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Quote by RoyalT_996
This is really bothering me. It's a basic 2 dimarzio hums, 3 way switch to volume wiring. I'm positive i've wired it correctly, but I can't seem to get any sound. Here's a picture of it.

*pic*

I figure someone here might be able to see something I'm not.

Cheers

I don't see anything that jumps out right away, sorry..

that jack kiiiinda looks like a stereo jack though.. is it? and how sure are you that you've got your hot and ground connected to the tip and sleeve? I've accidentally wired the output to the sleeve and ring of a stereo jack before, which just grounds the whole signal with a mono cable plugged in..could it be that?
Quote by GibsonKid213
ive tried tried and tired again im trying to put a master series/parallel and master phase in my Ibanez with P90's. I cant seem to get it all to work. ive tried using the jimmy page diagram, master phase diagram, master series parallel diagrams. It has one tone push/pull pot, a dpdt switch, regular volume pot, and a 3 way toggle switch
I can seem to get it. Any ideas or diagrams?

I've got my 2-p90 tele wired up like this

I didn't draw anything out when I wired it, butI can sketch something for you in a little bit
Quote by jamicmac5
hi, my guitar is getting lots of hum, even though i'm using a humbucker, when i turn the volume knob all the way down it gets loads of hum, which only goes away when i touch something metal, but when i turn it very slightly up (so it still makes no sound but it's not right at the bottom) the hum goes away... why is this? it only seems very noticable on my crunch and lead channels... and it comes back again when i turn up the volume pot so it makes sound, and then when you touch metal it doesn't go away. can anyone help?

it could just be the room/house you're playing in..some areas are just bad with electrical interference and noise from all the powered equipment around

in order to dig a bit further into it, it may involve a bit of troubleshooting.. it could be several things, from bad wiring to a simple bad cable.. I might need a bit more info to help you out any more, so start with that I guess

have you tried similar guitars with the same setup in the same place? different cables, ect?

if you have and it's still an issue, how comfortable would you be poking around with the wiring?
Quote by Metacaster
This guy,


He's me hero.


Thanks very much James!


Met.

any time, not a problem

Quote by mjgreenwood
Here's a question, I had a guitar body built and have not decided on the switching (probably should have thought more about that part. I have two small selector "drip" switches routed & drilled in. I was planning more of an on and off setup with the two switches.

So 2 humbucker - 2 switches. Any suggestions for small individual selector switches. Or suggestions for other setups with two small switches.

Once I find the right switches I'll draw out my diagram (this I should have done first)

what do you mean by drip switches? I haven't heard anything called that before..
DPDT switches? that would make sense, since you mentioned making them on/offs..

depending on what kind of switches they actually are I'll have some very different suggestions, but I'd be glad to help out with the wiring once I know what we're dealing with
Quote by RoyalT_996
Yeah, the rotary is just for the bridge humbucker, which connects to a 5 way switch.

Thanks.

sorry about the wait, but i said a couple of minutes, then realized we'd gone over our internet limit for the month..so I'm back



that'll do you.. the colour code is based on seymour duncan's, so just adjust it to your needs from there
hopefully the rotary wiring's clear enough..it's kind of tough to know how to draw it out, but basically each square dot is a pole, and it's surrounding round dots are the throws. just ket me know if anything's unclear
the rotary knob is controlling a single humbucker then, yes?
I can try to sketch something up for you in a minute
oh, awesome then

in that case you can just use this diagram

keep in mind that I'm assuming the colour code axesrus lists on their site for guitar humbuckers is the same colour code they use in bass humbuckers.
as long as that's the case, you're safe to follow that SD diagram directly
either of those will do you fine if you won't be soldering too often..if it'll become a more frequent hobby then I'd consider something a bit more expensive/powerful

to remove solder, you can use a solder sucker/pump, or copper braid..I don't really know anyone who prefers the braid, since it's not really reusable and isn't as easy to use
I'm not sure if CT has solder suckers, but if they don't then you should be able to find one easily at the source

and yep, 60/40 rosin core is pretty safe for just about anything you'll be doing, so it's a solid choice
oh, in that case it should be pretty easy

does the bass you're building have that metal control plate on it? if it does and it's already got 3 holes for knobs then you'll have to be a bit creative with what's going in the extra hole, but wiring up the single humbucker to a volume and tone is no trouble.. I'd just need to know what brand humbucker you're using for reference so I know what colour code to use

edit: just looked up the one you linked from axesrus..

