Between a used 6505 and a new 6260, I'd go Peavey every time -- not just because it's the original, but because they're proven rock solid, reliable amps.
I couldnt agree more, but then again, used markets and prices of new amps are widely different in different countries. Where i come from, a used 6505 is still more expensive than a new Bugera. Really beaten down ones are kinda in the same ballpark, but then you got to count in the price of new tubes and a general service. Used Mesas can go for 1,5k, while a new bugera trirec is less than half that price. Its kinda hard to justify spending twice the ammount of money for a not that huge improvement in sound. And its hard to argue that better reliability justifies the price, since you can literally buy 2 amps with warranty for the price of one used Mesa.
KailM Thanks man, its interesting to see that you use the blue channel for leads, id have thought its the other way around. And yeah, i plan to use the amp with my Helix. Thats already the way i use my current amp, and its great!
So after luging my old 5150II to the tech, i was reminded why i carry it around with me so rarely. It weight a metric ton, and its big. But, i do still love the sound, so im thinking about selling it and getting one of the new 50w 5150III's. According to the specs its less than half the weight, so thats good.
Seeing how there are two options, which one is better? I like the tone of my 5150ii a lot, so would it be safer to go with the 6l6 version? Im gonna get the new one with the concentric pots of course, so that wont be an issue. I also cant really try them out. Anyway, any opinions or advice?
People bash on bugers a lot here, but so far i havent actually seen one fail. A guitarist in one of my bands has had a bugera for like 7 years now, and it works just fine. And i know of a few people who have been using them for years without any issues. I only know some guy whos footswitch failed, but thats it.
oyvey26R45VT Im not sure yet. The tech guy says he is gonna keep it for another day or two to really check it out, and i told him to just replace everything that shows a sign of problems, but so far im under 100€ and that included 4 new preamp tubes. At this point its actually incredibly cheap.
oneblackened happens on both channels, altough its easier to coax it into this stage on the red one. On the green one the gain seems to fluctuate with the loudness as well. And its not as regular, its more random than on the red channel. The power tubes should be pretty much new, unless the person who sold me the amp screwed me over. They were suposed to have been changed a few week before i bought the amp, and that was less than 6 months ago. And i really havent been playing it much anyway, it has like 30 hours of playtime since then.
In any case, ill probably take it to a tech, but id like to know at least what this could be. If its some sort of costly 1000€ type repair, im better of just buying a new one.
So, after a while i played my big amp again, and what do you know, it has some problems. When crancked somewhat loud (actually not over 5, its at around 3-4), it starts dropping out after a while. Its like a fucked up tremolo effect or something. It also does it on the green channel, not just the red one. I shot a video of it, i hope you can hear what it happening. It also goes away after i either mess with the controls or put it to standby for a few seconds.
I ran my guitar with EMGs straight into the amp, into a 2x12 framus cab with V30s. Could it be that the cab cant take it and the speakers get messed up because of the power? Or is it the amp. Its a pretty old one, i think its early 2000s or late 90s made. Anyway, heres the video, and any help would of course be apreciated!
goldenpie6 Well thats how i started lessons, by having a job and paying for them myself. Also, people mostly dont understand that good singing reaquiers a lot of work. For some reason everyone just thinks that some people are born with it. But if that were true, opera singers wouldnt spend their entire lives learning how to sing better.
Anyway, if you cant get lessons, joining a choir is the best thing for you. Im sure you have a school choir. You will have to suck it up and sing some songs that you dont like, but it will do you wonders.
And just a fun fact, your screaming will get way way better when you learn how to sing propperly. At least it helped me a lot, and now my screams are better than ever.
babysmasher Yeah, i figured as much, but thats a really poor choice of words Especially since you pretty much just describe making any kind of sound in general with those words, not just singing. I just dont want OP to get any wrong ideas, ive actually seen a few kids as young as him get serious issues from poor technique.
goldenpie6 Thats an easy choice. If you have to choose between guitar and singing lessons, take singing lessons. Its much easier to be a self taught guitarist than a self taught singer. Learning how to sing from youtube videos is a gamble at best. Since you have no one to actually check what you are doing, its very easy to pick up bad habits and wrong techniqes, that are gonna be hard to break after a while, and at worst, it can really damage your voice. Breathing excercises should be safe tho, and those can help a lot. Also learning how to breathe from your diaphragm.
