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you could always just use appropriately sized washers to mount the pot in the bigger hole. even though the washers would be pretty large, whatever knob you put on the pot will probably cover it up in the end anyway
Quote by Bloodsick
I'm showing my lack of knowledge here, it has a 9v battery and I'm sure the pickups are active. How do you tell if the tone controls are?

if the battery is just connected to the pickups then the pickups are active and that's all

since you said the controls are 2 humbuckers/1 volume/ 3 tone balance, I'm assuming the '3 tone balance' part means there's treble/middle/bass controls?

usually that's part of an active circuit, which usually calls for a brand-specific wiring diagram.

is there a little circuit board inside the cavity? or could you show us a picture of how it's currently wired or anything?
even with the output jack tightened, the wires may be loose from all the jiggling around it did before

if at all possible, I'd suggest re-soldering the jack

for the screws, you can just pick up some pickup height or pickup mounting screws at a music store ususally
there's no risk. you just (obviously) won't get any sound when your pickup selectors on the bridge position
I'm not sure if Epi PL's use the same pickup in the bridge and neck, but they're the same design at least. if there's any difference then it's just that the bridge pickup is wound slightly hotter

most of the difference between the bridge and neck positions comes from where the pickup is placed.. so moving the bridge pickup to the neck will still give you a neck pickup sound (because it's in the neck). if the bridge is wound slightly hotter then you'll notice a little bit of a difference there though.

I have two bridge pickups in my dinky actually. a bridge JB in the bridge and a bridge 59 in the neck

and just a note..I've only played the invader once and it was a few years ago, but the general consensus is that it's a little muddy, which may put you off of it
67_67-
that's sort of strange.. what kind of humbucker is it?
the wire with two leads may be hot and ground, with the third wire being a series link for coil splitting

it's hard to say though. do you have a multimeter?


bloodsick-
you're right that the best bet is to just take i all apart and start from scratch. it's MUCH easier to wire a guitar from start to finish than it is to fix someone's mistakes if you (or they) didn't know what they're doing

when you say it's active, do you mean there's just active pickups, or is there an active booster/tone controls as well?
this should be in GG&A, not GB&C..
but you haven't given us a whole lot to work with here

do you have an amp now? what don't you get out of it that you want from your new amp?
what kind of guitars do you have and what sort of sound are you looking for/what genre of music do you generally play?
you dont want 100 watts, but do you have a rough maximum or minimum power level in mind?
Quote by Led Head
I dont really know who I look like no one has ever really compared me to anyone.



?
well, what pickups do you have, how many pickups are there (HH, HSH, HSS, ect), and how many knobs (or holes) do you have now?
when it comes to making your own cables, i think it's a better option just because it gives you an easier ability to do repairs if something breaks..you put it together so you know what's up

tube depot has some good videos on their youtube channel.. this one shows an instrument cable, and this one's a speaker cable tutorial
Years (By One Thousand Fingertips) by Attack in Black, on vinyl

I also just bought The Pains of Being Pure at Heart's self titled album and Peaceful the World Lays Me Down by Noah and the Whale both on CD, but they're not here yet




you can use just one battery to power both the EMGs and the ghost thing, but using two in parallel would double the amount of time you can play before changing batteries
niiice

I wish I had money for nice things..

I had a crazy busy weekend but I made like $200 yesterday at work, so that's good

how's everyone else been?
what kind of sandpaper?

to take the current finish off, 400 will take you foreever. use 80 or so to scuff up the finish you have on right now, then you can start spraying your new colour
for once you're done spraying you can start with 400, but sand even higher than 800 to get all the small scratches out

for what kind of paint, any kind of automotive paint is usually fine. are you using a spray gun or cans?

for clear, again use something automotive. you can go with poly or nitrocelluloce, but poly is much more common and easier IMO

a satin finish would be easier just because it needs less buffing. with a white finish I think gloss looks better though


there's plenty of helpful tutorials online too, if you want more indepth instructions
no problem. be sure to post pictures or clips when it's done
we have a wiring thread for questions like this

if it isn't working then something is obviously not exactly like the diagram

head over to the wiring thread for more help, but are you sure your battery isn't dead?
the first one, + on the cap goes to + on the board; - to -

and as a side note, a battery goes the same way...
+ on a battery still goes to + on the board; - to -
the strap botton's held in the same way as on a solid body..
just get a couple toothpicks, stick them in the hole and screw it back in, breaking off the extra end of the toothpicks..you should be good
circles are positive, as the diagram shows

