Quote by hejsanha3
Imo they sound okay 

Thats all the answer you need.
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
That's a nut problem, not a tuner problem.

Either that or you staight up don't know how to string a guitar properly.

I replaced the Gotohs on my FGN with Gotoh magnum locking tuners and the tuning stability of that guitar didn't change one iota. It made no difference.

Dunno.   Its just my experience. I never actually switched from standard to locking tuners on a guitar, so i cant compare. But two of my guitars came with locking tuners, and they stay in tune somewhat better/longer than the other ones. One has a fancy graphtech nut, and one has a normal plastic nut. Other guitars also have a mix of plastic and whatevergraphtechis nuts, and in general they dont stay in tune as long. So take that however you will. 
Try them. Seriously, people overthink everything.
If this was yesterday, there is a big big chance its not dry yet. There could be moisture trapped in some circuit or whatever. Put it in a well ventilated and warm area, and leave it there for like... 2 weeks or something, just to be sure. I actually had the same thing happen to me, and thats what I did, and it worked perfectly afterwards. But I waited 2 weeks. 
Quote by hippychip
Locking tuners make no difference when it comes to staying in tune---they just cost more, and save a few seconds on string changes---just get some good regular tuners.

I dunno, both my guitars with locking tuners stay in tune better than other ones. And they are all fixed bridge guitars. 
Well first of all, you need an audio interface. Something like THIS would probably do the job, and it fits into your 60 quid budget. Then you need to install a DAW (basicly a music recording and editing program). I recommend Reaper, since it (at least it used to have) and unlimited free trial. Then you need an actual amp simulator. There are a lot of free ones out there, so just search for "free guitar amp vst" on google, and take your pick. Or look at paid ones like amplitube and bias, you a n probably find them on, ahem... alternative sites.

Amp sims are usually in the form of VST plugins, which means they dont run standalone, but inside your DAW. So you will need to install the DAW, install the amp sim, and then configure the DAW to use the path to the .vst plugin that you installed.

After that, just fire up the DAW, put in a new track, select the amp sim as the effect, and off you go. I know it sounds complicated, but really its no more complex than installing any sort of hardware on your computer.
I cant speak about the fender, but i got a PRS SE custom 22 a few months ago. It plays nice, and after a nut change it stays in tune very well. I also blocked of the bridge, because it just dont use it. The pickups are indeed very versatile. Suprisingly, there is barely any drop in volume when coil splitting is engaged, and so the guitar can go from crisp cleans to a fat distorted sound very well. Im not sure if the 22 is voiced differently than the 24 tho. Its got a 25" scale compared to the fender 25.5", so that might be a slight difference for you. There are times when i feel like i can tell the difference, but at other times i cant. Honestly, its just an all around good guitar for the price. But i dont think you can really go wrong with either. 
Quote by agenta_3
I don't have the money and the need for a better amp right now. I'll wait a few weeks before deciding to change pickups.
Is there an effect that can help me get a better modern metal tone with my amp? Thanks.

Maybe a preamp pedal would work.

But check this out: you managed to save money for pickups. Now, just do the same thing again, and save more money. And then do it again. And then you will have enough money for a 6505. Its simple really. 
Distortion_101 Poly finishes play in just like any other. I had a bunch of guitars that started out with sticky necks, and then got way better after a few hours of playing. In any case, you can try polishing it back to smooth again. It might work.

BTW, I also have a SZ320, and its been my favourite guitar for around 8 years now. I used it as my main guitar for years, but now I keep it at home for recording and just playing, and use others for live playing, because this thing has taken a lot of abuse already. But its an amazing guitar, and im pretty sad that Ibanez stopped making the SZ and SZR lines. 
Chances are, the solder joints are coming undone. Take it out, and check if there are any bad connections on it and resolder them. You can also use some sandpaper on the spots where the jack and cable actually make contact. Just lightly sanding it will take of any oxidation and it might just work again.

That being said, a top quality jack is like 3$, so just changing it might be your best bet. Literally every music store should carry them. 
Its probably the nut. The string are probably catching in it. The "ping" sounds like that could be the issue, this usually happens when the string "jumps" in the nut. You can also try just decking the trem by tightening the springs in the back. Or at least block it with a snugly fit piece of wood, dont use cardboard man....

