I'm assuming you installed the drivers on the computer, otherwise it won't work on it. That's irrelevant though if it doesn't work at all. Does a factory reset work? If you don't have a manual, there's one on the website explaining how to do it. I use to have an RP150, so I know these can be fiddly, but never heard of the problem you're having.
Take it back to the shop if it's absolutely screwed and can't be fixed.
You should be able to reuse etchents as far as I'm aware, I'd just keep re-using it until it doesn't work anymore! And yeah, I'm not too sure what you're meant to do with acidic solutions as you can't just chuck them out.
First time I played guitar on stage at an open mic night, there was no one in the room and I was still shit scared and stuffing up. But after each song I'd relax a bit, get into a bit more, start to do some lead fills, and then I'd see people I know walk in and want to play more!
It's taken a few open mic nights to relax and play better on stage, right now I still don't go too well on the first song, but I'm ok with it.
I also think it's quite the humbling experience to be on stage and messing up, in a good way, as none of us are perfect and we always laugh it off when we stuff up!
That's my little story, with the point being: get out there and play in front of people, even if you are scared, you'll soon be having great fun!
Hmm... what's the condition of the strings like? Are they old or dirty? That can really throw intonation out. Another thing that can put it off is having the pickups too close to the strings, is the magnetic field can drag on it and change the pitch slightly.
I don't think it'd be the 0 degree headstock, angled headstocks are more about stability and keeping the string in the nut, but 0 degrees still works fine.
Is the neck at the right angle in the body cavity? It could be possible it's not quite right.
Rokeman, I believe those are film caps, if you're going to replace caps, replace any ceramics in the signal path, those used for decoupling are probably fine.
Ah cheers, thanks. I'll leave the caps untouched then.
ub3r_bassist666, I've worked with Jaycar kits before, they're not the best of quality and a bit pricey sometimes. I'd suggest finding a schematic for a similar sort of thing off the net and maybe buying the parts yourself, or maybe finding another kit. Or I'm sure there's actual toys that do that you could modify? But if you want to do the Jaycar kit, don't let me stop you! You'd have to connect the input jack to where the mic currently is, but that's easily done, and I reckon it could work!
Was getting a new card sent to me by the bank, and for some reason the postie dropped it off at an empty property up the road. Fortunately, someone saw that happen, checked the post, and them walked down to my house with it. Still, what the hell?
Also, am I the only person the finds it amusing and weird that frnzd's Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy ended up in a random place? Considering what happens in the story and all with appearing in random places...
The problem of the static sound is something I've had before with amps, so it could be that. Crackling sound from tone knob means that the pot is dirty or worn out, and when you use the coil tap that makes it like a single coil, so that would pick up a bit more hum if the guitar isn't shielded well.
Hey guys, I've had a Boss Super Overdrive few a couple of weeks now, it's working great for me, but I've recently discovered it's similarities to the Tube Screamer and the different mods that can be performed on it! I'm thinking of one day putting in a switch to remove one diode from the clipping section for some symmetrical clipping, and I can switch back when I want asymmetrical.
But that's not what I'm here about right now, my question to you all is: What type of capacitors are those weird silvery things, and what is their quality like? I'm considering upgrading many components to better quality ones, but I've never seen or worked with these caps before so don't know if it'd be worthwhile.
Hmm... Standard E A D G B E tuning I assume? Did you stretch the strings after tuning? They stretch a fair bit after you put them on, which lowers the note, so keep stretching and re-tuning until they don't go down in pitch after bending.
I'm a total breadboarding noob and was thinking of getting a breadboard + like $30 worth of components from Smallbear and just mess around, trying to come up with a simple distortion or something but don't know how I would test it out in the process.
I use to just solder on wires, but recently I get a short strip of the dual in line jumpers and soldered the legs of the jack straight to it. Of course, depending on the jack, you may not be able to solder all three legs to it. So now I can plug the jacks straight into the circuit, and all the extra pins on the strips keep them stable!
That's these things (I solder to the short side, and plug the long side into the breadboard):
The website said that many people will feel nauseous or dizzy after looking at it for too long, should causing interesting results for people up close and watching you! Some other pretty cool trippy stuff on that website too!
Hey all, I'm 20 years old, based in Healesville (in the Yarra Valley, Victoria), and am seeking a funky bassist and soulful vocalist (male or female) to form a band, write songs, and do gigs with.
I'm influenced by and play many, many things; I want to create a sound that mixes aspects of blues, folk, roots, rock, jazz, whatever it is that comes to us that we want to do. I have on stage experience at open mic nights and am involved in a couple of different local music jam programs. I would like people around the same age up to say 30ish that are dedicated and love music.
Yep, I want it to be permanently lit, not for the light to be generated while I'm actually playing.
That's no fun!
Well in that case, I'd say it wouldn't be too hard at all, your plan seems pretty good and you sound like you know about electronics. Put a switch in if you can, unless you know you'll always want the lights on. Good luck, remember to put up photos when it's done!
The RP255 is the god of all pedals and shall take no blame for boring tone.
How can it be the god of all pedals if you said you have a crap tone?
Myself and two of my friends have had nothing about trouble from the RP series. They DO have lots of features, and were good to muck about with and experiment with, but we found they made any amp sound just like the RP, even with none of the effects active.
Try changing up the EQ on your amp. Also play about with having just a tiny bit of gain for a warm sound on the cleans. Just keep messing with it.
That said, I believe there's a rule of thumb about spending more on your amp than your guitar. A quality amp can make a bad guitar sound better, but a bad amp will definitely bring any guitar's tone down a bit. You'd want to do your Gibson justice!
Can't you just buy aluminum tape at a local hardware store instead of ordering online?
Yep, I got some at my local electronics store (Jaycar).
I'm also thinking it might be microphonic pickups, as badly shielded wires would just mean you'd get lots of hum and excess noise, not feedback. If you can determine that the pickups are microphonic, you can "pot" them with wax to fix them.
jlangholzj, that's a cool idea you have there in your circuit. There's probably a few ways to do this, but I don't know what the best way or most "official" way is. Depends on what Mootallica wants....
Found it! The bass amp that actually has this built into it already: The Fender Rumble!
I'm having trouble trying to find a schematic for this particular model though.
A 555 circuit uses a 555 timer chip to make an output turn on and off at times determined by the circuit. You can use a potentiometer to speed up or slow down the rate.
But what you'd want is for the lights to turn on when there is sound being made, and to vary brightness with signal strength from the bass? It is possible to do that, I have seen a bass amp in action do that.
If it was already cheap, then that may be the reason of the hum, as there is different quality cable out there. That said, if your soldering caused dry joints, that may cause issues. Dry joints are where the solder looks dull and maybe rough, as opposed to looking smooth and silver.
Yep, you can check it with a pot. Measure from one outside lug, and the wiper. When the pot is turned all the way to one side, the wiper and lug are shorting, should give you a value of 0 or very near to it, and when turned all the way the other way, will give you a value of the pot's maximum value. You can watch the resistance change on your multimeter even! Connecting to both the outside lugs will always give the max value of the pot