ENGLs are amazing for this. They have rally glassy cleans, and a very brutal hi gain channel. I actually didnt use overdrive with my Powerball, because it was tight and responsive enough without one. With my 5150ii I actually had to use an overdrive.

That being said, i prefer the sound of the 5150. If you have the money for an Invective, id say go for it. The 6505 and 6505+ dont have a good clean channel really. Maybe check out the 5150iii from EVH, those are great amps as well, and share A LOT of their dna with the Invective. 
As far as I know, they used the AxeFx units for clean sounds almost since they came out, but they still used real amps for the dirty sounds till 2013. Then they did the antarctica gig, and that was done with Axefx only, and since then, they have been using them for everything. So like 6 years now. And I dont really see a reason not to, for any touring band, even the one the size of Metallica, it just makes so much more sense to use modelers on the road. 
As far as i know, Epiphone is one of the more popular brands out there. So its hard to say that everyone thinks its crap. But since they are basicly a budget version of Gibson, they are known as budget guitars. But I dont think they are regarded as "bad" by nearly as many people as you think. 

That being said, out of a few dozen epis i tried, i only kinda liked one, the others just didnt do it for me. 
Im not sure what you are asking? Are you afraid the posts from the bridge are going to split the wood? Or that the neck is going to break of because of aditional tension? 

If its the first, some fender style bridges use 6 screws to hold it in place, not just two on either side. Same with the PRS bridges. Im not exactly sure how the Bigsby is mounted, but since it doesnt use the pivoting action like your typical bridge, it might be better for you. Then there are some flat mounted solutions, like the Floyd FRX that was mentioned.

If its the second, there really isnt a way to change the pitch of the strings without adding and releasing tension, unless you use some sort of effects box like a whammy.
Well you can judge for yourself how it sounds. I just think its overpriced. 300$ for the full version is pretty rich for a guitar sim. AND you still dont get the Bias Amp and Bias Pedal. The entire package with those two will cost you 700$, but I can at least understand paying for those separately, as they are different products. 
I honestly think that the schecters, Ibanez and Jackson are all going to be in the same ballpark. I played the JS22, and i owned a 170dx, and they were all decently playable guitars, and ive been hearing nothing but good stuff about schecters.

The stock pickups on all of them will suck tho. Do you have the option of buying used? Beucase you can get a much better guitar for that kind of money, if you go used. 

And stay away from those cheap BC rich guitars, they are bad (unless they really stepped up their game in the last few years). If nothing else, future you will be thankful you didnt go with one of those pointy things.
Quote by Seriden
The only thing that really gives me a pause on that one is the fretboard material:  Richlite.  I did some research on different boards and many players who own guitars with that material have no complaints.  I suspect however that may account for the lower price point.

I had an Epiphone Thunderhorse, and it had a richlite fretboard. Honestly, it might have been the best fretboard that i ever played. Its smooth, its durable, and it doesnt have those pores where dirt goes in, like rosewood. Its pretty much zero maintenence. And i was sceptical as fuck before I got it, almost didnt go for the guitar because of it. But it was really good.

To top it of, a lot of high end guitar makers (like Aristides for example) use richlite. I doubt it would be used on 4k+ guitars, if it wasnt any good. 
eduardogjnr Oh, the way you worded it, i thought at least 4 strings go out of tune at the same time. I just figured it wasnt enough to be noticable on the other two or something.

Then I dunno. Maybe something to do with the saddles on the bridge.

Or, you know.

S T R E C H them
The cort probably. The 370s have shitty edgeIII trems, and i have no idea about the jackson. I find it its generaly better to avoid floating bridgees on cheap guitars. Corts are also suprisingly good instruments for the price, probably because they own their own factory, instead of having to outsource shit.

But really, it could be the knife edge. When you bend the strings, the bridge tips forwards. If the knife edges are dull, it might get stuck in that position, and so the strings are a bit flat. After you use it (as in, pull it back), it ends up jumping back into the "back" position, so then everything is in tune again. I had the same issue, whenever I used the trem, i had to make sure the last thing i did was pull it back, because otherwise it ended up going flat.
Measure your saddles with calipers or something, and then check on the graphtech site to see which ones are the same. Thats pretty much it. Thomann has a 30 days return policy anyway. 
Amplitube looks nice and is easy to use, but thats about is. There are a bunch of sims that sound better. Bias, s-gear, mercurial, and even the free LePou stuff is awesome. 
My friend ran the 6505 into a cab with a normal instrument cable, and he never had any issues. So whatever actual speaker cable you use, is going to be fine. 
Id say the new prs SE 245. But i am currently crushing on prs guitars really hard, so higher level epiphones are also worth considering. And LTD EC line, if you can find the ones that arent emg equiped metal machines. Or

All in all, i think that guitars from the 600-1000€ range are pretty much the best value for money. They are usually good guitars, that are well put together, and have some nice features to them, and they play much better than the low end instruments. When you go above the 1k mark, then you start getting diminishing returns on them i think. 
eephinox if you had those issues, then you didnt setup the gear properly. I run an old M-audio fast track pro card, and i can record guitar in Reaper, play video and browse youtube at the same time. It really isnt an issue. The only thing that is inconvinient is that you have to turn on the computer first. 

