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These are out of the RGEX, right? They're not epoxy'd in there, it's just strips of hot glue. Grab a small flathead screwdriver and pry those strips off, they'll pop off with minimal effort. I did it myself a few times to these pickups when I tried the magnet swapping trick from Lonephantom. (In fact, I just did to another set from an MTM2 no more than 15 minutes ago)

Edit: Also, there's a whole bunch of wax residue in there. They don't bother cleaning up pickups that are getting covers anyways.
Quote by Robbgnarly
be very careful while welding it together so it doesnt warp/distort the metal.

Yes. Look up "tack welding", which is a 100% essential approach for something like this.
Did you really mean to post this in GB&C? Seems like more of a GG&A sort of thing.
Quote by n1ckn1ce

Got lazy smart on this one...
Fixed that right up...
Quote by bassman10101
put something behind it (cloth, large square of cardboard) and just go nuts haha remember, the way you tell a jackson pollock from a fake is that the real deal does not stay on the canvas, if you take the square canvas it would fit somewhere in his studio among the spatter. a fake will only have paint on the canvas.

Truly the mark of a great, great, great, great artist.
Quote by ORCRiST
NO. IT'S NOT.

NEVER, EVER F**KING DO THIS.

NEVER UNDER ANY F**KING CIRCUMSTANCES MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO A FLOYD (OFR OR cheap clone) with the strings under tension!!!!!!111!1!1!

F**king Herp Derp, get a clue.

Wow, that's a little extreme, isn't it? While it does seem like it would be the dumbest thing a person could do to their Floyd, it really doesn't cause any damage unless you adjust your action all the time.
Quote by stonyman65
NO. DO NOT turn those studs under tension. It doesn't really matter the quality of the bridge, its metal rubbing on metal. Sooner or later, those edges will wear out. I've done this to enough trems to know what happens.

Do you know what's also metal rubbing on metal? Car engines. They seem fine, don't they? What you do to avoid the metal grinding and binding is rub some chapstick (or teflon grease) in the groove on the post so the knife edge gets coated in the stuff while you turn it. There is no harm in being paranoid here, though. But I have adjusted more than ten good Floyds (and Ibanez varieties too) this way and checked the return on a rather good tuner and they've not been a single sent out afterwards. In fact, the lubrication eliminated the problem on the ones that had return issues.
...it might melt, but that depends on what you painted it with.
Quote by LeviMan_2001
It's never painted on, unless the guitar is suuuuuuper el cheapo

Price doesn't factor into this a lot... That Paul Landers ESP sig had them painted on and that cost a pretty penny. Painting them on requires a lot of work with masking and stuff, so it's really a rather inefficient way of doing it and will cost more.

...it also looks like shit most of the time, even on the PL ESP.
DBZ makes the Imperial, which is sorta like a bulkier doublecut Les Paul with S-style body edges.

Check it out here.

How about showing us how the first build went?
You can exchange the lock screws for some shorter ones and save yourself some headache.
The only wire that you should care about when it comes to a TOM is the single one that goes from any ground in the electronics cavity and into the hole where the treble side the post sits. The strings will make sure the tailpiece gets a ground connection too.
^That's good advice. If you're good with the router then you can make a plateau on an area of the mahogany that sits under the bridge and then dig out a matching recess on the back of the spalt maple so the actual thickness of the maple under the bridge is very minimal.

edit: Like this-

Walnut! It's gonna look way more special with a recessed TOM, through-body stringing and (hopefully) a nice finish that lets the grain show through.
Quote by Boysie8
Pikka bird, I'm not sure that the pickup surface is flat, most seem to curve from 3.5 to flat along the surface. You are right about the ToM reasons though.

That curve has flattened out before the end of the neck pickup rout on all the LPs I've seen and is meant to camouflage the angle of the neck so the fretboard sits parallel to the body surface next to it.
Looks a LOT better than I thought it would. Doo eet!
^But the 3.5° angle is to get the proper string action for the TOM bridge and not to compensate for the carvings. The area that holds the bridge and pickups on a regular carved top LP is flat, so if they recessed the TOM then there'd be no need for the angle.
^I wanted to say exactly the same as that guy.
I assume you don't want a blade switch but rather a LP-style one... If that's the case then no, I've never seen one, but you can get 5-position rotary switches which would fit in the same hole as a regular LP pickup selector switch. You can make it look almost as inconspicuous with the right knob on the shaft.
Well, there's this mod that can help with the problem...



...you don't wanna see the back, though.
Quote by Darkdevil725
I use to use just a piece of wood and I would just remove all tension from the springs so the tension from the strings would hold it in place.

This works, but I'd prefer to put the piece on the other side and over-tighten the springs. That way it will also stay put if you take all your strings off when changing them.
^Yes! Irongears are really rocking... I have a set of Steam Hammers that I love the hell out of. And if the trem gives you problems just swap it for a Gotoh Floyd (or block it)
Do you know how to really set it up properly in the first place? That's something that many people don't learn quite properly.
Quote by LeviMan_2001
I wouldn't try to pass the strings through string through holes, that'd be hell on tuning stability. Any place where you can have friction, you will have less tuning stability.