I'm not sure what you mean by batteries being connected + to - and - to + though. + on a battery is still +...


but yeah, electrolytic caps are polarized and need to go a certain way around
if it cuts out completely then it's still an issue with the circuit..which could be several things

luckily a dod250 isn't too complicated of a pedal..check to make sure that all your connections are solid and there aren't any bad solder joints. with no symptoms other than 'it makes no sound' to go off of, trouble shooting's pretty tough from my end of things :/
wrong forum..this section's for actually building or modding your pedals and gear. I'll get a mod to move the thread for you

and to address your question, it really depends what kind of music you'll be playing
yes, you need to ground the board where it should be grounded.

the problem likely isn't in the switch wiring, it's in your circuit. not grounding the ground points on the board would count as a problem in the circuit
Quote by xBrando
May have been addressed previously, but what if your parent (Mom) and sister aren't too fond of a girl. I've been hanging out a lot recently with this girl and I think we both have a thing for each other. However, every time I do it feels like I have to hide it. Any tips? She says she's going to try to win them over :/

why don't your mom and sister like this girl?

have they actually said or acted like they don't like her? or what makes you feel like you have to hide hanging out with her?

and how old are you? if you're young or haven't had much girl experience then it could just be your mom and sister adjusting to you having girls around

Quote by fenderbassist12
ok guys lookin for a little advice. i asked this girl to my senior prom and she said yes, and we talked often for the weeks leading up to prom. last weekend was prom, we went, we had a pretty good time. the whole group got pretty drunk and stayed at one of our friends houses. i was kinda hoping to get some action but late that night i asked if she was trying to share the couch she was on to sleep, she said she was gonna share it with one of the other girls. so i just went to a different bed and went to sleep. i left that morning, and i haven't talked to her since. that was 4 days ago. i don't get it cause she seemed like she really liked me and i enjoyed talking to her. but lately ive been noticing she acts that way around most guys. she used to constantly text me but now i havent talked to her except in class today casually for a little. i cant help but think what if she is thinking the same thing that it is kinda weird we havent talked since prom. i dont wanna be the one going back to her though. i know other guys are all over her and shes probably talking to them constantly. sorry for the rant, i just thought it was a kinda weird situation and i don't really know what to do..

if she's getting lots of attention from other guys then what reason does she have to come back to you?

if you want her then you need to make a move. obviously don't do ALL the work, but don't expect her to either
Quote by ethan_hanus
I was thinking of making like a junction box or something like that. Wouldn't I need like...a bunch of TS chips to do that?

yeah, you'd probably be able to recycle some caps and resistors from the mixer, but you'd probably also need to buy quite a few extra parts for something like that

just something I've always wanted to work on bu never had the parts around for
if I could get my hands on that many jacks and knobs, I'd build a maaaassive tubescreamer project thing.

I'd build several different versions of each section (different input filters, different clipping sections, blah blah, all that), but have them all disconnected from one another. then connect all the sections though the jacks with short patch cables.
so it's like one of those big old timey switchboards used for telephones, but allowing you to get any combination of tubescreamer sections and mods

if that makes sense
the straight angle's pretty cool, but I think the ledge kinda carve would be super nice on this

the only thing that looks a bit out of place to me in the carve you drew out is how it's not even at the butt end of the guitar. like, there's more carve at the arm contour which may end up looking a little bit funky
just looks like a regular mini toggle to me..

