I'm not sure if it'd work out, as it sounds like he'd be a lot happier around people with the same sort of beliefs. I'm not saying that you're not all respecting each other, just that in the long term tensions can build.
But definitely talk to him about the drinking and the drugs. Though if he's in your band and you want to do that when he's not around, that might be hard to organise, as he'd be around a lot of the time, otherwise you'd end up having to exclude him.
What amp are you using? Also, do you mean like a boss pedal, where to turn it on it has the big rocker switch instead of just a small metal one? It's hard to recommend you something, as there's many pedals for what you want to do. For starters maybe look into the Boss DS-1.
Hey hey, the situation magically resolved itself! I opened it up, all the fuses were fine :/ Went "wtf". Removed a bit of glue that had a bit of solder hanging off (when amp is upright, the solder would be against the bottom, not the pcb, shouldn't of been an issue). Put it back together, plugged it, it works!
I took a photo on my phone, not sure about quality, but it's all back together now. I'm going to do some more research into this sort of thing happening, my friend reckons the same sort of thing happened to him and his Fender.
And thanks for taking an interest and sticking with this guys, it's very appreciated
The Night Train should have three fuses in its circuitry. The Tubes are still lighting up so the mains fuse and the heaters fuse obviously did not blow.
There is also a 160mA fuse on the HT center tap of your amp. Chances are this is inside the amp chassis and would require you to open the amp up in order to find the fuse.
So you're fairly certain this fuse is the issue then? Would this just be a standard sized fuse for 160mA, or do I have to get a special one for high voltage or something?
EDIT: Wait on, I found a schematic and a picture of the circuit board, it's a 160mA 250V fuse. I hope it is that, as we suspect, as I can easily fix it (I'm studying electronics, and am well aware of the dangers of being shocked from capacitive charges). The Vox thread hasn't given me an answer yet, but if I open the amp and it isn't the fuse, time to take the issue to higher up people.
But thankyou to both of you, you've both been very helpful!
Hey guys, the sound from my Night Train cut out while playing, and I've tested to see if it was the guitar or cables or speaker, and it's none of them. All the tubes still light up, and I was advised that it could be the high tension fuse, assuming it has one. Can anyone shed any more light on this? Thanks!
I was playing through my Vox Night Train, when suddenly it makes a couple of "pop" sounds similar to that of a cable being plugged in, and the sound dies! I immediately turned it all off, but then turned it back on again to test with a different guitar and cable. Still didn't work. Used multimeter on speaker cable and speaker, and they're all good it seems.
Basically, I'm now getting no sound from the amp, but it powers up, and all the tubes light up too, and I'm not sure if a broken tube is meant to not light up. I'm really hoping it's not something in the internal circuitry, but it seems strange that it all turns on fine.
If no one here knows if it could just be a valve issue, then I'm going to try the Vox forum, and if that doesn't help then I know some technicians. But you first, UG!
I normally leave mine just lying on my bed after taking it out of its case for when I feel like picking it up quickly throughout the day, but when I know I'm not going to play it for a bit, and also overnight as well, I put it back in its case.
Who's your opponent? I disqualify people who havent posted here at all and vanished.
Blackholesun. I posted on pages 17 and 18 explaining the situation. I've PMed him to say we need to play a game somehow, and also to go into this thread as people were being disqualified. He posted a while back in this thread, but nothing since then. I really have no idea what's happened to him.
Uh hey, looking at the brackets, my opponent won by default. Just wondering what the reasoning for this is, did he contact you? I messaged him like you asked and all, no reply, chess game is going nowhere. I'm not going to have a massive bitch about this, as this is so much hassle I'd be fine with being booted for a legitimate reason. Also, thanks for getting me onto the chess site, I like it!
I'm left handed and play right handed. Just do what feels natural to you, and don't worry about being at a disadvantage or anything, because you're not. You can train your hands to play in whatever with enough practice, like how in the old days people who were born left handed were forced to write right handed.
But don't force yourself to play a particular way, just play how it feels natural.
For Australia, I'd say that that is actually pretty good for that sort of guitar. Yes, I know we get ripped off majorly down here with guitar prices, you just have to search about heaps for the good prices. Most the Epi LP Customs I've seen have been $1500, so I'd say you've got a good deal from that place, but if you go Billy Hyde, which a lot of the time are a bit more expensive, get them to match the price.
I moved a pawn forward two days ago, and am waiting for a response move. He challenged me to the game originally though. If you read back in this thread a bit you can see us trying to organise times and such. Maybe he's busy right now or something.
I made the first move in correspondence chess, and Blackholesun hasn't moved a piece in the two days since then. He doesn't seem to be following this thread at the moment either. With the time difference, even if he does start moving pieces, I doubt we're going to finish a game quickly if we only end up making one move a day
These are all very good ideas for categorising the collection, but what about ideas on how to minimalise effort taken to keep it categorised? Apart from leaving lots of open spaces, which is a good idea, but to me will make it seem like CDs are missing.
I ask this of you, as I am now faced with this dilemma! I now have 60 or so physical CDs, and have been keeping them in alphabetical order. However, with so many CDs, this means whenever I get a new one I have to laboriously move quite a lot of CDs one space over to make room and keep them in order. So pretty much, with each new CD, the problem gets worse. I've also just run out of room in one CD rack, meaning the overflow will have to go onto another rack, which is fine, but means more shifting.
Does anyone out there, in their infinite wisdom, have a solution to this great issue, or do you just put up with moving lots of CDs about to keep order? Or do you not care about order, and just chuck them wherever, which is easy in the short term, but confusing in the long term?
No idea, monkeylink. Haven't built that. Try signing up at DIYstompboxes, and asking them.
Rokeman, sounds like a combination of the lack of shielding and the circuit gating due to improper biasing. Do you have a multimeter? Measure the voltage on Q2's collector. The "magic number" is 4.5V.
From memory, the voltage was a bit under 4.5V, but there was no sound issue then either, and I liked that tone. Maybe I'll hook up a variable resistor again, see what voltages cause what to happen. As for shielding, it's all in the case now, so that should be ok.
Once I finally get my "perfect sound" out of this I'm quite tempted to redo the whole thing on stripboard or PCB, as I keep changing things the vero is getting quite messy.
^ If I could play you now, and Blackholesun played Ikey, would that solve things? I'm not speaking on behalf of my opponent though, I'm just saying that I'm pressed for time, and would still like to take part :/
Some string manufacturers have scales from "warm" to "bright" for their string tones. Or "bright" to "mellow" in this case. So you can use that as a reference to try and find the right ones for your desired tone!