I love dots.. i also made a bone nut for the neck.. This is my favorite of all of the necks i've built. I say that every time i build a neck haha. anyway Ill probably do some measuring work and maybe drill the tuner holes

neck finished. I'm gonna put some dots in it now.
I don't believe that.. fender probably has lumber that was cut and kiln dried for months, then baked.
haha, there is no way that the wood will be down to a low enough moisture content after being baked for 8 hours at 190 degrees... I believe it takes them months to dry the wood in a kiln.
It's gonna take quite some time to dry the wood from a tree that just fell down. you should just buy kiln dried ash. It's really not that expensive, cutting the wood from the tree is a waste of time and money.
^ well... Ill try to explain this as best as I can.. I made this neck and fretboard out of one length of wood. when i cut the neck out the board was wide enough that i had scrap on the left just big enough for a fretboard. I cut this wood out into as big of a piece as possible and just had enough wood for two fretboards. so I slotted the fretboard with my slotting jig, and then drew a centerline on the fretboard so that the slots were perpendicular to the centerline. I glued the fretboard up so that its centerline corresponds with the centerline of the neck. therefore the slots are straight. The reason that the fretboard appears crooked and uncut in these pictures is that i am yet to taper the board (I do this once the board is glued on by using a router bit with a bearing on the bottom so that it traces the neck.) to get the overhang routed properly I attach a guide to the top of the board using double stick tape and route it out. this way the entire board is tapered perfectly.
Inlaying is actually pretty simple. If you have experience with tools i don't see why you couldn't do even the most complicated designs. They just take time. I am by no means an expert at inlaying but ive done a decent amount of it so I know whats involved. You basically have to hand cut the inlays with a jewelers saw (google) outline your inlays onto the wood with an excato knife, fill in the indentation with contrasting chalk, route with your dremel and glue in the inlays. Of course theres a little more too it than that but basically thats what you do.

not the same neck i was talking about earlier, I scrapped that and cut the truss out haha. I decided that I wanted a solid rosewood neck so today i made one. Its made of bolivian rosewood (outstanding grain on this piece.) All I have to do is carve it taper the FB and sand it and its good. Im really excited to play this, I love this rosewood.

edit: The fingerboard is from the same length of wood as the neck so they match pretty well colorwise.
yes! my truss rod finally came in.. along with my nut making files, and a bunch of other stuff tuners copper tape, etc...

soo today i made the neck... all that i have to do is shape the back and some sanding and thtll be done.. pics tomorrow.. i'm really busy now.. the neck is birdseye maple with a birdseye fretboard.. abalone dot inlays and side inlays..
look at the other side of the body.. you can see the third piece kind of... the grain changes directions..
... thats a 3 piece i believe.
theres one problem with the plans.. the bass side of the bridge is supposed to be 1/8th inch farther from the nut than the treble side..
That looks a little too busy for my liking but if you could pull it off itd be awesome..

little bit of sanding... looking much better now... i really like this neck.. the scarf joint looks really good.

the neck is shaped... i still haven't used sandpaper soo its a little rough.. just a scraper.. but this is coming together nicely i really like the volute and the neck shape, its my favorite guitar so far.
haha thanks..
I'm a big phillies fan, shocked they won.. very excited haha.. i might consider phillies paint seriously..
yeaa. come to think of it it has been a while.. my last few guitars have been a firebird schecter 006 and an sg.. i love strats!
when i do a neck i rasp it basically the whole way then scrape it.. after that i start at like 150 grit then go up to 400.. then it all depends on the finish im using..
haha.... 220 grit is definitely fine sand paper... if you start there and go to 400 before finishing your fine usually..
its my strat shape not a regular strat shape
maybe ill do something crazy, who knows.. i don't know what i'm gonna do yet.. its not gonna be blue or green though..
Im not sure about the rosewood neck yet. I think i might go for a solid maple neck not sure though.. haha yeaaa the back of the guitar is hideous.. I'm not gonna waste any good looking wood on this, might as well use up some scraps..

