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Quote by italiarlz135
So i decided ill just use a master tone :P

then ill have an extra space for future mods, and have fewer wires to get tangled in

thanks for your help though

no problem

and good choice- my strat's wired with just a master volume and master tone as well, though I have a bunch of extra switching options
let me know how it goes
RGT42, it's super hard to follow your posts when there's five of them in a row and they're very all over the place

once you get the switch, will you still need some help wiring it all up? or did you get it sorted?
Quote by italiarlz135
how can I go about wiring it the normal way with the humbucker?


EDIT: and coil tappable would be preferable

thanks for your help so far

just follow this diagram, but add in that little jumper wire if you still want to do the extra tone mod- it'll work in this case
hellooooo

man, I haven't had much time for UG or building lately

I did get a big ol box of parts delivered to me earlier in the week though, and I'm building a few pedals for a few local guys around here..so maybe I'll finally be able to work on something, lol

and I got an iphone as well, so..yay for that!
Quote by Rocketface2112
hey me again..so i decided to put in another push pull pot can someone quickly check my new schematic for me to see if its how it should be?

ordered the parts they should be arriving sometime this week hopefully.

http://i42.tinypic.com/2uzs2o4.jpg

yep, it all checks out

just a couple notes though- on the volume pot, the ground wire going to the trem looks like it's connected to the red/white wires from the neck pickup. I'm sure it's just the way it was drawn that made them look connected, just remember not to connect them when you're doing the wiring, lol

another thing is on the tone push/pull. you have the two lugs on the right (from the perspective of the diagram) connected, but you don't really need to do that. again, I'm sure you're aware, but just take note when you're wiring to save an extra tiny piece of wire

and lastly, all the thin black lines make it pretty tough to follow wires
use whatever works best for you, but as someone who usually uses thicker and colourful lines, it's a bit tedious to trace what goes where

but those are all just notes, not really corrections..it should work just fine as you have it
Quote by italiarlz135
really? that sucks :S because with normal strat wiring like in this video he can have tone on all 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Th-K8tglKNc

thanks for the help though

oh in the second diagram its asking if i wire the red/white conductors of the bridge pickup to the middle pickup ones, what would happen


EDIT:


the second diagram is saying this

*pic*

that would work on standard strat wiring, but what I was getting at is that it's not do-able when you're wiring your 5-way with the auto-split option

if you were to wire in that jumper, position 2 on your switch (usually neck+mid) would now just give you no sound, unfortunately

if you want to have the option of coil-splitting the humbucker and also want the extra tone options, maybe do standard strat wiring with that extra jumper, and make one of the pots a push/pull to coil split the humbucker?
I'm not really sure what the second diagram is showing, but if you want to keep the auto-split working like it's designed from the first diagram, your best bet is just moving the wire connecting the second tone pot to the switch from the middle pickups lug to the bridge pickups lug.

right now the first tone pot is effecting the signal in the neck position,
both tone pots effect the signal and interact in the neck+middle position,
the second tone pot effects the signal in the middle as well as mid+bridge positions,
and in the bridge only position, neither of the tone pots do anything


if you were to move that wire, you'd now have the first tone pot effecting signal in the neck and n+m positions, and the second tone pot is effecting the signal in m+b and bridge positions

that means moving the wire, you're able to have a tone control when you're playing with only bridge pickup on, but you lose the ability to have a tone control with just the middle pickup on.


so it's kind of a trade-off. you can't really have a tone control in all positions unless you just wire it as a master tone. with the traditional strat wiring, you either never have a tone control in the 'bridge only' position, or you don't have one in the 'mid only' position

I hope that makes some kind of sense
I'm posting from my phone And it's tough to see from the picture, but you already took out the pickup you're replacing?

Ibanez usually uses their own custom switches that give different switching combinations and can sometimes be tricky to figure out, but if the old pickup was still wired in, itd be much easier because you'd just wire the new one in exactly as the old one was.