Singing is not like guitar, you cant watch someone sing and see what exactly they are doing. You can only go by descriptions and subtle cues in the sound and body language. Thats why a good teacher is really important, he or she can actually notice what it is that you are doing wrong, and find a way to correct it. Youtube cant. And there is also the fact that teaching yourself, if everything goes well, is going to be way harder and longer than getting a teacher. I was a singer in bands for 5 years before i got lessons, and i improved more in 6 months of lessons than i did in the entire 5 years before.
Sure, there are some great singers that never took lessons, like Dio, Bruce Dickinson, Steven Tyler, and so on, but those are really rare. For every one of those prodigies, there are a hundred of singers who managed to fuck up their voices by singing incorrectly. My dad and my aunt both had to have vocal nodule surgery, and i can tell you its no picnic.
Oh, and dont thighten up your vocal cords or throat while you sing, thats just the most horrible advice i have ever seen about singing.
Thats a loaded question, because everyone has different preferences about string gauges. For example, i used 10-52 for drop C and D standard. Nowdays i go with 56-10 if i can find a set. And thats on a 24,75" scale guitar.
dspellman Thats actually the way this guy makes earphones. Takes a mold, and makes them fit your ear perfectly. I think that should solve the bottom end issue as well, since its gonna be really tight and not let the bass escape when the earbuds arent sealing well. But honestly i have issues with the unit as well, since it just doesnt give that good of a sound. I ran some music trough it and its of very noticable worse quality than what went into it. And its also very noisy, and also has random artifacts the whole time.
So i recently started playing in a new band. We pretty much run modelers into a Behringer x18 mixer and into in ears. Its actually a pretty cool setup, however im not really happy with my inear system. I currently have a LG Systems MEI 1000 G2 system and Shure SE215 headphones. I got the setup a few years ago, but i never actually used it outside of a few practices with my old band. Now i did manage to setup a nice patch on my helix that sounds decent trough this, but its still not really ideal. There are sill pops, hums, burps and all manner of sounds from the wireless unit, and im loosing a lot of low end, to the point where i have a +15dB boost on the low end in my Helix, just to make the sound decent in my ears.
So im thinking about an upgrade. I found a local custom inear maker, that comes pretty well recomended. A lot of professionals around here apparently use his earphones, and they are pretty affordable as well.
Im also looking at an upgrade for the system itself. Im looking at the Sennheiser EW 300 system, but i really have no way of testing it, and im not sure if its gonna be that much better. My budget is like 800€ for the system istelf, and the headphones are 350€ itself, so i guess the total budget would be 1200€. Also, should i upgrade the heapdhones first, or the unit? Are there better units for the price as the Sennheiser ew 300?
I owned a korina explorer a few years ago. I got it second hand, but it didnt really look all that banged up and actually was taken care of pretty well. But it was one o the worst guitar i ever owned. The neck was felt awful, it buzzed even after a ton of setup, it had a lot of neckdive (probably because the body is way light), and the weirdest thing was, that the neck was really bendy. I know you can bend all necks if you apply enough force, but with this one you actually had to be careful while playing, because you could accidently bend the whole thing out of tune. It was strange to say the least. I may have gotten a lemon, but it left a sour taste in my mouth.
I have also played one of the 1984 explorers. I think they look better, especially the white one, but honestly, it really didnt do much for me, and it had a pretty thick neck. But all in all it was a way better guitar than the korina that i owned.
Id suggest a Line6 Helix. But lemme break down the kemper first, since i owned it for about a year and played a bunch of gigs with it.