I've seen it placed in a way so the B5 sat far enough forward that the strings didn't touch the edges of the holes, but I guess you're right- that had to be due to some amazing stroke of luck with the exit off the rollers matching up with how the bridge is intonated and all.

It's easy to just cut some grooves into the back lip of the plate, though. You just need an angle grinder or a grinding wheel of any sort. But I personally like to keep the top line unbroken, so I'd drill the holes larger with a step drill bit so the strings wouldn't touch.
^An Edwards Horizon III.
^Take it back... If it is properly setup (floating parallel to the body surface) AND the strings have been sufficiently stretched then there can be a number of things wrong with it- knives binding in the post grooves, posts ovaling the wood, the trem block can even be a little loose. All of this isn't to be expected from a brand new guitar.
Quote by Kamikaze1014
I have no idea what your are talking about in terms of "graphics".

I'm thinking of the graphic design on the paintjob.

imconfused

I can't be convinced that the graphics they apply to the guitars are anything but a printed vinyl sheet or something similar. Definitely not paintjobs.
You liked the 7321 neck's thickness, but at the same time it was too thing? Does not compute. Anyways, if it was too thin then I think you'll find the 7x21 necks aren't any thicker. However, they're still what I'd recommend. I've seen them go as low as 400 bucks, and they rarely go above 600.

edit: Case in point- this one. If you can convince him to ship to Canada then you've got a sweet deal here, especially with the upgraded pickups. That particular combo is all the rage these days. The paintjob can always be redone.
Cream binding around a natural finished maple cap? I see your mock-up has multi-ply binding with contrasting layers, but I don't see the material for that in your package...

The last one was very well made, so I shall be following this for sure.
I personally prefer the look of Sperzel with keystone buttons for 3+3 headstocks, and they work very nicely (have a set on my trusty Cort), but their gear ratio is slightly less accurate than I'd like. I've gotten used to it, though. It's just a matter of settling into new habits when tuning up. Greatly recommended.

Another plus about them is that you can flip them. Meaning you can turn a left-handed tuner into a right-handed one so you can use them as 3+3 even if you can only find a 6 in line set, or you can mix and match for 4+2 or 5+1 setups. Aww yeah!
^That... You can get a quality Telecaster bridge like the Wilkinson that Guitarfetish sells which has both string-thru and topload string holes. That means that you can pass the strings through six holes in the back wall of the bridge plate. That's by far the cleanest looking B5 setup I've seen, and the Wilkinson bridge is a rather nice upgrade too.

edit: The non-Wilikinson Tele bridge they sell at Guitarfetish has those holes too, it seams. Should also be a quality part, seeing as how it's the simplest of all guitar bridges (except for that Dar Armstrong one) and therefore hard to screw up. It has grooved saddles, but isn't compensated like the Wilkinson.
They made the S370 in a copper finish, but that has a single coil in the middle position. Not quite bronze, but you might as well describe it as such.



They came with the TRS-101 tremolo or the ILT1 depending on the year. Neither of these units is stellar but it won't crap out unexpectedly. They are direct swaps for any LFR or OFR, though. Again, depending on the year it'll come with either Axis or Powersound pickups.


Is that the one?
Or since you're in the Netherlands, you might check out wdmusic.co.uk instead so you don't get hit with crazy taxes and shipping.

There are a bunch of parts stores online (my favourites being the aforementioned wdmusic and Thomann.de), and eBay sellers too, look at ebay.de, ebay.co.uk, ebay.nl.

But since your guitar isn't a 100% standard shape you'll probably have to cut the pickguard yourself. To do this properly you'll need some pickguard material, some MDF or plywood for templates, a jigsaw, a variable speed router and a chamfer bit for the router with a ball bearing at the bottom.
^Beat me to it...

TS: If you want to use it then I suggest you read what it is capable of so you doesn't waste money on a specialty product that you won't be using to its full extent.
^Good progress... And yeah, your bro got you there...

Quote by Darkdevil725
The picture on the box suggest that these pickups use sound to shove as much testosterone into your body as possible.

Well yeah, they're named after bareknuckle boxing. Hardly an effeminate kind of sport.
Ooh, my favourite cover option- black with regular screws. How'd you know?
Quote by guitar-tin
The name ha? Wrong guess! hehehe

Naw, the font you used on the back of the headstock... It's not exactly got the shiniest reputation because of its overuse.
Comic Sans MS? Kill!

That's my only complaint. I love the rounded edges on the headstock and the white/wood contrast. Do go on.
So it's possible to bend it two-dimensionally? Quite the task, I must say.
Stunning... I forgot- did you bend that top onto the body?