Head to ibanez's site and you'll be able to find a wiring diagram for your guitar. Once you've found that its just a matter of knowing which wires on the new pickup correspond to the wires on the old pickup. If you still new help from there, I'll be able to explain it better once I'm on my laptop
Quote by Rocketface2112
hey awhile ago i decided to to mod my old starter ibanez gio. i plan to get some guitar fetish pick ups,and coil tap the neck and middle positions.getting 2 lil killer, and a crunchy rail for the bridge. doing this mainly cuz im interested in learning how. and its a cheap guitar to mess with.

anyways made up a schematic and im finally going to order the parts monday... could someone please look over the schematic and see if its good to go? id really appreciate it. i know everyone here is pretty smart with this stuff..also think i may get a another switch for the bridge to split it...what kind of switch would i need? dpdt im guessing or should i just get another push/pull pot?

my schematic


Thanks,
RF

yep, you're good to go with that diagram

for splitting the bridge all you'd actually need is a SPDT (or actually, really just a SPST)
but a DPDT push pull would work just fine and would mean not drilling an extra hole for a switch
Bareknuckles are passive, so you'd have to go active to passive in that case..

but I agree, to be honest saving up for a better amp may be your best bet in this case
you haven't given us much to work with here, but start by telling us a little more..

what amp do you play through?
do you have other guitars that you like the sound of?
what styles do you play? give us a few specific tone references if you can..like, you want a tone similar to [guitarist] on [song]
Griffin, which version of diylc are you using? I remember on my old laptop I had a version that looked like your layout, but the new version I've got now has some weird scaling issues and is super buggy :/
Quote by Shpongled
Thanks for the help. Since posting that I also got a good bit of info from another forum. It seems like it should be a pretty straightforward mod and hopefully a good start for me into guitar wiring. One thing they recommended was getting a push/push tone pot rather than push/pull. Anyway I'll probably be doing it sometime in the next month or so.

nice

on the push/push vs. push/pull thing, in my opinion it kinda depends on your personal preference..i switched one of my guitars to a push/push but didnt really like it as much as i thought i would, so I've only really used push/pulls from then on

whatever you like best though
if you're going with a standard scale length, definitely go with 25.5 over 24.75 (like a gibson would have). I went shorter on my 7 build and even though I use a higher than normal 7 string tuning, with regular strings it's a little flabby

also on the point of buying a neck for your first build, that's what I did and I sort of regret not building it myself. I had the tools and skills, I was just a little weary of it

if you do know what you're doing when it comes to woodworking and are fairly confident and up for the challenge, I say go for it
it looks like it runs off of 9v, so you'd just need to add a DC power jack to use your one spot

I second griffin, that we should see a picture of it..we can all take shots in the dark, but it'll be easier if we're able to point it out
the speaker has its own character, so the tone will change a bit for sure. as far as volume, the wattage doesn't make a whoooole lot of difference.. you'll have more clean headroom, but what makes a bigger difference in volume between speakers is the sensitivity. the c8r's sensitivity is 92.7db..which is lower than most larger speakers, but I'm not totally sure what the average is for 8" speakers..
I'm also not sure what the stock speaker is, but I'd feel safe guessing that the jensen will open up your tone a bit more for sure.


edit: didn't notice the other posts.. but really you're almost always underpowering a speaker. even with a 15W speaker in a 15W amp, you're not really pushing 15W into it unless your volume is all the way up. even then it's probably not a full 15W

so 15W into 25W is totally normal, you won't be doing anything odd there
the only thing is that it may look kind of weird where the headstock turns into the neck..like, the binding would suddenly stop and it might look odd
Quote by Shpongled
Last summer I purchased a used PRS Custom 22. Previously the Dragon IIs had been swapped for 5708s and the 5 way rotary for a toggle switch. For whatever reason though, a push/pull tone pot was not installed. So I have been thinking about switching out the old tone pot for a P/P. I may or may not do it myself (I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to guitar wiring and I'll have to buy a soldering iron), but I know it's a fairly easy mod and not sure if it'd be worth paying a shop to do it.