Once its setup it sounds and feels great. I really cant fault it there, the sounds are great once you get a good profile. And thats where things get complicated. Its a nightmare to setup, because of the small screen and really shitty computer software. Navigating on the kemper itself is a bitch, and so is shifting trough literally thousands of profiles, just to find the 3 that you really like. Its just annoying as hell, and by the end, i ended up with subpar patches simply because i just couldnt deal with the 1996 style menus and rotary knobs that feel like they are gonna break of if you look at them wrong. You are also dependant on profile makers, because once a profile is made, you cant really tweak it that much, before it starts sounding weird. So you have to find a profile that is already 99% where you want it and then tweak it minimally. Its not like other modelers, where you have amp models and then you can fuck around with the knobs as much as you like. Yeah, the kemper can do that as well, but it just makes the profile sound strange, in a bad way. That means that you need to go trough A LOT of profiles, and since the software for it is so buggy, its a pretty unplesant experience. I really wouldnt recommend the kemper to anyone, except people with a large colection of their own amps that they want to profile for personal use.
Anyway, after about of year of fuckery with it, I sold it and got the Helix. Its a godsent. Setting up patches is the most simple i have ever seen on a modeler. The way it handles impulse responses is the best i have ever seen, building complex chains is a breeze, and the scribble strips make even the most complicated patches easy to use, since you have everything written down. I think that the sound is on par with the kemper as well. I actually did a blind test where i recorded the same riff with 3 different kemper profiles, and 3 helix patches, and nobody could guess which is which. Also, since its single unit, you dont need to lug around a separate pedalboard for it (unless you get the rack version of course). In a live setting its just as good as the kemper sound wise, and much better than kemper in everything else, because the screens make it so easy to know what you are doing, and the simple user interface actually makes it possible to tweak presets on the fly, instead of battling trough a bunch of monochrome menus on the kemper.
As far as AX8 goes, i have no idea, i never used it. But i very much doubt its better than the helix.
Oh yeah, i used both of them live direct into PA, and just used the venue monitors for stage volume. Thats it, no aditional power amps or whatnot. For practice i actually did use the kemper (i had the powered version) trough a cab, and i use the helix either trough an active speaker or trough inears now.
Well hi gain patches will have a certain ammount of hum in any case. Throw in a noisegate block or something. But honestly, all of this sounds like poor playing and you not really knowing how to setup a patch. Try to find some videos online how to setup patches on the axe.
OiUw0tm8 Go from the output 1 section on the axe to the input A on the speaker. Just plug one end in the output 1 unbalanced left and then plug that same cable into input A on the QSC. Thats it. Since you bought a dual cable for some reason, you can also go from unbalanced righti into input B on the qsc, but that wont do much, since you cant get stereo sound from one speaker. The reason that the cable you bought is a dual one, is to run this kind of equipment in stereo mode, but you need two speakers for that.
Honestly, this isnt that hard, with this kind of equipment you always have to go from the "output" part to the "input" part of the speaker. And you cant really fuck anything up cable wise, because the cable either fits into one of the openings, or it doesnt. If it does, it works, if it doesnt, well, it cant work.
Id say you need 2 midi cables, because the axefx probably also sends midi info to the FCB as well, to control the leds display on it. You then need some sort of cable to go from the axe to the speaker (id suggest XLR, but i think a normal guitar cable will work as well), and a cable to go from guitar to axe. Besides power cables thats pretty much it.
But having spare cables is always a good idea. They arent that expensive, and some of them ARE GOING TO FAIL at one point or another. So you can either get a spare for every cable you have now, or wait until they die. I dont even know how many cables i have a this point, but i know that whenever i had just one of whatever type, it always failed in the worst moment possible.
What you just said is that you didn't have interest in guitar, you had interest in loud noises. Then when that phase passed you, you gained interest in guitar and started actually learning how to play it. That's how I see 100% of the stories. Every beginner I've introduced to guitar always wants to play the electric and they never progress. It's a case of the lack of genuine interest in the instrument.
