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There isn't one to my knowledge. I could make one for you but i cant promise you that itll be done anytime soon.. I only do a tutorial when I actually am doing the thing the tutorial is on, and considering i just bound a guitar yesterday I cant see it happening for a maybe 3 weeks to a month
flash


no flash


there it is carved and everything, obviously i still have work to do on the carve but i just wanted to give you some pics.
Well, I would believe you but You haven't seen a close up of the wood and don't know the background of this wood (where it comes from). Wood is shipped from a where the wood is processed and chopped down to the yard directly to my understanding. Redwood and Spanish Cedar don't grow near each other. The particular lumber yard it was purchased from does not sell redwood. The grain is opened as opposed to the closed grain of redwood. The weight is different. Ill get you some closeups. Redwood is a much different wood than spanish cedar, from the pictures Ive shown you cant really tell because i didnt take any clear shots of the grain. Although I've never worked with curly redwood I have worked with redwood and can tell you that this is 100% spanish cedar.

On top of all of that it has the signature spanish cedar smell..
You should be seeing a fully carved/bound guitar tomorrow. I just did everything tonight im just waiting for the binding glue to dry before i finish the carve etc.

this one is gettin there.
Probably not too much, spalted birch isn't under high demand really.
finished.. if you could delete your post guitarcam id appreciate it, its in the middle of my two tutorial posts haha.
I've built 7 strats counting this one that isn't done.
My real name is John.

Yeaa overhead sander is just another name for drum sander, I've heard it called both but most people probably don't know what a drum sander is so if i say overhead sander its a little bit self explanatory

The reason the vacuum press isn't used for this is that its harder to line up the centerlines when putting it in the vacuum press, and I really dont like using dowels to keep my fretboard in place.
you can do that, i just find that It provides better clamping pressure if I do it this way.
yes. it should be fine as long as its dry.


neck is coming along.. it'll be done tomorrow.
I can do it all in one post cant I?
The thing about that tutorial is to do it that way you must have a similar carving tool and a powerful enough sander with a coarse enough grit of paper on it. That is the key. if you have a smaller carving tool it'll take much longer.
Nooope, just a plain strat, haha. My 100gbp is gonna be carved.
Ehhh well, I would but i don't feel like binding this neck, it wouldn't go with the build really. I'll show how its done though.
Okay so when your ready to actually start carving your neck your gonna have to figure out the shape to do this i make a box the thickness of my neck and the width of my neck in the middle. which is around 2 inches. I then figure out the carve and then transfer that to the neck.




When this is done I take out my spokeshave and rasp, and i start taking down ths profile of the neck. to do this i first use the spoke shave to do one side of the neck, then i do the other side. after that i smooth everything out with the spoke shave so that the shape isnt boxy. then i use the rasp to smooth it out some more.



after this is done i do the heel and the headstock carve. this is simple you just shape it until it feels right with the rasp





Pretty much done with the neck here. now i just use my scraper and scrape everything smooth





After this is just sand it until everything is smooth then finish it.. there you have it the completed neck building tutorial. minus one easy step, drill the truss access hole. thats easy though, just make sure you use a pilot hole first.
I'm gonna have to agree with GFS bridges sucking. I have experience with GFS.. I know whats good and what isnt. The bridges are absolutely terrible, the tuners are alright, people exaggerate how bad they are. The pickups actually are very nice. Ive been happy with every GFS HB ive ever bought maybe 5 or 6 to date. Know where you can get good humbuckers for less than 50 bucks a piece? stewmacs golden age. They are wonderful..
your looking at the old pictures, the body is super smooth sanded with grits up to 4000. as of now its unbuffed though because i have no compound left haha.
Hey everybody,

Another one of these tutorials. I see people on these boards and in other places talk about neck building like it is some impossible thing for beginners to do. wrong. Neck building is actually quite easy and can be done with minimal tools if necessary. I have a lot of tools so ill be showing you the easy way to do it with a lot of tools. I also will make suggestions for tool substitutions along the way for some of you that may be limited to a router and rasps.