Anyway I'm just looking into some insight into what I need to do this. Looking at the diagrams on PRS' site and comparing them to my current wiring, I think I have everything I need except for the P/P tone pot. Also I think I may need a .022 capacitor. Any tips, suggestions, insight to what I need to do, etc. would be appreciated. Also curious if anyone has an idea how much it might typically cost a guitar store. Here's a pic of the current wiring...



high res http://i.imgur.com/nQHQH.jpg

are you hoping to add the push/pull to do coil splitting?


if thats the case it's fairly straight forward, and all you'll need is the new push/pull pot. you'd wire the pot part the same as your old tone pot, and just wire the switch portion like so:

imagine the lugs are labelled like this

[a] [d]
[e]
[c] [f]

wire [c] and [d] together and ground them

take the loose red wire from one of your pickups and solder it to
then take the loose red wire from the other pickup and solder it to [e]

if it's something else you were hoping for, just clarify and I'll try my best to help out
Quote by jamicmac5
It's a Jackson Kelly KE-3. I'm trying to find out if it would be possible to fit the Seymour Duncan Blackouts Preamp to it, because I really want some actives, and can't afford a whole new set of pups

A KE3 has a Seymour duncan jazz in the neck and a JB in the bridge, both of which are 4-conductor

my only concern is that I'm not sure how the blackouts preamp will sound with pickups meant to be passive. I'm definitely curious to hear how it turns out, I've just never been able to try one out. I'm guessing they'll be different from 'real' blackouts, but I wonder how they'll turn out. let me know if you end up trying it
Quote by jamicmac5
can anyone tell me how to tell if a pickup (already fitted in a guitar) is 4-conducter or not? thankyou

what brand is it? sometimes certain models come in only two or only four conductor versions

otherwise you'll have to open up the guitar and take a look. if you aren't sure what to look for, take a good quality picture and I should be able to tell you
Quote by ronregs
Hey thanks for the reply, but I found out the problem - I friend the volume pot. So, I'll have to get a new pot now. Is there any other place except the pots where I could wire multiple wires and ground them, to avoid frying pots?
And yes, now I will shield the guitar too.

it's typically good practice to ground the pots, but there are a few things you can do to help avoid frying another-

I start by scratching up the body of the pot with some sandpaper or something, that'll take the solder much more easily than a shiny new surface

Also, instead of soldering and re-soldering more and more wires to the pot whenever you need a new wire grounded, I'll usually wait till the end to just solder them all at once. That way I heat the pot up only once and do a nice solder joint with all the wires, rather than soldering the first and letting it cool a little, then soldering another and so on


Or if you want another ground point, you can do what's called star grounding. I usually just get something like a small washer, and solder all my ground points to that. Then I have a single wire from the washer to the sleeve of the output jack. That way again, you're only heating up each pot only once really
We'll need more information than that to help..
When switching passive to passive you can leave most of your wiring the same, but if you're going to active you just need to take out everything and start over

What kind of pickups are you going to put in? What kind of control setup will it be? What kind of switch? How many volumes/ tones?
You'll need to know that stuff before looking up wiring diagrams

On e you know what you're going for, the wiring thread at the top of this forum should be a good help, and if you buy emg's you'll find diagrams and support on the emg website (same goes if you buy Seymour Duncan's, their website has diagrams as well
it kinds sounds like the ground and hot lugs are backwards on the switch.. thatd explain most of it anyway
you can just solder the wire to anywhere on the pot casing, but be sure it's touching the pot itself, not just the solder

if the solder looks really blobby, it might also mean it's not the best solder joint..usually you want the pool of solder to be shiny and flatter, rather than a dull blob


and the feedback could really be a huge number of things.. what kind of pickups are you using again?
they may be microphonic, which'll cause them to feedback

can you describe the sound you're getting though? feedback would usually refer to a high pitched squeal, but it sounds like you have more of a humming sound coming from your guitar..or like, a buzzing noise

have you tried playing your guitar through different amps with a different cable? or have you tried other guitars through the same amp?
Quote by Wisthekiller
Is there any chance you will still be making these during the summer?