and again theres a couple ways to wire it

since there's two coils on a humbucker, you can either have the coils running in series or parallel

typically a humbucker on a guitar has it's coils in series, but on a bass like a musicman, which has a humbucker similar to the one you posted, the coils are wired in parallel.
you could have a switch to select whether it's in series or parallel, or just have it wired simply to work in only series or only parallel
Quote by Metacaster
To be honest, I didn't know there were more than one way to wire it up. Any wiring i've done before has just been following diagrams on the fender website.

Would different wiring create different sound?


Thanks very much for the help.


Met.

yep, theres usually quite a few different ways to wire a guitar/bass, all with different sound options

Quote by Metacaster
Hello again,

So does anybody have any adeas about wiring this:
http://www.axesrus.com/Pickups/Bass/Unbranded/MMB4/MMB4Front.jpg

to this:
http://www.axesrus.com/Electronics/WiringKits/Pre-Wired/JazzBassControlAssembly/JazzBassControlAssemblyBack.jpg


Any guidance would be great. The Humbucker has 4 output wires.

Cheers,


Met.

again, it depends how you want it wired, lol

do you want two of those pickups in your jbass? and if not, what will you do with the extra volume pot?
if you have two of those humbuckers, then I just need a little more info on the pickups and I can help you out. Just link me to a page where you'd buy it and there should be all I need there
Quote by Offworld92
Out of all the switches I've owned, I have yet to own one of these "dual sided" switches that seem to be the norm.

Mine is just 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

I tried some trouble shooting, and I think the switch is just wack. I can get either pickup working perfectly on their own with just the volume, but as soon as I introduce the switch, everything goes to shit. I had this weird problem where the volume pot was only "off" in the middle position, the tone knob didn't do anything, I don't even know.

The closest I got it to working was with one pickup on 2+3, another on 6+7, and then a wire going to the vol on on 4+5. But then I only got one of the pickups, and it sounded terrible, tone & vol pot issues, etc..

fender switches are usually double sided, as well as most aftermarket ones..but lots of import guitars have the 8 in a row, so I guess always assuming people have 2-sided ones isn't a great thing for me to do, lol

what kind of guitar do you have?
I've brought it up before, but ibanez sometimes have their own strange switches that they use to get interesting pickup combinations, which make it pretty tough to wire up 'normally'

I can still try to help wiring it simple like you want, but when it comes down to it it might just be easier to get your hands on an aftermarket switch
Quote by BadBanshee
Also, is there a physical difference between the start wire and end wire for each coil, or could they be used interchangeably?

either way works just fine, as long as you're consistent from pickup to pickup within a guitar

wiring one backwards will make it out of phase, but if you switch all the others as well, you'll be back in phase
hopefully that makes sense
phase can be a little confusing as a concept, but once you know what's going on it's pretty easy to wrap your head around
Quote by Metacaster
Afternoon all.

I’ve read the opening mod posts (which were very good) and have trawled through 40 or so pages, but I’m still a little lost with my problem.

I have a Bass Humbucker from a scrapped Stingray copy which has 4 wires. I also have a complete wiring loom from an MIM Jazz Bass (non-active) which I bought on ebay.

I’ve got the routing all sorted so all I need now is a little guidence on wiring the two together. The only diagrams I can find are for active pickups or for humbuckers with 2 wires.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Met.

that depends on how you want it wired.. there'll be a bit of frankensteining parts together, but if I know what you want and what you're putting it in, I can help you out
Quote by Offworld92
How do I wire a 5 way selector switch with 8 terminals to act like a 3 way (where 2 of the positions just don't do anything)? I have an HH, Vol + Tone + 5 way switch (I just don't have any spare 3 ways atm) setup, and the pickups are basically single conductors (just using the "hot", and then whatever else is going to ground/ being taped off).

