Except, it perfectly matches your arm movement, and why I do a '2" fan', and won't do anything else.

Intonation IS improved.

There ARE benefits to using Multiscale on a six. Tonally, and ergonomically.

Facebook gets a lot of photos. But most of the metal style instruments get threads in the luthiers or dealers section of
Nope, not banned, just chose not to play the silly games some mods felt like playing
Quote by Ippon
Sweet! I'd prefer a reverse of that headstock though.

Ormsby's business must've really taken off. He hasn't posted in ages so he's probably super busy!

Nah, Ive always been swamped with work. I'd love to share my work here like old days, but it seems some mods werent too happy with that. Oh well, you guys will just have to follow my facebook!
Tuner to nut length has ZERO effect on the tension required to obtain a particular pitch. HOWEVER, the longer the nut to tuner length is, the more overall string length there is to spread any load (fretting, bending, trem movement) over. A longer 'dead' string length = a lighter feel when bending, but you do have to achieve the same increase in tension to reach the same pitch. Eg: you would have to bend slightly further... you would have to pull up on the tremolo further, etc.

Longer dead string length also allows for more accurate intonation, but it's so minimal is nearly impossible to measure. This is because the increase in pitch when fretting is spread out over the entire string length.
Quote by conor1148
if i recall the exchange rate, you may be better off here! I almost bought a board big enough for probably 4 ultra wide necks (4" wide at the most) for about $150 i think it was. same with the maple, but i really don't think i should tell you how cheap i got a board like that in maple once..

but back to the wenge, i can justify the cost, i just wanted alot more experience building before i tried it.

maybe we can workout a deal for some wood trafficking to australia?

It's the shipping that kills it. Wenge is heavy. And I need PLANKS, not single pieces
hehe, i can't unsee that smiley face either. I'll be standing there just looking at it in the workshop, smiling back at 'him'.

Also, Sharks mouth here (no the best pic, can't find it right now):
Its quite expensive here. $680 (aussie... $600ish US) got me 1 bass, and 6 guitar necks and 4-5 fretboards. I had to cut it myself, it was a large plank.

Same in Maple would be $150-200??

I use it because it sounds good, looks awesome, and people are sick of Maple and Mahogany Pain in the butt to shape though, and the dust gives everyone wicked black wood boogers!!
Sorry to leave you hanging guys, only just uploaded pics, but this one was finished in June...

Shielded cavity.

went with the MEC pre-amp. Sounds cool.

neck pickup - noiseless with a true single coil tone

Neck bolted on

pickups and electrics done...
sorry guys, didnt get a photo of the sunbursting, and it's all finished and with the client now. Been SOOOO busy the last three months I havent even had time to take photos

Really happy with how this one turned out. Might end up changing to Gold fretwire, and also still haven't completed the scalloping. Got it finished at 10:30 on a Saturday night, then left for our US trip the next day.

I REALLY love this colour combo. Blue burst with the dark neck. Awesome!

Anyway, here she is.... Diablo

Torquoise side dots

Kingman Blue stone truss rod cover

Quote by lostcreation333
Looking through their products, 1829 looks like a suitable option, but their Selection Guide suggests 10 and 45.

Which would you suggest?

Thanks for your time

Whatever the one is that StewMac sells!

Just one photo today. This one will be finished mid next week, so lots more then.

See if you can see the join in the headstock without going back to previous posts. Pretty good match i reckon
Recessed bridge pieces.

the top is carved where the bridges go, and they have a flat bottom, hence the recessing.


Quote by C/ruel
In your mind what'd the best way to apply a stain to a neck through guitar where you only want the stain on the wings? Will something like frogtape/painters tape keep the stain from going where you don't want it?

You can do that, but there is a chance it will seep under. I'd add colour to the clear, and spray it instead.
Havent used that wood before, sorry.

Best way to learn with pickups is to start winding. You'll start seeing differences and how tones are affected by small changes in your methods and specs as you go.

If you need parts for pickups, we can assist. We are dropping most guitar parts, but will be starting a pickup part catalogue soon.
Quote by Shinozoku
Crazy question I asked int eh small questions thread but thought I would get your opinion.

