Content
Thread
Forum
Date
Quote by Schism1985
I just realized that you did nothing to protect the wood. you left the grain open so it's going to look like **** in a few months if you don't fill the pores or pain it or something.


Quote by TimBFMV
It has been waxed, you just can't see it very well.


hmm
its a good concept but i think you could make it better
mayber paint the whole thing
i dunno, nice try though
For question no 2 i normally just sand with one grit till all the scratches in the body look uniform and then move on to the lower
or u could rock it old school
and buy a PLANE

takes some skill but definitely a skill worth having
Quote by Absent Mind
^ Import tax is only VAT @ 15% I think

its the exchange rate thats the only problem atm, considering the premium you pay for stuff in the UK, when the dollars right importing from the US is very benificial.


shows waht i know
anyway i might shoot u a pm later afterall
Quote by LP Addict
cool, make sure you get your parts from me for 35% off =]

next time you build a body shape such as this, bring that dip in the lower horn closer to the body, i think thats how the real deans are, but i may be mistaken.


sorry bub i live in england and import tax would eat that 35% up like candy

yeah that would work, i might also try using a extended tenon (not sure if thats the name) just like on an SG
it looks really good, but goodbye upper-fret access =[

sadly very true and something i would definitely adress where i to redo this build (or build another)
however i can assure you my next build (dropping very soon) should satisfy all my high end needs...
indeed it will...
cheers for all the compliments guys
im just burning a CD now to go listen to whilst i begin assembelling so ill probably have some completed or damn near that pics up tonight
cheers again
im not sure if its sapwood but i like where it gets lighter on the edges of the body and i think it would look wicked iwth a clear finish
what i dont really get about people not building a neck on their first build is why they imagine they will magically be able to do it after their first guitar body. There arent really a lot of things that u do to build a body that transfer over to neck building so as long as u plan the crap out of it and measure everything twice u may as well build a neck first tiem round
that looks badass man
are you gonna carve it?
i had to show someone what i jsut scored and i figure the tonewood thread would be good


my woodshop teacher had all this sitting around and hadnt been used since two teaches before him and he was like just take it. I THINK IM IN LOVE
srs thats all mahogany and the two long billets are just under 2" thick.


i chucked my guitar case in the second to give some scale

i cant wait to make some sawdust with this bunch
tbh on a strat ur pretty safe in that youve got that nice large pickup to cover any problems
just take ur time and mark everything out beforehand very accurately
comon guys cut him some slack.
project sounds good im planning on doing a guitar for my A2
seems a bit early/ massively late to be doing planning for it though? have u finished ur AS yet?
sounds like a beaut
ive allways loved the f series shape, especially when done neck through style with contrasting lams. Something like maple in the neck would also help to brighten up the tone a bit comapred to the all mahogany construction.
good luck
I suppose by QLD you mean, quilted maple?

I always assumed they meant queensland maple when they say QLD. could u clear this up for us?
how do you plan on getting the binding off?
and i love the chipping off idea. brilliant
does anyone know anything about meranti?
all i know so far is that its a bit like mahogany. I havent heard from anyone whos used it in an electric
thanks
I've yet you use a stain that'll actually penetrate worth a flip, but I guess it could work.


i may have just go lucky with my choice of stain but i put a rosewood stain on my last board to deepen the colour a bit and it worked fine. Admitedly i havent played it yet so i dont know iff it will like rub off when i use it
So what happened with this build?


PM's man, PM's
$400 gets you a long way towards a top of the line dremel and as many practice bits as you will ever need. I think yuo could probably get the vine already pre cut so you would just have to rout and fit
sorry tahts the only helpful input i can add

oh and i found this
http://cgi.ebay.com/tree-of-life-rosewood-fretboard-inlays-luthier-project_W0QQitemZ160315606525QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item160315606525&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
it has sound modulation installed on board
let me just grab guitarist (they ran a section on it this month)
"the default setting is a chameleion tone knows as classic gibson but the MCK (like master knob thing) cna call up seven other presets which use different coil combinations and eq variations"
hope that helps
sorry to break up this deutchfest
i had to tell someone
After like three years of overpaying for this "tonewood" bull
i fianlly decided to check a local lumber yard and picked up wood for my next two builds for half the price id normally pay for one
FEELS GOOD
dont put a killswitch on it. put a mercury switch so that it'll kill the signal depending on how you tilt it. a google search for adrian legg might bring up his wiring techniques and how to put a mercury switch into a guitar.