Right now I have the Neck hot going to 3+4, the Bridge hot going to 7+8, 1 & 5 are connect and 1 is running to a terminal on the vol control.

But I'm not getting any output at all. I'm nearly positive than everything else is connected properly.

are you counting the lugs from left to right, or clockwise?

like

1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8

or
1 2 3 4
8 7 6 5

?

what you're doing should work if you're counting the lugs clockwise (the second way there)..but it may just be the kind of switch you have.. it's really super hard to tell with no pictures
Quote by JJlespaul
how would i do that james? disconnect that portion?

the switch and pot on a push/pull pot are completely independent, so just wire up the pot like you normally would and ignore the switch portion

like n1ck said, head to the wiring thread if you want any more clarification, I'll help you out over there
the schematic shows that the input's tip, ring and sleeve are connected to 1, 11 and 13 respectively

those numbers just correspond to the numbers on the PCB


there you go

black in the diagram should actually be the striped black and white on your pickup, but that's hard to draw..

then obviously, the wire from your bridge gets grounded and the ground points get connected
Quote by Briyan_15
So I would like to know if any one here could help we with a set of Lace Alumitones. I need a wiring diagram. I tried the one thier tech gave me (http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WD2HH3L11_02/Guitar-Wiring-Diagram-2-Humbuckers3-Way-Lever-Switch1-Volume2-TonesIndividual-Coil-Taps.html) and I can only get the pick ups in split mode. Any sugestions? Any one know anything about these things?

I got your PM, but alright, I can draw you up a diagram. Just give me a couple minutes
Quote by BadBanshee
I'm a sucker for knowing how stuff works for the hell of it lol. Is it not just a simple case of relabelling the lugs? In which case, couldn't we just work backwards. I.e. I know that when the 5 way switch is in position 1 (neckwards) then only the neck pickup in series is switched on. I'm guessing all the wires coming out of the neck pickup (excluding the wire that goes to the volume pot) should be connected to the lugs that are activated when in position 1, and only those wires, right? As in, no wires from any other pickups.

it's definitely possible to do it that way, that's actually how I'd figure it out as well

What I usually do if I'm working backwards is draw the switch 5 times on a piece of paper, with each position labelled above it

Then I just do what you said.. position 1 means the neck pickup is on, so that means this lug and this lug are connected, so i draw it on my little switch diagram
then i repeat for positions 2-5, and I know how each lug is connected in each position
if you don't find anything before the weekend, I"ll post one up for you

iirc there's a few mod sites with drawn-out layouts though..i thought you'd be able to find something
sorry about that, it's been a busy weekend

but now that I've looked up the positions your guitars switch works in, it's clear that it has one of ibanez's specialty switches. So it's interconnects are quite different from a standard 5-way, and will only really work if you want to wire it with the current switching configuration


if you still want to understand how a standard 5-way works, I can get into more detail on that as well, but there's not a huge practical use in explaining how to figure out the interconnects of your current switch, other than just for the sake of understanding it
the title says you're looking for a middle pickup, but your post says you're making a telemaster (2 pickups)..

then you mention you have a SD 59 in the bridge, and ask what pickup would be good in the bridge

so..what exactly are you looking for? :/
so do you want to be able to split the alnico II?

like Al said, it'd mean taking apart your pickup and making it a 4-conductor.. It's doable for sure, but it's pretty big task if you don't know what you're doing

you could just leave the switch portion of the push/pull disconnected if you like, or replace it with a standard pot. it just obviously means you can't split your alnicoII pro
Quote by y2k11hmmm?
Little '59? But if you really want full-sized humbuckers, I would take off the pickguard and check the routing. If there isn't space, you could do some rudimentary routing with a big drill bit or one of those things I can't remember the word for. They wider and make sort of a "w" shape at the point. That's only if you REALLY need fullsize humbuckers, and don't want to pay for a pro to do it. Steer clear of EMGs though.