Oh, and take it to an actual tech, not GC.
52 - 10 for me. Its kinda light on a 24.75" scale, but it works perfectly for me on a 25.5"
The Katana IMO, it can do a bunch of stuff, including metal, and it has a 12" speaker. The Orange only has an 8". And the Marshall is widely known to be one of the worst beginner amps. 
The m13 DSP (digital signal processor) is not nearly as powerful as the HXFX one, and probably cant run the more complex models that the hxfx uses. And then there is also the question of the analog to digital conversion and back again, which was probably also improved. Like Delirium said, its basicly and old vs new computer.  
Captaincranky Please enlighten me, how this could be considered centered:

The route is obviously to far right, and then the pickup is mounted to the right side of the cavity as well. I have no idea if its 1/8" of an inch, but it looks like at least a couple mm of difference, and its very noticeable. And no, since the spacing of the pole pieces isnt exactly the same as the spacing of the string, only the center pole piece would be aligned with the string, if the pickup was actually centered. But its not. Its to far right.
Captaincranky Dude. Look how far the right end of the bobin sticks over the fretboard and how far the left does. In what world would you call that "centered"? 

jzRTCAQ!PY13575 Dude, i use a 60-11 set forC, B and drop A, a 54-10 for everything between C and Eb, and a 46-10 for E and drop D. The highest i went was a .70 for the low A at one point.

I dont wanna bash your string choice, but you are basicly hanging a 12 year old child on an already fully strung neck with the additional tension. Maybe its time to rethink this?
Id really like to know why you are using such a heavy set. TBH, it could be anything, maybe the truss rod just gave up after having to deal with this.
adetheheat Yes, you can do that. And it will also work on the LT as well. You can plug into one of the fx returns, and then configure path 2 to use it as an input. 
Things get more expensive because of a thing called "inflation". For someone pretending to be smart, its weird that you dont comprehend such a concept. And comparing a valveking and an Invective is just stupid, unless the valveking has a built in boost, 3 channels, noise gate, midi support and a DI out with a speaker sim. Oh wait, it doesnt. 

A bugera will not destroy a kemper. And you seem like you are missing the point of modelers. Its much easier for touring acts to carry around a simple modeler, than a full tube amp rig. Someone as smart as you should probably understand this.

I guess you are not as smart as you think you are huh?
alper_bac1 well to be honest, you can use whatever pickups you want in this guitar. They provide some sort of mounting rings for them, and you wire the pickup into the ring, and then the whole thing gets switched out. When you order a guitar, they will wire 3 sets of pickups for you for free, and you can then just get the mounting rings and wire in whatever pickups you want. Its not ideal, but its a hell of a lot better than just having to use their pickups. 
Quote by fupashredder
lol fair enough.  what makes you dislike it? i like it for its crispiness if that makes sense

Its thin, undefined, shrill and sounds "digital". No mids as well. It basicly sounds like a metalzone into a solid state amp with a 10" speaker. This kind of tone also get buried in a mix, if you ever get to play with other people. Its basicly everything a hi gain metal tone shouldnt be.

But, come to think of it, you could actually get a metalzone pedal, and run it trough the clean channel of your amp. It will probably come close to this sound.
I doubt you will be able to get that same tone with a 5150III. Mainly because the tone from the video sucks, and 5150iii's are great amps.
Price matching is a thing, but i doubt you can go much lower. I usually get some discount in my local stores, but thats because im a regular customers. And they are more expensive than online retailers from the get go... Your best bet are probably items that they had since forever (ive seen guitars marked down for 60% in such cases), and just wanna get rid of, or ones that have cosmetic imperfections and whatnot. 

That being said, it surely wont hurt to ask, and if you are waiting for it for this long, you might actually have a decent chance for a 5-10% discount. 
Well this wont really be an upgrade over the bridge thats already in the guitar. But if you just wanna mess around with a budget guitar first, thats fine. The easiest way to see if this bridge will fit your guitar is to simply measure it. You have all the measurements in the second picture in the ebay add. Then just measure the existing bridge on your guitar, and see if it will fit. If the guitar has a string trough bridge, that might be an issue, but you can really just measure everything to make sure it will fit. 
Yeah, with threads like this, always post your location and budget.