I am considering a solid black guitar with chrome hardware, but i think id like the look of the cream or maybe white with the solid black pickguard..
I have no idea how cheap my poplar is anymore, but i think it costs maybe 10 dollars for a body blank.. 2 piece of course...

thats as much as im gonna do until i make the neck (i need to wait for my truss rod to come in..)

coming together pretty good, today i shaped all of the cutaways routed the roundover and made the pickguard template..

Maybe ill use a solid rosewood neck i have enough rosewood. Heres the body blank and the hardware.
^ exactly! Its not a big experiment or anything, I'm just gonna see if thicker finishes effect sustain, I doubt it's gonna prove anything, but it's something to do.

Right now I'm thinking a cream poly finish.. birdseye neck and fretboard.. I'm charging my camera right now so no pics yet but I'll get em up soon. I just want another strat, my first strat isn't doing so well now (cheap chinese neck and season change) and i'd rather just make another than waste my time with making a new neck for the thing. Ill eventually make a new neck and fix that up though because it was my favorite guitar (until I made the left handed schecter body which was also just a throw what I've got together build)
definitely try out poplar, its really cheap and a good wood to use for guitars.
Well, I need to make a quick guitar, later i might explain the exact reason for doing so but for now just know that it's an experiment kind of.. soo heres what its going to be

My strat shape
One HB (stewmac golden age I have lying around)
Maple neck/fretboard (Might use something else not sure yet)
Black PG (I have black pg material, why not)
Hardtail bridge (I have an extra one collecting dust)
Gotoh tuners(Dont have these laying around but I love them)
Bone nut (Just purchased a set of nut making files and 4 bone blanks)
Abalone dot inlays (Have them laying around somewhere gotta find them though)
One volume knob (All I need)
Strat output jack (I believe i have one laying around)
2 way truss
Left handed (Once I'm done experimenting on it ill use it)
Poplar body (Just scrapped enough poplar together for a two piece blank)
Painted body (No idea what color yet.)

This should be a quick build

-I've been pretty busy recently so unfortunately I've had no time to post anything with my sg build.. thats coming along alright though


edit: pics coming soon, forgot about them haha..
i don't know.. 25$ for rosewood doesn't seem that cheap haha.. i make my own boards with a mitre box i have.. the boards probably cost me like 2 dollars each..
wow! i want to do something like this eventually! i have that curly spanish cedar that looks similar, except for its curly instead of quilt.. this is just nuts man great work.. i cant wait for some pictures on a sunny day. i love your multiscale builds.. you seem to be doing a ton of the recently, why is that?
Wow perry! you are so creative! I've never seen anything except for dots as side inlays. looks great...
Quote by preston21
i'm just about to start a build of my own and i'm gonna be putting a curly maple top on a jatoba body. I wanna do a similar carve on the top and i was wondering what size thickness i should start with for the top???

I was thinking 1/2" and carving it so it was about 1/4" on the edges.

1/2" is a good thickness.
I don't know, but if its titebond thats a little risky, Your safe to take clamps off in 3 hours easily, but your not really okay to do much shaping.. putting any stress on a not fully dried joint is risky.. I usually wait till its dried overnight.
ahh okay... i was just wondering.. 3 is plenty id imagine.. i generally use a more, and bigger clamps but 3 definitely is enough for thick wood.. I didn't even think of the oscilating sander.. mine is different, i don't have that problem.. but looks good, i like the wood;;
just wondering, why didn't you glue up the blank before cutting out the shape? and even if the shape was cut out why didn't you use the off cuts as a caul so you could use more clamps. looks great by the way, I'm just wondering, it seems like gluing up a square piece of wood makes more sense.
Yeaaaa definitely true tummy cuts and neck carving are very easy, but sometimes its good for beginners to see a couple ways of doing it. I do my SG bevels with rasps and files.. You could easily do them with a spoke shave as well but i have some nice rasps that make the job easy.
Hmmm I'm thinking of doing a neck carving tutorial as well, anyone interested? also i can do tutorials for sg bevels, tummy cuts etc...

let me know if your interested, ill post tutorials on all things having to do with carving (im constantly building so next time i do any carves i can easily snap some pictures for you and explain my methods.)
yeaa no way im staining the top.. maybe the back but i like the natural color..
Hmmm I don't think I'm gonna do any staining... maybe though.. do you have any suggestions??