I second this

for one, I miss seeing your perfectly green lawn in the background of all your outdoor pictures


but seriously, looking good as always
Quote by angussg1975
Alright so I've wired up the guitar exactly the way the diagram states but there is an issue, the 2nd and 4th positions seem to for fine, but out of the other 3 positions I get nothing except when on high gain and even then it sounds distant and diluted. Any idea what I may have done wrong or need to fix? Thanks

The strange switching makes me think the switch isn't actually wired right, but im not really sure why you're getting super low output on the other positions, rather than getting no signal at all..
Is there a chance the pickups are out of phase? That'll make them thinner and weaker..it may be the problem
Quote by ronregs
Hey man, I tried wiring the guitar. I thought I was successful because the pickups when tapped with a screwdriver were responding after jacked up. But, after I strung up the guitar and started playing there's massive feedback on all pickup positions, and only the middle pickup plays, the neck and bridge pickups do not. And also when I touch the strings, the pickup magnets, the switch or any of the knobs there's a screech along with buzzing. I rechecked the wiring 3 times, rewired some of the parts twice, but in vain. I guess the problem is that I grounded all the pickups and the body on the top of the push/ pull volume pot. Please help!

switch the two wires on the output jack..the buzz and noise when you touch the strings is because those two wires are backwards

There isn't really anything the should be causing feedback though :/

Swap those two wires first, and I'll try to work out what might be happening


Edit : and assuming gfs lil killers have the same colour code as the gfs humbuckers, they're actually different than Seymour Duncan's..but the only difference is that they're out of phase with eachother. So you're fine to wire them the same as a SD diagram would indicate, unless you're mixing gfs and sd pickups. Then you'd have to swap hot and ground on the gfs to put it back in phase
Quote by RadioMuse
You could try wiring in a passive low pass filter made up of just a resistor and a cap to peel off some of the highs. If you did this ONLY to the bridge pickup it would leave the others the hell alone it'd be fine. Just wire all this in BEFORE the pickup selector. Basically all the frequencies in guitar are below 4kHz and the highest fundamental (fretted) is in the neighborhood of 1.2 kHz.

Low-pass filter basics

Based on values for 'normal' tone pots and caps you can set that the corner frequency of the filter down around 100Hz and it's about the same as having tone rolled all the way off on the knob.

You probably don't want to dial it back that much, just kill some of the highs, so probably solve the equation for something like 1kHz (around the highest fundamental on the fretboard anyway) and buy the right components and put it in there. Or you could wire the bridge it's own tone control, kinda like what the Strat does for the mid pickup and bridge pickup (separately) anyway.

You may still be unhappy with the tone, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the pickup. Eric Johnson wires his tone controls to the bridge the neck pickup and never uses the mid on his strats alone... But he's just the master of tone, so what does he know?

wether you put a low pass filter in before or after the selector switch, you'll still be effecting the tone of the rest of the pickups.. a switch is completely passive, so putting a low pass filter between the bridge pickup and switch would really give you the same result as putting it at the guitar's output
Quote by Ashe_Mc
what are 3 pedals i can build that are relatively easy to do so? i want to try my hand at making pedals

are phasers easy? what about fuzzes?

fuzzes are super easy, no problem there

like a fuzzface or something would probably be a great place to start.

a simple boost pedal is even easier- anything based on an lpb-1 uses minimal parts but still gets the job done well

a phase pedal isn't tooooo bad, but you may not want to jump on it as a first-time thing. for example, take a look at the complexity of the phase 90 schematic compared to that of a booster, as I mentioned, or a fuzz face

all those links are to kits/schematics/layouts at generalguitargadgets, by the way. Which is a great place to look at when you need a bit of help finding some common effect schematics and whatnot

were you thinking of buying a kit, or doing it from scratch?
In all honesty, anything you do inside the guitar that's not unnecessarily complicated (like adding an active buffer) is going to effect the other pickups as well..