I've fit the mini toggles from smallbear in the same spot keeley puts his without issue lots of times before
nice
is there a bit of a dent on the tele though? from the last picture it looks like a dent on the front behind the bridge
Quote by rickyj
you could have a sharp edge where the string rests at the bridge

this is the most probable explanation
can't say I've ever heard of them, but for that cheap they seem like a reasonable gamble if you're willing to take a bit of a risk
I'd be interested to see how they are actually
sweet

have you considered a carve instead of a flat top with the arm contour?


and I won't lie, I skimmed the title and opened the thread expecting to see a tele

edit: oop, I missed where you said you'd consider a carve. do iiit
lol, that thread.. I can understand how frustrating shipping delays can be, but SM has been one of the most reasonable places I've ever ordered from..
Jason and I made an order when I was working on my tele, and the order made it from stewmac, through canadian customs and up to us in less than 24 hours o.O

and because Im thinking of shipping delays now.. GAH.
I have a set of pickups on their way that I just want to be here now.. and I also have longboard trucks and wheels on order that have been sitting at the border for over a week now. I want my things now!


and for everyone: a while ago in the wtlt group there was talk of re-starting the wah modding thread, but I haven't checked the group in forever and it hasn't really been moving since last year..
anyone want to collaborate with me on a new thread over the next little while?
thanks guys

I say no to a refinish as well, since I'd like to leave it as much original as I can. I was considering buffing it just to bring back some shine, but I feel like this guitar needs to look as old as it is, so I'll probably leave it alone

I've still got it clamped up with no glue, but tonight I'll glue it up and leave it clamped for a while. the top's actually looking surprisingly flat now that I've had it clamped for so long. there's a bit of bracing on the bass side of the soundhole that started to separate from the top, which seems like a big cause of the warping...so once I glue that I should have a relatively flat top, just with a crack in it


and that thing in the background is just a little novelty ukelele type instrument made out of a coconut. it's just a souvenir from Cuba though, it's not a very high quality thing
here a couple close ups I took for a different thread a while ago
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/4444james4444/IMG_0021.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r144/4444james4444/IMG_0022.jpg
thanks for posting this

but just so you know, all the images up until fret levelling/dressing are broken links because they've been moved from one album to another or deleted
nope, the edge of the top is painted to give the look of binding, but the paint was chipping off at the corner which sort of makes it look like a few laminates put together

it's definitely solid..once I have a camera better than my phone around, I'll take a close up of the crack where you can see the bare wood


and just for progress, it's still clamped up in my little humidity fort right now. I think I'll leave it clamped and unglued for the night, then tomorrow I"ll glue and re-clamp, then leave it overnight again
Quote by Invader Jim
you'd better make that beauty sing again.

it actually played with the top cracked and warped like that, and sounded super good for something so broken. So I've got high hopes

I'll make you proud

Quote by nowa90
Is that a sapele top, or whats the grain?
Good luck on the crack, and congrats

I'm not actually sure, but along the crack where the bare wood's exposed it looks too light to be sapele.. the super wide grain sort of makes it look like sapele though..so theres another mystery
Well, I picked up an old tenor guitar from a guy on kijiji the other day for pretty cheap

I've been trying to do a bunch of research to date this guitar, but I'm having a bit of trouble..

What I DO know is that Stella guitars were made by two different companies in their time.

Oscar Schmidt (Washburn now owns the Oscar Schmidt name, but back then it was it's own company) made Stella's from the early 1900s until 1939, when Harmony bought the fretted instrument line and took over the Stella name. I'm not sure how long after the takeover Harmony kept the Stella name going though

Now, I'm trying to find the year this was made..or even a model number
lots of the O.S. stella's seem to have a sticker just inside the soundhole stating the model number and the Stella/O.S. name (like most acoustics), but mine's missing this..

inside closer to the neck there's a serial number that ends in H604, which seems like a harmony number. They usually end in Hxxx denoting the model number, except Harmony's H604 was this.
so..it's not that.

that's one thing that makes me confused about the year, or even who made this.

