It depends on what kind of tuner you're using. If you have one of the cheaper Korg tuners you can just tune all your strings to the point where the needle is over the 430 hz dot and you'll be pretty close to a quarter step. Half step you just press the flat button once and tune normally.
Why would you ask The Pit? Should have gone to GB&C if you want answers that exclude immaturity.
I would go with maybe an LTD M-series with a 25.5'' scale with 11s or maybe a Schecter with a 26.5'' if you want to use 9s or 10s. If you like the action of your current ESP brand guitar then I'm sure you'll find something comfortable to you that's a bit more suited for downtuning.
That's why Dean quit and went off to form DBZ Guitars, which are essentially the same basic shapes with badass carved tops and paint jobs. I think Dean Guitars is under the control of a bunch of corporate douches who could care less about Dime's legacy and just want more money.
^ As much as I would like to have a Baritone Ibby 7, I can't see myself ever paying $1500 for it. I mean at that price I might as well buy a 2010 Ibanez or Schecter guitar.
Quote by Mazzakazza
What what what. You're using a 68 over a 25.5" for low F#?

I use 70s for Low B. Anything below 65 I can't cope for a low B, you must have a bit of flop, now?

Oh wow dude, you must have beastly fingers. Did you have to drill your tuning peg to get it to go through? I had to when I used a 70.

I mean, I suppose from your perspective I have a lot of flop. When I was in G# with the 12-68 the notes sounded kind of shrill, but I did like the tension. The only problem with that is it didn't allow me to solo outside of scale runs because I could barely bend my strings without them tearing up my fingertips. It also made it a little difficult to form larger arpeggios and barre chords because I felt like I had to stress too much to fret the notes.
Quote by Mazzakazza
Dude, what, you're using a .68 for a low F#?

: O

Haha, it's on a 25.5 scale. It actually feels pretty nice. I used to use a 68 for a low G# but it was too tense, so I went down a step. F is the point at which it gets floppy, but at F# it feels nice, not too tight and rounded off but not too floppy or hard to tremolo pick on.

Idk, it seems like most people downtune so they can just chug for 5 minutes straight through every song. IMO the secret to downtuning is to not get addicted to crunch. I try to keep my songwriting dynamic, and in some songs I intentionally hold off on using the 7th string until the most dramatic part of the song, just adds so much more impact to it.
Hey guys, I forgot to post this in here for you, but about a week ago I spent a few hours wiring my D'Sonic 7 into my 07' 7321, ignore the few scuffs under the strings, that's just some of the wax that came off of the pickup when I was putting the screws through the wings:

It definitely sounds 10x clearer than the stock Ibanez pickups, and the clarity and crunchiness I get out of my low strings now is great. Right now it's downtuned to drop F# with Elixir Nanowebs from 12-68.

The next thing I'll probably invest in is a D'Activator 7 for the neck, as DiMarzio's EQ chart shows it having a lower amount of bass than most of the other 7 string pups. I figure that should come in handy for some crisp sounding leads and a Strat-eqsue split coil sound.
I play both drums and guitar, I'm a bit better at drums than guitar. Started seriously drumming when I was 12, picked up guitar at 14. Now I'm finding myself sitting here years later programming drum riffs that I've written into FL9 and recording my own guitar riffs over them. I'd rather be a one man band than amazingly good at one instrument and horrible at the other.
My guess is a slight decrease in temperature at night causing the metal to slightly contract, thus making your tuning a bit sharp.
From what I know the ADxxVTs are the predecessors of the VTs. I have an AD15VT, it's has a great clean channel for running a distortion pedal through, but none of the onboard distortion really sounds exceptional to me. If you're going to be jamming you'll need at least the 30, the 15 just isn't loud enough to facilitate jammage between multiple people.

The onboard effects are nice though, lots of settings that you can tweak to change them too. I've been debating between getting a VT100 or a Randall 4x12 myself, the only thing swaying me from the VOX is that it's only a 2x12.
Oh my God. I love the new RGD7, I must have one. An RG with an S series trem in it? Yes please!
My penis is named Moby, and my testicles are Ahab and Ishmael.
Quote by _-Joey-_
I tried it & it still doesn't work!

Oh, well, a shop might be able to fix it if they have someone experienced enough to know what's wrong. I'd try contacting Digitech's customer support first though.

Here's a link to it
I used to have one of those, when I first got it I thought it was broken. You have to calibrate the foot pedal using the instructions in the manual.
Well, provided you're downtuning with the 52 you should be relatively fine. You'll need to adjust your intonation, and maybe change your action a little bit to eliminate any fret buzz. You'll need a 1.5mm hex key to adjust saddle action on an Ibanez fixed bridge.
You can only go so big before your tower will come crashing down. You should look into a piezo system, you'll get a nice near-acoustic sound, and you won't have to worry about how to feasibly hold some sort of half electric half acoustic contraption.
NICE Apex 2. I love the green shadow flat finish. It looks so unique in person. Always just looks like regular green in pictures, but it can look almost black from a certain angle. I wish Ibanez could incorporate more colors in that style (red specifically).

Anyways, I've come with a question. I'm sort of debating on what I should start saving up for. I play both drums and guitar, and my guitarist from my band I play drums for wants to start a side project with me on guitar and him on vocals. Now, unfortunately I'm stuck with a small VOX Ad15vt practice amp, or I can use his Marshall MG100 (yes, I know this amp has no gain).