I ran a setup like that for about 4 years. I didnt have an amp at home, since it just took up space and gave me worse tones, and it was so simple to record, it was really a no brainer. Now i have a more complex setup with the Helix, and the interface hooked up to a small mixer, but I still sometimes just plug into the interface and wail away. After you get the hang of it its really great. 
Well there is the option of amp sims. For that budget you can get an audio interface and some amp sims. The downside is, you have to deal with turning on the computer all of the time. The upside is easy recording and good tones. Id say that a decent amp sim can get you better tone than a Katana can. Especially if you delve a bit into impulse responses. 
dannyalcatraz oh yeah, i totaly forgot about that. Here OP, you can read some of my incoherent babling here:
jzRTCAQ!PY13575 Why are you using .90 strings? Unless you are downtuning to like.... E? What kind of a guitar do you have?
I got a Pacifica 611 a few months ago, and its amazing. Its probably the most versatile guitar I ever owned, and probably like top 3 that I played. shit man, where are you from? I got my powerball for 700€.... For the price of the H&K you can get a used powerball (2 channels with 2 modes each), Savage (again 2 channels 2 modes), and even an Invader (4 channels), and if you are lucky, you can even get the powerball II or Savage II, and those also both have 4 channels. 
eephinox Well in that case, yeah, the Katana is really the only thing you can go for. If I were you, id save up like 500-600€, that way you have the budget for a really good amp. 
If I understand this correctly, the tuner is now so tight that you cant turn it? If thats the case, you can try untightening the small screw that holds the whole tuner together.

Just find a small enough screwdriver and loosen it a bit. There is a very big chance this will solve the problem.

If it doesnt, well, then the whole tuner is fucked, and your best bet is simply replacing it. Take the tuner out of the guitar by unscrewing the nut on the front side of the headstock and the small screw that holds it in place in the back. Then take the tuner, go to a guitar store, and say "this is the kind of tuner I need". Hell, take the guitar as well, just to be safe. They should be able to help you find one that will fit into your guitar. Get some cheap ones, because im guessing you have a beginner guitar, so dont let them sell you some brandname tuners that go for 200$, just get something cheap. You might have to buy a whole set of them tho, depends on the store I guess. 

Then just install them in the same way you took it out. Pop it in, screw in the nut in the front, screw in the small screw into the back, and then tighten the nut. Not to much, but it should be fairly secure. Its pretty simple really, and you need very little tools for this, a small screwdriver and a wrench the correct size.

And the final step should be demanding a refund from whoever "fixed" it in the first place. I cant stand people who try to screw begginers over like this. 
I didnt read OP, or any posts, but im going to assume, its the amp.

EDIT: Yeah, its the amp. 

A Katana is going to be way better than the Line6 you have right now, but still not amazing. Honestly, without knowing your location and budget, we cant really say that much, except give general suggestions. As far as those go, my vote is for a used 6505+ combo. It would be miles above Jet Citites and Valvekings. 
For the guitars, the Pacifica is your best bet. They are pretty amazing guitars for the money. I have actually yet to play a bad one, even the cheap ones are amazing quality for the cash. 
No idea about the H&K, but you should look into ENGLs if you dont like the 5150. If you are in europe, there should be a huge used market of ENGLs that go for pretty cheap, and they are great amps. 
NotMarkTremonti Interestingly enough, i have the cables wrapped trough my strap since... forever really. And ive had a wireless for the last 2 years, and yet it still happens.
NotMarkTremonti Not really. Lets say i have practice 2 times a week, and a gig like every two weeks. And on the off days i also practice, so i have to plug the guitar in and out 2 times each day at least. A lot more for recording. That adds up to about 1000 cycles of jacking action (oh yeah) per year. Add to that the stress of transport, the tugging on the jack when practicing and walking around, when someone randomly steps on the cable or you go to far, and the jumping and spining at live shows.... Its the jack that really takes the most abuse in those situations. And im not really the gentlest guy with guitars as well. 

Ive also had a ton of switches fail, because switching pickups live is just so much more forceful than when just jamming at home. Pots not so much, since i just leave them at full at all times. 
Its quite possible that the mix would be better, because the sound would be coming from the same sport, and the soundguy would have way more control over it. Provided of course, that you actually feed the PA a good signal.

I have used modelers straight into PA before, and ended up using them exclusively for the last two years of giging. Even the soundguys who were very sceptical about them from the start ended up loving them. The only issue I see, is monitoring. I usually relied on monitor wedges on stage, and so far its been good, but if you have no way to monitor yourself, then you will need some sort of aditional speaker or IEM for yourself on stage.  
NotMarkTremonti Some of us have had a lot of jacks go bad. I had to replace, or at least repair the jack on every guitar that i owned for more than a year. So changing out a shit jack for a quality one right out of the gate would save me a bunch of stress, because i already know that my jack is going to fail at the worst fucking moment, if I dont replace it. Right now im not giging anymore, so its not such a big deal, but if you play live, i think 10$ is a very good price for the peace of mind that you get with a new high quality jack.
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
If mine never changed, I would've stopped buying guitars years ago.

