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I've heard good things about the brand Kahler for ease of installation and use, but haven't actually played one, so don't fully go by that without trying one. Also, the cost of effort of installing a tremelo on that guitar...it may be better to get another guitar with one already installed.
Did you check the type of power supply? As I'm now sure that's the issue. You don't want to have to always change batteries. Is the the power supply's negative on the pin, like it should be?
Who is the new power supply by? Is it a proper guitar pedal power supply? Real important: Does it have the negative on the middle pin, like boss power supplies do? Have you tried the pedal with a battery to see what it does?
^I've had to use Matlab too, though our teacher was majorly unhelpful. Highly confusing class. You can type in "help" and it will bring up a list of contents, or type "help *functionname*" to get help on that particular function.

Ah yes, I had a question, though I believe it is rather stupid, I'm more after confirmation of what I think: I scored myself a free TV Tuner card from an electronics giveaway at Uni (throwing out all the old computers and such). After doing some research on it, found out it's a discontinued Life View card, which only works for analog signals. Apparently analog TV is getting switched off here in a year or so, so is this card going to end up being completely useless and worthless apart from spare parts, or can I somehow keep using it (as I suspect I won't be able to, but still no harm in checking)
Could be a cap. I can't help much more than that though Hope fixing it isn't too much of a hassle.
You said you got it cheap, so I'm guessing it's old and second hand? Sounds like some part of the internal circuitry is playing up, and if you can't take it back to the place where you got it for a trade or something (or don't want to, completely understandable) then you'll have to take it to a repairshop and see if they can fix it. It may just be one transistor that's broken. You still get guitar sound through it though?
^Get the hell out if you're not going to help.

Alrighty, some amps do tend to hiss more than others. Is it a real loud, noticeable hiss? You said it does it even with all knobs on 0, is that including the amp volume knob? Do you know somewhere that would have the same amp that you can try out to see if they all do it?
After getting into Alice in Chains, I was left wondering how I lived life without hearing those songs...

While on the topic of Facelift, Bleed the Freak is definately a favourite. Love the video of it live, in black and white.
Look on the websites for DiMarzio, Rockfield and Seymour Duncan, for starters, to get an idea of what you're after tonewise. Also doesn't hurt to talk to some guitar shop employees, and try out similar guitars with the same pickups you've been looking at on the net
KenG, I see where you are coming from, but remember, what is an instrument that cannot make sound? My point is that the amp effects the sound the most, but I am in way disregarding the qualities of a great guitar. They're both equal in my books. I don't want to get into an argument though. Also, kudos for being an electronics technician, as I'm doing an electronics course, and it's pretty useful to get input from technicians on this website in times of trouble. We need more mature, knowledgable members here
Yep, ground is 0V - the negative of the battery, or the DC jack. Also, there's some fairly simple effects pedals, like the fuzz face, some intermediate, like Wah pedals, and then there's some crazy ones with heaps of parts. In regards to doing a PC Board from scratch, I did one of those for a wah pedal. I drew the schematic myself with a program called ExpressPCB, based on another schematic. You can also get premade schematics. You'll also have to get a PCB making kit, which should be at your local electronics type store Do a lot of research into it first, I'd say, and watch this.

PCB is probably hardest part, so the less components on your design, the easier overall. But don't let that stop you from being ambitious Good luck.
Is there a reason you want to spend more on a guitar than an amp? Remember, they're both halves of the one instrument.
If the knob itself is worn in such a way as it won't stay on, don't glue it, as you may very well need to take it off again some day. You can buy a new one for a few dollars from a good guitar shop in that case.
We could suggest many things, but we need you to help us a bit. Are you talking about aesthetic modifications, or sound? Anything in particular you are leaning towards? I'm guessing you're after sound as you state genres. New pickups are always an option. Could also do a coil split to get more tones. That's the more expensive type of upgrades though. There's many different ways to wire pickups (for example, the "Jimmy Page mods).
Most people, including me, would say to get a new amp, as a good amp can make a bad guitar sound a lot better, but a good guitar may sound pretty crap through a bad amp. I'm not saying your gear is bad, but I'm going by you stating your gear as "low-end". That's just my opinion though.
^ It can definately do the classic rock, Hendrix, Zeppelin stuff. Steve Vai, may need a pedal to get more like his tone. Try it out though.

The NT cab has a Celestion Greenback speaker in it, and I wouldn't call it cold or brittle, but still, personal taste.
For that much you could get a very good guitar from nearly any brand I'd say. What type of guitar are you playing now, and are you comfortable with that style? There's a lot of questions you have to ask yourself, and maybe try out some many different guitars. Jack White and Satch have very different styles, but that doesn't mean you need a specific type of guitar.
I'd say it would translate well, more so with the "easier" harmonics, as in the half string ones. I have tried it like how he's done, but not with that amount of accuracy.
You can always try out the cab they made for it, the V112NT. It has a Celestion Greenback speaker, and is also 1x12. Sounds great, and is designed to go with it. That said, nothing wrong with other cabs, but still, give it a go.
Well, here's a pic of the bridge situation. The strings are all fine except for both E strings. I know I haven't moved the high E's saddle back all the way yet, but as of now have noticed no difference. Is it normal to have to move saddles this much with thicker strings? And the low E is still out, the tuner is telling me to shorten it more while the high E needs to be lengthened - which is still possible, but I've never seen saddles moved about this much. Is this all due to the strings being thick, or something else?