you're thinking of hogging out the cavities with a forstner bit


and I wouldn't totally agree with the 'stay away from EMGs' comment.. they're good for what they're designed for, but they're definitely not for everything
that way'll work, but it'll be kind of noisy..

it's really best to make a killswitch short the hot and ground, rather than just disconnect one of the contacts..that leaves the hot floating and prone to hum and buzz

instead of making a killswitch kill the signal in the 'off' position, it's best to make the 'on' position the kill position. 'on' just means the contacts of the switch are connected, not that it needs to be the 'sound on' position


just throwing that out there
Quote by vesticles3562
I know there's a fairly subtle difference when you use the coil tap but I'm hearing nothing at all. Plus, it used to be owned by a friend of mine who tried out a different set of pickups so the wiring could be off.

Here's a couple pics. Let me know if you need a specific angle to get a better look at something:

http://i.imgur.com/ITtUT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DdW7g.jpg

oh, yep..it's just not wired up, you're right

in the first picture, see the green and white wires that are taped off together? There's a pair from each pickup.

untape them, and solder one set of white and green to the lower left lug on the tone pot's switch, if you're looking at it from the perspective of the second picture. then solder the other pair to the lower right lug.

and you should be good

by the looks of the clipped off wires still on the switch, someone tried to wire it in a way that'd split the pickups with the push/pull pushed down, and possibly with both green/white pairs soldered to the same lug

just do as i explained up there and you should be good to go
Quote by BadBanshee
Thanks for taking the time to reply but I gotta admit, I didn't understand any of that lol. What do red and blue lugs mean in the diagram? Also, on my switch selector all 8 of the pins are in 1 row. I've attached a picture. It's in an Ibanez RGR321EX.

Edit: also what do common poles do?

the blue and red lugs just represent which lugs are connected in each position

in position 1, the top right lug and top left lugs are connected, so they're both shown in red.
Also in the first position the two lugs on the bottom left are connected, so they're shown in blue

so if a lug is red in the diagram, it's connected to all the other red lugs when the switch is in that position.

A lot of import guitars have that 8 in a row configuration, but the connectivity is the same..the lugs are just moved around

if we number the lugs on the switch I drew in my diagram starting from the top left, it'd be numbered like this:



  1   2   3   4   
 -----------------
    5   6   7   8


Then the Lugs of your switch would be numbered like this:


1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8
-----------------------------



The only thing is, sometimes Ibanez uses their own custom made switches, which have different interconnects. The special Ibanez switches are only really useful when you want to wire your guitar exactly the way that switch was designed to be wired

Is there something you wanted to do to your wiring that made you want to know the connections?


and a pole is one type of lug on a switch.

On a simple switch like this one, there are three lugs

the middle one is a pole, and the outer ones are throws.

in the position that the switch is pictured, the middle pole is connected to the throw on the left. In the opposite position the pole is connected to the throw on the right.

so basically the position of a switch indicates which throw(s) the pole gets connected to.

In the case of my diagram, the top right lug is a pole, because it's the one that gets connected to a different lug depending on the position the switch is in. Same goes for the bottom left lug
how's it wired right now? can you take a picture or draw a diagram?

what makes you think the coil split isn't working?


there you are


on one half of the switch the red lugs are connected in each position, and on the other side the blues are all connected

you'll be able to see from the diagram, but on the top side of the switch the lug to the right is the common pole, and on the bottom side the leftmost lug is the common pole
There's a wiring thread for questions like this, but the way SD pickups split is different from the alumitones..

