when i was right in front of Bill at a Mastodon show a couple months ago, IIRC he was running two JCM 800's. Now Mastodon isnt exactly super tight focused metal. But mastodon is metal non the less. I would look around. With the right pedals it should do fine.
most mesa recto / mark users will recommend an xotic effects pedal for od. A majority of them recommending the BB preamp. gonna be hard to find one for 100 bucks though. Prolly swing one used for around 130-140.
ive gone through a similar progression with my pics...
currently im using .73mm dunlop tortex sharps. (yellow ones)
firm enough for good note definition, soft enough to give a little while strumming. The only drawback I have found is that if you have an aggressive pick attack you are going to chew through these picks quickly.
Id recommend dropping in on the grailtone forums and reading up on the III. The three is known for having good chimey cleans and a very aggressive distorted tone. One common thing I read about the III is the tradeoff between the channels tonewise depending on how you want to dial your amp in. Keep in mind the III was an early comer in the 3 channel amp world, so its not a perfectly designed amp by any means. Should be a great amp though. I dont think you will have a hard time dialing it in, not as many knobs as a IV or V
Cool, i thought it would be the same as I'm pretty sure you are referring to your epi. Dont be intimidated by intonation, its really easy. It may be obvious but I will say it anyways, make sure you intonate your guitar to the desired tuning.
a small phillips screwdriver will do the trick. I just intonated my mockingbird and it has a tune-o-matic bridge, if its too hard to turn the screw with the string at the desired tuning, loosen the string via the tuning peg and turn the screw, then tune up, double check the harmonic, repeat..etc.
Yes the Mark series are "tweaker" amps but its not like they're impossible or take forever to find "your" tone. Spending a half an hour reading the owners manual twice before you get going can cut your learning curve down exponentially. Now i cant speak for the V but I do have a IV and its a similar beast. I've had it for about a half a year now and find new tones weekly. The V will defenitly be one of the most versitile amps in your price range. Maybe looke into Axe FX?
As for practice volume, i run my IV at FULL volume (full power, simul, pentode) for bedroom practice, and its retarded brutal. Dont be fooled by the functionality of the different wattages available.
eurotubes has a re-tube kit specifically for the crate v3112 which is the same as the palomino v32. i just re-tubed mine with the high gain kit for about 85 bucks. sounds awesome. No bias needed as he provides a quad set of EL84's.
I'd look into eurotubes site. I just got a kit from their site for my V3112 that was high gain, all pre/power tubes for like 90 bucks. They come ready to drop in. They prolly have the C30 kit on there as well. Look into it.
they are a little wide in the neck, but it plays really sweet. Honestly i really like the guitar overall. I love that rockfield SWC pickup in the neck but the bridge pickup does not have enough bite for my liking. Great axe for the money tho.
ok, heres the thing. 1200W is a lot of power. You should be at 4AWG minimum. That should be thicker than quarter inch. from the length from the battery to the amp, i would go 2AWG. secondly, stock alternators werent ment to power big amps. you can buy aftermarker alternators that will have a higher amp output. 1200W? What i would do is, buy a second battery and a one way relay, this way, the alternator still charges the battery for the amp, but if the starter battery voltage fluctuates it wont dissipate the amp battery. To do everything right, find out what the RMS wattage is for your amp setup, what is the impedance of your box? then you can find out what your average requirement is. anything over 500W and a 2nd battery installed properly is a much better choice than a bigger alternator or a capacitor, although a bigger alternator never hurts.
First off, thats not the solution. You sound like the atypical, too big of an amp for what the car can handle. Solutions? If your alternator isnt messed up already, new battery? New alternator? furthermore, who installed the wiring? What is the wattage of the amp? What guage power wire was used??? If your stuff is still kosher, I would think a 1 farad cap would prolly help a lot.
My best guess to further elaborate between the cables would have to do with the AWG of the wire used in each cable. I have never hooked my guitar up to an Oscilloscope but i would bet that the instrument cables are a much smaller wire over all compared to a cab cable. shielded or not, if you don't have enough conductor to handle the current being pushed through, it is going to overheat and short/open depending on how lucky you are.
its not his alternator as the new battery resulted in the same clicking. if the alt. was out it should had started, ran for about ten minutes or so until the power from the battery was drained. i would replace the whole starter, theres probably a core charge at autozone anyways.