* if you look at that youtuber Robert Baker, you'll see he said he didn't learn a chord for 3 month, he only wanted to play solos. (I guess he practiced scales? Not knowing that every solo is made of some sort of chords, baha.) that right there is reason number 1 not to get an electric guitar, you will sit there trying to play songs instead of learning fundamentals. Not that you shouldn't play songs as Ast as you can, but that the vast majority of people who start on electric never get past the stage to play a song. I got my electric guitar from my brother, who bought it 4 years ago, "played it" for a week and put it away, until he told me to take it when he noticed I was learning acoustic.
Well aint that quite a statement. In some sort of convoluted way you may be right, I had interest in playing music that i like the most. The acoustic guitar wasnt the right instrument to play the music i liked. Thats why i had more fun with the electric. So no, i didnt really intend to delve into the depths of the guitar and analyze chords to the point of obsession, i just wanted to play music that i like. If you wanna call that "not having an interest in guitar, but rather in loud noises", ok then. Ultimately my approach made me a better guitarist on both kinds of guitar in just a few months, as in before, i spent two years doing nothing.
I have no idea who Robert Baker is, and i honestly dont care. And i have more friends who have acoustics that they abandoned after a few weeks of playing than friends who have electrics and did the same.
Also, you pretty much equated all the geners that use electric guitar to "loud noise". So thats kind of a dick move, dont you think? I wouldnt say that jazz is just playing random notes in random orders, and that folk music is just 3 chords and a redneck mellody, because i know better. So why do you feel the need to demean the entire rock genre and people who like electric guitars?
Your voice actually sounds pretty good! But you really dont have much in the ways of technique, and it sounds like you are really holding back because you dont want to be to loud. I think if you actually sang with some volume, it would sound much better. Seeing as how you are 13 and how you sound, i suspect your voice just broke not long ago, so its pretty much expected that you dont have that much control over it.
What can you do to get better? Get a teacher of course. Thats the easiest way to do it, and seeing as how you are young, its also the safest, since your voice is still young and changing, so it can get messed up if you are using it wrong. My little sister has been taking singing lessons since she was around your age, and it helped her a lot. Just make sure its a good teacher.
The second way is to join a choir! You are (hopefully) still in school, and schools have choirs. I know a lot of singers who were in choirs in elementary and high school, and they really have an edge over me, because not only do they know how to sing, they also have to deal with harmonies, so they are really good at singing with other people. Its also much cheaper than a private teacher, probably even free. The downside is that you dont get to pick the songs. The upside is that you get to hang out with people with similar interests (and most of them are chicks). I think this is actually the best way to learn for someone your age.
All in all i think you sound good, but you do have a lot to learn. And thats ok, since you are very young. So dont get discouraged, singing is fun!
What do you mean "what pedal"? If you mean for the distorted sound, he is probably using some sort of an overdrive pedal into some sort of hi gain amp like the 6505 or Dual Rectifier of one of the Engls. He probably also uses a bit of delay for the lead parts. He could also be using amp sims, but i cant really tell. But he certanly isnt using just one pedal for distiortion trough a clean amp.
From a personal perspective, id say no. I wanted to play guitar, and i loved rock and metal music. I was forced to start an an acoustic, and that pretty much stalled my playing for about 2 years. I only learned a few chords, and then when i tried to learn some songs from bands that i actually like, it just sounded like crap on an acoustic, and that really made it not fun to play. So i pretty much stopped, until after a few years i finally had enough money to buy myself an electric guitar and amp. They were both shitty, but just having a bit of distortion was fun, and i havent stopped playing in over 10 years. Also, when i started getting better on the electric guitar, that also increased my interest in acoustic, and after a few months of having my first electric i actually played more acoustic guitar than i did when i first started out with just acoustic.
