

when switch 1 is in one position, switch 2 does nothing when pressed and the guitar signal gets sent to the output as usual.
but with switch 1 in the other position, the signal cuts out, and you only hear sound with switch 2 pressed down?

is that what you were getting at? if so, it's doable for sure
which melody maker do you have?

All I've ever seen in a melody maker is a p90 or humbucker, I've never seen one with singles

that being said, SD hot rails are really a good go-to single sized humbucker, so they'd probably be a safe bet for you
Quote by JELIFISH19
Hey, I'm planning on getting a Schecter Hellcat VI. It has 3 on-off switches for the 3 Jaguar pickups. I'm planning on installing a "strangle" push-pull pot. I was looking at other cool things I could do with the wiring. I thought it would be good to have a series-parallel push-pull as well. I want to have the middle and neck in series when both are on and the middle and bridge in series when both of those are on. But when all 3 are on, I want the series bridge and middle in parallel with the series neck and middle like an American Deluxe Strat in the middle position with the S-1 engaged. Is this combination possible?

the explanation is a little confusing here.. you can't really have the bridge and middle in series, in parallel with the mid and neck in series.. the mid pickup can't be in two series chains at the same time as it's in parallel with itself..

unless that was just a misprint. you can have it so where when all three pickups are on, the bridge and mid are in series with eachother, and the neck pickup is in parallel with the b/m series combination. that's closer to what the s1 actually does, iirc
the only difference is that the s1 puts the mid pickup out of phase in this combination, and adds a tone cap

something like that would need some fancy wiring and a superswitch, but it might be possible to get close to what you want..
Quote by Gweaterman
Thanks, the Guitar is a ESP sth-130 they were only made in Japan, but I got my hands on one, I think your right with the shielding, I emailed the company that sold me the guitar and I am waiting to hear back from them

let me know how it goes- my money's still on it being the pickup itself, so I'm curious to know how things turn out
Quote by zappahendrix555
This is obviously stupid question but I want to be 100 % sure. How do you wire an on/off switch for a Dimarzio 4 conductor single coil so It can be added or subtracted to the signal.


do you have a master volume or individual volumes? and you want this on a completely separate switch from the main pickup selector?

you'll ground the green wire,
then wrap/solder the white and black wires together, and tape them off so they're touching nothing but eachother

then take your red wire and solder it to the middle lug of a SPDT switch
solder another wire to one of the outer lugs of the switch, and solder it either directly to the output of the guitar (if you have individual volumes and don't want the single to have a volume control), or to the outer lug of the master volume pot that isn't grounded (one outer lug is grounded, so..the other one)

hopefully that makes enough sense
it sounds like the pickup's probably really badly insulated/shielded.. when you say it dies down a bit when you walk around, it makes me think most of the buzz you're getting is from RF interference, and it seems like the problem is for sure in the pickup (as long as you're 100% sure the wiring's correct)

if you got it brand new at a store, you could always just take it in and see if they'll replace the pickup..if it was just off the shelf they may offer you a new guitar thats the same model or something, but if they can just replace the pickup you'll keep your guitar with the playability I'm assuming you like
if it's just like, new to you and you didnt get it from a store, theres a few things you could do to try to tame the buzz. whether they're worth it or not depends on how attached to this pickup you are though. the other option would be just installing a new pickup
Quote by Gweaterman

oh wow, that is pretty loud..

hm. just in an effort to troubleshoot, when you're on the neck pickup and it's buzzy, does touching any part of the pickup/strings/bridge dampen or make the hum worse?

and has it always done this? or did you change something in the wiring before it started, or it just started randomly?
Quote by buy14u
So-I am wiring a tom anderson humbucker int a tele-red hot and black ground. Other 2 wires soldered together. when I check with my ohmmeter, I get a reading of 12k ohms-touching the probes to the wires. When I solder the black to ground (volume pot), and check again, the reading goes to zero. The other pickup I have put in-same wiring-grounded to volume pot-works fine. Why am I losing the ground when I solder it?

do you get a measurement of zero, or do you get no measurement at all (like, as if there's no continuity)

and where exactly are you putting your probes? when you connect black to ground you're measuring between ground (black) and the red wire, correct?
is the red wire connected to anything at this point?
Quote by Gweaterman
my guitar hums, but im not too sure why, i checked all the connections and are all good, my guitar wiring is bridge humbucker, neck sicgle coil, volume tone and 3 way switch. when im in humbucker only no hum but as soon as i go both or neck real loud hum when i play with any form of drive, even very light drive, i took a meter to all the connections and all seem good, whats the deal?
__________________

sometimes even when a connection reads good on a meter it may still be shaky..but from the sounds of it the problem has something to do with the neck pickup, or that side of the switch at least. is the nek pickup stock? if not, did you buy it new or used? did you have another pickup in there before that didn't have the problem?

and how bad exactly is the hum? single coils will always be noisier than humbuckers, and some louder than others
Quote by maggot9779
I was wondering if it were possible to use a Gibson style 3-way as a coil tap? As in middle position is full humbucker, treble would be the bridge coil and rhythm would be the neck coil.

yep, the only thing is that in the middle position your humbucker will have the coils in parallel, as opposed to how they usually are, in series
Quote by StonedColdCrazy
Weird issue. My volume pot rolls back volume fine until about 30/100 then anything below that is full volume. Any thoughts? Brand new cts 500k pot.