Anyway, a LTD H-1007FR is right up your alley. Altough it might not have the slimmest of necks as far as 7 strings go.
Its going to work just fine, but id send it back anyway. Its a brand new guitar, and things should be aligned like they are suposed to be. 
If you run it in 4 cable mode, you can run is as a normal pedalboard with no amp modeling whatsoever, so that would actually be pretty simple, if you have your amp diealed in however you want. And if you want amp modeling, you can still bypass the hot rod preamp even in 4 cable mode, so its like you are runing direct into fx return. So yeah, thats how id use it with an actual amp (actuall i did use it this exact way for a while, before i sold my amp). 

The issue with helix, and pretty much every single modeler out there, is the amount of options. You can just tweak and tweak and tweak and tweak until you die from old age, and never stumble onto a tone thats "just right". What I find that makes it easier, is to actually think about what kind of a tone you want, and then start building it. And then just build it, like you are making an actual rig. So for example, lets say I want a hi gain tone. So I select one of the hi gain amp models, load in a 4x12 cab with V30 speakers, and an overdrive in front of the amp. Then you set that up to sound good. And only after you have a solid base tone, THEN you start messing around with effects. You got to figure out some sort of a system to how you build your patches, otherwise you just keep adding blocks here and there and dont really know what the fuck you are doing.

Sadly, even with that, its never going to be as simple as pluging into a tube amp and jaming away. There are some specifics to setting up modelers, and it has a lot to do with how cabs are modeled. You definetly dont need 3 compressor and 4 eq blocks and 4 reverbs to make it sound good. BUT, due to cab modeling, you do have to get at least a bit creative with the eqs. Usually its safe to simply put an eq block in the last place in the chain, and do a low cut at around 100hz to get rid of the boomines of palm mutes and so on, and maybe a hi cut at 10-15khz (depends on the taste) to tame the fizz. Then it just comes down to taste and experience.

After you manage to setup a patch, its pretty much done tho. I actually use 2 different patches all in all, one for hi gain tight metal stuff, and one for pretty much everything else, and thats it. 

If you have any specific questions you can hit me up, I actually had similar problems with it as you have, but i managed to power trough them and now i love the damn thing and its flexibility. 
LTD MH or H 1007 with a floyd is literally everything you want. 25,5" scale, floating bridge, emg pickups, and they are actually great guitars. I have a fixed bridge h 1007 and its pretty great. 
Well i was going to suggest the emg 57, its literally the best pickup for me in terms of metal, but i see you dont like it. 
Quote by dspellman
Helix. And not the LT, but the Helix.
The ergonomics alone put it well beyond most of the other floor units on the market, and the ability to rout in almost any possible way *easily* is well beyond most other units. Quality of sound is there (no, there's no "plasticky" sound in person), and never buy crap based on YouTube vids if you can help it, *particularly* if it involves sound quality decisions. Yikes.

I've never owned a Kemper, I *do* currently own an older Axe, and I've had a bunch of Pods and a Zoom or two.

I think it comes down to how you use it. For home use, i think the LT is just as good as the big one. But for live use the aditional scribble strips and IO is just a godsend. Shit, just the fact that I can write chord progressions that I usually forget on the strips makes them worth it in my opinion
I was considering getting one of the swedes a while ago. Ended up with a Pacifica, but im still gasing for one from time to itme. Are they good guitars?
Id suggest looking into the Line6 relays. The G10 is about the price of the units that you looked into, and its actually pretty great. I know a lot of people who use them live all of the time. Im actually considering buying one just for home use, they seem very handy. And while im not a big fan of dongles sticking out of the guitar (thats why I got a G50, but more on that later), at least the G10 doesnt have that flimsy plastic hinge that all other cheap wirelesses seem to have, which I like, but it might be an issue for guitars with a strat like input jack (altough a quick search does show it works just fine).

But, if you have the budget, id look into the higher end ones. I own the G50 for about....5 years now. Used it live a lot as well as for practice, and its just great. Its built well, with a full metal housing for the belt pack and a really sturdy reciever. Didnt have a single droupout yet, and if you remember to change batteries before a gig, its going to work. Unless you play 12 hours gigs. Oh yeah, eventho its digital (as is the G10) i never noticed any delay. And i did an A/B test with a cable, and there is no loss of signal at all. 
laka74 No problem, I always love geeking out over the Helix  
Is worth noting that the bass plays the same line as the guitar, and a lot of the tone comes from the bass. You probably wont be able to get the guitar to sound this full. But all in all its just a lot of distortion with mids set very low. 
Warning: helix owner here, so i may be a tad biased. 