So, should I:

A. Save up enough cash to buy my own tube amp to gig with, or

B. Save up the money for a D'Sonic 7 and an X2N 7 for my 7321 and then just EQ the hell out of his mediocre Marshall and run my distortion pedal into it? The pedal in question is the same one in my sig btw.

And in case anyone is wondering why I would get two bridge pickups, it's because I want to put the D'sonic in the bridge to attain some djentyness, and then put the X2N in the neck position with the hot rail facing the neck for some screaming lead tones.
What do you mean it's being fretted at the first fret? Are you saying it's got a massive amount of fret buzz?

If I were you I'd finish putting all the strings on, and then check for any neck and action problems.
The B3's and B7's are for archtop guitars.
JC means Japanese Custom Shop I think, I don't think it's a production model.
The Whammy's tracking isn't very good, I'd love to own a POG or HOG though, but I just don't have the money.
If you're going to do it, I recommend you get some thicker strings, at least 11's, maybe 12's or 13's depending on what kind of tension you're used to.

May want to try using denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to remove any paint on the inside of the bridge pieces where they make contact with their posts, you can't see it anyways, so it doesn't matter if it's not painted.
The only thing that makes my picture art is that there's a frame around it. But the stage lights were tinted orange and lit up the beechwood shells and cymbals. I dig it.

They're decent, you can't wash the shirt for a while though (72 hrs), and I'd avoid sharp angles in the shape of the pattern as well, as they tear very easily if folded too soon.
What a twist to a series of commercials, Chad marries the Verizon guy because he's secretly just as gay as the rest of them.
Quote by ugmung
anyway. so i've decided, i need to get a new bridge pickup for my RG, because my Evo is really not working for me.

...Well there goes my offer to trade my SG for your RG. Considering the whole fourth page of your FT thread on is bumps from you.

One thing that I've been wondering about is why Ibanez had to be too cheap to throw in the 1.5mm Allen wrench required to adjust the bridge saddle height on the 7321. Thank god I have a multi-Allen tool though or I'd be plagued with fret buzz.
Quote by noobguy
I asked for other recommendations that were better value, no one has given me any. Care to help?

Ibanez RG321

Ibanez RG3EXQM1

I'm telling you dude, unless you want to shell out over $400 for an Ibby with a decent trem, you'd be better off going with a fixed bridge. If you haven't had any experience with floating bridges before I advise you to read up on how to change strings, intonate, level them, etc if you really are intent on buying a guitar with a trem.

The guitar Pr0gnut recommended isn't bad, but if you start having problems with the Edge III you'll have to swap it out for an OFR which will run you ~$170.
Edge III's are notorious for being bad trems. If I were you I'd go for the RG3EX1 or RG321, both of them are fixed bridge guitars, which will in the long run end up being for the better.

The 321 has a mahogany body, which you could have routed and fitted with an Original Floyd Rose at a later time.
^ Epic KXKs. I want one now.

Quote by SomebodySomeone
i think Untouchables is a very underrated album. as i mentioned before, their best written song IMO, is Thoughtless.

Take a look in a Mirror was half decent, half crap IMO.

Untouchables was by far their saddest album, and they used a lot of cool sounding synth strings and chords. Take a Look in The Mirror is alright, sounds like they kind of rushed it though, and "Play Me" kind of killed the vibe for me.

Also, I just put a set of Medium Dean Markley Blue Steels with a .65 bass string for my low G# on my RG7. I LOVE the wound G string, I can finally form 5 and 6 string chords without the plain G sticking out like an erection in aquatics class
Hrm. Well, the only thing I really buy from GC is a new guitar every once in a while, just because I prefer the safety of transporting the guitar to my house on my own rather than relying on UPS or FedEx.

I tried getting all the heads (9 of them) for my drum kit from MF, but half of the stuff was on back-order, so I ended up going to Sam Ash to get what I needed. However, upon arriving at Sam Ash, a bunch of goddamn scene kids were in the drum department bashing away on the kits, requiring me to yell through half of my transaction.
Quote by hmmm_de_hum
Nah ive always had a guilty pleasure for classic Nu metal artists, i just have a thing for a chorus that just sounds right

I know what you mean. I love me some old Drowning Pool and Korn, but you mention the name of a Nu Metal band around this place and a bunch of close minded tools tell you that all Nu Metal sucks. What the shredders and Neoclassical players that lurk these forums don't seem to understand is that not all people want to listen to 800 notes per minute all the time. Don't get me wrong, I love me a good emotion filled solo, but I prefer musical dynamics over shredding speed.
Cut off the burnt parts of the hair, but only cut off the areas that are visibly different.
Dimebag tuned to this on Cowboys, Vulgar, and Far Beyond Driven. He went down to C# on The Great Southern Trendkill, and then he tuned 1 and a 1/4 steps down for Reinventing the Steel.
You could just buy some thicker strings. If you like tension then you'd probably like 11's more.
Why won't they list the ISP's? This could just be a scare tactic. I want to know which ISP's will be doing this, and how they can actually prove that you were file sharing. Will they be paying attention to small packets (such as torrenting and P2P programs) or large files being transferred?
Provided that you don't have Parkinson's disease you should be able to get some straight strips of wood. Just make sure you set your saw up right.
Has anyone had a chance to play them yet? If so, how bright is the tone?

My experience with coated strings is they start off somewhat twangy and eventually work their way down to a more mellow sound, but I'm curious to know if the materials they used are any different. If they do keep their brightness (like stainless steel sets do) then I might consider picking up a set, but for the price I want to make sure I'm paying for what I want tone-wise.