Is it practical to make one's own frets out of exotic materials like obsidian? How durable do you think they would be? I know I would have to create a precise template to match the radius of the neck and whatnot, and it would be delicate cutting the tang, but it was an idea I had for getting black frets on a bass.

So, stupid? Profound? Or interesting?

You'll never know unless you try!!

But, sounds like a lot of work...
Quote by MonkeyLink07
I'm with Schism, the bubinga is definitely my favorite, for the solid colors, I like the Orange/Rust one.

Off Topic:
Perry, have you ever heard of Tamo, also called Japanese Ash? I love the look of this, but I can't find anything thick enough to carve...
Image Clicky

Yeah Ive seen that stuff before, even used it back in the day when I was a cabinet maker, but Ive only seen it as a veneer also.
Quote by -MintSauce-

I'm a bit torn with regards to doing the finishing on my current build. I've got an ash body that I want to shadow the grain on, but I'm not sure whether to use black grain filler or a black stain. I'm guessing the grain filler gives one shade to the grain, no matter how many applications, then the second colour takes to the pulp. As for the black staining, my understanding is that multiple applications will vary the intensity, so that I get a nice transition from black grain colour to whatever colour I use on the pulp.

Is that pretty much right? Also, does ash take better to grain filling or a black stain first?

Grain filler purely filles the open pores of the grain. Using a similarly coloured, or contrasting filler, is up to you.

Stain is absorbed into the wood fibres, changing the colour. Stain will also colour most grain fillers.

You can add stain to your lacquer, if it's compatible (test first), and tint the clears to get a different shade too. Often, adding colour to the clear, has a different look to using the stain directly on the timber.
Quote by blindsagacity
Perry, that myrtle looks sexy!

which datesare you gonna be in baltimore btw?

Arrive noon 12th June, leave noon 14th June. I think we have an appointment with my idol at his factory on the 12th
Quote by MonkeyLink07
On average, how long does it take you to wind a single coil of a pickup? Id like to wind my own pickups some day, if I ever get enough money for equipment.

Well, this is 65 hours work:

Single coils take a lot less time to make than humbuckers. Maybe 1.5 hours MAX for a set of three strat single coils, including wiring, and potting. Eg: from parts, to working.

We are getting a CNC pickup winder soon. Cant wait! We'll finally be able to really start ramping up production. At the moment we just cant seem to make them fast enough to keep up with orders. The CNC is totally customisable, so we will be able to match the hand winding process nicely.... but do five coils at a time.
Flame Myrtle top


Birdseye Maple

I was always kind of reserving the Myrtle one for myself as a personal guitar. But, now im liking the birdseye. Maybe I can do without either
Bridge pickup

Two Jazz base inspired pickups (different spacing), nickel silver base, forbon base. Im using a different diameter magnet wire for these coils, so the DC resistance should be around the same, but the number of windings will be very different.

Ground tab

Same as the neck pickup, the brass mounting screws are non magnetic (so they dont have an effect on the magnetic field) and are captured within the coil.

Clip to stop the wiring being pulled off...



Part one of the custom covers...

So, time to wind pickups.

Neck pickup will be a hum cancelling single coil. Lets start with that.

Standard Jazz bass style, although the spacing for the magnets are slightly different to suit angled installation on a Multiscale body.

Ive made two 'halves' and wound them. Before winding, I added a non magnetic fixing screw. After winding, the screw is captured within the pickup... it cant get out. But, there is a hole in the top to access it.

First one mounted. Nickel Silver base plate. Four conductor wiring.

both mounted. You can see the mounting screw goes through the nickel silver base into a forbon bottom. Note copper material...

Finished, and tested.

Copper foil has been bent over the wiring, to keep everything entirely shielded. Copper is then soldered into place, sealing the entire unit as one. I need to get a better shot of this.
Ok, so over the white with orange fill, Ive added a platinum pearl. Its an additive to give it a "classier" look i guess. Rather than plain white, it now has a kind of glow to it. Its not like metallic, which is metal pieces suspended in a solid colour paint, its a tiny tiny flake of pearl (im pretty sure its actually shell, or at least a natural substance) suspended in a transperant (but not pure clear) binder.