i actually have a bunch of those sitting around but i never thought about using them in a guitar
might be quite unpredictable to use though (fun)
looks very nice is it your first?
have you got any progress pics? UG loves the progress pics
damn
the sonic possibilities are going to be immense
cant wait to see what you put in all those pot holes
it was ages since i read the thread first time
could u give us a quick recap on what the wiring is going to be like?
thanks

Why'd you cheap out on all the parts?

you cant really blame him for cheaping out on the parts for his first build
i mean i know ive seen some damn good first builds but the majoirty (including mine)
werent worth investing large amounts on good hardware
now im not saying that this build wont turn out great just that sometimes its better to err on the side of caution
i put on my last coat of oil a week ago and i was wondering if anyone knew how long it is recommended to leave oil before you buff it?
and thanks for all the compliments guys


mmm...
never liked the headstock tho

What are you basing that statement on?

well i mean just the fact that its not done on more guitars shows that tehre are probably some unwanted side effects. Maybe not sound like crap but definitely different
cut basic shape, cut closer with a smaller saw, and sand body.

and don't put your thumb behind the material. i know someone that did. cut down the center of his thumb and through the nail and bone. it was gnarly.


^i dont think he read ur post at all did he?
3 inches should be fine
only thing i could think of is if ur were cutting across a neck blank to bring it more to shape before carving that might get above three inches
i would say dots might just be able to be done without taking out the frets but it would require quite a bit of skill to level them using just a scraper or something i guess
Teasers...



Finally started getting a finish on this build and damn it feels good i can tell ya
the photos are after 4 thin coats of tru oil applied with a rag. I applied them in groups of two with a day between. I will probably put another two coats and then leave it for a couple of weeks to cure. Im really happy with how it looks so far though its darkening nicely

btw i havent drilled the bridge and tuner holes yet as i didnt have the correct drill size and i didnt want to postpone putting on the finish any longer. I imagine i will have no problem drilling these holes once the oil has dried
comments/criticism allways welcome
you say youve done all ur jigs now so i guess this is for a next build nut have u ever seen this method before
http://www.mcguitars.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=231
for the radiused jigs
looks pretty easy compared to routing all that mdf
looking at 97'' long piece, 6'' wide, 1'' thick right now for about 30 bucks.

argh
i just got a quote for some walnut (metre lengths, inch thick) and it was 170$
gotta love the uk...
yeah ur right now that i think about it ill have to replace those two side bits
didnt even think about that cheers.
about the plywood i think it might be a trick of the photography cause its one sturdy mother
ill check again though
thanks
So i had some spare time in the school workshop yesterday so i started building my own router thicknessing jig that i have allways wanted to
for those of you who might not have come across one before they basically allow you to use a router as a thicknesser planer (the pics should make it clear)











So basically it is two walls that are attached to an mdf board. The fourth photo shows the board that the router sits in and can slide along. This whole section can also slide along the two walls clipped in by the two strips of wood seen on the bottom in the fifth photo.

It took me about 2 and a half hours to build and would of cost about £20 in materials had i not use scraps taht were floating around.


if anyone is interested in making there own (and i would definitely recommned it) i would start here http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=18939
and follow those links and also take a look at
http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_15.html


final photo is some wicked spalt i found in some beech at school taht i really want to find a home for. Any inlay ideas?
^ all brilliant awnsers

books, as well
Melvyn Hiscocks (im assuming ur making an electric) is a well respected one that i personally own and would recommend.
read it and any other books u can get ur hands on
if you are repainting you dont need to take off all the paint
scuff sand with 400 grit just to give the next coat to something to grip to and then just spray on ur new finish
well its 26 and a half
isnt that like massively long
i mean its and an inch and a half off what i was going for
from what i understand in terms of tension and scale length the longer it is the tauter the strings so this thing is going to be unplayable