It seems like your best bet will just be to try changing out the bridge pickup for something a little more mellow. If you want to do anything short of that and don't know what value your pots are, check that out. If they're 500k, you could change them to 250k, but again, that'll effect all your pickups
there's a wiring thread for this kind of thing, but here's an explanation of how to use different types of 3-ways

just follow the EMG diagram, but make the proper changes for your switch- either of the ones you linked to would have the same wiring


do your pickups have regular wire ends, or are they quick-connect ends? if they're quick connect, you may have to cut the connectors off to solder them normally. Otherwise you'll just have to pay the extra money for the quick connect 3-way that EMG makes
why due to a lack of funds?

if you have both pairs lying around, go out and buy a cheap-ish soldering iron, and I'd be glad to help you out installing them yourself


also, if you don't end up liking the 70's '59, I'd definitely buy it off you
Quote by angussg1975
Thank you! Should I assume that the wire that isn't wrapped is the one that connects directly to the pot?

yep, you've got it. the bare wire gets grounded to the pot, and the insulated or covered one is hot
yep, you can use it

that'll make your switch positions: neck, both, both, both, bridge

but it'll work just fine

if you want neck, neck, both, bridge, bridge, you just need to make one small change..instead of connecting the neck's hot wire to the two top right lugs in the diagram, only wire it to the highest one (looking at the switch from the perspective of the diagram)

then for the bridge only wire it to the lowest left lug on the switch, as opposed to the lowest two left ones like you would on a 3-way
Quote by GABarrie
if it's a super switch you can do Neck, Neck and Bridge, N+B in Series, N+B out of Phase, Bridge

in my post, I meant there aren't a ton of fun things with a standard 5-way*

but very true, I had the p90s in my tele wired like that with a superswitch before switching back to a 3-way

Quote by angussg1975
its just a normal 5 way


in that case, I'd say just go with a 3-way.. or you can just wire it to be neck, neck, neck +bridge, bridge, bridge, if you want..
it's mostly just the fact that it's a lower end guitar..
though there are probably a few things throwing it out of tune, the tuners are a fairly obvious start.

if you don't want to toss a bunch of money at a cheaper guitar, look up proper string winding techniques for how to wind your strings on the posts in ways that'll help hold tune better
Quote by angussg1975
I'm trying to wire up a guitar and I've got 1 tone pot 1 volume pot, 2 humbuckers with 2 wires coming out of them each, and a five way switch. Anyone know of a diagram for this? thanks!

definitely depends on the type of 5 way, but there isn't really a whole lot of fun stuff you can do with a pair of 2-wire humbuckers and a 5-way.. I'd say just get your hands on a 3 way if possible
sorry I was late then, but I'm glad you got it sorted just the same


and that's strange then.. especially if everything works according to the multimeter :/

what happens when you wire a pickup directly to the jack? maybe try that. it's a little bit tedious, but the process of elimination might be the best way at this point
if the noise gets louder when you touch the strings then it just means your output jack is wired backwards.. that or your cable's wired wrong and one end's tip is connected to the other end's sleeve, and vice versa
GibsonKid213, here's that diagram:


from there, just use a typical wiring diagram with a 3-way and single volume/tone knobs

black is assumed to be ground and white (grey-ish) hot. if there's a bare wire obviously it gets grounded

the only downside to this wiring is that in series mode, you'll only have sound with the 3-way selector in the middle or neck position.. to do it any other way would mean getting a series/parallel switch with more poles. I've got something like that in my strat, actually