Edit: put in a spare gibson pot I had, works fine now. Wtf cts?

it's definitely just a problem with the pot, but that sucks..whered you get it?
I remember this from waaaay back, but I'm glad to hear you're doing well and are getting back to some projects!

I'm really looking forward to some clips once you get them up
Quote by italiarlz135
AWESOME the solid wire was the only one they had in any gauge close to the standard but whatever, i can manage

but if theres a series/parallel switch, what sound would it make on the in-between setting :S

if you dont kow thats fine, you're a great help

the series/parallel switch is actually an on-on-on DPDT (if you want to use it to it's full potential at least), so it'll give you the coils in series, then coil split, then coils in parallel

if you were to get an on-on switch instead, you'd just get series- parallel, with no middle position even available..like, it won't have a middle position, just far left and far right
Quote by maggot9779


I'm wondering if this will work. I want the volumes to be independent so I switched the lugs around but i've read that that can give you a pretty dramatic treble loss. Is there a way to avoid that?

Also, yes, I know there's no switch, that's the way I need it to be right now.

yep, thatll work

the treble loss isn't toooo bad until you turn the volumes much further down, but to avoid it you could add some small treble bleed caps between the middle and left lugs of each pot
Quote by italiarlz135
for the phasing switch http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=series_spl_parallel-w-phase what kind of switch do i need? it says SPDT but i cant find any that have 6 lugs like it shows. and if i use a dpdt, what sound would I get from the position that doesnt have a phase?


EDIT: and will this even fit under my pickguard? The store near me only had solid core wire, and it doesnt bend very well so any loop i make is going to be kind of big >_______>

that's actually a misprint- it should be a dpdt switch
a spdt would only ever have three lugs, so...thats a little confusing, lol

and it should, but if they only have solid wire, maybe pick up a smaller gauge? you don't need very heavy wire for a guitar, so that could be a solution
Quote by italiarlz135
Okay i have a new plan :O

if i wire this Series/Split/Parallel then Phase switch on my bridge humbucker, i can connect the outgoing wire to the normal "bridge" lug section of , right?

EDIT FOR CLARITY: because ill be using that setup instead of the auto split


EDIT EDIT: wait i dont feel like getting a different cap so ill just use the standard 2 tone layout with bridge tone mod


so yeah, will those two work together?

yep, you've got it

the output of the first diagram goes to the bridge lug of the switch, and you can just wire the rest like the second diagram shows
Quote by Rocketface2112
so i finished everything, routing, wiring everything. took a total of 8 hours lol..just one minor problem. not sure if its the shitty jack or my cable but i get some nasty buzzing and scratching if i move the cable around. any idea what the problem is? it was like that before i started modding it.may get a new jack and some cool knobs when i go the music store next..

wow, that's a committed day
but it sounds like it may be the cable actually..after a while the ground wire can sometimes get pulled loose
squier bullets are super inconsistent.. from my experience, they really range from being almost unplayable to feeling super nice, so it depends how you feel about yours

I have one that's one of my main guitars, though it's heavily modded

so I agree with metalhead, if you like how it plays but not how it sounds then go for it
I've done it to several, yep

just take note that in those diagrams, the wire colours on the pickups are for Seymour Duncans, so your pickups will have a different colour code
a tone and volume control use the exact same kind of pot, the only difference is that a tone pot is wired differently and has a capacitor to filter treble.

if you re-wire the guitar to have two volumes and no tone, you'll notice a little bit more treble than you get right now, but it won't be a very big difference..

your guitar has a toggle-style 3-way switch on it right now, like a les paul would have?

it should be wired something like this right now, and you'll want to change it to this
I don't know if I'd call this an 'easy' coil split... it's really a more complicated and probably less effective way of doing it

but still, I'm interested to see what happens, so go for it!
I'd start with a ds-1 and do some modding

the dirty sound you'd be getting from a 15w frontman is like you said, pretty buzzy and fuzzy, so a modded ds-1 seems like a safe place to start. what amp are you playing through right now though?
Quote by Rocketface2112
so my parts came in today and im almost done the wiring. just got 1 question. each pick up has 2 wires that go to the ground(for me its a bare wire and the black wire.) can i pig tail all the ground wires from my neck and middle pick ups together and then ground it, thats ok to do right?...........and for the bridge pickup how many wires go to the switch? just the 1 green correct? cuz the old pick up had 2 wires going the switch and 1 to the ground.

thanks..cant wait to try it out

yep, connect all the grounds to a single point and you'll be just fine

and you're right that just the single green wire goes to the switch.. thats strange that two went to it before, unless it was wired to auto-split the bridge pickup in position 4..which was probably the case
what kind of guitar is this in anyway?
based on how small the body is, my guess is that unless the bridge just happens to be perfectly place you'll run into some big intonation issues, or at least lots of trouble getting the scale length correct.

with that being said, it could be possible depending how far the bridge currently is from the neck pocket, and obviously if you're capable of the routing involved

as for straightening the neck, I straightened out a crappy old acoustic's neck with a bunch of clamps and increasing pressure over time, but whether this neck is worth the effort is your call really. it should be a neat little project