So, its mostly see through. But it does take a slight bit of the colour away. Thats cool, I allowed for that.

You can also add pearl directly into the solid paint, like a metallic. The pearl reflects different colours depending on the angle and colour etc. EG: blue pearl into a royal blue paint gives it a subtle colour changing effect as light hits it.

Its VERY hard to capture in a photo. Its microscopic particals afterall...

Quote by hypergeek
hey perry, another question for you:
best 'heavy' Australian tonewood you have worked with? Planning on 7 or 8 strings, so a heavy, strong wood would be great. I have the set up to do laminates for a neck through and stuff too, so that's no problem
Found out one of the guys I work with at uni has mates in the timber industry (who will give him any wood for free, already has basically every tool under the sun, and builds acoustics for his mates. Score )
might even decide to do a multi-scale style guitar (I know it will have nothing on yours lol, but going to try building the necks in builders pine first anyway, to see if I like it and it intonates well)

Heavy as in weight? Why?

Heavy as in sound? Tassie Blackwood is easy to carve, sounds good, and is strong enough (but not ultra strong). QLD Maple is the same. Both easy to get.
Quote by Ashlakh
hey perry i'm refretting a guitar with binding around the fretboard and was wandering if you think luthiers from around my area (Bondi) would bother to bend and trim the fretwire for me if i supply my own fretwire and how much do you think they would charge (would you offer this service?), i have refretted necks before and don't have the tools to do this and don't want to waste $100+ at stewmac when i will only use it once,

thanks heaps mate!

Its a two second job. If they charge you anything, I would be amazed.

We have a policy. If its less than a ten minute job (curving frets, truss adjustments, single string replacement, file a worn saddle, etc etc) then we dont charge at all. Customer service. People remember it.

OOPS: just realised you said trimming also. I guess thats the sort of job Id tell someone to grab the tool, and just do it themselves. But some guys wouldnt be comfortable letting someone use their tools i guess. I have some guys who like to do their own building but they dont want to buy their own diamond tools, fret presses, etc. They just come down and use mine. I just charge them what my hourly overheads are (rent/electricity/insurance/costs/etc per year, divided by 52 weeks, divided by 48 hours). So, im not losing money. Im not making money. Ive got a loyal customer. I dont have to actually do the work :P

To do it properly, you'll need to supply the neck/fretboard to get sizing correct. I reckon $25-40 would cover it. Depends on how they price...
Quote by lil PopTart kid
Which kind or Dremel bit do you use?

and a rounded file and rasp. It was my first neck through and I glued the neck piece to the body before shaping it.

I use the same sizes as the two smallest ones from Stewmac, the down cut bits.

Half round files, yup.
Quote by lil PopTart kid
Ok well i have different more specific questions.
Do you have a good process for shaping the area of the neck really close to the body on a neck through.
The wings on the guitar get in the way of the spoke shave and I can't gently curve the body into the neck.

The other question is still about the inlays
How do you cut out the area in the neck that the inlay goes into
do you use a dremmel tool or a knife router what?

I use a file and rasp in those areas.

Dremel all the way!
Quote by lil PopTart kid
Hi perry, I love your work by the way and have to questions to try and improve my guitar making.

How do you create an arch top guitar?

Best to look at my previous builds and follow the photos.

Quote by lil PopTart kid

What is your process of picking wood?

Its got to be WELL dried, straight, nice grain, weight, and respond well to my tap tests.

Quote by lil PopTart kid

How do you do your epic inlay work?

Same as everyone else? I dont think there are too many ways to do it by hand.

Quote by lil PopTart kid

Thank you so much your guitars are a great inspiration.


These are all pretty open questions. If you have more specific ones, post them up, but some of these could fill a book on their own!
Quote by conor1148
dunno if its been answered already, but how much will the cheapest one in this line cost?

that burn copper/orange is beyond beautiful. im quite interested!

Yeah the copper one is my favourite now too, but the birdseye topped one is really catching my eye now its got a sunburst! Hard to choose my favourite now.

I am not sure on the current rules on pricing in a thread (who even knows where the rules are, they are all over the place...). Surely if someone asks a price, I can quote them. But, there are a couple mods who seem a little trigger happy, so maybe you should PM me.