Carabiniero8 I went without a hardcase for about 4 years before i got one with a used guitar. I used a softcase for giging for a long time. And at home i just put my guitars on a stand. You can get a stand for like 15$. You really dont need a hardcase at this point. Like somsip said, all you need is a guitar, pick and a tuner. And you can just get a tuner app for your phone at first, or get a cheap clip on tuner. Id really invest the majority of the money into the guitar at this point. And good hardcases are over 100$, so the one that comes with the cheap set is probably pretty bad.
Soxtar I used it for punk and metal. You can get a decent hi gain sound on it out of the lead channel on the hi gain mode. Modern sounds to scooped. Also a speaker swap would probably do wonders for it, since mine still had the blue marvel speaker.
Yes, a scarlett 2i4 (actually probably any of the scarletts will do), connect that sucker to the computer with a usb cable, install the drivers and you are ready to go!
Well not quite. You also need some sort of amp modeling software. Be it one of the comercial ones (BIAS, Amplitube, GuitarRig, Helix Native....) or freeware ones (LePou plugins are great), and a recording program like Reaper, Cubase, Pro Tools, Cacewalk.... I recommend Reaper, because its basicly free (unlimited trial), and very user friendly with tons of tutorials online.
You will still need to figure out how to run all of this together. But it shouldnt be to hard, and its gonna give you a lot of flexibility.
Im gonna go with the Bandit as well. I had one, and it played great with pedal, and the drives were very much usable as well. I giged with it for years, and i never had any sort of issues with it. One time it got soaked by rain for like 30 minutes, and a week later it still worked perfectly. I only sold it last year, and i kinda regret it, because it was the simplest setup i had, and kinda perfect for some drunken jams and family parties.
Well first of all, you are not required to get an acoustic guitar as your first by any means. I was forced to start with an acoustic and i spent two years hating it before i bought myself my first electric guitar. If you want to play an acoustic music, thats cool, and you should get an acoustic, but if your end goal is to play electric guitar, get an electric one. Im just saying that, because a lot of beginners think they have to star on an coustic, and end up hating it.
So, now that this is out of the way, i think that you should get the best guitar possible. A used 50$ guitar doesnt really sound that appealing to me. It probably wasnt cared for very well (could be wrong, but a lot of beginner guitars are), it was probably way cheap when new, and those two things arent a good combination. And since you say you dont need the electric part, i think you should get the best full acoustic you can. Since its an acoustic, id say you shouldnt even go for the bundle. A 155$ guitar, case and strap are not gonna be stellar. If you have a 200$ budget, id suggest spending all of it on a guitar. Yamahas are still a good choice, because they make excelent lower end instruments, but a 100$ guitar still wont be amazing.
You can also check used listings on craigslist that are in your budget. With a bit of luck you can snag a used guitar that was twice the price when it was new, so for 200$ you can get a 400$ guitar, and thats already a decent instrument. And if you decide to sell it, it will probably hold its value way better.
Remember, just because its your first guitar, it doesnt mean it has to suck.
Well then get the JCM800. I think the Ceriatone one in the demo is as spot on as you can get, and you probably get the same ammount of variance between two marshall heads anyway, but whatever. You also dont want copies like the Peavey Windsor or the Ceriatone. So just get a used 800 and thats it.
If your amp has an effects loop, you can even use it to put effects in front and after the loop. You dont have to use amp sims, and you dont have to go straight into the mixer with it.
However if you only want to use effects with your amp, id recommend the HX effects. Its just a tad more expensive, but it has a smaller footprint, and the effects are on another level. And it doesnt have amp modeling, and if you dont need it, i think its better to not have it, because it can just confuse you.
Dude, Maiden used so much different gear for every album and tour that you can pin down a specific amp that will "do maiden". A silver jubilee should work just as well as the JCM800. Maybe even better, with all the more advanced options it has.
I do both. I ran my kemper trough guitar cabs for band practice, into studio monitors at home. At gigs i usually ran it straight to PA and used venue monitors for stage volume, excet a few times where i used an actual cab on stage, bust still went straight to PA from the kemper, so that cab wasnt miced up.