One thing that seems to set O.S. Stella's apart from Harmony's is the inlays.. O.S. guitars seem to always have an inlay at the 10th fret, instead of the 9th like you see on most guitars, including Harmony Stellas.
mine has a 10th fret inlay, so..there's a point for it being pre- 1939

something that suggests I have a Harmony, not an O.S., is the name on the headstock..
from what I've found it seems like pre-39 the 'Stella' was underlined, but mine is not. That being said, the post-39 non-underlined 'Stella' looks like it's in a slightly different font. but..it's not very different, the script is just slightly thicker in certain places

The last thing I've found that could point to the date is the bracing.
O.S.'s used ladder bracing, where later models used x-bracing. mine has ladder bracing that follows the same pattern O.S. used.

so..there's sort of things that point to it being made before 1939, but also a few that make me unsure (the harmony-esque serial number and the non-underlined name)

So for now what I'm assuming is that this was built in '39 or '40 right after Harmony bought out the Stella name, and was put together using old O.S. stock...maybe?


anyway, on to the project

the top's solid, but has a pretty bad crack in it and is separating from the sides. Same with the back

the neck's straight though, so that's a plus

I haven't done much acoustic restoration, so I'm new to this. but what I'm doing right now is clamping the top and back to where they should be in a little humid space. I'm running a humidifier underneath a little fort I made in the basement out of old table pieces and blankets

one I can get the top to hold close to in place, I'll glue it up and re-clamp it. Ill only glue the top and bottom to the sides though, and on the inside of the soundhole where the bracing separated from the top
so I'll leave the split in the top unglued..hoping it holds that way I guess

anyway, pictures:









also, the nut came off and I was out of clamps..so I used a capo
I've got a jb/59 set and its just what I want. I can get a nice dirty tone (though I don't usually use too much gain), but still get nice cleans. Just as a side note, I've actually got a bridge jb in the bridge (as usual), and a bridge 59 in the neck. So the necks just a bit hotter

You may also want to check out a SD jazz. I prefer the 59, but many people love the jb/jazz combo

Of course, you could mix and match whatever you want really. Those are just two of the more typical combos

And just for future reference, there's a 'which pickup?' Thread for questions like this
I went to toronto to pick up an old guitar today..I'm making a thread about it, but I'm having trouble finding a date..

it's a stella tenor guitar, and from what I've found so far it's from at the latest, the mid-40s
it's got a pretty bad crack in the top, but it's still pretty sweet.. playable, and it actually sounds nice

anyway, from what I know, Oscar Schmidt (who's now owned by washburn, but used to operate as their own guitar company pre-1939) used the Stella name on their guitars until 39 when Harmony bought out their fretted instrument lines and changed a few things until they stopped making them in the 60s

sooo..I still have no idea which company made this one.
one thing that separates O.S. stella's from those made by harmony seems to be the fret marker at the tenth fret instead of the ninth. They also used ladder bracing instead of x-bracing, and the stella logo is underlined

this one has the 10th inlay as well as lader bracing, but the logo isn't underlined :/
also, the serial number ends in H604. Which looks a lot like a harmony serial number, which end in Hxxx, identifying the model number
but harmony never made a 604 like this.. their H604 was this. Which it definitely isn't.

so..I have a pre-harmony buyout stella tenor guitar? ..maybe?
or one that harmony made right after they bought out O.S., and built with the parts left over?

I dunno, I'll make a restoration thread as I try to fix up the crack in the top, but if anyone knows anything that can help me track down a year that'd be awesome. for now I'm pretty sure it's at least pre-40-something, which is sweet

I'll post pics later tonight..people are coming over nooow
Quote by the_perdestrian
I don't think a locking nut nullifies the benefits of a reverse headstock. you still have to get up to tune before locking it. so while there will be variance after the fine tuning, you will start with a higher tension, and I believe you will still be higher overall than on a non reversed headstock.

I think this explanation actually proves that the length of the string behind the nut makes no difference in tension

say you tune up identical sets of strings on identical guitars (aside from the reverse headstock on one) and get both low strings to E
now if we have locking nuts and tighten them down both strings are still tuned to E (for the sake of argument, let's not worry about fine tuners and assume they both stay at the same pitch, since the variance in tuning is from the locking nut pressing the string out of tune, not from anything relavent to this example)

now the two lengths of identical string are pulled across identical lengths of working space tuned to the identical pitch.

how can they be different tensions?


when you unlock the locking nut, the tension stays the same on both of the strings regardless of the length of string beyond the nut. otherwise when you tune up, lock the nut then unlock it again, you'd have crazy jumps in tuning and tension which just don't make sense