If you are basing your decision on youtube demos, you really should try and find some blind tests, because utorial videos dont really show of the sound of the units anyway. Blind tests really demonstrate that once people cant see what they are playing on, it becomes way way harder to tell modelers appart from eachoter and even actual amps. They all also have a decent learning curve, some more than others, and require a bit of tweaking, but the sound quality is there with pretty much all of them. Im sure you can get a great sound out of all those. When i was buying a modeler, i also chose between the AX8, Headrush and Helix.

So that being said, it pretty much comes down to ease of use, realiability and support. So the AX8 is notoriously hard to use, and its a pretty old unit, so its not going to be updated for that much longer (if it even still is), especially with Fractal releasing AxeFx3 last year, so they will probably work on a new version of ax8. Also, depending on where you live, they are very hard to come by. 

The Headrush is easy to use, sounds good and looks nice, but its basicly a floor based elevenrack. Im sure the software was upgraded, but the way Avid handled Elevenrack was just bad. It had a very short official support and update lifespan, and a lot of people are afraid that this will happen to headrush as well. They also dont seem to have very good customer support, and there are a bunch of people posting online about their headrushes simply bricking themselves. 

Boss GT-1000, well i dunno a lot about that one to be sure, since it came out after I got my Helix, so I didnt really think about buying it. But it does seem a bit lacking compared to the helix. The one thing that it really got wrong was a lack of support for IRs, but they fixed that now. BUT, the IR loader is clumsy to say the least. The sound is probably ok, but Boss was never known for their good amp sims. It is a bit cheaper than the helix floor, but helix LT is around the same price, so thats something to keep in mind. 

Now for the Helix. I have the floor model, not the LT or rack, but most of this can be applied to all of those. First, the sound is good. If you want really great great resoults, you should use 3rd parts IRs, but 90% of IRs I use are from free packs and sample packs, so its not a huge aditional cost. The interface is probably the simplest of all of them. I actually found it easier to navigate with the Helix joystick than to use the Headrush's touchscreen. Its just very well designed and intuitive. Coupled with touch sensitive switches, setting up presets becomes a breeze. Because of the knobs and the joystick, I actually find it easier to set things up on the unit itself than with the PC editor. And since we are on that subject, the editor is great as well, when you go a little bit more in depth with midi commands, external amp controls and snapshots. The updating software is a breeze as well, you basicly plug it in and its updated in about 3 minutes without any hassle. The floor model also has scribble strips above each switch, and I cant believe how usefull those things are, especially on stage. I honestly cant imagine being without them at this point anymore. Its also built like a tank, and has a really extensive IO at the back that has everything you would ever need. And with the ease of use, all the routing options and IO, it flexible as hell. I used it as a multifx unit with my amp, and it also handled all the switching on the amp at the same time, and I used it direct to mixer at other times. One time I had to adjust my direct patch to run into a fx return of an amp, and it took me less than 5 minutes to set everything up. Oh yeah, and IRs are really easy to load in and use. Its just drag and drop, and then you simply scroll trough them. 

I know this sounds like a praise for the Helix, and honestly, it is. I used to own a Kemper, and after I got the helix, i got rid of the kemper, since the sound is prety much at the same level, but its just sooooooo much easier to use. And to top it of, you can get a VST plugin version of the Helix called Helix Native. If you have an audio interface, you can download a 14 day free trial, and see for yourself how it sounds like. And the Helix native patches are interchangable with the actual unit, so you can just import those to the unit as well. And the interfaces are pretty much identical, so you also see exaclty how the workflow is. 

Tl;dr: Helix. 
You shouldnt put in a normally open switch. If you simply wire in a normally open switch before the output jack to simply cut the signal, you will get a lot of popping when using it. You should instead wire it so that it takes the hot output from the pickups and shorts it directly to ground. There should be tons of diagrams on how to do this correctly online. And when you wire it the propper way like this, you need a normally closed switch, so that it only shorts to ground when you press it. 
tmonn why do you use a TRS cable with a guitar? Normaly just a simple TS cable is used.
You can easily do drop C on a 25.5" scale, and drop A# is also not that hard after you find a string gauge that you like. Id consider a baritone only for tunings from B standard and lower.