ormsby guitars posts
Found 400 results
Found 400 results
Sweet! I'd prefer a reverse of that headstock though.
Ormsby's business must've really taken off. He hasn't posted in ages so he's probably super busy!
if i recall the exchange rate, you may be better off here! I almost bought a board big enough for probably 4 ultra wide necks (4" wide at the most) for about $150 i think it was. same with the maple, but i really don't think i should tell you how cheap i got a board like that in maple once..
but back to the wenge, i can justify the cost, i just wanted alot more experience building before i tried it.
maybe we can workout a deal for some wood trafficking to australia?
Looking through their products, 1829 looks like a suitable option, but their Selection Guide suggests 10 and 45.
Which would you suggest?
Thanks for your time
In your mind what'd the best way to apply a stain to a neck through guitar where you only want the stain on the wings? Will something like frogtape/painters tape keep the stain from going where you don't want it?
Crazy question I asked int eh small questions thread but thought I would get your opinion.
Is it practical to make one's own frets out of exotic materials like obsidian? How durable do you think they would be? I know I would have to create a precise template to match the radius of the neck and whatnot, and it would be delicate cutting the tang, but it was an idea I had for getting black frets on a bass.
So, stupid? Profound? Or interesting?
I'm with Schism, the bubinga is definitely my favorite, for the solid colors, I like the Orange/Rust one.
Perry, have you ever heard of Tamo, also called Japanese Ash? I love the look of this, but I can't find anything thick enough to carve...
I'm a bit torn with regards to doing the finishing on my current build. I've got an ash body that I want to shadow the grain on, but I'm not sure whether to use black grain filler or a black stain. I'm guessing the grain filler gives one shade to the grain, no matter how many applications, then the second colour takes to the pulp. As for the black staining, my understanding is that multiple applications will vary the intensity, so that I get a nice transition from black grain colour to whatever colour I use on the pulp.
Is that pretty much right? Also, does ash take better to grain filling or a black stain first?
Perry, that myrtle looks sexy!
which datesare you gonna be in baltimore btw?
On average, how long does it take you to wind a single coil of a pickup? Id like to wind my own pickups some day, if I ever get enough money for equipment.
hey perry, another question for you:
best 'heavy' Australian tonewood you have worked with? Planning on 7 or 8 strings, so a heavy, strong wood would be great. I have the set up to do laminates for a neck through and stuff too, so that's no problem
Found out one of the guys I work with at uni has mates in the timber industry (who will give him any wood for free, already has basically every tool under the sun, and builds acoustics for his mates. Score )
might even decide to do a multi-scale style guitar (I know it will have nothing on yours lol, but going to try building the necks in builders pine first anyway, to see if I like it and it intonates well)
hey perry i'm refretting a guitar with binding around the fretboard and was wandering if you think luthiers from around my area (Bondi) would bother to bend and trim the fretwire for me if i supply my own fretwire and how much do you think they would charge (would you offer this service?), i have refretted necks before and don't have the tools to do this and don't want to waste $100+ at stewmac when i will only use it once,
thanks heaps mate!
Which kind or Dremel bit do you use?
and a rounded file and rasp. It was my first neck through and I glued the neck piece to the body before shaping it.
Ok well i have different more specific questions.
Do you have a good process for shaping the area of the neck really close to the body on a neck through.
The wings on the guitar get in the way of the spoke shave and I can't gently curve the body into the neck.
The other question is still about the inlays
How do you cut out the area in the neck that the inlay goes into
do you use a dremmel tool or a knife router what?
Hi perry, I love your work by the way and have to questions to try and improve my guitar making.
How do you create an arch top guitar?
What is your process of picking wood?
How do you do your epic inlay work?
Thank you so much your guitars are a great inspiration.
dunno if its been answered already, but how much will the cheapest one in this line cost?
that burn copper/orange is beyond beautiful. im quite interested!
hi perry, just a question about the body blanks you sell,
i know they are machined/ready to use for a strat shaped guitar, but is it posible that you could have one machined so that it could be made into a X shaped (like a BCR Stealth) guitar?
and if so, how much more could this cost.
oh, just found a wattyl satin finish ^^' feel a bit of a fool now
How do I apply it? Spray gun 1 coat, fine sanding, spary another, finer, spray another, finer still, and another then steel wool, or do I only do 1 coat?
What happens if the owner is stoked and you're not?
hey perry. I know we overload you with questions a fair bit, and I have been reading this thread for ages, but I have a few questions.
Planning a build similar to an ESP F, only not as many 'burrs', and the bevels go all the way down to the bottom edge. I understand how to route for the 7 string and how to intonate, but I have a few problems...
1. if I intend to have the neck pocket angle equal to 0 degrees, using a tonepros tunomatic, how much will I need to recess the bridge? I think it should be about 7mm, but I don't want to screw it up
2. I am buying new tools for this one, and have chosen most of the stuff except the router - I am thinking about a hitachi, but the versatility of a dremel with the plunge router attachment seems more useful to me, especially given I want to do inlays and engravings on the top... Your thoughts? They are roughly the same cost if I get the hitachi second hand
3. The finish: what sort of filler do you use? I intend to use tasmanian blackwood (surprisingly the locals don't have mahogany, but they have tas :P), which has a grain similar to mahogany. I think you mentioned oil, but if I can't get specialised filler is there an alternative?
I will probably do my painting in automotive paint (and can rent a spray room if need be), but there is one last thing... a satin finish. I don't know how to make a satin finish, and I can only find urethane and poly mixes. is there a extra additive to the urethane, or is it another kit entirely?
Thanks mate, you're a hero