So first off I will be building a strat style neck with the truss rod access on the heel (I realize this makes adjusting harder but If you have the tools to build a neck you have the tools to take it off of the body and adjust it.) The reason i am putting the access on the heel is simply for looks, I prefer the headstock to be blank. But if you prefer the access on the headstock all you have to do is route the slot differently

The tools I will be using for this project are: Bandsaw, Planer/Overhead sander, jointer, spokeshave, rasp/files, drill press, router, various bits, double stick tape.

okay the first step in making a neck is preparing your lumber. most people prefer quratersawn lumber for necks because of its stability.

I'm just using some curly maple for the neck in this build.

For the fretboard i will be using bolivian rosewood. all species of rosewood are great for fretboards. maple, ebony, zebrawood, jatoba, etc.. basically all woods that are very hard are acceptable for fretboards.

My truss rod is a stewmac hot rod truss rod. this truss rod is easy and straightforward to install, and also gives you good results. the slot for this rod requires a .218 inch wide slot that is 7/16th of an inch deep. you MUST have atleast 1/8th of an inch of wood under your truss rod so the minimum thickness of your neck is 9/16th of an inch.

The first step I take when building a neck is getting my fretboard slotted and ready. their are many ways to do this, I happen to have the stewmac mitre box which makes the task pretty straightforward. You can obviously do this by hand but it requires very accurate measurements.

Once the fretboard is slotted and completed I get my neck wood. my neck wood is 21mm thick maple. You may be wondering why I used the metric system for that thickness, I have no idea why. When this is updated Ill put everything into inches for you.

Then you want to get your neck template (in my case a strat neck) To fit this onto the board I draw the centerline 2.25 inches from the edge of the board (which is planed flat on the edge that is perpendicular to the centerline) The edge will serve as a guide for my router when i route the truss rod.


http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture002-5.jpg


Now that You have everything completed with your wood selection and all of your parts gathered your ready to begin cutting some wood.

first thing you will need is a template of the neck your making obviously.

When you get your template made your ready to start cutting. trace your template onto your blank

through the center of the blank you wlil rout the truss rod slot. I use stewmac dual action hot rod truss rods. these require a .218 inch wide by 7/16ths deep inch slot.

First thing I do is measure out the length of my pocket from head to heel then I mark the length of the route on the centerline on the heel and on the head end.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture001-6.jpg

When this is done I set up my router with my routing fence attachement. this allows me to route parallel to the edge of my board which is parallel to the centerline. I route the slots length.




I then route down the center of my neck until the slot is 7/16th inch deep. When this is done I route the little extra bit needed for the adjustment nut.



now that thats done, i rough cut the side of the neck out that wasnt used to route the truss slot.



When thats rough cut I draw the profile of my neck. My headstock is .5 inches thick and the neck is 9/16th inches deep on the playing surface. The heel is 21mm thick. I take the difference of the 21mm and the .5 inches off of the top of the blank.

here it is drawn out.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture005-1.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture006-1.jpg

When thats done I cut that out on the bandsaw (sorry no pics)

Then I rough cut the rest of the neck and put the routing template on



I then proceed to route the neck to size with a router bit with the bearing on the top.



After that is completed I am ready to glue my truss rod in with silicon bathtub sealer. This keeps the truss from jiggling in the route and creating unwanted noise.



When this is done I scrape any excess sealer off of the top of the neck with a razor blade.

The neck is ready to be glued to the fretboard at this point. To do this I simply line up the centerline of the truss rod to the centerline of the neck. I then apply glue to the surface of the neck making sure to not allow any to come into the truss rod slot. When the glue is applyed i clamp the fretboard to the neck using a bunch of handscrew clamps and a couple quick clamps to hold it in place while i set up the handscrew clamps completely.