I'm in class right now, but post in the wiring thread and ill draw you something up when I'm home
Quote by BadBanshee
Could somebody please explain to me how 5 way switch selectors with 8 pins work? As in, how are each of the 8 pins activated in relation to which position the selector is in?

sure, I'll draw up a diagram

This was actually one of the most confusing things to me when I started wiring guitars, so I think a diagram is in order
if someone wound them for you and they're not working properly at all, you shouldn't have to pay to send them back for a fix- whoever wound them will hopefully stand behind their work and get them working consistently for you

there's always a possibility that the wiring wasn't done right, even if it was by a guy at a shop..but counting that out, it could be the switches, and they may have been switched around?

thats really the only other culprit that could effect just one pickup and not the other :/
right now you've more than likely got it wired with one coil turned off and grounded, so..there's a problem there
it really doesn't matter whether + or - goes to the tip as long as you do the same for both speakers so the polarity is correct. For the sake of simplicity and consistency, I say + to the tip is a safe bet

then - (if you wired + to the tip), goes to the sleeve. You don't need a ring in this case

and you'll only have to use a TS cable, but make sure it's a speaker cable, not an instrument cable.
probably, but if it's thin maybe you have it wired wrong?

howd you wire it?
Quote by dash-rendar
You want a good seven string set? Go talk to John Petrucci about his Crunchlab and Liquifire. His is one of the best damn tones on the face of this earth

keep in mind that he also has a rack the size of my house that processes his sound..

But even with that in mind, they're still a great set. I just mean don't expect Petrucci tones exactly
I say go for it!

especially if it means a secure thing in the long run

it'll definitely mean slowing down the guitar building for the first little bit, but like neil said, you'll still have weekends and evenings to focus on guitars. and once you've been there for a little while you'll know what sort of schedule you can keep up, and can get better at balancing guitar building and the 9-5 job

Where if you don't take it, it's a bigger risk but you'll have time to build your guitar business.. I guess one big downside to taking it is that it could (and will for sure, i guess) interfere with the big project you've got in mind.. but I'm sure there will always be a way to work around it as well
if you want something unique and original, asking people for ideas isn't the best way to get it

but do you want to paint a design, or use decals?
or something else?

Painting an enclosure a solid colour, applying a decal and clear coating it isn't too hard really, you just need an idea of what you're doing design-wise

depending what kind of effect the pedal is, you could always do a design related to the effect type?
Quote by RoyalT_996
Hey, so I'm doing some wiring for an HSS strat, and I want to make sure that I've got the wiring correct.

(Invalid img)

The owner wants to be able to switch the humbucker so that it uses just the north, then series, and then south, on a 3 way switch.

If someone could let me know if i need to fix something, that would be awesome.

Thanks in advance.

the bridge pickup switch looks a little off to me, just at first glance..

here's how I'd do it:

using an on/on/on mini toggle, imagine the lugs on the switch are labelled like this (to save me drawing a diagram):

[a] [d]
[e]
[c] [f]

[a] gets grounded
gets the white wire from the pickup (North Finish)
[c] and [f] are connected together, and get the red wire, SF
[d] is connected to green, NS
[e] is the output, to your switch


the 5-way also looks kind of odd to me..as well as the tone

just use this diagram as a reference for the rest of the wiring, obviously replacing the hot wire from the bridge in the diagram with the output from the 3-way mini toggle in your actual wiring

I can draw it up if you need it, but just let me know if the text-only explanation is clear enough
Quote by conor-figgy
Thanks so much! I've had these new pups for months now but haven't had time to fit them due to college and a blown tube that took me a while to replace

You're such a helpful person, you should really get more recognition.

no problem, it's always nice to hear things like that

Quote by Stevieguitar
I bought a set of EMG 81 /60 set and it is one of the older set that required soldering.
I am not sure how to connect them up. Can anybody that has installed the older wiring offer some pointers or a diagram possibly?

I want to install the 81 in the bridge and the 60 in the neck with a 3 way blade switch and one master volume and one master tone.

Can you experts give me some help here?

I'll help out, sure

Instead of making you a whole new diagram, I'll just link to two different ones and tell you what to use from each. Hopefully it's still clear enough that way

Luckily, Seymour Duncan Blackouts have the same colour code as EMGs- red is +9v from the battery, white is hot and bare ground
so you can use this diagram for the most part

then for the switch, use this one to figure out how to use a blade style 3-way instead of the gibson style one in the first diagram

hopefully that's enough information to get it all wired up