Well thats just an outright lie.
Is there a question in this that you want answered? But in any case, tastes change. I was into the whole EMG metalized guitars, and I was really into the whole esp/jackson type guitars. Now ive sold all of those, except my 7 string, and my old Ibanez SZ320, and am much more into "mellower" guitars, like strats, teels and lps. An EC-401 was my main guitar for years, and I just sold it 3 days ago after it had been sitting in a case for over a year. It happens. 
I mean, if you are happy with it, why upgrade? If you are not, then upgrade the things that are not to your liking. You dont HAVE to upgrade it just for the sake of upgrading it. I've had my Ibanez SZ320 for over 10 years now, and I didnt change the nut, tuners or bridge, because it stays in tune just fine and i dont have any issues with it. The thing stays in tune just as well as my Pacifica 611 with a graphtech nut, locking tuners and graphite saddles. I did change the pickups because I didnt like the sound of previous ones. On the other hand, on some other guitars, I did change the nut, pots, switches and jacks, becuase they either sucked or broke down. But dont just go throwing in parts just because you feel like you have to. 

I am however, right now deciding wether to order a SE Custom 22 or 24, and when I do, im ordering a graphtech nut with it at the same time. Then im gonna see if I actually need to replace it, but it would cost me more in shipping than the nut is worth, if i order it separately. 
Quote by NotMarkTremonti
If you must have a tremolo, your best option is a Floyd or similar because they do everything that the others do AND they do things that the others can't do. It's a best of all worlds, have your cake and eat it, too kind of system.

Actually, i don have to have a trem. In fact, i would prefer the guitar to be a hardtail. BUT, ive settled on the Custom 24 SE at this point. It has splittable pups, the slightly longer scale and better upper fret acces. I actually got to play a few PRS's lately, and i didnt really like the single cut versions that much, so thats why im going with the Custom 24. And it also looks the best
But anyway, the 2018 models come with floating bridges. Now, i can just block it if it doesnt work like i want it to, but I just wondered if its any good, so i dont have to worry with blocking it really.
Quote by NotMarkTremonti
Again, if you're going to modify the Christ out of it, I would recommend saving money on the initial investment, and buy a Standard over a Custom.

I also recommend researching and planning for the long term before purchasing and again before upgrading. As I've said countless times here on U-G, doing full-blown upgrades to the nines with all Paul Reed Smith parts is going to bring the total cost up to USA Core line pricing.
Plus, there's cork sniffers who will look down their noses at you for using say Gotoh tuners instead of Phase IIIs. That's just one example.🧐

Personally, I've got my heart set on a McCarty. Either the SC 594, or the DC 594. Either way, it has to have Les Paul controls because putting the toggle in the lower rim is just useless, and I need all 4 knobs.
I'm thinking about their new metal pickup for the bridge, and something really really bluesy in the neck 😎

Wouldn't be hard or expensive to upgrade an SE into a McCarty....🤤

The only upgrade I plan on doing with it, is installing a graphtech nut. The only complaints i hear about this guitar is that the nut sucks, and i already know those nuts are amazing. The pickups are suposed to be just korean made 81/15 pups, so they should be ok, otherwise ill just throw some seymour duncans in there or something, and maybe somewhere down the line i can put in some Grover locking tuners. I really dont give a flying fuck about what the purists think about that to be honest. But im definately not going to deal with getting PRS usa parts, i really dont see the point. 
I always like how people open threads with convoluted setups, and then just dont respond to anything people ask them. Its god damn infuriating.
I wouldnt take the behringer, simply because its, well, behringer. Ive tried some of their guitar stuff, and its pretty terrible tbh.

I also had the NS-2. Didnt like it. Couldnt dial it in the way I wanted, so i dont recomend it.

So that leaves with the Silencer, but the Sentry seems like a better deal, simply because it seems to be more flexible.
Is the lulwut pear still bannable? Thanks man, thats a pretty nice review you wrote, and the video is pretty informative. I was planing on fitting a graphtech nut on it anyway, any maybe using something like a tremol-no, so i dont completely block the trem. But its good to see that people have something good to say about it.

T00DEEPBLUE i suspect that would be done by just tightening the springs so much that it always stays down? But wouldnt that mess with my intonation and action?
Um, yeah, just put the distortion after the ABY...
Hi guys,

So im thinking about getting a PRS. I wasnt a big fan for a long time, but recently i tried a few, and what do you know, they are actually pretty great. So ive been kinda deciding between the 245 or the custom 24. The custom 24 in whale blue is my favourite at this point, but im kinda iffy about the bridge. The current models all have the floating bridge, and only the 245 is hardtail. Id probably just get that one, but i think id prefer the longer scale of the custom 24. I was thinking of blocking the bridge anyway to be able to detune at will, but lately ive been playing in standard tuning like 99% of the time, so it would be nice if its at least useful.