when i was right in front of Bill at a Mastodon show a couple months ago, IIRC he was running two JCM 800's. Now Mastodon isnt exactly super tight focused metal. But mastodon is metal non the less. I would look around. With the right pedals it should do fine.
329 dollars vs 800 dollars

I get the feeling the looks are pushing you one way or another rather than construction quality/hardware.

On that note, get whichever one you think is the prettiest.

Id buy the second based on build quality.
most mesa recto / mark users will recommend an xotic effects pedal for od. A majority of them recommending the BB preamp. gonna be hard to find one for 100 bucks though. Prolly swing one used for around 130-140.

edit: ^ what he said.
Quote by Hidden Hippo
I use yellow tortex. I'd quite like to try the green ones (0.83 I think). I find on a 52 string the yellows are a touch soft.

Ya, i think the green is a .88. We started out using those but they really dont have any give at all. great for fast alternate picking but didnt have hardly any give on strumming 2 strings or more.
ive gone through a similar progression with my pics...

currently im using .73mm dunlop tortex sharps. (yellow ones)

firm enough for good note definition, soft enough to give a little while strumming. The only drawback I have found is that if you have an aggressive pick attack you are going to chew through these picks quickly.
TC Electronics Nova or Repeater....Prolly biggest bang / flexibility for the buck. Although I'm sure others will disagree...
i use GHS Boomer TNT's. I started using them when I was still playing in E Std. Now im using them for Drop C. Keep in mind this is on a 24.75" scale. the set is a thin/thick package, 10-52.
Id recommend dropping in on the grailtone forums and reading up on the III. The three is known for having good chimey cleans and a very aggressive distorted tone. One common thing I read about the III is the tradeoff between the channels tonewise depending on how you want to dial your amp in. Keep in mind the III was an early comer in the 3 channel amp world, so its not a perfectly designed amp by any means. Should be a great amp though. I dont think you will have a hard time dialing it in, not as many knobs as a IV or V
how much is he looking for it if you dont mind me asking? Keep in mind that its a Modded III and NOT a IIC+. the III's sell for less than a IV or a IIC or IIC+...
It will sound great. the Mk III is underrated in my opinion.
Cool, i thought it would be the same as I'm pretty sure you are referring to your epi. Dont be intimidated by intonation, its really easy. It may be obvious but I will say it anyways, make sure you intonate your guitar to the desired tuning.
a small phillips screwdriver will do the trick. I just intonated my mockingbird and it has a tune-o-matic bridge, if its too hard to turn the screw with the string at the desired tuning, loosen the string via the tuning peg and turn the screw, then tune up, double check the harmonic, repeat..etc.
what kind of tuner do you have? If its at least +/-1 cent you should be able to do it yourself. I'm sure there's tutorials all over this site so use the search bar. Good luck.
Yes the Mark series are "tweaker" amps but its not like they're impossible or take forever to find "your" tone. Spending a half an hour reading the owners manual twice before you get going can cut your learning curve down exponentially. Now i cant speak for the V but I do have a IV and its a similar beast. I've had it for about a half a year now and find new tones weekly. The V will defenitly be one of the most versitile amps in your price range. Maybe looke into Axe FX?

As for practice volume, i run my IV at FULL volume (full power, simul, pentode) for bedroom practice, and its retarded brutal. Dont be fooled by the functionality of the different wattages available.
1X12 Thiele Cab with an EVM. Look into it. Its the preferred cab of most mesa players.
F8 - Boot from last known good configuration. Run spybot. gg.
Quote by Green_Jelly
New Millenium Cyanide Christ. Do it.

mastodon and baroness ftw!!!!!!

I use my mark IV. It can do their tones great you've just gotta be able to get it to "loosen up."
errm Mark Morton has a 59' in both the neck and the bridge on his dominion sig. You dont think his tone is metal? Go get yourself a high gain amp buddy, play just about whatever pup you want.
eurotubes has a re-tube kit specifically for the crate v3112 which is the same as the palomino v32. i just re-tubed mine with the high gain kit for about 85 bucks. sounds awesome. No bias needed as he provides a quad set of EL84's.
I'd look into eurotubes site. I just got a kit from their site for my V3112 that was high gain, all pre/power tubes for like 90 bucks. They come ready to drop in. They prolly have the C30 kit on there as well. Look into it.
they both eat tacos

they both have hair on their balls

they both shred
Dust In The Wind?
the Nova owns them all for another 50 bucks.
Awesome F'ing Album!!!!
they are a little wide in the neck, but it plays really sweet. Honestly i really like the guitar overall. I love that rockfield SWC pickup in the neck but the bridge pickup does not have enough bite for my liking. Great axe for the money tho.
ok, heres the thing. 1200W is a lot of power. You should be at 4AWG minimum. That should be thicker than quarter inch. from the length from the battery to the amp, i would go 2AWG. secondly, stock alternators werent ment to power big amps. you can buy aftermarker alternators that will have a higher amp output. 1200W? What i would do is, buy a second battery and a one way relay, this way, the alternator still charges the battery for the amp, but if the starter battery voltage fluctuates it wont dissipate the amp battery. To do everything right, find out what the RMS wattage is for your amp setup, what is the impedance of your box? then you can find out what your average requirement is. anything over 500W and a 2nd battery installed properly is a much better choice than a bigger alternator or a capacitor, although a bigger alternator never hurts.
First off, thats not the solution. You sound like the atypical, too big of an amp for what the car can handle. Solutions? If your alternator isnt messed up already, new battery? New alternator? furthermore, who installed the wiring? What is the wattage of the amp? What guage power wire was used??? If your stuff is still kosher, I would think a 1 farad cap would prolly help a lot.
My buddy plays like an '05 SZ 320 and its a sweet guitar. Very versitile. I think it has duncan designed SH-6/SH-1 combo. All mahogany with a set neck and a rosewood fretboard i believe.
does it happen to be a 60 Hz hum? Your amp by anything thats plugged into the wall? Move your computer monitor
tempo permitting, one or the other should work better. However the economy picking pattern is not set in stone, someone may prefer the exact opposite to what i suggested.
a simple harmonic, barely touch the string. you are basically aligning the true midpoint of the string with your twelfth fret note which should be the midpoint as well ideally. i think? lol
My best guess to further elaborate between the cables would have to do with the AWG of the wire used in each cable. I have never hooked my guitar up to an Oscilloscope but i would bet that the instrument cables are a much smaller wire over all compared to a cab cable. shielded or not, if you don't have enough conductor to handle the current being pushed through, it is going to overheat and short/open depending on how lucky you are.
3 years to go. I need to start buying lotto tickets. lol.
Quote by metalminded07
yes great show, btw did you guys know that neil patrick harris is gay?

DUDE!!!! Do not violate the BRO CODE!!!!!

and remember, "Thou shall not make eye contact in a devil's threeway!"
you thought incorrectly.
its not his alternator as the new battery resulted in the same clicking. if the alt. was out it should had started, ran for about ten minutes or so until the power from the battery was drained. i would replace the whole starter, theres probably a core charge at autozone anyways.
what kind of car? secondly its only going to be hard if its tough to get to. a lot of times they are located near the bottom of the motor.

EDIT: if you need to install it yourself go to the auto store and get the haynes manual for your year and model of car