But, as soon as the first one is assembled, it will be given to a local store for evaluation. If they go ahead (and they seem to love my stuff) they may very well take the entire amount. Ive been told not to bother with the evaluation, and just finish them all off and bring them in. They currently sell my pickups, and their first order was four times larger than any other store (45 pickups), and they sold those out within weeks, and have continued to repeat that order each time. So, there is a sales history there, and a couple of the staff have current orders for customs so they are all keen on doing the deal because they are passionate about the brand.

So, if you are even somewhat interested, you should email and ask that I pencil you in on a guitar. It is a NON BINDING offer. EG: you arent committed. But at least when the time comes, you have already expressed the first otion to buy. Someone already has their name down on the blue one, but no deposit has been placed.

Im hoping that four will go to this one store, and four privately. But, I have a Russian distributor who has said they'll take the lot! Not sure what to do...
Quote by metal-matt
hi perry, just a question about the body blanks you sell,
i know they are machined/ready to use for a strat shaped guitar, but is it posible that you could have one machined so that it could be made into a X shaped (like a BCR Stealth) guitar?
and if so, how much more could this cost.

We could do that, but only if what we have in stock suits it. You'll need to email me.
Quote by hypergeek
oh, just found a wattyl satin finish ^^' feel a bit of a fool now
How do I apply it? Spray gun 1 coat, fine sanding, spary another, finer, spray another, finer still, and another then steel wool, or do I only do 1 coat?

I do only the last coat as satin. But, you could do all of them satin if you like. Spray it just like normal.
Quote by EmilGD
What happens if the owner is stoked and you're not?

That's easy. I win. Every time.

Quote by hypergeek
hey perry. I know we overload you with questions a fair bit, and I have been reading this thread for ages, but I have a few questions.
Planning a build similar to an ESP F, only not as many 'burrs', and the bevels go all the way down to the bottom edge. I understand how to route for the 7 string and how to intonate, but I have a few problems...
1. if I intend to have the neck pocket angle equal to 0 degrees, using a tonepros tunomatic, how much will I need to recess the bridge? I think it should be about 7mm, but I don't want to screw it up

Umm, Im not sure. Best to draw up a side view plan. That will answer your questions, and probably get you thinking about a whole bunch more too!

The depth will be equal to the entire height of the bridge assembly (including the knurled parts of the posts), minus the action, the fret height, and the fretboard thickness at the centre. Then, allow 2-3mm extra to be safe. MEasure the bridge at the highest point (centre)

Quote by hypergeek

2. I am buying new tools for this one, and have chosen most of the stuff except the router - I am thinking about a hitachi, but the versatility of a dremel with the plunge router attachment seems more useful to me, especially given I want to do inlays and engravings on the top... Your thoughts? They are roughly the same cost if I get the hitachi second hand

Dremel will really only just handle the bridge rout if you go slowly, but will handle the inlays easily. Router can do much more than the bridge rout (pickups? Truss rod, etc), but not inlays.

Really, you have to have both. Maybe you know someone with a router already?

Quote by hypergeek

3. The finish: what sort of filler do you use? I intend to use tasmanian blackwood (surprisingly the locals don't have mahogany, but they have tas :P), which has a grain similar to mahogany. I think you mentioned oil, but if I can't get specialised filler is there an alternative?

Tassie Blackwood wont need filler. At least, Ive never used it.

Quote by hypergeek

I will probably do my painting in automotive paint (and can rent a spray room if need be), but there is one last thing... a satin finish. I don't know how to make a satin finish, and I can only find urethane and poly mixes. is there a extra additive to the urethane, or is it another kit entirely?

Thanks mate, you're a hero

Satin is made using gloss paints, and adding a matting agent. I find it difficult to get the right mix, so have to spray a test sample every time. The amount of matting agent versus paint changes with temperature and humidity. Of course, every brand has it's own formula too...

Satin is a fair bit more difficult than gloss. At least with gloss you can rub out a run, and buff it. Not so with satin.
Quote by Nutter_101
I think it looks fantastic, I really like the subtle orange grain.

Obviously everyone else is harder to please

In the end, only two people have to be stoked with it, me and the owner!