im gonna make the most plain guitar you can possibly make next probably... youll see... anway here is a pic with the second hb route because the last pictures looked wierd with just the neck one routed.
ehhh sorry about not getting the templates scanned yet.. i was up in canada this weekend again, didn't get any work done on this.. but hopefully ill be able to get the pickups routed the bridge drilled.. maybe some headstock veneer on? and some shaping done this week. I've just been so busy recently i've had no time to do anything really.. I have a lot planned though for this winter.. including a test of how different thicknesses of finish affect sustain, a phillies themed guitar (depending on how the world series goes lol) a bunch of sgs a bunch of strats all to sell (except the phillies guitar.).
Hmmmm interesting... i still would be a little hesitant to not put a truss in there.. just from my experience wood warps... from what i understand you get your wood from lumber yards like I do.. there is NO problem with that except for wood from lumberyards, although kiln dried, is not 100% dry and ready to be made into an instrument... it WILL warp... it doesn't matter how hard or soft the wood is. Anyway, its your choice and i respect your decision to not put the truss rod in. It's just that with how thin electric necks are the string tension bends the neck a little even if there is no warping.
How long have you had your neck throughs? give them a few changes of seasons... they will eventually need truss rod adjustments.. Even if you think you wont need the truss rod just put it in, its not a waste of money..
i know i dont need one, every neck ive built i havent even needed it, its just sitting in there putting no pressure, i figure if i dont even route out the main strength of the neck, i definitely wont need one, i can make sure that its flat and that it will always stay that way. i know what i am doing.
are you kidding me? your not putting a truss in a neck... that is a mistake.. you will definitely regret that... wood warps its a guarantee.. no matter how dry it is it will warp.
Ah sweet your around me then, I'm not sure about any pros in this area though, haven't really even looked for anyone, but custom paint jobs usually are expensive... just google it, a few sites will come up and give you an idea of what the price range will be..
I use 18 inch stewmac hot rod truss rods for my 25.5 inch scale necks.. im sure they can be used for 24.75 inch scale length guitars too. theres only one way to find out... just look at your plan and see how long the neck is...
hmmm I really don't like the laminated neck for some reason so I just scarfed up a birdseye neck today.. also instead of the gibson set neck joint I'm going with a different joint (the one that everyone uses that posts set neck builds on here.) Ill post pics when i get some real progress.
haha ook sounds good... it all depends on the price of the parts... my time is obviously free because I'm a hobbyist... my wood is extremely cheap because i buy it at lumber yards.. i have a big bandsaw and everthing needed to turn rough lumber into blanks...
soo 270 usd..
also... when i said 1/10th of the price it was kind of an exaggeration but whatever i shall try.
EDIT: looking at the B6 on that site I'm guessing closer to 350-400 for that actuallly.
haha yes sad thing is i could easily build that for 200 euros.. how thick do you think that rosewood top is exactly... its probably just a veneer or a quarter inch drop top... i bet i could build t for 350 usd..
^ yea thats very true... the guitars are pretty basic, they appear to be crafted very well though from the pictures. I definitely think that I could make any of those guitars as well for like 1/10th of the price lol.
I dont get it... Why is everyone so against poplar?? Is everyone actually saying poplar is a bad wood or are you all just saying it because the first guy said it? Poplar happens to be a pretty good wood for guitar building...