Now i have a helix, and i do pretty much the same, except i use the 4CM with a real amp head for practice, and i jsut go straight for everything else.
You do not need to connect head with cab and you can forget about impedance. OP is comparing a modeller to a combo. I prefer combos for simplicity and to unload my car in 1 trip. A 40W amp is loud enough for small gig to avoid mics completely. For bigger gigs, there is a PA and a person or team to operate it. You have enough level to hear yourself and the rest of the problems are not yours, they are the problem of whoever is hired for the sound.
Only modern pedals work in the loop. Stuff like a phase 90 clips in the loop. So I keep all the pedal before the amp for simplicity, nothing goes in the effects loop. No wah so I do not have to operate anything while playing. I do not use batteries a good power supply like a cioks or voodoo lab covers all the needs with different pedal voltages, they have a wire to cater for all pedals, even positive ground fuzz pedals. There are a few patch cables involved, but if the pedals are on a pedalboard, even a piece of wood, the pedals are pre wired. On gig day all you have to do is plug guitar to pedalboard and pedalboard to amp. If you have a 5 pedal system, which is small and ideal for small gigs, there is no tap dancing involved. You still have to use something on a modeller to switch sounds. 5 pedal system is good as it is light to carry and small, does not take too much floor space if the stage is small.
Well seeing as how he is gonna buy a new amp, lets say he is gonna buy new pedals as well, so they wont clip in the loop. And if he plays metal he sure as hell wont put a delay in front of the amp for leads, because its just gonna sound like muddy farts instead of crisp leads.
So lets say we have a 5 pedal system. A wah, overdrive, eq, reverb and delay. And a combo amp. We need to setup the amp first. Run cables from the pedalboard to the amp, guitar to pedalboard and then another two cables for the loop. Then setup a microphone in front of the amp. We are up to 5 cables. 6 if you count the one for the amp channel switching. Ok, now the rig is setup and we can start the gig.
The gig is going along fine, but now he has to switch from his lead tone straight to his clean tone. He has to turn of the delay, eq and overdrive. Then he has to turn on the reverb and switch the channel. Thats 5 separate switches he has to hit. And then to go from clean to rhythm again, he has to switch channels, turn on overdrive and turn of reverb. Again, 3 separate switches. When the gig is over, that is a significant amount of switching.
Now lets see how I do it. I put a modeler on the floor. Connect one xlr cable into the back to FOH. And i plug the guitar into the front. So thats 2 cables. Then i start playing and for every sound, i need to press exactly one switch. And that switch is labeled, so i cant even get confused. And the whole thing takes up way less floor space than amp+pedalboard, and you dont have the danger of tripping over a microphone. The only downside? You get the sound from the monitors, instead of from the amp. Now i dunno about you, but i play gigs so that people can enjoy them, not so i can hear my amp behind me. If you want to run it into a poweramp and cab, thats 2 more cables. Still less than even the simplest real amp setup.
I was in a band with a guitar player who had a prewired pedalboard and a combo amp. All he had to do was power up the power supply and run the cables back and forth. It took him about 3x as long as me to setup, back when i had a kemper. And with the kemper i had to put down my controller as well. I was already done with my soundcheck by the time he was pluging in his guitar.
I also had an amp+pedalboard setup for years. I had 7 pedals on there, and one of them was a tuner and one was a noise gate that was constantly on. I know exactly how it works, and i know exactly what kind of a workload i had before i switched to modelers for giging. You simply cant compare it. Its just that much easier.
Oh, and lets not forget, 5 measly pedals will set you back about 500€. Or lets say 300€ if you get some nice used ones. A pedalboard is free if you can build it, and the power supply, at least a good one, is another 150€. So thats about 450€ for a full 5 pedal pedalboard AT LEAST. Add that to the cost of the DSL40 to get the real price of his setup. Now im no math wiz, but the LT costs much less than that.