TIP:set up any clamps before gluing, run a dry clamp if its your first time doing this




Okay so this leaves us with only a small amount of cutting until were ready for the carve.

first things first, getting that fingerboard down to size, because right now its a square fingerboard. To do this i first rough cut the board down to the finished taper using the band saw, this is a quick 10 second step that may save you a fingerboard that gets screwed up due to tearout.

so basically i just put my fingerboard onto the bandsaw with the fingerboard on the table. i then cut the board until its about maybe 1/16th of an inch away from the neck. When this is done your ready to route it down to size.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture011.jpg

Okay now we are reday for routing the fingerboard down to size. to do this we will use a bit with the bearing on the bottom.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture012.jpg

You now will simply route along the neck until your board is flush with your neck. this is a fine way of doing it except it has one problem, overhang. The bearing has nothing to follow on the fretboard overhang.



To cut the overhang off I simply tape a freshly jonted piece of mdf to the top of the fingerboard, use my bit with the bearing on the top again and route. this is a simple way to get everything 100% straight.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture015.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r191/stelmach1117/Picture016-2.jpg

At this point the neck is becoming pretty close to done, everything is ready for carving.

The first step of the carving process begins with your headstock. Up until now you probably noticed that my headstock is rough from the bandsaw. this is easily fixed with my small hand plane (pics will come up of this I didn't take any of the actual plane.)

basically your just gonna use a small hand plane to flatten the headstock out. until you have something like this



When you have that your ready to work on your fretboard to headstock transition. Strat necks have a simple taper that starts about 1mm from your nut slot and goes all the way down to the flat portion of your headstock. to do this i use a combination of a chisel and rasp. to clean it up i use a scraper and sandpaper. I first mark 1mm from the nut slot then I score the line with my chisel. I then roughed out the taper with the chisel starting at the score line and going down to almost where the fretboard meets the body. When this is done I get my rasp out and make the transition smooth. When its rasped, its kind of rough. The roughness is easily smoothed out with sand paper or a scraper or both.

thanks

It's a very nice playing instrument... for what it is im happy with the results, just something i threw together with spare parts...

other than the tuning stability issues its pretty perfect.. what could i expect from a 10 dollar bridge though?
why waste enough flame maple for three fingerboards haha?

edit: the whole thing has very nice consistent flame throughout you just cant see it cause i sanded instead of planed it, the overhead sander is a much better tool to use when dealing with figured woods. sunday I'll have more updates, I'm gonna be gone the entire day tomorrow until late.


here it is put together..i didn't buff the body.

Im out of buffing compound i know, i should probably get some, I've just been somewhat busy
a vacuum press is just another clamping method. instead of using clamps it takes all of the air out of the bag until the pressure is high which causes the two pieces of wood to clamp together... its useful for droptops and veneers.
Yeaa it was from a kit, it works very well. www.veneersupplies.com i believe
...lacquers melt into the previous coats... you probably touched it way too early and it pealed up im guessing.. you gotta let it dry.



the maple is sanded not planed so you cant see the curl too good, but the wood really does have nice figure, the rosewood is pretty plane grained, looks nice though.
Hmmm since i have nothing else to update you guys on, my stewmac order shipped today.

I got an airbrush, a truss rod, pearl dots and black binding.

airbrush is just for touchup work, possibly for spraying small designs or bursts, who knows.
I'd rather sell guitars than the wood.
people would definitely get tired of it if it was done that often.. 2 times a year at most.
I think we should have one of these every year or two times a year, its such a cool idea.
So we have until january 31st o finish correct?
yeaa, the way i do my neck pockets basically insures a tight fit every time.. I don't use a router.. I use forstner bits and chisels, It's the best method i think for getting your neck on the straightest with the best fitting pocket. I've routed pockets before several times bu my favorite method remains the forstner bit chisel method. Routing out pickups on the other hand, that is a job for the router, it just looks sloppy with the forstner.


once i get my truss ill finish this up... for one reason or another I like to wait until my neck is completed to do any routing.
no you take wo flat rails and nail or screw or staple two flat pieces of wood to either end.. one end is higher so that it angles down.