Thanks


Dirt - Alice in Chains
Ride the Lightning - Metallica
Still Got the Blues - Gary Moore
The Wall - Pink Floyd
The Song Remains the Same - Led Zeppelin
Could be fully possible he lost it, or maybe the threads of the screw holes got worn out and he couldn't put it back on...
The Metal Muff has an entirely different tone to the Big Muffs. It's a harsher distortion sound, as compared to the fuzz of the Big Muff. Tone Wicker disconnects the tone controls (I think) giving it a crazy high gain distortion. Another one is the Russian Big Muff, which can sound bassier to the USA version, but is cheaper.
Sorry to interrupt guys, as it sounds like greenwgreg has a more serious and expensive problem than me. But I just put 11s on my guitar, and have found that the low E string's intonation is out, and having moved the saddle from as far back as possible (where it was before), to two thirds forward, there has been no change in the intonation. I adjusted the truss rod a month or so ago, and didn't know if I'd have to adjust it again - going by sight it seems fine, but always hard to tell - and the action is perfectly fine (no fret buzz on a positive note). I did the pressing the strings at the first and last fret thing, and they looked fine. I also tried adjusting the high E string, and while I haven't moved the saddle much, it didn't seem to make a great difference.

Could my neck just be bowed slightly from the extra pressure, which is causing issues? I'd like to keep using 11s, as I love the new tone I'm getting.

EDIT: Correction, there is a bit of fret buzz on the thicker strings on the lower frets. More of a rattle sound I'd say though.
So... you'd prefer songs only had say the last line of the song, and that was that, as the rest of it is pointless?
Pac_man, when you say the volume knob acts more like a tone knob, does it still turn the volume completely down, or not? As it's normal for volume knobs to cut out some higher frequencies when turned down.
I started taking my watch off, as I could hear it ticking through the pickups (well, I use to have non ticking watches, then I got this one) and then it just felt so much more confortable without it too. I also suspected it might of been scratching the finish occasionally.
Quote by jpnyc
What you’re describing is pretty much the entire point of serviceable cables. Try unscrewing the end and just re-soldering everything.


I've never had an issue with the ends, it seems to be the cable itself that breaks. Also, a 1 metre cable I have stopped working, and for some reason it's made so you can't even get to the ends.
Quote by Alex Vik
I've had a Peavey cable around for about 10 or 11 years, and it's only showing a little wear on it.


That's interesting. I haven't been using top quality cables, but they're also not absolutely crap. 10 years would be excellent!
Couldn't really find anything about this, though sure it's out there somewhere.

I acknowledge people have different quality cables and treat them differently, but in peoples opinions/experiences, what is the normal amount of time before a cable starts to crackle badly then die? One of mine has started to crackle, I've had it for maybe over 3 years now, and will be replacing it soon.
Also the Metal Muff's Top Boost is an interesting feature, though I used it more to get different tones than to solo.

But yeah, it can be quite brutal, and is in fact too brutal for me personally now days, but served me well when I was using it.
I'm only using one out of the 4 op-amps, and will only use another for this section. Non-inverting I think. Thanks for the link, it's very helpful!
^ Thanks for confirming it was just cutting. Does anyone know some good values to use for the circuit, it would be a big saver for me. Unless I can find a similar circuit on the net...
Hey guys, I want to add a high frequency boost to my MXR Microamp build. So far, I've found a so called passive boost, though I was under the impression that without power, you can only cut, not boost (so it may just be a bass cut). Anyhow, the author didn't give any specific values, and I haven't been able to get an audible result testing the circuit with a few values I did use. Figured it would be best to get a better opinion than floundering about for ages.

Also, I'm using a 4-in-one-IC type op-amp, so if anyone knows a simple circuit for a good mid/treble boost requiring an op-amp that they'd recomend, that would also be a great option.

Cheers guys.
^ The FM series is actually seperate to the FrontMan series. I think Fender called it FM just so people think they're related. The amp's actual distortion is muddy at high gain, but could work for some new metal... all depends on tastes.
I have the same amp as you, and I actually have a Metal Muff too. It's tone is closer to stuff of say Metallica and the like, than to say System of a Down I think, but it all depends on what sound you want. If you're playing stuff like KoRn, they seem to have effects in lots of songs, so do some research into what sounds it is you like, and what effect to use to get there. Daron Malakian apparently uses a Metal Zone, according to wiki, but he also has big amps and such.
Only way I know of, and can recomend, is to use the tool. The one I have is on the end of a string winder, they're cheap plastic things, but it's the right size for the pins. The pins can also be in quite tight so be careful with the angle you're pulling them out, I've snapped a couple myself, and had a tough time getting half a pin out of the guitar.
Hmm well every guitarist seems to always be searching for their perfect tone... EQing, the only general advice I can give is to do it smoothly, as in make the sliders look like a wave, instead of having seemingly random frequencies cut and boosted (though that can still work for some unique tones if you get it right I guess). I'm talking about the 10 band EQ, with a 3 band, well not really much you can get wrong, unless you completely cut out a frequency.

Back to the main issue. Jam along with NIN and songs from other bands, to get a feel for the types of guitar riffs and timings, and it should inspire you with your own music!
Is his style metal? Well firstly, jam along with some NIN songs, to get a feel for them... "1,000,000" has a good guitar line. I have a Metal Muff, and that can get you some harsh industrial tones, so tonewise you're set. Flanger may not be useless, as industrial is fairly experimental. It sounds like here that your two friends are playing different styles to you, so if you're trying to industrial up whatever they're playing, it may not work. But in your own mind, as you said... Hmm. You could get an industrial tone, but make up your own style with what comes to you? Maybe get some drum tracks and jam to them too, as lots of NIN songs seem to have a set drum track.
With the pick with sharp point thing, maybe you're using too much of the pick on the string? And the sharp pointed ones give way easier than the normal ones? Watch your right hand and see if you're using the tip of the pick, or maybe a bit more. Also, what thickness of picks?